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Is it just me or does every new car now seem to have been designed in Minecraft? I used to be able to identify a car in seconds from a flash of one corner or a small part, now...nope I have no idea everything looks the same.

whilst the L&K is a nice comfortable version, i would avoid getting the MY16 version. MY15 & MY16 were the "first version/batch" of mk3 Superb. MY17 saw improved electronics (various things), adding more features. MY18 onwards they introduced nice things such as digital cluster and the larger infotainment. MY19 saw the introduction of the 272 (GPF) and DQ381, in some markets. MY20 onwards the facelift version came out, sporting the troublesome MIB3 units, and cost cutting measure across various different things.

Summer wheels back on my Mk3 again. Brake discs and pads thickness checked. All good for front and rear axles. 🙂 Now just a deep clean of outside and inside before selling it. A MY2022 Kodiaq TDI200 4x4 L&K has arrived few days ago to replace my "old good" Mk3 Estate.

I think I've cracked it buddy. Bastards must have tried emptying the tank before it came to me. I thought it was generous giving me half a tank in it.

he'll be back ... I enrolled on an online course for shamanic remote capabilities and vodoo mongering, the focus on "online" is on developing skills to disrupt and prevent correct functioning of not approved models, including behavior such as the traitorous escape towards another area of briskoda. First lesson: alter coded signal to disable access to the vehicle. Bap beware! YarnPrepare yourself.Predator 2 clip with quote Prepare yourself. Yarn is the best search for video clips by quote. Find the exact moment in a TV show, movie, or music video you want to share. Easily move f... Stay tuned 😁

@leolito & @travs Thanks for your feedbacks. Don’t worry, I will still be lurking here. The Kodiaq Mk1 forum ´next door’ looks very calm compared to this one… 😁

I’m in a WhatsApp chat and someone posted the other day about a grey estate tuned one in Gainsborough for sale on FB if you want to add that to the options list. I can look into it if you’re interested. I don’t know anything about about it and the seller but you can do your digging on that if you wanted?

Had to stop off on the way home to snap a shot of the Bluebells...........

VAG doubled the service interval for the DQ381 7-speed Not exactly. The 7-speed DQ381 turned up about a year before the 2019 facelift, in line with the arrival of GPF. VAG have moved the goalposts on its servicing, I had one in a new 2019 Cupra and they were 40k at that point. By the time I bought my Superb in 2023, that had doubled and I'm not sure I would trust it.

I believe that VAG state that this procedure is no longer necessary due to the turbo being water-cooled and the fitting of the auxiliary coolant pump. Probably still not a bad idea to follow the old shutdown procedure for 30 secs or so following a WOT blast though.

After reading this and similar forums about my Octavia 4 (2022. 1.5TSI), and thanks to some enthusiasts here I decided to do deadening doors, trunk, hood, wheel arches, pillars... and speaker upgrade (Focal IS VW 165 front + rear). I will post some pictures after about this. I'm super satisfied with results, but now realizing even more possible improvements. Sound of front and rear speakers is completely different. Rears are - just bad, completely lacking power and low and high frequencies. This is especially not good at all if you want to install an DSP amplifier, you want to have "flat" outputs from head unit. After hours of searching I found some interesting web links related to described "problem". The possible solution is to "play" and edit sound settings of MIB unit (see attached links). In short: via diagnostics "extract" sound dataset from 5F Multimedia Control Unit (HEX code), edit hex code or import to Sound Settings Editor (Alex Strelets, MQB-BLOG), and write back to car. This was confirmed working with MIB1,2,3 units but I didn't find anyone that succeeded with MIB3 and Octavia IV (NX). I tried with OBDeleven (EEPROM) and Car Scanner Pro (DATASET DUMP) without success. Some posts on Facebook without answer: I hope that discussion can lead us to some solution.... Some useful links: https://mqb-blog.com/ https://github.com/NumberOneBot/mqb-mib-sound-datasets https://www-drive2-ru.translate.goog/l/634729646969064789/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp https://www-drive2-ru.translate.goog/l/611148421088161236/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsi80Yr3aoY&t=145s

yeah, not a hill i'm going to die on :) i don't actually need the profiles....but you know how it is when there's something you want to fiddlw with but can't. but its all good, thanks for the insight!

i just wipe from the centre to the left with my leg :) brought it out of the lockup. Helsinki tomorrow. Lots done today: Sorted the ignition live (used Fuse 34) and now my DSP works correctly. Also ordered another 4 channel amp (for front and rear midbass), current 4 channel will run just tweeters front and rear ordered the rear "work lights" (these: https://www.valostore.fi/fi/tuote/tyovalo_purelux_panther_alpha_30) for fitting under the bumper. Made some progress on the box in the rear box so I can have a Ctek indicator panel in the box (this: https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/accessories/car-accessories/indicator-panel-1-5m) switch for markers and the "work lights" will also go on there, along with LEDs for the space. Need to design some dividers so I can get the tow eye in there, along with a rope and other emergency stuff. Pi will also go in the box to provide services for my WLED install, maybe also other stuff, i have to work this one out. Lots happening.. i have a feeling I will be driving through a bunch of Europe in a few weeks, so stuff will need to be finished...

It seems to be a syphon tool that you bob up and down in "liquid" and it has a one way valve which the spring is part of. As the flow of liquid gets going through then it'll keep going until empty. Not the tool I'd be using to syphon petrol anyways.

Let's hope you get a good price for your Superb. If it was in the UK and the steering wheel was on the internationally recognised correct side of the car🤭, I'd definitely be interested.

It is high in my agenda, but I still got other things to sort out, but yes, a "personalized" map for the DSG I think it would make the driving experience much more pleasurable! There is a TVS dealer up Northeast towards the Black Sea, so will be certainly an option!

Have you trawled the workshop manual and YouTube? Never mind the wiring side of things, but knowing VAG I'd be suprised if the holder is a part you can change, or if it's a moulded part of the light? You wouldn't catch me fiddling around with the wiring on my car - I don't trust it not to do another dying battery episode, shi* itself and throw a gazillion codes.

The Haldex VAQ interval used to be 30k/3 years, however is now 20k/2 years. I believe it is the same for Haldex AWD. DSG wise, all of the gearboxes are 40k intervals, with the exception of the DQ200 (n/a) and DQ381, which is 80k. That said, I'm about to do mine at 39k. The haldex wants the fluid doing, and the gauze cleaned out. Some places do it, some don't. The DSG wants the fluid doing, and the filter replaced (Skoda usually don't do the filter, but you want it done). 2019 is the GPF year for all cars. You won't see any difference, unless you're planning on changing the exhaust system for more power (as @travs and I have found out). I've driven a GTI with the DQ250 and my vRS has the DQ381. I think the 381 is the vastly superior box, however I do agree with @nicknorman on the whole. Mine has a TCU tune so is a non issue now, however I did used to find (when accelerating very slowly up a hill) that it would shift into say, 3rd, at 1600rpm and then struggle to go anywhere. That's now fixed, however I can't say if the Superb is any better/worse. That said, it's a very minor issue and certainly nothing you'll really notice if someone doesn't point it out to you IMO. For the Superb I'd say the 381 is the better box - having that 7th ratio keeps it nice and quiet. You're at the top end of torque on the 250, so if you're thinking about tuning or anything like that, then the 381 is the box.

Oh thanks a lot, i was sure mine was the facelift version, i will try my luck there, thanks!

@rit Are you often going flat out on an Autobahn and then coming to a standstill? Even on a scorching summers day in the UK & if you pull off the motorway the turbo will be just fine when you turn the ignition off, or a car with stop /start turns it's self off.

I changed mine about 3 years ago. Like for like AGM to AGM never had it coded and have never had a problem. Yes the start stop doesn't work for a while after changing and the normal ABS and ESP lights but they go away after driving for 10 mins.

A bit of research shows that earlier 1.4tsi had chain, later ones (the EA211 engine) had a belt. But as said a visible belt is probably the accessory belt (water pump, alternator, aircon etc). So there may or may not be a belt inside the engine for the cam drive.

Visible belts are almost always auxiliary belts, not cambelts.

Haldex is officially 3 years, not 30k miles. No idea why, surely it would be dependant on mileage! The haldex gauze filter (on the pump inlet) is not serviced as standard by Skoda but gets clogged up with fibres from the clutch plates and looks horrendous, so I would want that to have been cleaned or be cleaned on arrival. The earlier cars had 6 speed DQ250, the later ones DQ381. The 6 speed is better to drive as it keeps the revs in the power band, whereas the 7 speed tends to change up earlier and is a bit reluctant to change down, you have to press the throttle quite a bit and then it suddenly hurtles off. All in the interest of official emissions no doubt. But the 7 speed does high 30s mpg on the motorway, whereas the 6 speed is low 30s or even high 20s due to revving faster in top gear. 7 speed is faster standing start partly due to more (closer) gears, but also a higher torque limit on the geabox. Officially it is about 0.5 seconds quicker 0-100kph which is quite a lot when you are in the 5 second zone.

Only the plan is good for a year, which is for the coding/adapations. You can still use it to diagnose faults/live data once the plan expires.

So the petrol pump suggests consumption or fuel quantity, the figures or lack of figures can show differently if the car is stationary or going slow, range will relate to previous 50km consumption, even VW can't predict the future (hence not getting away with dieselgate). Why you see 20 or 40, relating to fuel, I don't know. Build year doesn't really matter I was just trying to check if this is a 2011 car and not a typo, you can use the car's VIN to find the appropriate Owner's Manual. The only dealings I've had with a Citigo is a neighbour's where the battery was very low and needed recharging, using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for charger. He didn't follow my advice and get and use an appropriate charger maintainer later so later still he had to have the RAC and their expensive new battery delivery, fitting and battery 'coding' service, at least they fitted a large AGM battery knowing how little the car was used and how often it sat unused (like many cars particularly of this type). At first I thought the 40 and speedo needle being at about 40 it might be speed limiter as I know so little of these cars and their dash instrument displays. So I'm at a loss then and again now. Hopefully a Citigo owner, or other my knowledgeable person than me will be along with an answer for you.

So as a precaution, you’re advising should I end up with a 7-speed, to look at keeping the 40k intervals? Got it. I don’t see how it would upset the mechanics, so yeah, definitely taking that on board. Yeah definitely can take it on as consideration, do you wanna leave a link to it here or send over PMs? Thanks. Ha, should’ve said the car needs to blend in for us too as another of the reasons. And. To keep the trend of the previous family car, which was a sleeper also. A black A6 avant ‘09, model and engine designation debadged, in S Line spec and proper base model look. However, underneath the bonnet lay the 3.0 TFSI supercharged engine! And of course I had MRC ramp this up via a tune to 455ps and 550Nm which made things interesting. To gap Golf Rs and S3s routinely made shopping trips fun. More so when I would fib and say it’s just a “2.0 TDI”. The instant torque of the supercharger is gonna be missed. Thanks for the breakdown.

Moody Blues, yes they are okay, wife probably still worships them or their past output.

Ok. I'll tell my friend to send me the photo. I'll upload it here.

Will be a shame for the Superb forum to see you move to another model. Good to be staying in the fold though 👍

Have you spoken to TVS about this? Could be something they'd look at; in fact you might find a TCU remap would leave the Sport shift points alone. They're looking for optimum shift points, which may already be the case for the car in Sport and not need to be messed with...

I put the mic over the sun visor. The issue is the sound processing so the mic you showed won't change anything. When i got the unit i went with the 4gb one You are better off upgrading to mib2, it is what I ended doing

Well, certainly is not at its top condition, so expect a failure at some point. Since it is still cold where you are, maybe it can survive the summer, if we get one at all 😁 The locks... yes, it can be an electricity problem, certainly.

We have come from similar experiences, I have chosen a Superb for all these reasons plus cost and ease of maintenance and, living where I live, a lower profile which suits me in this phase of my life. There are loads information available, but without going too much in detail, engine wise there are not dramatic variations in performance and response, earlier 280s until the facelift had the valves in the exhaust, dropped afterwards. Later 280s have GPF which shoult not be so problematic as the Diesel's filter, ut this is to be yet experimented. You might have some trouble for tuning parts, and not always coding for parts match what you actually need, but this is not something it can be lived with. Biggest difference is as mentioned above the 6 vs 7 speed gear, but this is horses for courses, both have advantages and disadvantages. In any case I would drastically shorten the service intervals. The rest of the items you mention - water pump, DCC shocks - can be a problem regardless of the car spec or year.

Noooo 🤪 Just joking .... congrats on the new ride! Don't get lost! We still here! 😊

Great work and I like a lot your wayto describe work! I admire your tenacity, compliments! The "pin" thing should be part of the toolbox when the car is new, actually all my former Audi cars had one, and I got some every time I was going to the breakers, if I see 'em, it has been extremely valuable. It is plastic but holds up well, I broke only one in maybe 100 wheel swaps.... This item, together with the plastic "plier/clip" remover for the plastic caps of the wheel bolts, are really a treasure to have in the car at all times! I have seen how using normal pliers damages both the cap and worse, the rim!

Standard Without

Those figures are way off, around £50 to change mine at an independent garage including pump.

Washer pump has seized. remove the wheel arch liner, and give it a tap! The pump is £15, easy to change.

I had a similar problem and drained the reservoir then refilled it with hand hot water then bled it through after letting it stand for a few minutes. after I got it clear I was recommended VW own washer fluid and I had no further trouble. The problem apparently was "curds" (you tell me!)

As far as I know, 1985 is the latest version available.

It is recommended that after a long run, switch off auto/stop-start and keep the engine running for about a minute to help the turbo cool down and keep oil circulating. We had to do that with 80's and 90's cars to keep turbos from failing.

So conveniently: Spacers arrived, what a time to be alive! Pair of 3mm and I think it's 4 of the 5mm. Don't really care, after the correct size before committing to better ones, as these look a little too generic/universal. So back out, and gave the wheel bearing face a quick cleanup like the rears: Then coated the face with a thin layer of corrosion block grease, before lugging this thing on: Before this, got the retaining screw, gave it loads of copper grease and then blasted it through the hub with the impact wrench in and out to clean out the threads, before reapplying more copper grease and then using it to hold the brake disc on. Not bothering with torque until we're actually finished. So got the left side caliper out and dry fitted it with the old bolts for now: Ready for trying out whether the spacers are correct. Because the car's not Japanese, I can't just slap the wheel spacer onto the brake and then the wheel (until I git wheel bolts, of course), so had to use a couple of bolts and just...hold onto it: Then try and plonk onto the hub. Wheel wasn't going on, so at 3mm, was still fouling: So off with the wheel, and on with the 5mm: Sadly still fouls, and worse: Left a few scuffs whilst turning. Not the end of the world, but a bit annoying as they're freshly painted. I suppose If I was reckless, I could just get the wheel to scrape off what paint it needed to. So sod's law, it implies 6mm is probably the required spacer. With both spacers in place: It's fine. So I guess I'll try with a 6mm spacer, and I guess if I'm super unlucky and it needs to be 6.5mm or something, then I guess a 7mm! Taking a break from this for the day, I've plus gassed the brake union and hoses for both sides, hoping that'll make the process of undoing those easier, but don't want to sort out that final part until I've got the right spacers. Looking at the fronts, in order to change the wheel bearings, it looks like the driveshaft will need to be clear of the hub, as there's no way the top can be accessed from just looking at it. I'm hoping that means just the ball joint can be undone and that would be enough, but I'll need to mentally prepare for the possibility of the strut bolts being involved too, which'll mean new bolts... Maintenance: £2860.27 Upgrades: £4536.80 Miscellaneous: £820.07

I found the trick with the virtual pedal was to immediately step backwards as soon as you’d waved your foot underneath, I was told it was a safety feature to prevent being smacked in the face by the boot lid 😆

IIRC, there is an auxiliary coolant (not oil) pump to alleviate risk of excess heat transfer to oil on engine shutdown.

They are Elroq specific. I haven't fitted them yet, but there's 4 holes in each flap, 2 holes line up with existing screws in the wheel arch and 2 holes that need to be drilled. They look to be a good fit, but I need to invest in a new trolley jack as the car's too heavy for the one i have, and you need to take the wheels off ☹️.

Well, i did the installation. One hour for both sides.

Check your insurance you may have key cover on there, I just replaced a proximity key on a 21 plate Superb and it was almost £500 including programming from Skoda as no third party could do it.

Hello, I am expecting these dynamic turn lights today. The installation procedure is almost the same as the previous Octavia model. Please watch the video below Install Dynamic LED Lights for mirror - Octavia 3 - YouTube

Had new rear valance fitted from Maxton ...V2...love it