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@chelon The Drive Mode selection covers Driving Dynamics, Steering, Drive, ACC and Air Conditioning. In 'Normal' mode, they are all set as Normal (no surprises there then!). In 'Individual' mode they can be tweaked; this is what I use and some rationale... Driving Dynamics: Sport. Even though my does not have the Dynamic Chassis Control option, I feel that the suspension is a little less bouncy of some poorly repaired local roads use regularly. Maybe this is my imagination, maybe it isn't! But somehow it feels that little bit better. Steering: Normal. The other option is 'Sport' which makes the steering a bit sharper and heavier - too much so for my liking for everyday driving. Drive: Normal. Other options are 'Sport' and 'Eco'. Sport has a sharper throttle response and disables the stop/start function. Eco has a slower throttle response and will invoke stop/start more readily. Neither suit me and my driving style. ACC: Eco. The Eco mode gives a smoother, less jerky, drive. If ACC slows the car due to traffic in front, once that clears it accelerates more gently in ECO than others. More comfortable in my view. Air Conditioning: ECO. Compared to Normal it reduces the output, most notably when stop/start is activated, so less load on the battery whilst the engine is not running. I usually leave the Clima in Auto mode along with this ECO selection. I set this up ages ago and I'm assuming the behaviours are the same following multiple s/w updates to Infotainment System and some other components, including the ECU. @pinkpanther correctly points out that car always starts in 'Normal' mode; I assume this is to do with WLTP certification. For example, if Sport mode were selected and remained selected for subsequent journeys the emissions and fuel consumption may be higher leading to complaints, blah blah blah. Lawyers covering their backsides I guess.

Pulled the trigger on the ID3, the numbers were too good to say no to right now. Bumped the mileage to 15k for another £15 a month as long as it's silver. Black is cheaper than silver on 12k. Have asked if we can get a red one anyway as it seems nust that the colour changes the value based on mileage but must be some residual value calculation going on

Morning commute today - and we're caught up.

We spotted what appears to be a Greylag & Canada Goose Hybrid 🤔 Who knew such a thing was possible!

Thanks Steve, like a lot of things on this car a subject in itself. I've not even tried to understand the air-con settings on the car yet (too many other things to try to learn about) but that's interesting re the ACC settings. In all seriousness, my initial impression is this is a car that's too clever for its' own good. There's just so many things that could go wrong compared to an "old" car. Computers don't often get stuff wrong but as we all know they do run slow/hang/need rebooted etc. As another example recently I couldnt get the handbrake to release no matter what I did...ended up getting out the car unlocking doors again and trying again and handbrake did release ok. A minor quibble yes but does not fill you with confidence re the cars' myriad systems just waiting to hang up when you're travelling at speed...

Without the ignition ON, the window raise/lower buttons and central lock button are disabled after about 10 minutes. Note that if, in normal use, if the door open light on the display is not working, it indicates a faulty microswitch in the door lock or a broken wire in the snake across the door hinge. In this circumstance, the door will relock after about a minute. Over 200 miles from home my wife dropped her key on a rear seat as she was closing a rear door. She had removed the key and it was in her hand. After the ten minutes or so doing other things the car was ready to activate all locks as soon as the rear door was closed. As she closed the door (and dropping the remote) the car now locked with the remote on the rear seat. A nearby garage (for free) brought along their kit to lever back the top of the rear door and insert a long rod. Using the rod, the man turned the key over and then pressed the open button. Voila! and lucky!

P.S. the reason why you have the DPF light on is because the fact that engine oil is getting into the DPF and blocking it up. Urgently suggest getting it to a local VAG specialist for attention.

Quick job today to clean up the leaking joint to the heater, and fix. Yeah right 4 hrs later an extra trip to @repconz - really helpful staff at New Plymouth branch as always. The pipe I got was a bit snug and took some cursing to get on but I got there and the rusty pipe is gone.

Seeing as this is now the extension lead thread I will add my 2p. I used to charge my Volvo PHEV using one for most of the 3 years I had it. But I did buy one that was designed to handle 13amps continuously and the charger was only 10amps. It was fine. I've got lots of those multiway extension lead things at home. Very useful. They are all rated at 13 amps and the cable is a pretty chunky thing but they don't often get heavy loads put through them. An electric iron occasionally perhaps but the main point of them is for multiple small load items and for that they do a very good job.

If your Skoda dealer is anything like ours then you'll be in that hire car for a few weeks - I found there seems to be a disconnect between the AA, Skoda Assist and most importantly, the dealer - who in my case was most put out that they had to take the car in. Much mutterings about the word of a AA patrol v their own workshop diagnostic.........

Nope, resoldering solves ONLY sound issues. For firmware upgrade: 1. format SD (best max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

As a RS owner, that's horrid. It looks like a cross between a Max Power wannabe, Veilside threw stuff at it and a GT3 racer..... From the width of the tyres, you would think a 700hp AWD monster.....

Probably your unit has a typical failure - dry joints in power amplifier section. It can be easily repaired by resoldering power amplifier chips. You can replace 5E0035020A with 5E0035020C but it's not plug&play - new unit must have component protection removed by Skoda dealer, must have FEC/SWaP codes assigned to your car reinstalled and finally must be parametrized (coding and adaptiaions) to match your car equipment options.

@pab567 might be able to advise.

150 km were good 🙂

Thanks I'd appreciate that. Hope it's good news.

Same symptoms as mine It's in at local vag garage Monday for cambelt change, I'll get a diagnosis on the clicking and report back

2.3 dry, 2.1 partially repaired and 1.9 normal refill.

Does your do it all the time, or only when moving? I can't help diagnose but am just working out if it's the same issue as mine. Mine does it only at slow speed and throughout the whole movement of steering travel. It does not do it if I 'dry steer' whilst stationary or once I'm moving above around 10-15 mph. I'm concerned it's the steering rack as I can't afford to replace that and am hoping it's not. I brought this car as I thought it was a good one, only 27k miles, never failed an MOT, good service history, pristine on the outside and inside etc but it's been a nightmare so far and it's really starting to cause me stress and worry! Went to get a new tyre and found one of the front wheels had been welded, went to change the rear discs and found whoever has previously owned it has totally rounded off the hangar mounting bolts and now this bloody click!

Same problem myself , is there a way to tell or any signs for definite it is the cv joint ?

Tell me one or other of them.

Need to know reg or VIN, in order to fully identify the gearbox, the oil that goes in it, and the drain/fill info.

You can but you will never get it to the manufacturers level. You're supposed to lock the selector and then remove 2 drain plugs on the bottom of the box.

You could try will they fit.com it gives you the circumference and other details.

The level is above the Allen plug, so you cannot get it correct by removing the plug. You refill through the reverse switch on top of the box.

The AA man believe they probably damaged the O-ring when they were building the car and it's most likely always been like it.

Yeah that’s nuts but there is a chance that something misses QC. As long as you get it sorted at no cost that’s the main thing 👍🏼

? Are Skoda / VW Group having a laugh or just a lost in translation with 'Check / Replenish'. ? Is that not Check & 'Top up' if applicable?

What prevents topping up if the level is a bit low ?

Well the running gear which this is part of tends to be common across the VW Group marques for car of the same "size" and age, which makes sense cost wise. I was just trying to encourage you into completing this task and seeing how the new rear brakes settle down after a couple of days use, before trying to get access to the cable adjusting point. I'm sure it will be a bit messy to get into, my wife's 2015 Polo also has an arm rest, but I've not looked into how to get to the handbrake cable adjuster simply because after replacing a single rear calliper, both rear discs and pads, everything is good. I'll try to remember not to bother handing you out any "half help" advice in the future.

Blimey - that's not good. The minimum mileage of distance to oil is 0.5l per 1000 kms so you are well under that. Assume you have the TDI180 engine; generally good engines. With that kind of oil usage, there has got to be a fairly catastrophic level of consumption going on. Check your EGR valve is not bypassing oil into the burn cycle. Also check that the turbo hasn't failed and is bypassing oil too. It's also a possibility that you have serious engine wear or the oil rings have stuck one of the cylinders. Check your coolant - if you have oil in there, it maybe the cylinder head gasket that has failed.

Only way to fix is by replacing the heater matrix. Its not a hard job, just a bit fidly. Whilst replacing the heater matrix its worth replacing the coolant reservoir with one without a silica bag in it.

Based on your first BRISKODA forum posting, this seems to be the 4th Fabia you've owned since 2013, including a 2022 SE L. I don't think you've said which model you now have, but as the air-con has 3 control knobs, I'm guessing it's a "Colour Edition" with the controls as shown here The Fabia SE L model's air-con's control will have involved the car's infotainment screen and is decidedly 'fiddly', but - if that car's air-con met your requirements for cool air and that's not the case with your present Fabia - as your Skoda dealership is prepared to investigate the issue further, it would be sensible for you take up their offer. I dislike my 2024 Fabia SE L's air-con (the system gets general criticism for its complexity) and it lacks the rapid reaction of my 2009 Roomster's simple 3-knob air-con when the temperature is altered from hot to cold and vice versa. But my Fabia's air-con will blow cold air when the temperature is turned right down and the controls are appropriately set. I doubt that the issue with your current 2024 Fabia relates to the cabin (pollen) filter, but it would still be worth checking the filter for cleanliness. Gaining access to the filter was detailed (by me) within this thread. This thread may also be worth reading

So clean, but Rusty has given me a job to do. Coolant is leaking from the heater feed hose. Should just be a case of draining the coolant, taking the awkward-to-reach pipe off, cleaning it all up and re-fitting.

Quite pleased with that! There was a bit of an incident with some gold spray paint being used in the garage! So power wash, snow foam, power wash, hand wash, power wash, clay bar x 3, then polish !!

0.5 mm cable: 1.7418 ohm over 20 meters. Same calculation as before: 20 meter cable using a 0.5 mm cable = less than 2 ohm resistance. 10 amp squared * 2 ohm = 200 w of heat to dissipate. A lot more heating power but still shouldn't be disastrous as long as cable has adequate airflow (eg. not covered). Me thinks this is another Graham's social media "engineering" and "ask before jumping in". 😉

Many thanks for the help. Found everything now. Keep up the good job!!

Any of the wheel sizes listed in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity) aren't a modification because they are approved by Skoda for that particular car. All front wheel drive Karoqs will have 215/60R16 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 listed in the car's CoC, because that is the only wheel specification listed for use with snow chains. If you couldn't use these 16" wheels, you wouldn't be able to use snow chains...and when it snowed you would have to leave the car on the drive and take the train.

U should try doing a "search" in this forum - u'll b surprised wat u find!!

@Graham Butcher You do realise it is the car that can be set to 10 amp max. & that i am pulling your wire. So. That is fine then as not cheap but is imported. Not bought from a DIY Shed though. Who do i go to in the UK to buy one Made in Britain & where do i have to purchase it from and can i use your name and ask for a discount? British craftsmanship, & British Standards for British Use and Britain will be a safer place and we will be healthier wealthier and wise. God only knows how we manage to survive as long as we do with Imported cheap crap. Bloody killers selling their junk direct to your home. I will have Ronan Keating in my head all night now. If tomorrow never comes.

Nice to meet you. Had quite a nice day wandering around Bridlington. Not towed yet but very impressed with your knowledge and service and the fitment.

My father in law came to the rescue with some nylock bolts. Finally managed to fit them. I noticed the brackets that bolted to the bonnet were quite sharp, so I added some adhesive felt to the back of them before I bolted them on.

Mine does this too, it sounds almost like it's coming from within the cabin and can't be heard any louder with the windows open than when closed. Almost sounds like a clicking relay behind the glovebox but only when the steering is turned. I'll check the CV joints.

I'm curious about the progress of your project. I hope you succeed. I couldn't and gave up.

Not a fan TBH... It looks like it's crashed through a Halfords or Ripspeed catalogue... Rather naff... the old Honda Civic was the same.

If you do a lot of night driving the FL is worth it for the Matrix LED alone.

I think you should get a job at VAG towers and show them how to do it. They obviously don't have a clue whereas you plainly know it all.

You know that the OS controls a lot of the car's functionality and features - it's far beyond simple infotainment. Doing an OTA update of that magnitude whilst the vehicle is in use would be... problematic. Also, you're assuming the unit has the spare space to fully download and store what would, essentially, be a second copy of the system files and data. Yes, it could be compressed, but then you need even more space because you need to be able to decompress it. Plus you invariably need temporary space during an installation routine. For an analogous example, an iPhone requires approx. 10GB of space to install a major iOS update that is usually no more than 2GB in size. That's 5x the amount to allow for all the jigging around and everything else it does during an update. Plus you can't use the phone whilst it is doing it...

You keep mentioning 'locking' in both your post which is perhaps where your getting confused. It's unlocking the vehicle and double unlocking with the remote key. Good news is that I've fixed the issue. The problem was caused due to a break in the brown/yellow signal wire between the button and the control unit J519. The actual break was within the left side rubber tubing between door and chassis. A new strip of wire, a bit of solder, some heat shrink tubing and all is good as new. Thanks for your advice nta16. I hope this helps someone in the future with similar issues.

Use castrol, VW dont make their own oils, they are made by another manufacturer so chances are it could even be Castrol, more than likely Comma or someone like that though. When replacing manual gear oil, drain from the botton, remove the fill plug and fill till it dribbles out the fill plug, no line or level, just fill. Seen as its physically not possibly to fill above the line unless really quick or having the car at a weird angle i dont know who or why someone would say that.