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Not every day you see one of these in Sovereign Harbour: Gaz

Hi and welcome to Brisky. this place is like the bmw forums except, like the cars, better in every conceivable way 🤣

😄 warm and sunny weather today,too warm to be tinkering with my Kamiq

The 11 kW cable and charging unit i am back to using is twice the length of the one that came with the MINI. When i have to use an extension cable when away from home i have one of the boxes with me, but the charger has always been long enough from the building or outside socket to the car. Gray cable one is the one from MINI / BMW. I had the Boxes and extension cables before a EV for using for the vacuum cleaner or the Green House fan heater that was used to pre heat vehicles, or keep ice free during the day / night.

All the talk of building extension cables and cross sections for your granny charger.... just buy a granny charger with a long enough cable in the first place. My granny charger has a 10m lead as I knew if I needed to use a 3-pin plug socket it was likely I couldn't get parked close up. The 10m cable is downstream of the control box, so that can usually be kept somewhere dry if being used. No 3-pin plug connections in the middle of a drive to get wet. I've never struggled to reach a socket the dozen times or so I've used it.

New information from @ixtra More info here: New maps MIB2-Standard v.2510 in www.ateca-forum.de https://www.ateca-forum.de/index.php?thread/1945-navi-ohne-plus-daten-und-update/&postID=306002#post306002

Engines get hot, stop overthinking it. If the temperature gauge is in the middle and stays there, alls good. Oil temp can also get up around 110c if towing or pressing on. this is also fine. The many computers on your car will soon tell you if there is an issue.

Not bad for 2lt TDI. They and I say the 1.9 was the peach of this era

Hi all. New to the Skoda family as I've been a BMW owner for the last 22 years. About to pick up my Octavia Vrs estate on Friday. Not a new one, but obviously new to me. Been on the BMW forums since owning one and hoping this will be the same format for advice and tips/tricks.

An update. I've been quite busy with other things but now I have the car running. The car had an engine change, I've done 2 Passats/Superbs previously, so nothing new, the other ones fired up straight away. Pretty much all but 3 of the error codes were spurious for one reason or another. I went from 24 to 23, then 14 to 13 and eventually down to three all related to fuel supply. Once I'd fitted the front bumper (which contains the ambient air sensor) I got no error codes, fuel was getting to the injectors but it still didn't fire. Lastly I coded the injectors and she fired up. All very strange as the last 2 fired up without the bumper/front panel fitted and without coding the injectors.

as standard 😉🙃

@Aspman @Lee Un-bloody believable. £6 a day compensation from when going live should have happened. EDIT, It was put as credit on my SKY account but is after i called being put into my bank account in 3-5 work days.

Mine opens well once you give it it a minor push, but it doesn't really feel much different to the OEM ones that were on my Superb. In terms of the original stay, its open slightly less than that, but no real access issues with it like that. I raised the missing bolts issue to Ali Express and they processed a refund for the full amount. 😆

Just to add I have a full size spare in mine, not a space saver. Size is 205/60 16 same as on my car. Aware the OP is asking about 18" wheels, but may help others reading this.

I'd love to see a VRS running in the British or World Touring Car Championships with a kit like that. I'd feel a bit of a **** driving to Sainsbury's in it though.

I think you need a usb a to lightning cable for an iphone

By the way: the first years of Εbay.cο.Uk here in GR many start buying items without paying attention to this, the first ''Oh No'' came from the guys which bought hadlights.

Well, just a quick update… back to main dealer… Chief area technician has had a drive, heard the knocking and after lots of poking, prodding and use of various ‘ŠKODA workshop equipment’… it all comes down to a loose NSF brake caliper slider! Loads of copper grease, tightening.. and for now, the noise has gone!! Let’s see 😁

I just set a time based schedule in the skoda app to start charging at 11:35pm and finish at 5:25am

Apologies... couldn't remember if it was 0.5l or 1litre. Anyhow OP car is still using waaayy to much oil. I've edited my previous posting.

Thank you for the welcome. I found you through seeking a help with CarPlay, but the post got rather complicated with updates, so I shall come back later when I have more head space 😆 - and I’ve removed the disc from the car 😬

Most of my trips are shorter. With some 10-15 mile trips for work. It looks like my oil Level is now correct so I will check every few weeks and see how it goes.

You must consider that Europe (vast majority) drive on the right hand side other than UK it means if you buy a RHD car it is generally a modified altered vehicle and there can be lots of changes needed to do this, some unexpected and some that aren't the best solution, cars are full of compromises, especially mass market(s) models. Japanese cars are RHD. 😁 Yeap you've seen examples in this thread alone about checking things and not trusting some bloke on the internet. The likes of Papez would most likely know about this, it might be possible or it might be that the cable lengths vary, or different fitting arrangements on the different cables making a simple cable swap not possible or practical. Those that build up project or modified vehicles may have made up their own mechanisms but often these people have more knowledge, skills and experience and sometimes with more access to materials, tools and machines and know similar others. Another thing I used to advice was unless you had to then not to start a or do a job when the shops wouldn't be open to supply more parts, materials, tools, etc.. but modern thinking is that Amazon or others will get it to you but my thoughts are at the shop you can check the items are correct and perhaps get the correct one or suitable alternative there and then (btw Amazon aren't always lowest price anyway).

Same price as I paid used in 2008. Looking at it like that, and with inflation it's a bargain.

Update – I got it working! I finally managed to get the maps working. I downloaded the vw package from here: Amundsen Mib2 Map Updates 2025/2026 - Audio, Electronics and Security - BRISKODA Extracted it using Winrar to my PC, then copied the maps folder to the root of the Skoda sd-card. I could’ve sworn I tried this exact method before – maybe I didn’t, or maybe the previous download was corrupted. Either way, this time it worked, and I’m not going to question it 😄 Appreciate all the replies and tips.

@varaderoguy The VW Group / Skoda figure for May use as much as is 0.5 litres / 1,000 km. That is 1 litres 1,242 miles. It is in Owners Manuals for a couple of decades now for engines petrol or diesel and from 44 kW up and 3,4,5,6,8 or 12 cylinder engines. Even that is too much oil use. & they say may use more in the first 5,000 km.

When I did the gearbox on my old pickup, I had the car on stands. You'll need to get under to pull the driveshafts out and undo all the bell housing bolts, so how far you want to lift it depends on your physique. Bear in mind it's a Skoda box, not a VW one, so the driveshaft has a spline that goes into the box and makes the oil seal, rather than bolting onto an output shaft. By necessity, I did mine on axle stands, and lifted the box out the top (it wasn't particularly heavy).

I remember in Youtube, Jaguar owners making complains that their car had interior parts from Ford trucks, Maserati from Chrysler etc.

No luck getting everything to work together so I have given up and just set the car to only charge during the octopus off peak hours. I had this response today from Skoda: Thank you for your feedback and for your continued patience. Following our technical investigation, we’ve identified that the use of certain third-party applications can generate a high volume of requests to our backend systems. This can lead to incorrect or delayed status updates within the MyŠkoda App. To ensure the stability and reliability of the app, we kindly ask customers to refrain from using third-party apps at this time—with the exception of Tronity, which has an officially supported integration with our systems. We understand the unique requirements of the UK market, particularly around smart charging and energy tariffs, and we want to assure you that we are actively working on solutions to better support these needs while maintaining optimal app performance. We truly appreciate your understanding and are committed to improving your experience.

Id say no, what do you mean jerking? The kangaroo effect? He won't of drained it properly, I think you're barking up the wrong tree.

I've done it before on other cars. At this point it's probably worth removing from the car. You can't drive it like it is anyway so make your life easier. It could be as simple as pressing back in but likely will need some sort of disassembly. Maybe look into a refurb kit (seals, etc). But then by the time you've done that you may as well just get a new caliper.

My point is that this is not the right assumption in case of Felicia. They did use safety systems and engines from VW, and Felicia had a similar design language to Polo.. but that's where similarity ends. So it's better to not rely on finding parts in the VW parts bucket. That's overall advice when dealing with Felicia repairs and service - it's no different from previous Skoda models (=it's becoming impossible to get actually good quality spare parts) Looking into catalogue, it seems that the maxgearnpart is for an LHD Felicia. RHD is a different part (6U2721335A/E/G)

The link has already been corrected by @ixtra. I have also tested it and it works on my MIB2! https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2510_EU_AS_202525.zip

Just checked and it's actually £620. £195 road tax and £425 Luxury car tax.

I build my own extension cables for EV charging. I use Arctic cable spec of either 2.5mm or 4mm thick cable if I can get hold at of reasonably priced. The thick cable runs as a good heat sink. Even so it is recommended to change 13a sockets every couple of years if being used regularly for EV charging. I plan to one mains socket to a Commando 16a socket and commando plug and socket but pushing a socket through letter box is another challenge. EU spec houses seem to have better specs than UK houses sadly.

^^^^ Agreeing ........ With my car, the advice was to read the manual before driving it for the first time. Have you seen the size of the blumin manual. Must be over a million words. I'd definitely be late for work, Lol. And how the heck am I supposed to remember even 1% of that information. I can remember how to start the engine but every time i try to alter the exterior lighting it tells me I can't, Lol. Some of the tech works well but there's too much 'tech stuff' for my liking but hey, others will disagree. I've only ever come across one car that stalled at the traffic lights and that was a VW Passat during a test drive many moons ago. Hasten to add for however much the seller tried to assure me that there was nothing wrong with the car and it hadn't done it before, I didn't buy it. @chelon Hope you get yours sorted.

As a RS owner, that's horrid. It looks like a cross between a Max Power wannabe, Veilside threw stuff at it and a GT3 racer..... From the width of the tyres, you would think a 700hp AWD monster.....

Thanks Steve, like a lot of things on this car a subject in itself. I've not even tried to understand the air-con settings on the car yet (too many other things to try to learn about) but that's interesting re the ACC settings. In all seriousness, my initial impression is this is a car that's too clever for its' own good. There's just so many things that could go wrong compared to an "old" car. Computers don't often get stuff wrong but as we all know they do run slow/hang/need rebooted etc. As another example recently I couldnt get the handbrake to release no matter what I did...ended up getting out the car unlocking doors again and trying again and handbrake did release ok. A minor quibble yes but does not fill you with confidence re the cars' myriad systems just waiting to hang up when you're travelling at speed...

Thank you for your reply. It is as I suspected. 😉👍

Pulled the trigger on the ID3, the numbers were too good to say no to right now. Bumped the mileage to 15k for another £15 a month as long as it's silver. Black is cheaper than silver on 12k. Have asked if we can get a red one anyway as it seems nust that the colour changes the value based on mileage but must be some residual value calculation going on

P.S. the reason why you have the DPF light on is because the fact that engine oil is getting into the DPF and blocking it up. Urgently suggest getting it to a local VAG specialist for attention.

Blimey - that's not good. The minimum mileage of distance to oil is 0.5l per 1000 kms so you are well under that. Assume you have the TDI180 engine; generally good engines. With that kind of oil usage, there has got to be a fairly catastrophic level of consumption going on. Check your EGR valve is not bypassing oil into the burn cycle. Also check that the turbo hasn't failed and is bypassing oil too. It's also a possibility that you have serious engine wear or the oil rings have stuck one of the cylinders. Check your coolant - if you have oil in there, it maybe the cylinder head gasket that has failed.

Totally agree with super717, you should try all options. For me , because of neck problems, the ride quality needed to be dealt with immediately. Also the state of the roads in our area is not good, so I decided to go straight to the nuclear option of changing the wheels. I have read on this forum that people have had success in changing away from the Bridgestones and playing with the tyre pressures. My dilemma was that I might "waste" money changing the tyres etc but not achieve the results we wanted. My wife has a Golf SV with 55 profile tyres and I have an Passat with 45 tyres. The ride in the Golf is much "kinder" (I know that's not scientific !!) That kind of guided me.

They had it in for 2 days as they were also fixing the squeaky wing mirror. I didn’t have any issues with the ACC stalk, so you could probably hold off until service time.

Here's mine - high mileage lava blue 2019 L&K FL from Lithuania.

Hi, The screen protector definitely worked and did good job of masking 90% of the marks. It gives it a slightly more matt finish, and is easier to clean with out further risk of scratching.

None of which eliminates any one or more of the wishbone bushes, lower ball joints, CV joints and differential as the issue. It does eliminate your Main Stealer as a source of any form of actual engineering competence though.

Thanks all for your replies. Some helpful info here. We are looking at going with octopus but not sure if our SMETs1 smart meter is compatible. It has been added to the DCC database but seems Octopus are particular about which brand of SMETS1 smart meter you have 🙄 Just waiting to hear back from them if ours will work - otherwise we'll have to look elsewhere … Thank you for the replies again