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Holly Molly. Went to the supermarket this afternoon. Car was acting up. Really rough idle, very jerky gear changes, car felt it was unhappy. Got to the supermarket and started sniffing as I got the strongest of burning smells. I lifted the bonnet and the smell was coming from the back of the engine. I then put two and two together and realised that the rough running and the burning smell was the TSI equivalent of a major regen and as I have a Euro6a car, it has a GPF in it. Car was doing a regen, but had finished by the time I got to our destination. Never smelt it go like this before but it might also have been the Lanolin under body spray I put under the car to protect it reacting with the heat in the GPF. Its not as obvious as a TDI with the fans running at high speeds, it just doesn't auto stop start. This posting is just in case anybody else experiences this issue.

🙂 thanks to all the members who were kind enough to reply to my question. turns out that warrior193 was on the right track with his "Warning at ---- mph notification in the Maxi MFD - that is a prompt for setting a max speed warning, which is accessed via settings in the infotainment system" As I didnt get any manuals with the car, I was quite unaware that it had so many user configurable options, fortunately my son was able to download them from the Skoda site. As somebody who passed his test 60 years ago in a mk1 Vauxhall Viva, you may understand why I'm not a particular fan of all the modern goodies that come packaged with today's cars. Having said that I do like the fabia and find it very easy to drive. I've taken note of the other replies re the battery condition and will have it looked at in case it could be the cause of some of the other random error messages. thanks again to you all 👍

The car does actually have the digi dash as well, thinking seriously about getting it, drives really well.

Just have in mind that roughly 10000 aircrafts fly everyday with digidashes and some of these A/C have more than 20 y.o. This technology appeared in the 80's... For sure digidashes in cars are not dual-channel ones as in aircrafts to improve reliability and safety, but I think one can easily say, that's now a proven technology. 🙂 The first digidashes appeared in Superb Mk3 in 2018 for instance. They have now cumulated enough lessons learnt thru all VAG models to improve their reliability, I guess ;).

My thought is modern cars in general are increasingly frustrating. Certainly have. The system in my latest Karoq is reasonably accurate, although seems limited in its ability to alter car settings - it can't control the HVAC system whereas this was possible in a Lexus GS300 I owned many years ago! In most scenarios I typically bypass the Skoda system (using the mic button on the steering wheel) and ask Google.

It seems that the MAF sensor was the root cause. I cleaned it with CRC MAF cleaner and I don't feel this jerking anymore. It is dry and warm weather, so remains to be seen if it works other conditions as well.

Hybrids & PHEV,s are very complicated and might be the worst of both worlds. VW Group can not even sort out pure ICE Vehicles and batteries let alone electrified ones before signing them and taking money for them. As for BEV,s and the very important part for many which is charging & various chargers, they really are messing up. Porsche surely must have this one all sorted these out before they sell them to customers. Arrive home, at work, at public chargers or anyplace and plug in and charging starts. Tap a card or whatever and no Phone Apps, or Mobile Reception / Wi-Fi required.

+ MQB2 Europe v1.10.60 to head post

It really didn't make much difference. I posted a couple of pics previously here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516544-dash-cam-fuse-orientation/#findComment-5787064

I recently part exchanged my manual 2023 1 5 TSi SE L (in the free blue) for a new 1.5 TSi DSG Sportline Edition (in Race blue). I've now covered 750 miles and have a few observations. The matrix headlights are truly exceptional and are probably the most impressive feature of the new car. The Auto-dip main beam works well and they are a revelation in darkness. To my ears the Columbus system sounds a little better than the Amundsen in the SE L, although I'm unsure of technical differences (speakers etc) beyond the frustration of loosing the physical knobs from the older unit. The screen is marginally bigger on the Columbus, but in practice it is a little more cumbersome in operation. I'm pleased to see I now have a full complement of auto-dimming mirrors (only the interior and drivers mirror are in a 2023 SE L). The DSG box is certainly a better match with the 1.5 TSi engine than the manual. It's a pleasure to finally be free of thoughts of stalling the car in traffic. It revs slightly lower at 70 MPH than the manual, although early indications are it is around 10% less fuel efficient than the manual. I'll reserve final judgement until I have filled it a few times though. The electric tailgate (and foot operation) is handy although not sure why it can only be opened, but not closed, from the drivers door? Concerns regarding leaks and reliability aside (I'm a former Yeti Panoramic roof victim!!) it is great to be back in a car with a large opening glass roof (which is under manufacturers warranty for 3 years!). Predictably the numerous driver 'aids' have proved a source of irritation. On occasion I turn them off, but more often than not tolerate the tugging at the wheel and numerous bings & bongs😬 I thought I would find the autonomous cruise control useful, but in practice find I actually prefer the simplicity of the 'dumb' cruise control in the older car. The Sportline front seats are (for me) less comfortable than the SE L seats and appear less 'premium'. I do miss the alcantara of the SE L seats. I lost Varioflex rear seats though am pleased to now have a proper parcel shelf, rather than a mesh roller blind. Pleased to see all interior lights are now LED, as are the front fog lights, although suspect this makes them less functional than Halogen in actual fog 😁 I miss the central storage box from the SE L. This has been a feature since Yeti days and added a useful storage area, so I can't for the life of me think why Skoda would have binned it? The roof-mounted storage box was lost as a consequence of sunroof controls. I had a front and rear Road Angel Dashcam fitted (hard wired) which has largely killed Dab reception. I understand this happens as a consequence of the Dashcam's permanently enabled Wi-Fi. Strangely the same brand Dashcam did not similarly impact either a previous Suzuki, or current FIAT🤔 The Internet Radio sounds considerably better than Dab (? higher bitrate), but in order to use it I have to manually connect to my phones hot-spot. The only alternative would be to purchase a data connection for the car, which I suspect I won't do. Not sure if there is a method of automating the cars connection to my phones Wi-Fi hot-spot? This car has 3 years of Infotainment online and connect services, whereas these expired after 1 year with the previous car. There is a new feature known as 'Traffication', which expires after 1 year. I can't see how this provides much additional functionality over Waze / Google maps, so more than likely won't renew. I had paid to extend remote access on the SE L (I thought it worthwhile as it provided the option to remotely lock and unlock the car - a previous KESSY equipped car locked my keys in which necessitated breaking a window!), although no refund was forthcoming from Skoda when I cancelled the remaining subscription. Swopping insurance from the old to new car brought a significant (15%) reduction in premium! I enquired why and was told as a consequence of the extra 'safety' features of the newer car🤷. The ice scraper is no longer translucent green and there is no longer a method of securing the rear seat belt buckles to stop them rattling when not in use. The tyre pressure sticker is no longer behind the fuel flap. Wireless AA and Apple Carplay work faultlessly, although my Galaxy S23 gets incredibly hot when running AA and wirelessly charging. I am definitely not a fan on the 19" alloys and low profile tyres. The tyres offer barely any protection to the rim and we've already kerbed a diamond cut alloy😳 After reading another thread on here I may opt to purchase 17" Skoda alloys and switch to all-season tyres at some point. This car comes with Dynamic Chassis Control. I tried all the options and find Comfort suits the car well, although frustratingly it defaults to Normal after each restart. Suspect this isn't an option I would have separately paid for - possibly more relevant to a more sporting vehicle with greater performance potential? 17" wheels, a higher profile tyre and DCC on Comfort would be a pleasant combination though👌 The virtual dash has a few more options than the simpler offering in the SE L, although in practice offers little additional functionality. I initially thought the full-screen Satnav display looked impressive, but in practice I'd rather see this on the central infotainment display and just have a simple direction arrow on the dash in front of me. This DSG Sportline Edition was 5% more costly to buy new than the manual SE L it replaced, which I guess may reflect the Karoq is soon to be replaced? All in all I probably should have bought a DSG equipped Karoq first time around!

Hey everyone, Just passed my driving test at the age of 39! Just purchased a Skoda Fabia Estate MK3 2015 and so far, couldn't be happier! Not bad for a first car IMO! Anyway just wanted to say HI and how much I appreciate the information given on this forum. It definitely came in handy when doing small repairs to my Wife's Octavia. Jules

Hi, my name is Damir. I am from Serbia. Owner of Skoda superb mk3 diesel 2.0, make year 2019, estate, DSG 4x4

another new member @lasausage is probably even closer in as West Cork as you can get in Ballyvourney, beside my old college roomate's neighbours 😉🤣 welcome to the irish brisky contingent @alex1978

Welcome to Briskoda @alex1978 👍 Some decent folks on here. There's one just up the M8 from you @mac11irl

I’ve just driven 360 miles in 25-32c temperatures and their performance appears to be unaffected. I think during these tests, tyres are driven to extremes. I remember when I was financially embarrassed a few years ago and bought a set of budget tyres - Accelera I think the were - and was then throttled as these were “appalling” and “ditchfinders”. They were just fine. You mean like driving on snow… or ice? 🙄

When I fitted my dashcam, I just picked an empty fuse socket that had an ignition switched supply. As it was unused, it only had one terminal, so I knew which way to fit the fuse tap.

I somehow managed to reply to the linked topic - whoops. In my Occy, I've used F48 - the lane change assist. It's just one to the right of the rear wiper. I don't have lane change in my car, so I simply put another 2A fuse in the piggyback slot, and then put it in. It's engine operated. I like it as if it blows, I won't mess with anything pre existing in the car. It's also nice as the direction of the tap then doesn't matter (useful when there's a big relay connector right below it, so the tap only fits in one way anyway). Here's a thread with a photo of my mirror housing, after 20 minutes with the Dremel - I'm a bit OCD and like everything being perfect https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532849-2019-mk-3-octavia-glove-box/#comment-5951130 Happy to send you over a photo of how I did things nice and neatly in the fuse box - I need to open it up to change the cabin filter and check the fuse tap anyway. I also covered the entire dash cam cable in cloth tape - I didn't do it in my last car, and with the airbag in the a-pillar, I figured it might be nice to avoid any vibration/friction.

Yes, it's the transmission oil filter housing with top broken off. Heaven knows why but quite frankly I'm just glad it's a straightforward fix. Oil and filter are freely available, this housing is dealer or specialist only but hopefully getting one on Monday 👍

Updated my Audi mib2. I renamed the stl.1vw file found the the Common folder to VW_STL_DB.sqlite Then updated using More Incredible Bash

The parcel shelf gap cover was known as a Luggage Cover, part DMK770005. Mine, (in 2010/2011), clipped (not Velcro'd) at the back onto the parcel self, with plastic arms to the fornt which clipped onto the outermost rear headrests (i.e. in 3, not 2, seater mode). Certainly a bit Heath Robinson, but necessary to cater for (some) of the many possibliiies of rear seat back positioning!

Unit 76

Just for information the back washwiper fuse I piggybacked onto had a 20amp rating which was higher that I expected. The Nexbase hardwire kit included two piggyback holders for use depending on the dimensions of the fuse you planned on tapping into (the octavia seemed to have both versions in use in the fuse box). As for the load draw of the nexbase itself, the piggyback kit from nexbase already had a 2amp fuse inserted, so that is all they draw which is 10% of the rear wiper fuse. Im sure there won't be any issues but I'll check using @langers2k advice. I might be more concerned about fuses blowing though if I had tapped into 5amp supply. The camera works fine though although I've postponed my plans to wire up the rear camera that came in the kit as it seem a faff to remove the rear boot panels and have to feed the wire down the concertina pipe connecting the boot lid to the cars body. Cheers

Ah well thats that idea no good as you replaced map sensor.Might be fuel related? Wonder if the fuel pump/wiring or relay is failing when getting warm and only providing enough for idle? The rate your going you will soon run out of things to check.

Well, I had another go at disconnecting the flat cable as suggested earlier in this post. I had both, the black and blue plugs connected and the radio was on (not sure if the ignition was also on). I then disconnected the flat cable shown in the picture of the earlier post and this time the screen stayed on. So, when I lock the car, the screen goes off. When I unlock the car and turn the ignition on, the screen also comes on. The On/Off button underneath the screen is now inactive and so is the volume slider. The volume can still be controlled from the steering wheel. Since I never really used these (now inactive) controls, I won't miss them. The car is now sitting in full sun on the drive and at this stage I'm quite confident that this is now finally the end of endless infotainment reboots and full volume radio when the car is locked. Many thanks @omeromeryigit for your suggestions!

I'm glad our car doesn't have this. I don't feel as if I've missed out on anything at all. Judging by most of the posts - and not just on this thread - maybe it should be called Predictive Adaptive Uncooperative Inattentive Contradictive and Obstructive Cruise Control. I spose I'm just an old fart who'd rather do the driving himself.

IAT sensor is co-packaged with the MAP sensor. It's the little black bit that sticks out the front. Most people think they're cleaning the MAP sensor when they're actually cleaning the temp sensor. Pressure sensing bit is deeper behind that. Ringed in yellow here:

Go to your local dealer, they’ll be many different part numbers for interior colours, fabric type Just go to the parts department

I don't watch Top Gear either. Though, I believe, it was scripted and not as spontaneous as people think. I have expertise is in electronics and software, so I know about voice activation and automotive systems.

Ok. Mission accomplished! Using the Kufatec loom (LHD) on a RHD Superb with some wiring extensions, the Cars Equipment LIN adapter (full version), and a 569 C clockspring, it all came together. The magic sauce was using a fuse wire tap in an unused Terminal 30 location. For me that was SC24 where the sunroof fuse goes (I don’t have a sunroof). The good thing about this is you don’t need to get behind the fuse panel, literally just need to find an empty slot with a positive terminal 30 socket wired, plug fuses into the tap and crimp in your positive wire from the heated steering wheel loom in. Lesson learned along the way was that not all 5Q0 953 569 C clocksprings will work. You need one with a SW version equal to or later than yours or the adaptation coding in 08 HVAC won’t work. Sadly sold it already, soz!

@AreBerg Yellow wire at pin 2 of connector for G42 goes to engine ECU pin 30 on 94-way connector. Brown wire from pin 1 of same connector goes to ECU pin 66 of 94-way.

Might be worth seeing if anyone has vcds to scan car. It should work on an 06 plate and it may ping up stored codes that your scanner has missed or at least hopefully point you in the general direction. Alasdair

Hi @Guil thanks, please let me know if that works

I had to have my Occy with the digi dash as I really hated how the gauges looked. Everything 2020 onwards (mine is a very late previous gen Octavia) doesn't have dials anyway. I personally just leave it as speedo and tacho, with oil temp/ACC in the middle, but RS mode is fun and the maps are cool to play with too. Absolutely zero issues in my ownership - can't really see any disadvantages over traditional gauges, and there's nothing mechanical to go wrong. The fuel gauge is crap, but that's the same in every car I've been in past 2015.

@ZJZ I look at them all, & then I take it all with a pinch of salt, i know where i drive, what i drive & how i drive and it is a case of what works for me & not someone else's ideas. 50 years of driving over the various winters and back to the days of fitting Winter Remoulds. The guy in the video reviews says he is in the UK and not much snow. That is because he is in the South and maybe does not cross the roads i do whatever the season, weather etc. The Winter roads just as the Summer, Spring, Autumn are cambered & in Winter maybe not treated but more often than not are as because if the Council do not clear snow then farmers make sure they are open near them. Driving frozen and snow covered horizontal lakes are not something i do.

Reflash done. The car feels transformed. Much keener throttle, more induction noise from lower down. For such a small output gain, this has been as transformative as to Stage 1

You do realize that was fake?

Thanks guys im going to default to a cover.

Wagner Tuning intercooler and boost pipes are in. Went to thephirm in Camberley. While I was a bit anxious about the admin as they seemed to be happy with a hell of a lot of work in a day (new discs and pads and braided brake hoses were booked in too but there was definitely no time for all that without another mechanic working on it) the work that was done was absolutely brilliant. Arrived at the end of the day to find the front still in bits so stuck around for a couple of hours and was an extra pair of hands and just chatting to the guy working on the car about all sorts. Turns out he had previously worked at Wheelbase where the car is regularly serviced so that was a nice link. Also had the front trim panel cut out so airflow was better into the car (although looks like I’ve taken a pic of the wrong side 🤦🏻‍♂️). But both sides are now completely open. Again, the guy wanted to do a proper job rather than drill some large holes so he got a saw out and cut it completely open. He was really finicky about doing everything absolutely right. Now to reflash to Stage 1+ RL quoted figures are 433bhp and 550NM of torque. I don’t have a rolling road session so will have to go with theirs (with a pinch of salt). Main thing for me is the better flow through the pipework and intercooler.

Well, I obviously exaggerate, but it took me longer than I’d like to admit. I just couldn’t work out how to clip two pieces together - quite simple once I realised. Superglue will work a treat, but I wouldn’t risk it either. If it comes off with the housing, maybe a dab of hot glue? Should hold it in place and be removable.

Did you pass close to the back of a continental coach? They have on the back

Good job, looks awesome! Can I have your old one? lol

Your screen is showing "charge immediately to 50%" so if you car is less than 50% when you plug it in, it will immediately charge. We dropped ours to 20% as we're not likely to go below that.

I would expect to see the dpf light coming on if it was related to failed regens and or blocked. the " joy" of egr failure is that it is slow, and intermittent to start. and just gets worse. keep an eye on it, and try to replicate the conditions that bring it on, will help diagnose it.

Personally, I think you're being conned with that offer of a swap. The cost of the centre caps and wheel bolt covers for all four wheels is about £50 or so... I'd wager each aero cover costs at least that, probably more. Keep the aero covers safe for when you want to sell the car.