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A few shots from Glencoe. Over run with tourists and campers. Might head back in the depths of winter..

If it is listed in the options on the invoice, then it is the dealer's job. I don't think there is anything you can do. If the dealer does not respond, I would suggest a call and an email to Skoda quarters in the Czech Republic. Don't late an idiotic (that's the word I am allowed to use here) dealer push you around!

I was passed a huge parking area with some very bright coloured cars and then realised it was new BYD,s and not just the small ones. Not able to stop. Looking forward to going back that way and stopping to get a closer look see at them. PS. European and Asian / far eastern car manufacturers have their factories in Europe, some in Hungary which is energy rich became Russia allows them to get the electricity and gas. No sanctions happening over that. Even VW group takes advantage of that special relationship that the EU likes to ignore.

Absolutely, I don't grasp how this causes so much confusion 🙄

The local skoda dealer is a waste of time and billed me £168 to tell me they couldn't find the fault and maybe I need another new battery. In some good news, ive had even logging running while driving and the error presented itself and was showing the front right wheel at 0mph while the rest were at 26mph. New sensor arrives Sunday so it get it swapped over, give the plug a squirt with contact and see how it goes.

All cars have a unique 17 character identity code – their Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. For Karoqs this is displayed at the bottom lefthand corner of the windscreen, on a sticker at the base of the middle body pillar, and stamped into the righthand suspension turret under the bonnet. It takes the form: TMB LJ7 NU 7J5 012345 and can be decoded as follows: The first 3 characters are TMB for Škoda cars. The 4th character tells you the chassis type: J = left-hand drive FWD, K = right-hand drive FWD, L = left-hand drive 4x4 and M = right-hand drive 4x4. The 5th character tells you the engine: E = 2.0 TSI 190PS, G = 1.6 TDI 115PS, J = 2.0 TDI 150PS, M = 2.0 TDI 190 PS, P = 1.0 TSI 115PS, R = 1.5 TSI 150PS. (Anyone know the code for the 2.0 TDI 115PS engine or Russian 1.6 MPI engines?) The 6th character tells you how many airbags the car has: 2 = 2 front airbags, 4 = 2 front and 2 side airbags, 5 = 2 fronts + 2 sides + 1 knee airbag, 6 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads, 7 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag, 8 = 2 front airbags + 4 sides + 2 heads, 9 = 2 front bags + 4 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag. The 7th and 8th character tell you the vehicle model: NU = the Karoq (2017 on). The 9th character is a check digit to validate the code. The 10th character tells you the car's model year: J = MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018, K = MY2019 (ie manufactured between summer 2018 and summer 2019, L = MY2020 (ie manufactured between summer 2019 and summer 2020, M = MY2021 (ie manufactured between summer 2020 and summer 2021. The 11th character tells you where your car was built: 0 to 4 = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia; 5 = Kvasiny, Czechia; 7 or 8 = Vrchlabi, Czechia; B = Solomonovo, Ukraine; H = Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; J = Osnabruck, Germany; K = Kaluga, Russia; N = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia. Then finally the 12th to 17th numbers are the unique production number for that production line and year. If anyone has a character in their VIN not listed above, please give me the details so I can update this guide. Thanks Chris

Try playing rainbow cars... A bit like car snooker but colours of the rainbow... It's more difficult than you would think and the orange and purple (pseudo indigo and violet) are buggers to find

Those EVs that it is looking like will not get the UK government grant are likely slashing their prices to compete. Leap motors have already done so (this happened in Germany at the start of the year when they withdrew their 7,500 Euro subsidies). Now a super bargain. Chinese brand’s new LEAP-GRANT scheme undercuts rivals and puts the £14,495 T03 at the top of the UK’s electric car value charts Leapmotor has fired the starting pistol on a UK electric car price war by launching its own discount scheme. The LEAP-GRANT cuts the price of its entire EV model range by up to £3,750, undercutting both the competition and the Government. Buyers can now order the Leapmotor T03 from £14,495, where it previously cost £15,995. That makes it the cheapest new five-door electric car on sale in the UK right now, undercutting the Dacia Spring by £500. Of course, that could change once the list of government EV grants is confirmed. What’s new? - Leapmotor has taken the unusual step of introducing a manufacturer-funded electric car grant ahead of the UK Government’s incoming scheme. Called the ‘LEAP-GRANT’, it offers immediate savings of up to £3,750 on its electric vehicle range and is available across all of its UK retailers from launch. The scheme reduces the price of the C10 family SUV by the full £3,750, while the smaller T03 city car gets £1,500 off its list price. On top of that, both cars are also being offered with 0% APR finance, making the monthly payments especially competitive for drivers switching from petrol or diesel. ParkersHas Leapmotor just killed the cheap petrol car?Leapmotor launches its own EV grant, slashing prices across its range. The T03 city car now starts at just £14,495 – the cheapest new five-door electric car on sale in the UK.

yes dental floss is good - thats what i used now you have mentioned it!

I have watched this guy before I even got the car to get some insider information! He does seem like the mad hatter but he does his content very well! When I went to the dealer to pick the car up, he looked bewildered by how much information I had armed myself with 😆. Thanks to the Mad Skoda Professor! Aka (CarSpyTV) I agree, learning starts now!

At a guess ACM = Air Conditioning Module, that I understand is the panel on the dashboard/centre consul where you adjust the temperatue etc.

Most things are well over engineered safety wise on a car but it's the small stuff that can cause big problems. If you are new to driving then you're probably more conscious in many ways of possible issues than those of us who took our test many decades back (last century, last millennium) and more rely on experience (well what we can remember) and what concerns us and what doesn't. Safety can be about not relying on the (excessive) safety "features" and driver "aids" and "assists" in modern day cars (and keeping off the infotainment/SatNav/phone). As a new driver just passed your test your driving education in a way really begins now. For the car, read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' for driver's maintenance and to save time, hassle and money on unnecessary trips to the Dealerships, garages, mechanics, auto-electricians and tyre places. The VW aren't the best, or the worst, and are a good place to start at (sometimes until you have more experience). If you read and refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more than many long term owners of the model. And the boys and girls giving info on Aunty Google and YT don't always do a good job of such or can be wrong (as we all can). Here's some kooky but very well explained and presented video that remind of some of what's in the Owner's Manual but also other tips, these relate specifically to the MK3 Fabia but others cover other subjects and models, all well explained and presented to learn from or remind, in my opinion. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH. (must remember to view today's video and wind him up)

@SteveTheElder ive never tried to send multiple destination so don’t know how it would manage that. As soon as the car start it pops up with the destination. Just gone out to the car and sent 2 destination only the 2nd one displayed. Then you do get the option to save to favourites, cancel or view route with the option to go.

We can count on the chargers that will be getting used for the ECO Rally are in full working order. At that time anyway.

@Lowepepsi2004 It just does as @SteveTheElder mentioned... you only get the usual Apple "send to" button showing: Tapping it just gets you this... ... which is completely useless functionality as I could just use Google/Apple Maps in the first place! 😄 I've sent my local dealer an e-mail. I got to know the tech leader there quite well when I had all my issues 2 years ago. I've asked if they'd be willing to send my questions to Skoda technical to see if there's something different with the "H" part number compared to "D" that either makes the functionality unavailable for a specific reason, or potentially an oversight on their part. I did receive an e-mail last year telling me Skoda Connect would be deactivated because my car lacked the relevant hardware, for it to then be revoked - so they have made mistakes in the past.

@nta16 I went for a Febi Bilstein part who specify it as an alternative to the oem part number rather just make of car so hopefully i should have no compatibility issues. I already have some contact cleaner to ensure the plug is thoroughly clean before reassembly and my multimeter to check voltage is consistent with a bit of wiggling on the cable. Hopefully it'll eliminate everything except what ever the sensor reads in the hub and the module which controls it. Both of these will be beyond my capabilities

Don't know either. But my Kodiaq mild hybrid does it too.

Because the tank is full of air....not coolant. The prongs probably detect coolant conductivity which the coolant is alot more conductive than air. Because the tank is full of air, air likely come out of the cooling system as the coolant circulation happens. When you open the cap, the pressure of the air is released to the atmosphere, so the coolant comes back into the tank. The air pressure in the tank had been holding it down in the engine and other pipes. Coolant tank now has coolant in it, so warning goes off. I'd say this is the issue. I'd keep topping it up as needed Question: Does the coolant tank show low in the morning when the car is cold? Next time you get home, have a look at the level, see if it comes up overnight as the air in the tank cools and contracts a bit.

Yes, I'll pop some photos of the bear up here soon, just needs to be cleaned a bit before then as the sellers plot was a dusty location so the car has dusting over it from the all the cars entering the business park he is located on plus all the grim it accumulated on the journey from High Wycombe, back RAF Fairford to pick up my son and then the drive back to Chelmsford. I have some errands and hospital appointments to do today, so hopefully the photos will be done sooner then later.

I made this guide for my wife after the windows and central locking stopped working. I hope others find it useful. Yeti-fuse-box-diagrams.pdf

There's not really any such thing. A photo of the fusebox by the original owner would be handy. Is there a specific question you're researching the answer to? Owners manual from the correct year is a starting point, but that tends to be generic, trying to cover all possible fitments and engines. The wiring diagrams (available via erWin Skoda for a small fee) can provide VIN-specific info (viewable and printable only) or the overall complete wiring diagrams covering all variants (in pdf form), out of which you can pick the pertinent info for any particular query. I tend to download and look at the pdf versions, so I'm not sure if the VIN-specific route actually gives you a full fuse layout for your given VIN, others may well know.

You don't understand the translation 100% correctly... I have no problem at all when it's deactivated. I spent days looking through the gateway's data sets to see if it can still be deactivated. I'm concerned about the incorrect information. The first post says it was tested on the vehicle and works. That's a false statement for a 2022 model year vehicle. Many people think it works and copy it, but then it doesn't work.

Correct, even with any of all "openings" left open. Well that is or was my findings covering a 2009 SEAT Ibiza, 2011 Audi S4 and 2015 VW Polo - and in VW Group land, I'd think that "one size fits all" in this respect.

Good job on the diagnosis 👍 Get some penetrating fluid onto the sensor now to give yourself the best chance of it coming out on Sunday!

Not all Yeti will have the same fuse patterns as one another, and not necessarily the same fuse values in any given position. Variations of fitted equipment and engine/gearbox etc. as well as changes over time mean that a single snapshot of one vehicle's fuses can't cover everyone's Yeti 100% accurately.

For Skoda Fabia Mk4 owners who like videos... Although there is currently no online video describing replacement of the cabin (pollen) filter of a Fabia Mk4, the replacement procedure for a VW Golf Mk7 is similar as shown here (LHD car). The front cover of a Fabia Mk4's filter-box has two retaining 'tabs' (not the Golf's three) and these can be unclipped by hand fairly easily without prising them with a screwdriver (as iI've seen suggested on other videos). It's perhaps worth mentioning too that, when moving the glove-box upwards from fully-down to its normal position (2:30 time in the video) a degree of brute force is unavoidable. This comparison test of cabin filters may also be of interest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwaK4ilTos8

AutocarChinese EVs are set to be excluded from UK's new Electric...Other EVs manufactured in Asian countries, such as in Korea or Japan, are also expected not to qualifyEuropean manufacturers are scared and in trouble. They asked for money. Now the UK tax payer are doing handouts. Does it mean Czech and German cars also wouldn't get the subsidies? S Korean: 414 gCO2 Czech: 414 gCO2 Germany: 344 gCO2 Our World in DataCarbon intensity of electricity generationCarbon intensity is measured in grams of carbon dioxide-equivalents emitted per kilowatt-hour of electricity generated.

You could also try thin cord, introduced at the top of the badge and pulled downwards with a slight sawing motion, --- it worked on the rear badge of my Yeti!

Thank you. That was really useful, although the screens are significantly different, mostly due to screen size. Still, I wish there was a written manual somewhere.

That was a 2021 Mk3. Just dropped the tape measure from the fixed part of the parcel shelf and dropped it down to the boot floor. The hatchback does have a large boot volume so should definitely suit bulky packages

Hi, You’re welcome. I can’t compare the Contis to the other two as they were on a very different car, however I was very pleased with the Contis on the Cupra once I adjusted to them being an all season tyre, rather than a high performance summer tyre. On the Arteon, the Goodyears were, in my opinion, better than the CC2, most noticeably in the dry with regards to grip, braking and they were also quieter. Not saying the CC2 were at all bad, they outperformed the Pirelli summer tyres in every aspect, especially on such an overweight, under-powered, under-braked, unbalanced car!

Yes, I totally understand 're services coming back in house and centrally, after years of being outsourced. That was my time to leave. Purchasing over pragmatism.

Yes, the range goes up because you're now travelling at a more or less constant speed, & so achieving a higher MPG than when you were sat in London traffic. The system can't see into the future, so can only provide an estimate based on the recent data it has.

If you have that warnings there should be several DTCs in lots of different control modules. I had a similar problem on my Octavia recently which turned out to be 1 ABS sensor fault. I have a Bluetooth OBD dongle ans the free version of car scanner for Android. This tool did not report any DTCs from the ABS module despite 7 other errors in different modules. To determine which ABS sensor might be at fault you can monitor the wheel speed. The one that stays at 0 or is different to the others is not good. There's more info here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533111-rear-wheel-speed-sensors-are-they-the-same/

Hi I was going to reply to suggest that it could still be a stone trapped on the inner side of the disc, but it looks like you have found it ! A CV joint just doesn't make that kind of scraping noise, unless maybe the boot had split and every last trace of lubricant had dropped out. Its much more common to get knocking or clonking noises with excess wear, especially under load and with steering lock applied.

The boot protector you have has clearly different shape toward the chassis strut/profile where the rear bench folds. Show the your picture and make a claim. It is different than the one from official Skoda photo.

@D402 The issue started a few days after the Mechtronic unit was replaced. From the video Danoid posted, it looks like I should have 12v on the sensor plug with the ignition on so I might get the multimeter out and give the wires a wiggle to see if I loose voltage. I dont have a Hex v2 cable to do any canbus diagnostics

Also should mention did the oil in the diff a while ago, genuine toyota oil that met the same spec as this thing. No chunks, but definitely wasnt fresh. So that was the mechanical bits sorted, Gave it a good clean up pre leaving. Very early ferry but atleast the tunnel was open this time. As with the heat last weekend, it was not terribly enjoyable. Car was extremely hot inside, shifter boot is torn and i reckon it was just pumping exhaust heat into the cabin. Mate went with me. Neither of us had ac, in black cars in 30°heat, but atleast he had tints. About 3 and a half hours over. We were early so stopped by the motorist for a while and squires. Nice spots both of them. Got to the track around 5 ish. Had paid for running saturday, but we went to a car show at the motorist saturday morning, and were otherwise out and about. Only actually got one (not good) run in. So clearly ill need to remedy that next time. Was very busy anyhow so probably for the best i was out of the way. Made it to the ferry sunday in good time Car drove well, had no problems in the heat aside from my comfort. Still got 37mpg for the whole trip so not terrible. Got a small haul of parts for the mx5. Including a coolant reroute kit. Washer bottle relocation, spoiler even. All will be put on in time. It is cleaning up to be a much nicer car than i'd thought, unfortunately, i intend on keeping it and messing with it a while longer. Also got a set of very nearly new ar1s for the monte, and got cetane booster and tyre softener stuff from a man at melbourne. So good weekend in all even if i only got the one run in. Cant recommend the place enough, i really like what they're doing, even if it is a bit of a journey to visit.

Fully charging the battery is a good idea and clearing the error codes as computers are extremely dumb and easily confused by their own messages (an error codes). It would probably pay to keep on the on the battery state of charge as the battery really has to be hammered to get to a state where it can't start the engine on modern cars. As you have seen well before that there should be warnings and lots of (unseen error codes). The battery has been weakened by this experience and if it's an original factory fitted battery it might have had its useful life shortened. You really need to know what caused the battery to be so low, was there a drain, a mistake made with leaving something on when the engine wasn't running, or is there a VWŠkoda fault with the car. See my first post here to possibly help avoid the same situation reoccurring too soon. Also consider preventative charging using a charger, best to get the battery to full even if it takes more than one session and going lower and slower will get more of the Henikein effect. Good luck, let us know if this returns.

Well for one, take out one or more wheel bolts and measure it, check to see if its been touching anything. (photo) Second, as I stated I have never come across a wheel bolt protruding so it hits the splashguard. To test the driveshaft CV joint, full lock & slowly drive forward. If you hear a steady clicking noise that could well be the joint. Tyr this again on the other lock. A good DIY tip, jack up car with both front wheels free. Full lock one side then the other. 1st gear at idle. Try & record it.

@JohnD123 If when fuelling you stop at the first click does the available range show the same as if you are going to brim it maybe putting in 7 more litres? Full / brimmed maybe 80-100 miles covered before the gauge, estimated range drops?

check out this (not very helpful) video on disassembling the recirc motor by me: https://youtu.be/7o2NmnoSGek long story short: there is a broken tooth on one of the cogs. i ended up getting a different motor from a scrap car.

Hey buddy, I've had the same noise in mine since I bought it 5yrs ago, but sounds more like a clanking, like metal hitting metal, on a slow turn. I've replaced everything (including the drive shaft) on the front end over the years but it still happens for time to time. My recent conclusion is that its the wheel nuts (they might be too long) hitting the splash guard as the wheel rotates. Let me know if you get to the bottom of it.

The only aspect I can pass on to check from experience on my Mk2 are the brake disc dust shields. These are prone to rot through and can create rattling and metallic grinding noises. Easy enough and cheap to replace. Have a look at them through the wheel and give them a prod and you will soon know if they are rotted out! My Mk2 is a 2014, 97k miles and I've recently had to replace all the suspension arms due to bush wear/corrosion. Rear springs have also been changed and I'm about to get the front springs done as one had just been picked up on MOT as broken. Largely down to the state of the roads as I am very much aware of avoiding potholes and slowing down for speed bumps etc. Once you have everything sorted a 4 wheel alignment would be a good idea. Cheers Dave

I've managed 28mpg average over the last 20k miles in my 2017 280 but last week I actually tried hard on a run from Cornwall to Gatwick and back in a day......42.9mpg....589 miles and computer still giving a range of 60 miles.

Some of you will know that I currently have a thread running over here detailing all the modifications and adventures Alana and I are having with our Skoda Yeti. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530881-scott-and-alanas-yeti-4x4-modifications-and-adventures/ A few weekends ago, we set out to service our Diesel Skoda Yeti 2.0L CR170 and took out the camera to show how we went about doing it 😀. I've split the main video (which you can find in the thread above) in smaller videos for each of the serviceable items which might be handy for you if you fancy servicing your own Yeti 😀. Changing The Air Filter: Changing The Cabin Filter: Changing The Diesel Filter: Changing The Oil And Oil Filter: Resetting The Service And Inspection Interval:

Playing with my new camera

Detailed below the current coding I have for Travel Assist: CU13/Long Coding/Capacitive Steering Wheel ENABLED CU13/Long Coding/Travel Assist ACTIVATED CU19/Adaptation/Specified Inst. of Sub-bus Users/Control Module for Steering Wheel Touch Recognition YES CU44/Long Coding/Lane Assistance ACTIVE CU5F/Adaptation/Vehicle Function List BAP/LDW_HCA_0x19_msg_bus DATABUS EXTENDED CUA5/Long Coding/HC Warn Intensity SETTING OVER MENU CUA5/Long Coding/Klr CODED CUA5/Long Coding/Hc Variante 1 CUA5/Long Coding/Point of Intervention EARLY Assumption to have it working: ACC + Capacitive Steering Wheel. The more I check, the more doubts I have about your steering wheel. It's true that you guys have button on your steering wheel, but check this exploited view: That's for a 2021 Kamiq, but I would bet a finger that it's also applicable for the Octavia. Maybe you have multifunction touch on the right side with Travel Assist button but with a standard steering wheel as a base, so even with proper coding, it would work but you will have the same experience as @Mattian.

Check if all below is done : Select Driver Assistance A5 - Select Long coding - Select KLR - Set to Coded - Select Point of intervention - Set to Early - Select HC Warn Intensity - Set to Setting_over_menu - Select HC variante - Set to Variante_2 - Select Adaptive cruise control 13 - Select Long coding - Select Capacitive_sterring_whell - Set to Installed - Select Travel Assist - Set to Activated - Select Gateway 19 - Select Adaptation - Select Specified installation of sub-bus users - Select Control module for sterring whell touch reconition - Set to Yes Last one needs sfd, I have skipped it an despite having same error U112500 it all works.

Finally, I found a capacitive steering wheel on eBay in a very good condition, so I went for it. Installation is quite easy, today I did the testing and and it's working fine. Just for the sake of clarity, it's true that control modules 13 and A5 are not SFD locked modules but security access code is needed. For both of them, security login code is 20103.