Leaderboard

Trust your instincts. You can easily check a car's MOT history online and after that you would expect a prospective buyer to come round for a look. If they live a long distance then you could do a video call with them to show the cars condition prior to them coming in person. And anyone offering the full price sight unseen would certainly throw up a red flag for me. 😬

I have no experience of the website you mention but in your position I would have done exactly the same as yourself, it could well be a scam so avoid no matter what they ask or offer. Some people suggest something such as https://motorway.co.uk/ or similar is a good place to sell your car, might be worth looking at this option.

And with some aplomb 🙄 With the use of my yuckygreaseometer and aspectratioviscometer, and using AI to measure the runs on your sidewall, it looks like it let go at 37.832mph. Time of death 0912am, 17 July 2025 😁 Gaz

Not sure if you mean both boots on that driveshaft or both outer boots? If the latter, offside one was one of the first jobs when it arrived here. Plan is to swap in a whole nearside driveshaft. Ordered one from ASM from a Roomy with only 55k on the clock for a very good price. May have to collect it on Monday to expedite things.

Speed Alert - there are I think 3 different alerts. 1st is Speed warning, the speed is configurable and the alert can be on or off and once set off will stay off. I have it On and set to 75mph in case I get carried away! 2nd Is from the Navigation speed limit sign display can be switched on or off, which is permanent. Then there is the warning “bong” which can be on or off but I think it might be linked to the volume of sat nav spoken directions but again this is permanent setting until changed. 3rd is the Traffic Sign Recognition which I do not have so I can’t comment on how that operates. DSG - there are many different DSG boxes produced by VAG. The 1.5 TSI would usually have the DQ200 dry clutch - this should be smooth going through the gears but can be jerky in certain conditions, usually when pulling away from a stop, compared to the wet clutch DSG boxes. Your Audi A3 may not have the same DSG box as your Karoq it will depend on engine torque output. Definitely go back to your dealer ask to drive another 1.5 DSG preferably a 25 plate demo car. If it drives smoother than yours then you can argue that the demo car defines the quality/standard of the DSG transmission and that yours is not of that standard, and thus should be fixed under warranty. Did you buy the car from a Skoda dealer?

Hi recently advertised my sons car on Facebook Marketplace (VW POLO on for £12k). Got a guy messaged me , usual opener "is this available". Wanted for a run around, asked about engine and body etc. Then requested a "PI report". At first I refused but said if he wanted to get a report I would knock the cost off the value of the car. He was quite insistent that I give him the report so I paid for an RAC HPI and sent it to him (no detail info on it like address, owner name, VIN no etc. but clearly shows MoT is current, and number of owners etc.) This wasn't good enough for him so I asked what he specifically wanted. He sent me a link to a website - alarm bells start ringing! Instead of clicking the link I searched and found what seems to be a legitimate website pulseinspect.com. I said I would generate the report and send it to him the next day - wanted to do a bit more research. However, he was getting very pushy telling me he wanted it now so he could review it. He was also using phrases like I will pay the full asking price. That was the final straw so I said car wasn't available any more, blocked him and took the ad down. My view is if it looks like a scam, quacks like a scam, then it is a scam! I'm trying to work out the mechanism of scammage and can only conclude that either the link he sent takes me to a fake website which steals my card details, the website that I found independently going by the same name is also fake, and/or he is after full details about the car including VIN number so the docs can be cloned for some kind of dodgy dealings. Do any of you lovely people have a view/ experience of something like this?

Very Mary Poppins :)

Spotted a couple of lovebirds this evening ❤️

The camera at the top is for Lane Assist. The thing beneath it is the ambient rain and light sensor, for automatic headlights and wipers. The thing beneath that is a vent for cooling - you'll see some long vents/slots on the curved part of the housing - same purpose. The sensor on the back of the mirror is for High Beam Assist. Here is a photo of my dash cam install. I routed it through the headliner along the top of the windscreen, into the back of the housing, around the Lane Assist camera and then out of a small hole I made with a Dremel in the (replaceable, £5) plastic housing. It's done perfectly so that as the driver, the camera is hidden behind the mirror. You won't be able to do this, as you can't put something in front of the HBA sensor. You will need to do what @Exkiwi suggests. You might have an issue with your sensor. You will be told to turn the lights on regardless, as the car likes being in auto mode. Regarding the final question, I suspect that the Lane Assist camera isn't a normal one. I'm not saying it's LIDAR or anything fancy like that, but my guess is that it is very high contrast and possibly even monochrome or another un-dashcam-ey colour (purple is designed to cut I/R, etc etc). If you think about it, it has to be able to see road markings and signs (TSR) clearly, in all times, conditions and weathers, whether you've cleaned your windscreen or not. In other words, the sensor in it is not useable for a dash cam. That's not to mention that ADAS systems need to be separate from other stuff.

The gift that keeps on giving... Was under it this afternoon changing the oil, not expecting to see this: Nearside outer CV boot decided to let go, thoroughly.

Always had a soft spot for these although not too sure about the colour 🤔

New post-cat sensor was delivered yesterday, and fitted just now. For the first time since purchase, this car is showing no fault codes in the engine ECU. 😁🥳

The DB5 was a still from my dashcam, so a bit grainy, but stunning in the flesh though! The Porsche was in a multistorey car park:

Well, I've had my 74 reg karoq (1.5 SE-L) for three weeks now. Still adapting, I appreciate, but there are two areas which I'm especially uncomfortable with and where advice would be welcome: I find the DSG gear change really jerky and laggy - quite a contrast with my partner's Audi A3 DSG which is incredibly smooth - I'd have thought the gear change experience would be similar. The lurch and gear change noise when I push the pedal down gently when going uphill is very noticeable in particular; The speed alert ding ding which I can't turn off permanently, or permently change the alert threshhold from 3 to 5 mph, is pretty tedious. For someone living in Wales where my main road has 16 changes in speed limit in a 5-6 miles stretch as we go in and out of 20mph zones it is especially annoying (and please don't have a go at me for "speeding" - I'm a trundler really - but these 20mph zones are, with one exception, on roads where there are no schools and few houses too, and just a tiny drift above 20mph and it's "ding-ding"). The alert often doesn't seem to recognise when I've left the 20mph zones either so scolds me inapppropriately. I don't mind the visual alert, but the noise is another issue. So - a good ride and driving position, but the gear shift experience and warning systems are a real turn off. Moreover, I understand that I can't do anything to fix the alerts permanently using an OBD device on 74 reg and later cars. Does anyone have any advice on the gear change thing? I guess the answer is to go to a local Skoda dealer and ask them to drive it and advise. The alerts I will have to live with or just keep turning off every trip I guess. Sorry if this seems like a bit of a whinge, but I confess to being a little disappointed at the moment!

I was thinking 1980s Coronation Street opening titles myself 😆 Great pic though PP 👍

The first thing I would think of is perhaps a bad or poor or intermittent electric or electronic connection, wire/cable, both live or earth side. Always first check is battery terminals and main earth connections, or even loose battery in it's housing - particularly if any recent work has been done to the car particularly if involving the battery or it's area or any earths or in the area of earths. Scan tools also need a solid power supply particular if they power from the car. The fact that these errors came with going over potholes might suggest something loose somewhere, all electric and electronic connections and wires want to be clean, secure and protected. One error in the computer systems can affect other even "unrelated" systems - as often found when the car battery is allowed to go too low in state of charge for the computer systems, the headlights might seem bright enough and engine very easily start but still be too low for the computers same can be for corroded, contaminated, loose connections and wires. Or perhaps something is rubbing against connections or wirers, or water perhaps getting in. You could also consider this and above for the computer modules. So many possibilities that you need to start at the basics and go on methodically.

I recommend Motorway, initial offer was £1700 more than WEBAC. Sold the next day. A courier picked it up 3 days later, inspected it, contacted the dealer, who paid before my car left the drive. The key is to be very honest about any scratches, faults, etc.

A later car, especially 2024/ 2025 is very much different as they built the cars to meet the new legislation. Even if the UK is no longer in the EU. Some stuff is just as they produced them.

Not 100% sure if the VRS is the same rad as my old MK2 TDI but I took the under tray off and the radiator drain was on the nearside bottom of the radiator I removed the expansion tank filler cap first and I did use a hose and flushed out as much old coolant as possable, just to add I did this with the engine cold, I used the correct fluid from VW as a friend who works for VW told me that the pump impeller will be damaged if you use normal coolant from an outlet like halfords unless it has the correct spec for VW engines the fluid i bought was expensive but never had a problem after renewing it, if I rember I think I used 3 litres and then just topped up with water but I did use distilled water much more pure no chemicals in it, checked strength after and it was well over 50% good for our winters

Hi and welcome to Briskoda. Having just switched from a manual 1.5 TSi SE L (which was pre-speed alert) to a new DSG 1.5 TSi Sportline I'm certainly with you on the tedious speed alert bongs 😬 My Carista is unable to even pair with the car, so for the time being at least I guess switching them off permanently is not an option😕 When I remember I use the steering wheel button to access both the speed alert and lane keeping menu and disable them. I've covered 2000 miles now with my first DSG and find it reasonably smooth, although a little 'clumsy' compared with a torque converter and not that responsive when first setting off.

pACC you can Turn alone off

I'm going to default to Karoq-ers/others I'm afraid, as I don't know enough about production, etc. To me, that is very clearly the transparent plastic you have on cars with HBA - not the black, ridged plastic insert on those without. It may well very well be that, on the Karoq, it made more financial sense to give all the cars the same mirror assembly, and not have a separate one. If you are sure you don't have any sort of HBA, and we're sure that is the sensor (I am 99% sure it is, and that is the only use for it - my Octavia doesn't have it and I have all of the ACC/ADAS stuff except HBA) then if it were me, I'd cover it with a bit of tape and see what happens for a few days. if nothing is affected, and it is 100% just for HBA that you don't have, then that's brilliant as you can put the dash cam there, out of sight! Cover it up, drive it/turn it on once in the day and once at night - the car isn't stupid, if it doesn't tell you it can't see from that sensor, then it doesn't use it.

@Ootohere - I have you permablocked and only even saw your nonsense because @sussamb quoted it. Since he did, reliance on Lane Enforce to keep you in lane reduces your ability to stay in lane and/or use deviation from lane as a signal that you need a break. @Seasider See above.

I have noticed that Lane Assist has made me aware of when I am straying towards the edge of my lane, so it is elpful in that respect and it odes sharpen your senses as regards avoiding this before Lane Assist needs to warn you. Maybe, too, we need to remember that it is not just about lane markings, it is about safe boundaries, e.g. getting too close to other "lane markers" such as banks and high verges.

324 is there if you're EU. If you're on 306 you need to go to 308 first (which is there) to go any higher. You can then go to 330 or 332 now. All work as I'm on them: MIBsolution MIB3 EU Skoda folder

The fuses should be in parallel, if the fuse tap has been fitted the right way round. It sounds like yours is the wrong way round. There is another thread about this running at the moment. Have a look further down the list. Are you using the lighter socket?

Absolutely spot on, what I've posted on various car sites before. Well done. Vast majority think engine oil and engine and transmission are the most important things when they're much lower down the priority. The old (British) MG slogan used to be "Safety Fast". I can't really moan about any safety features but a lot of the bottom-wiping stuff that goes on with modern cars does seem to encourage disengagement of the human brain and being more of a passive passenger behind the steering wheel. I'll put my usual for other possible fresh viewers, importance - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc. and clean reflective number plates) see and be seen. I don't want to downplay safety at all but don't get too paranoid and skittish about driving (you can leave that to the underdeveloped car computer systems and driver "aids" and "assists"). Decades back when I first bought a car and when about to sell I would spend two days cleaning and polishing it, wheels off, seats out, under wheel-arches, boot, engine bay "detailing" and as my cars were almost always outside cleaning and polishing them reasonably regularly and before any club events - now I clean the lights, exterior mirrors, numbers plates, rear window, other windows as required, and that's it other than perhaps a clean once or twice a year, modern paints hold up so much better now. In case you've not seen 12v battery is particularly important for less-trouble running, (very) occasional (or as required) preventative charging often best done with a suitable charger maintainer, following car and charger instructions, at a low 3-4-amp, slow rate, over more than one session if required, to battery full (not around 80% as car's BMS has it). You're well set, you could offer some help to others already (including those with decades more driving experience and longer model ownership than you, probably including me). Cheers.

Clearly the solution is to buy another Skoda. Skoda drivers are Happy Drivers!!

The speed alert how ever you can turn off or reduce the sound because still not required as law in the UK other than in Northern Ireland. I had a courtesy car Electric Mini last week and there are 20 mph roads and the car going Ooo Ooo Ooo. Finding how to switch off was not worth it. But any longer with the car I would have had to because coasting or or not on full regeneration it did 21 miles down the high street.

Chances are I would automatically look at the brake reservoir. My reasoning, a car that won't start or breaks down is annoying but a car that can't stop.......A situation I really don't want to find myself in. The thought of it is just disturbing.

Helo, I got reply from VCtools support about "stock" setting: " The “Stock” option attempts to find backups of your vehicle in the database and, if they contain a saved sound dataset, restores it from the selected backup. If no backup is found or the dataset is missing, it will load the standard default dataset for your vehicle (which may differ from the one originally installed). On the MQBevo platform, datasets cannot always be read, so their presence in a backup is not guaranteed. In any case, to restore any factory parameters, you can use the Stock Service — this service allows you to request factory datasets and calibrations for a specific vehicle directly from the VAG factory server. The service is paid and not included in any subscription. Please make sure to review the service terms before using it. "

It's possible that the glitches with the electronics and software in the Fabia 4 mc may be partly down to the car battery. I have therefore bought a Ctek CT5 Start Stop charger. We seldom do any long runs and from now on I'll charge the battery once per month to help maintain it. The car has a battery management system (BMS) so it's best if the negative Ctek lead doesn't go to the battery terminal. The Fabia mk 4 is easily upset so avoiding the negative battery terminal ensures it knows that the battery has been charged up. I decided to fit the included eyelet leads permanently under the bonnet. There's a large cylindrical nut in the engine compartment near to the fuse box and battery with a negative symbol on top. The negative lead eyelet is fitted there. With the positive lead I pushed up the black plastic flap over the battery terminal. Undoing the nut with a small mole wrench was hard work because it was very tight. I put the positive eyelet over the protruding screw thread and replaced the nut. That was the worst part because it was much harder to get the nut back on and tighten it up. I didn't need to disconnect the battery but was very careful not to short anything or drop the nut. You could use just the crocodile clip leads on each charging occasion if it's too much of a fiddle to fit the eyelet cables but remember to use an earthing point rather than the battery negative terminal. Push in the eyelets leads connector just fitted on to the charger's connector. Plug in the Ctek and as soon as you switch on the mains charging starts. The cable fitted to the charger itself is unlikely to be long enough to reach a mains socket. I've ordered a Ctek 2.5m extension cable to use in future. The battery charger checks automatically the type of 12v battery, selects the required mode and gets on with the job. After four hours the charger showed a green light meaning a full charge. This charger is very easy to install and use but it'll be a while before we find out if it helps with the glitches.

Had another look at the "foreign object" this morning & thought it looked like an air bubble. One very zoomed phone pic later & it's actually the sensor itself!

A possible reason for not using the front camera as a dashcam is that some European countries deem their use illegal.

@SiWaiting U’ve seen my input. All seems to be good for me on H56.

Has anyone with Lane Keep assist crashed or collided with anything yet with it giving a warning tug or twitch? @Paws4Thot have you been driving any of the more recent built cars and had any issues with Lane Keep Assist or noticed that because of it making you aware that you wander about in your lane?

An ex-Lagonda engineer who worked for me when we were at Lotus restored a white Mk1 which he would occasionally drive to work.

2016 is not a facelift, that didn't arrive until 2018.

Nobody's 'bogged down' with dull colours, customers just can't be arsed to demand something different. Back in 2011, MIL was after a new Fabia Scout to replace her green MK3 Golf Estate. Only colour she was interested in was Rally Green. She caused a right stink at the dealership with emails back and forth to Skoda HQ, the dealership and her going back to the dealership saying not good enough. She got her way and got what I believe is the first non vRS Fabia in a vRS colour. She was a persistent old lady but she grew up during a very different time in Germany and was 12 in 1945 and always stood her ground even as a child. That's a whole other story though.

Done it myself on the drive and got it recharged at the garage, horrible job especially for someone with limited experience. The dealer sells a little black plastic grid screen that attaches to the fins to help prevent this. 1K0820746

Have to say, I'm pretty impressed with the consumption on mine - 2.0TDi 193PS 4x4 - so far (a little over a month in). Even just pootling around locally I'm getting an MPG of low to mid 40s ; and I managed this last Sunday...

Have had similar problems in past. It doesn't take much so the bolt won't catch. Try some pressure on bolt and turn anticlockwise until you feel the threads click. This helps the threads line up ready to start and also helps stop cross threading then with same pressure turn bolt clockwise. Have in past used a slightly smaller diameter rod to line up first but careful not to damage threads. Alasdair

However.... Just had a breakthrough, finally. I was making some test leads from the cables of the original oxygen/lambda sensors, to enable easier double-checking and load testing of the loom wiring between sensor connectors and ECU. One in particular was very oily all over the outside of the wires, and after cutting and stripping with the intention of fitting some 4mm sockets to each wire, it was apparent that the copper within the insulation was also oily. I faintly remember reading once upon a long time ago that a reference level of oxygen is ported into the sensor down the gaps between conductor strands, sounds mad doesn't it? Anyway, that got me googling 'oil contamination of oxygen sensor connectors', and that got me to here: https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/assets/Uploads/Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf Doesn't mention oxygen movements but does clearly indicate that an oily set of connector contacts can be problematic. Luckily, I had a spare 6-way connector of the right flavour for the precat sensor, with a few inches of wire hanging out. Cut and shut that into the engine bay loom and hey presto, bugger me gently with a chainsaw, sensor 1 code gone and not returning. I was close to seeking professional help on this, for the car and my mental state. 🙂 Just need to find a 4-way connector for the post-cat sensor now. 🥳

DRAFT Hey Just had a chance to play around with coding a little bit through obdEleven. Most of the information was taken from the current topic. Thanks to everybody for sharing the information! My summary for now: item name instruction used to enable status comment turbocharger pressure Module 17 -> Adaptation -> Charging pressure ✅ torque (nM) Module 17 -> adaptation -> Engine torque ✅ power (kWt) Module 17 -> adaptation -> Engine power ✅ G-meter Module 17 -> adaptation -> G-meter ❌ Does not display anything in my case steering angle Module 17 -> long coding -> OFFROAD -> Display ❌ An icon appears, angle is displaying correctly, but the turn side is inverted refuel quantity Module 17 -> long coding -> Volume to be replenished -> yes ❌ An icon appears, but no data, just ---l oil temperature oneClick App ✅ DSG temperature Module 17 -> adaptation -> Transmission temperature ✅ vRS welcome screen (Module 17 -> long coding -> Start screen -> Version 3) ✅ vRS cockpit screen oneClick App ✅ 30 colors ambient light Module 09 -> adaptation -> hmi_ambient_colors_bitmask -> 7fffffff Module 09 -> adaptation -> hmi_contour_colors_bitmask -> 7fffffff ✅

Back on 4 wheels, New lift in, godsend. Mx5 took up more time and money than id thought but its in decent shape, justy is broken again but thats nothing new, so got more time to get on this. Subframe back on, driveshafts back on etc. Radpack built up with new rad. Snazzy stud and nut kit installed, and back on 4 wheels. Repaired some more wiring, again. And had it running, not for long but still. Bit long to crank, so further fettling needed. 20250608_212402.mp4 Also fitted an oil pressure sender, a spare from both mx5 and justy parts. Ran it to a gauge in the engine bay testing it out. Oil pressure is strong so good signs there. Will be routed to the 3 gauge thing in the din. Dont know if i mentioned but ive a serviceable set of underbody "cladding" and exhaust tunnel heatshielding from another parts car which will go on in time.

check this out.

Some of you will know that I currently have a thread running over here detailing all the modifications and adventures Alana and I are having with our Skoda Yeti. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530881-scott-and-alanas-yeti-4x4-modifications-and-adventures/ A few weekends ago, we set out to service our Diesel Skoda Yeti 2.0L CR170 and took out the camera to show how we went about doing it 😀. I've split the main video (which you can find in the thread above) in smaller videos for each of the serviceable items which might be handy for you if you fancy servicing your own Yeti 😀. Changing The Air Filter: Changing The Cabin Filter: Changing The Diesel Filter: Changing The Oil And Oil Filter: Resetting The Service And Inspection Interval:

Ok, i did it for the record, there are 4 clips on the underside of the vent, (actually the vent cap) that need pressure to come off.

Thanks for input. I have a query out to dealer also but they’re slow responding, as you can imagine, I need to know 100% before I land in France. I’m hoping someone will have experience with the issue.