Leaderboard

Sunshine on Leith: Bit of a mist coming in, but t’was nice to see 😎 Gaz

Had a trip to Skomer Island (Pembrokeshire) last week. Still going through some 1500 photos, mostly puffins, some in flight like this one coming in to land...

A few recent photos (including the 99% full Moon)................

I commute by motorcycle. I also did that when I lived in London in the bad old days before the ULEZ and my snot was black. I have a decent bit of motorway to get to the city now. The trains can smash down parallel to that at 125mph. My bike can do that easily, but if I did that often I'd lose my licence pretty quick so I don't. End result: commute by train is about the same time as commuting by bike, but the bike is far cheaper and really convenient and makes me happy. wheeeeeeeee.

Loving the irony of a bunch of retired fellas discussing the best way to get to work. 😁

Hello all I've bought a second-hand Favorit from a friend, maybe it is already known on here: it's a 1995 Favorit with a VW 1.6 fuel-injected engine from a Polo GTI. It is great fun! But needs some work. My history with Favorits started in 1998 when I owned a 1989 Favorit (standard). I loved that car, even with its leaking roof. Recently I was very tempted by an ex-works Favorit rally car that was in Scotland and I did get as far as arranging a transporter to bring it to me in Warwickshire, however life got in the way and I never did buy it. Then this car came up and I thought it's probably my last chance to have a go in a souped-up Favorit, so I bought it (from Yoss, who I presume is on here). Drives really well, the full complement of squeaks and rattles are present. My first job is to try and balance the wheels which might be a bit out of balance, as I'm getting a vibration above about 65mph. Then I'll try and fettle the exhaust with some Felicia parts and DIY sections to make a half-decent exhaust system suitable for our MoT. In between I'll try and pimp the audio a little although that might be a bit pointless seeing as it's so noisy inside, and the lack of A/C means I'm generally driving around with the windows open. Also I need to find a fix for the broken interior fan rheostat - I'm assuming I can solder some resistors onto the existing unit, as I can't find replacement parts.

When still working I looked into commuting by bus instead of driving. The problem was that bus routes were all radial from the town centres so to get to work meant 3 buses taking nearly 2 hours (because of poor connections) and 3 bus fares. Driving took 20 minutes most days (more when there was an accident on the motorway) and fuel cost of less than 20%. But it was 4 hours per day instead of 40 minutes per day that was the deciding factor!

As a ex train driver I can tell you a lot of train drivers travel to/from work by car, simply because a lot of shifts involve starting before or finishing after the first/last train / bus has run.

I've had my 2024 2.0TSi 190 L&K a few weeks now but not had chance for a run out. This last week I've had some time off and we booked a week away on the east coast. So my last 2.0 Turbo petrol was a Subaru Impreza Series McRae and that struggled to get out of the teens mpg. I did once have a Mondeo (3.0V6) with similar performance to the Superb and that averaged mid 20's and wouldn't break 35mpg. But the last 15 years most of my cars have been diesel. So I decided this week to drive in normal mode and to drive as I would like. No economy mode and no driving specifically for economy. I get Lincoln is fairly flat and the A roads are 40/50/60 mph but even so I'm very pleased with the results. (I get the app and car mpg figure maybe slightly optimistic) My 80 mile drive home today I achieved over 50mpg. (Average speed affected by que to toll bridge) Over the 5 days I did 270miles and averaged over 45mpg with all days achieving over 40mpg. Looking at those figures the Superb 2.0TSi 190 offers very similar if not better economy than our 1.5TSi Karoq.

Forgot pics of the inside after last deep clean: Not too bad for a 7.5 y.o car with 137000km on the clock 🙂. (with 3 kids 😁).

And 3! 3rd consecutive clean MOT. So happy! Now, I can write the ad to sell my Mk3. 😃 By the way, the inspector praised its condition. It started with a "Uh... You do get it dirty from time to time, do you 😯?!" I then explained that it had just been deeply cleaned to sell it sale. He replied with a "It's really spotless," accompanied by a respectful approving pout. He continued with "One can see that it's very well maintained because seeing the inside of the rims are in such condition, it's rare 😦..." I admitted to him that I have a set of summer and winter wheels and that every time I swap them, I thoroughly clean the ones I take off before storing them. I've driven less than 50 km since I put the summer wheels back on. He concluded with, "If I could do cars in this condition more often, I'd be happy 🙂. I even hesitated to use the windshield washer, it hurt my heart to get it dirty..." 🤣 Even myself, when I saw the windshield washer, I was... 🫣 😂 Well, not a big deal in the end, because I drove home under a light rain and I expect, I have to give it a quick wash when a buyer wants to see it anyway. Of course, I wasn't unhappy that my efforts were recognized. 😎. Small downside: I've had a random message on the maneuver brake system for a few weeks. It only appears on cold starts. I'm gonna make a VCDS scan to see what it is, but I've already booked an appointment by my local dealer to get this sorted for sale.

Hello everyone, Just a quick update. After adjusting the carburettor and the distributor I've driven the car 200 Km. Just now I went to the petrol station and filled the car up with petrol. 19,58 L is how much the car consumed in those 200 Km. I would say that is a very good result. The car is consuming just as much as when it was new. Please note that my car has got 130000 ish Km on the clock. Ps, I know I am young (about to be 23 years old) but I have driven a few cars other than the favorit. So far I've driven a Citroen C4, BMW 316d, Volkswagen Golf 8, Daewoo Matiz. And by far the Skoda favorit is the best car that I've driven. I absolutely adore the car. I personally think non of the cars mentioned above can compete in the pure pleasure that is Skoda Favorit to drive. My Skoda Favorit is a 136 engine, from 07/1991, so probably one of the last Skodas to be made before Volkswagen bought Skoda. Cheers!

Where I live the answer is "where do you work wrt your home?"

Generally found motorcycling as the best way to commute in to big cities. Zooming through the traffic and seeing all those in their metal boxes. When the weather bad might take a car but even in light rain and even temperatures down to near zero the motorcycle could do the journeys in about half the time. Just looking at 3 wheeled motorcycles, quite some interesting machines in that class.

Typical dealer trick. Years ago I imported a new Saab 9.3. Lovely car. After a year and about 12,000 miles I took it for service at the local Saab dealer, and was told it needed new discs and pads. I looked at them and told the dealer not to try and cheat me. I never went back to that dealer. I had it serviced every year by an independent Saab specialist, and it did not need new front discs and pads until it had done nearly 70,000 miles.

On the skoda website you can find handbooks by vin number. https://www.skoda.co.uk/apps/manuals/Models I had to use trial and error around builds from 2010 to 2011 to find it because registration year can be the year after build. I cannot remember which one had that particular schematic now.

Right fixed it last night. I used the servo motors from the VW Golf Mk7 fuel cap release as i needed one of those as well, so ordered three. They are marginally different but fit and work. Cost was £5.63 each delivered from Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008075672052.html Interestingly i couldn't move the rod in and out by hand (I could on the old ones) and their default position is 'out' which results in the parcel shelf still working manually in case of a failure. Anyway, all fitted and worked straight away!

What i wonder about the UP! forum is, is there lots of posts about how very good and reliable they are. Surely by now if there are common issues they were covered in the past 14 years so many times.

Didn't you already make a "Goodbye Cruel World" type thread about quitting Brisky? By all means keep or stop posting as you see fit, but there's no need to be a drama-queen about it. Incidentally, I have to wonder just how much "bigger and better" your other forum is if you're back here moaning about Briskoda.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, they will likely ignore anything you tell them. Hopefully you haven't cleared the DTCs, see what they say. If they claim that no DTC had been recorded, show them a screen shot of fault recorded.

First time starting a project thread, bear with me... Heard about this Roomster not too far from me that might be heading for a scrapyard, and decided to try to acquire it. That went well and it came to my place this last weekend. Early 2012, 1.2 TSI, 5sp manual, 158k miles on the clock. This is it, just after being washed. Paintwork is far from pristine, but that's not something I care much about. I'd looked up the spec via the reg plate before seeing pics of the car, so there were one or two nice surprises when I first saw pics, then the car in real life. Factory build sheet suggested no roof rails, nor trailer hitch. Both were in fact fitted, presumably by supplying dealer since this was bought new by the previous owner. Trailer hitch is the detachable type, with 13 pin electrics connector and adaptor for 7-pin electrics. Super handy! Had to swap out the alternator to get it charging and driveable, battery was also factory original and not well at all following loss of charging. OSF tyre had nasty inner shoulder wear, without anything similar being apparent on the other side, so that needs some investigation promptly. Partner told me the high level brakelight is inop. Nearside mirror adjustment isn't happening. May well be a split outer CV boot on OS too, but hard to be sure as the whole engine is rather oily externally, and everything needs a good clean-up to see where any fluids are escaping from. Everything else seems to work, though the handbrake only slightly! Lots more to say, but for now: New battery fitted last night after the external clean. Interior needs a lot of cleaning up; hoping a local youth may be enticed into helping with that, possibly. Engine sounds rather nice and quiet after two seconds of mild rattle from cold-start. Seems to go just fine, but economy not great on journey home. Quite excited to bring it back to full health. 😁 I shall no doubt have many questions.

after trying to find a guide on how to get to the fuse box in the cabin, the one near the steering wheel, none showed pictures or offered a lot of detail. and seeing as you have to pull firmly on the storage compartment i'd thought id offer up some advise. follow the instructions on the owners manual titled "Accessing the fuses" and it says to remove the storage compartment. after completing step one you want to let the storage fall to its most open point. pull firmly and i found lifting the lid a couple of degrees helped. i have attached a few pics of the hinges with the lid open to show how they attach.

I see the water's a bit cloudy :)

The water at a local lake is so low the plughole is visible!

How often, I don’t know. I guess it depends on the driving conditions. On the petrol engine it takes 20-30 minutes to remove the plugs, add injector cleaner, rotate the engine and finally crank it without fuel pump fuze. You have to repeat it once or twice every 12 hours. At the end you need to remove the remaining injector cleaner with oil pump or turkey baster. It’s not a lot of work but it takes time. A weekend is enough.

TBH I don't think such a storage box is available in the UK for Mk4 Octavias; used to have one on my Mk2 some 12 years ago, was quite handy. Perhaps message the team at @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits (forum sponsors), they may be able to find a part number

Thanks for your suggestion.

That's really quite a lot of work to get them out of having to replace the engine. How often do you need to run the procedure?

You're welcome. Having reread your original enquiry, I note that you asked about "Autocruise retrofit" and said "The car came without the ordered cruise control". I looked at the 2024 UK Fabia catalogue https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/Skoda-Fabia-2024-UK.pdf and all Fabia models (except for SE Comfort) were said to have "Cruise control with speed limiter" as standard. However, there was an optional Assisted Drive Package option (not available for SE Comfort) with a quoted price of £530 and this provided "Predictive Adaptive Cruise Control" and "Adaptive Lane Assist". When Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) is fitted, there's a second steering-column stalk below the stalk that controls the standard cruise-control/speed-limiter functions and it may well be that retrofitting ACC is more complex than (say) adding 'ordinary' cruise-control to a Fabia that just has the speed-limiter' function. If, when you ordered your Fabia Colour Edition, the Assisted Drive Package was specified but not factory-fitted, I find it difficult to imagine how a 3rd-party system could be installed that would properly mimic Skoda's ACC. In the unlikely event that your car came without any cruise-control capability and (say) just a speed-limiter, it might be practicable to fit a 3rd-party cruise-control system, but there's every chance that this would not integrate properly with the car's electronics (as you've said happens in your case). If I had ordered a 2024 Fabia Colour Edition and specified it should have ACC but it arrived without it, I probably would have accepted this provided that the standard cruise-control was present. (Obviously I would have expected the appropriate price reduction and asked for a financial sweetener.) But I definitely would not have permitted a 3rd-party system 'bodge' to have been carried out. If the car came with no cruise-control, I would have rejected it.

That's a sign of an almost dead battery, you might have to get the battery replaced if it turns out to be bad. You should it able to start it with a jump pack on for now though.

These compressors have a fail-safe system built in, so that if they seize up the pulley becomes disconnected from the shaft.

I should have mentioned in my post above - AGM should be entered as 'Fleece' in VAG parlance.

That was why I never answered the question as it was obvious that was the case. Even during normal hours I expect many still prefer to drive even though like those working on the buses, I expect rail workers get free travel?

Location location location. There are Cities in Scotland and probably in the RoUK where there are Bus lanes and the travel is quicker by bus than by car into or out of a city. Then there is the issue of parking if no workplace parking or Free to Park, so another expense. Hence 'Park & Rides.' Park out of town free and travel in & out on Public Transport. ? How do bus drivers travel to work, or train drivers? Maybe some use Public Transport...

Service interval for VAG dual clutch gearboxes. Haldex is 3 years or 30k miles but many now recommend 2 years or 20k miles same as the VAQ diffs.

As far as I know, the antennas for all the smart gizmos are embedded into the rear glass. Did you replace the entire boot door? Might be worth pulling it off and just double checking everything is connected properly.

Only thing for me is a find the MIB3 is frustrating for playing music via USB. It's slow to build a library, forgets it randomly and never restarts where you left off. It can also jumble track order. I now only use Android Auto and play music off my phone or through Amazon Music.

Hello, the BEM code is not critical - just use any code available, or leave original as is. The only critical data to update the BCM is - Battery chemistry (AGM/EFB) Battery capacity (A/hrs) Alteration to last digit of existing battery serial number to flag that the battery has been replaced.

Today I’m being a tourist: Cloudy first thing, but coming out nice now. Obligatory car shot: Gaz

My approach to this is wait until they are too bad to cope with and then get them done professionally in a single colour.

When I got my 2017 facelift estate I was originally looking at the 1.6 ended up getting the 2.0 150hp, I do about 28k a year and I'm getting about 55-60mpg on a combination of motorway and main road driving. Personally I think the 2.0 is a better option not only is it more powerful it comes with a 6 speed manual and not the 5 speed in the 1.6 at least that's the case in Ireland.

The oil change now might point to a faulty oil pressure sensor. Are there any fault codes stored? Another simple point would be the battery either bad connection or low voltage/failing. My octavia did weird things when my battery was failing. Dash lit up like a christmas tree with loads of warnings. Alasdair

By the time I read the steps in Diggiboy's post the exploded diagram under davidj241's profile (from 2012) had disappeared so I thought I would add an image of the tailgate trim and add further steps to assist removal. I needed to replace the tailgate lock (damp had corroded and caused one of the microswitch contacts to snap resulting in no boot lights; torch not lighting up; no open boot indicator on MaxiDot; and alarm triggering when opening just the boot). Also had an intermittent rear wiper motor that needed replacing. Boot light issue https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/454434-boot-light-estate/ Rear wiper replacing https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/361350-rear-wiper-motor-removal-how-to/ Removing tailgate trim on Skoda Superb Mk2 LK Estate The tailgate is fixed by one screw in the centre of the rubber pull strap. That's it - after that it's all held by clips and you will need strong plastic trim tools to leverage the trim off. As I was unable to prise the trim off from the area around the wiper I too started at the lock end. And brute force finally got the trim off the wiper end. It was then that I noticed that the wiper end of the trim had lips on the corners of the folded back part that tucked into the plastic guides on the tailgate - left and right by the boot strops. This part of the trim should really have been prised off first as they lock the top in position with a post that goes into the tube on the plastic guides (see phots below) Thanks for the tip about aligning the clips to the butt end of their relevant mounting slots and the definite necessity of having an assistant with the use of a torch to check all clip locations were aligned to the slots - the trim went back on without a hassle.

In an earlier post I talked about how my xenon ballasts were toast because of water intrusion in my headlights. In the same post (which you can read here) I talked about how my AFS slave-modules were the first things to fail. Ever since I bought the vehicle I’ve had to watch the dash warning lamp and the Maxidot pop-up every time I drive the car. That changed today. I ordered two of the AFS-modules brand new from a Norwegian website called Lyshelten.no, and the product link you can find here. I made sure that everything, all text, on this part matched the original part, as I know even slight differences has caused unsolvable problems for a lot of people on the internet. Only difference was the manufacturing date. The parts finally arrived today, and I got around to doing the repair. During the xenon-ballast replacement the whole headlamp had to come out. It was borderline impossible to unscrew the ballast any other way. But after I had performed that job, I noticed there could be enough space to fit a screwdriver through the hole for the fog light. It required a lot of tinkering, but I eventually managed to unscrew two of the screws of both modules that was on the fog-light-side of the AFS-unit (keep in mind that the passenger side was the hardest due to the headlight washer motor and other stuff which got in the way). When those were unscrewed there was one screw on each left which was easy to get to from inside the engine compartment. Afterwards I could just push the module downward slightly and stick the new one in, on both sides. I screwed them in place, and next came the part that worried me the most. I had read lots of places that programming was needed. I put the fuses for the AFS slave-modules back in into the fusebox. I had removed them prior because they caused error messages ALL THE TIME. Afterwards I turned on the ignition and connected my OBDeleven. I went into the control unit 55 - headlight range. The 6 fault codes from before persisted but the two top ones had now turned green😁 (Which means communication was established) Keep in mind the «no signal/communication» errors were causing the other ones. Now only the coding was left. I went into the coding tab in OBDeleven and tried to recode the existing code for the master unit, hoping it would program the two slave units. It didn’t, and stated that the function could not be performed. This made me nervous. I tried going into the subsystems (the slave modules) and looking at the code from there, but it stated the code could not be read. I decided to turn the ignition off and back on again. To my surprise and delight, the warning lamp on the dash was now gone, and all the errors in the 55 module had disappeared. I was very happy and decided to perform an output test, and now surely, the swivel lights worked as well. Before this, the output test would just return «function cancelled, marginal conditions have not been met», but now it actually worked. Needless to say I’ve been driving around enjoying the view of a warning light-free dash. The lights do actually perform the «dance» when starting the engine now. One thing worth mentioning is that you should recalibrate the height of the headlight beams after this procedure. Information on that you can find here. This is called a basic setting. After reading through my struggles; if you still cannot get it to work, make sure you have performed these steps, as they seem crucial: Tried to brush of the connectors and made sure no connector pins are stuck in the headlight socket Bought NEW (very important) slave modules, as used ones to my understanding cannot be reprogrammed, and the coding in any used case has to be perfect in order for the master module to recognize the slave modules Tried to «program» the master module Cleared fault codes Turned ignition on and off I’m really proud of this achievement considering how sparse information was available online. My hope is that someone will have the need for what I learnt during this experience. Feel free to contact me for any help. Thank for your time, Hjalmar

Are there any new problems or upgrades or questions to be asked about the discontinued Citiigo that can not be found if anyone does a search or goes back through the pages and looks? Goes to the Citogo Guide or Projects even? Maybe if in the other sections people looked before expecting others to answer about the same old same old there would be less replicated threads and more tumbleweed blowing through.

I've never found any dealer to have capability, confidence, trust, value and rapport. I've always found indies to do a better job, even if it is not always cheaper.

I really do not understand why anyone takes a car to a dealer for a service unless it's free.

The master cylinder (23.8mm piston bore) is the same on the Polo MK6 with both 276x24mm and 312x25mm front brake discs, and the Scala with 276x24mm front brake discs. The reason for the master cylinder being the same for both front brake disc sizes might have something to do with the front brake calipers both having pistons that have the same 57mm diameter. By comparison, the 256x22mm front brake discs use front brake calipers with 54mm pistons and a master cylinder with a 22.2mm piston bore. On the Polo MK6, the 276x24mm front brake discs are normally matched to 230x9mm rear brake discs, whereas the 312x25mm front brake discs are normally matched to 272x10mm rear brake discs. Both the 230x9mm and 272x10mm rear brake discs normally use calipers with 38mm diameter pistons. Perhaps fit the 312x25mm front brake discs and see how you get on with the 230x9mm rear brake discs. If you don't normally carry much weight in the back over the rear axle you might be fine with the smaller rear brakes. Weight of Polo MK6 front brake discs 276x24mm 6.5kg 312x25mm 8.3kg (28% heavier than 276x24mm front brake discs) Weight of Polo MK6 rear brake discs 230x9mm 2.6kg 272x10mm 3.7kg (42% heavier than 230x9mm rear brake discs) Front brake pads for 276x24mm front brake discs Front brake pads for 312x25mm front brake discs Rear brake pads for 230x9mm rear brake discs Rear brake pads for 272x10mm rear brake discs

Sent me pm

I expect the following parts from the Audi A1 MK2 will fit, so you would have 312x25mm front brake discs. However, when you do these kinds of modifications there's always room for some unexpected problems especially if no one else has done this particular modification before. If you already have 276x24mm front brake discs instead of the smaller 256x22mm front brake discs you will already have "2Q0407621A Wheelhub with bearing" which you should be able to re-use. The parts are the same from the VW Polo MK6 GTI except for the "2Q0407621A Wheelhub with bearing" and the "2Q0615301J Brake disc 312X25" being different. If you use the VW Polo MK6 GTI version of these parts you will increase the front track by about 9mm. I suggest you use the Audi A1 parts which should keep the front track standard. 5G0615123C Brake caliper housing red left 5G0615124C Brake caliper housing red right 5G0615125 Brake carrier red left 5G0615126 Brake carrier red right 2Q0698151K Brake pads 2Q0615301J Brake disc 312x25mm https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A1/592/6/615/615040 2Q0407256L Wheel bearing housing 2Q0407621A Wheelhub with bearing https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A1/592/4/407/407010