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On a steep hill standard cruise control will not necessarily maintain a set speed as it relies on engine braking. On a motorway this is usually enough to keep a set speed as slopes are slacker but elsewhere on steeper inclines the car can go faster than the set speed. Believe me... I've tested it on a number of hills here. Active CC is very different and relies on radar distancing. It can also apply brakes and doesn't just rely on engine braking.

Exactly. Cruise control will not maintain set speed going downhill under certain circumstances, that's why I switch my DSG to manual and select a more appropriate gear. Even that doesn't always stop the speed increasing.

It becomes clear when you realise how most modern trip computers work. They are designed to expect a reasonable amount of fuel to reset/recalculate post refuel - 6 liters won't have been enough. Equally neither was 12litres, because that's not what happened - it will have seen 2 separate fill events. It's clever enough to know that, but not quite clever enough to be able to reset on such a small amount of fuel. 12 litres in one hit probably would have done it.

Wireless (and expensive) on some cars but VW group vehicles mainly use the ABS exciter built into the hubs..........

No, it clearly says in the handbook that the Cruise that is fitted my not maintain the set speed on downhills. It is not hill decent control and therefore has no ability to apply the brakes.

I too would be wary of scams, a potential buyer asking a few questions for clarity before travelling is reasonable. But his actions don't seem right to me, so ignoring him as a buyer sounds like you did right thing. I recently sold a car through motorway, worked well, they sent someone to collect few days later, got offer £250 below their initial estimate, but was still £800 more than best px offer (and £1800 more than another offer). However when they came weren't happy that it had the original tyres on, 7 years old, as said would need to put new ones on to resell it, wanted to take about £270 off, but as they were in the photographs we agreed to meet in between as wasn't worth sending them away as still about £650 better than best alternative offer. For the record I checked the buyers website afterwards, went on their forecourt couple of days later, they sold it about 2 weeks later making about £2300 if they got full asking price.

Yes indeed they do, sadly. I'd have thought it might be possible to set the trigger level for speed alert dings permanently to 5 rather 3mph above the limit - that would have been fine for me. But alas, that too resets at every restart. It is frustrating. I shall have to wait for the OBDeleven lot to "crack" the code of 74 reg and later cars so that the alerts can be tweaked or turned off. I may be waiting some time.....

+1 for getting in-channel window deflectors. They blend in, and doesn't effect the window operating. I've been using Heko ones for almost 8 yrs now on my Superb.

This^ If you treat it as an estimation device, you’ll be in better stead. My Octavia is similar.

seam sealered all over my stupid welds. Added a powered feed for the stereo remote but i need to find a location to stick all my miscellaneous earths, there must be something obvious on the firewall I'm missing. I got the second headlight modified for the servo motor, but i really need to find connectors for the 6Y0 941 295 servos. The pins are NOT happy to be soldered to. I can't figure what connector type it is, nor can i find any loom cutoffs to fit, I'll ask chatgpt when I'm at work tomorrow and see if it can find anything for me. I drilled out the snapped thread for the wing/bumper bracket and welded in a new bolt from the back so that will be able to bolt up securely now. I ran a control cable for the headlight servos but still need to figure out where I'm going to take power for the servos from in the engine bay. Last thing I started it up just because, and it came to life instantly and beautifully first crank. Everything's getting cloooosssseeeerrrrrr.

:-( I did try standard Windows 11 decompression tools, it didn't work for me, but as I am a Linux sysadmin, I went back to Linux to look and see what was wrong with the file. Personally, I think they should be using a SHA1 hash to check the file integrity and publishing the sha1 hash so people can check for themselves.

I really do sympathise. The very thought of having to "code" a new car to remove things you really don't want or need is shocking. My only way around this is to keep my 3 year old 2022 SEL DSG Karoq which I made sure had no such driver "aids". A brief trip with my daughter in a hire Hybrid Toyota Corolla was enough. She apologised as she had not yet found out how to tame the frequent intrusive and distracting bongs and warning signs..... Obviously we are no longer trusted to drive.

So, first of all, apologies for this thread, when such a similar one was already on progress. I hadn't imagined anyone else was having the same problem as me! My issue wasn't as clearcut as it would have seemed. Looking at the other thread, I did have the piggy back the wrong way round (I pulled out the original fuse to check). But... neither of the fuses had blown and my issue was that the piggyback had become loose. I do remember now that the connection wasn't very tight. I have now reversed the connection and it seems to fit in a bit better. If I get anymore problems then I'll find a way of strengthening the connection.

Hello all, I mailed @MartinB about this issue of corrupt downloads of the latest Columbus 2025/2026 maps (i.e. had he had any joy in using the files from the CDN from Škoda). I tried downloading multiple times, but each time the file showed me as corrupt on both the unzip tools in Linux and also in Windows. No joy. Turns out that those standard unzip tools only looked at the header files and determined that the header information was corrupt and then stopped working. Using my Linux (7z x) 7z decompression tool, I determined that the zip file itself was fine; it was just the header file information was corrupt. I managed to decompress the compressed file and move it onto an SD card and then update the maps as per usual.

That's not my experience on numerous cars including two Skodas. My dumb cruise control pretty much matches the set speed. The only time it struggles is going downhill just like it does if you were trying to control your speed manually, either by braking or changing gear.

Try a different browser. This was Firefox. Some people use custom downloaders that may regulate / buffer the download or not.

So I had a play about with the centre caps. The actuall overlays just fell off in my hands but the caps themselves all good! It's just a case of buying some resin overlays rather than replacing the whole lot! My overlay measurements are 56mm but didn't want to faff too much with getting inner measurements (felt like I was heading out of my depth). The caps without overlays look pretty good by themselves so might not bother any more with them.

I saw this on the "not for publication" spec sheet when I placed my pre-release order here in Australia. Having seen the video you linked prior to ordering, I was very happy with this esp as so many chargers are 150kw so wouldn't have taken advantage of the 175 anyway. Plus, as the video states, it is better for the battery longevity and provides a shorter charging time for charges that aren't 10-80% (eg a 30-60% top up).

Thanks @daveo138 and sorry for the late reply. I'll have a look at the other thread now and also check how the fuse in connected. I thought there was only one way to fit them, so that might be the problem in itself. I'll update when I have more info.

Sounds like 🐃💩 to just knock you down again. I've heard good and bad about Motorway and every time I read something like this it makes me wary of using them. If you were a prospective buyer of one of their cars and said "Those tyres are 7 years old and need replacing" I'm sure you'd get a different story from them. 🤔

I think that you are getting a little confused here, the first Superb I had with cruise control would keep the set speed going up or down hill as well as on the level , what it would not do is react to slower vehicles in front, thus requiring me to either overtake them or to alter the set speed of the car. Later models came with adaptive cruise control that would slow the car to match the speed of slower ones in front unless I overtook them when once again my car would maintain the set speed regardless of it I was going up or down a hill. Hill descent control is something very different and is designed for use on very steep hills in particular if you are off roading in an off road vehicle like Kodiaq 4x4, Land Rover, Range Rover, Jeep etc and will get you safely to the bottom of the hill with each wheel being independently braked to maintain a safe slow speed and keep the car safe. There are loads of videos on YouTube that show and explain how descent hill control works and it is completely different to cruise control.

£800k more! - you did rather well there...................(that's £800,000)

Ok, I've decided your posts are not worth any more of my time. Blocked.

I assume you're talking about the shock absorbers. A year ago my car passed the MOT but the certificate noted there was some misting from one front shock absorber. I asked the dealer who service the car about this and he said said I might need to havee the fronts replaced in a year's time - i.e. about now. I commented about this on this forum last year and several people here reassured me that misting is fairly normal and not a sign they are about to fail. It turned out to be good advice, as I've just had my car MOT'd (by a local independent test centre, not as previously through the dealer) and they said the misting was still minimal and nothing to worry about and the shock absorbers could last for a good few years yet. The dealer last year had also further noted that the rear brakes seemed to be wearing and I should be prepared for their replacement soon (but MOT hadn't commented on this). Again people here said that this was unlikely and sure enough, the recent MOT testers said that the brakes front and back were nowhere near worn enough for the need to be replaced. Some slight scoring on the discs but nothing to worry about. They said that in their experience many dealers of all carf makes like to replace brakes well before this becomes necessary. Out of interest, the recent MOT testers said the engine emissions were extremely low, below the limit by a factor of 10 or 100. I wish I'd paid more attention and taken in which emissions they were referring to. Car is a 1.0 DSG 6 years old done almost 39,000 miles. So came away from the test centre in a good mood.

Even the basic audio has speakers in the front and the rear so try using the output options to direct the output entirely to the rear. If the issue is still present then it may be the amplifier output playing up. If the issue is addressed then probably front right wiring or speaker.

Thanks to the anonomous reply. Started the engine then held down the power button on the infotainment system to turn it off. Went for a 20 minute drive. Then hit the info on/off button again = result was full function restored. Super!

Spotted a couple of lovebirds this evening ❤️

You can certainly turn off all the driver aids in the 2025 car but they come right back on again at the next restart

Hi, It was done on my car together with 94EW. Several controller were not accepted the upate and the car kind of died during the software update, and it took 8 workdays to get back in live. It was done remotely by a Skoda engineer from the factory after the locals were failed. Most of the faults are fixed. The car feels even more precise and balanced now. (E.g. lane assist doesn't jerk the steering wheel like a idiot, it stays calmly on the midle of the road)... I do not know is there any connection, but now the seat adjustment having a 3-5s delayed recaction and the seat ventillation even weaker now.

Not 100% sure if the VRS is the same rad as my old MK2 TDI but I took the under tray off and the radiator drain was on the nearside bottom of the radiator I removed the expansion tank filler cap first and I did use a hose and flushed out as much old coolant as possable, just to add I did this with the engine cold, I used the correct fluid from VW as a friend who works for VW told me that the pump impeller will be damaged if you use normal coolant from an outlet like halfords unless it has the correct spec for VW engines the fluid i bought was expensive but never had a problem after renewing it, if I rember I think I used 3 litres and then just topped up with water but I did use distilled water much more pure no chemicals in it, checked strength after and it was well over 50% good for our winters

This caught me out a few times too although I then realised it reports the last known status of the car until the app has connected (car reports online) and updates the cars current status

20mm of rain, can't get it in a garage. Welp. Got the central locking wired in at least. Might put some shelves up in the garage tomorrow. twiddles thumbs wishing more car work could get done. Oh went to the motor factors to see about wheel liners and lower control arms, but they can't get liners and the control arms are a bit spendy.... Ordered two front liners from ebay, lets see if THEY turn up. I shouldn't buy new control arms till the MOT man says I have to :P

I really wouldn't worry. Yes, LED headlights are expensive to replace, but your car is a 2024. Many other things will blow up before the headlights (or tail lights) decide to go.

Trust your instincts. You can easily check a car's MOT history online and after that you would expect a prospective buyer to come round for a look. If they live a long distance then you could do a video call with them to show the cars condition prior to them coming in person. And anyone offering the full price sight unseen would certainly throw up a red flag for me. 😬

Hi @leolito Judging by your mileage your car is newer than 2018. If that's the case you should use G12evo coolant which is actually newer generation compared to G13. AFAIK G12evo is backwards compatible so you can use it in cars older than 2018. Unfortunately I don't know if using G13 in post-2018 car would do any harm or not.

120,000 km Service done for Gandalf! This time round, the Major Service also included the DSG Service and Brake Fluid flush. Also had the front suspension lower control arm bushings re-greased.

Just try a Racingline dealer. My previous 2 diesels did in excess of 100k miles each with their maps on. Trouble free.. They are very reliable and the service has been spot on so far. And if it’s the 2016 onwards 190hp engine then the map they sell and show on their site was done as development on my superb 4x4. Twas rapid

Not quite so warm today, around the insufferable middle of the day, I got the last of the welding I think we need done on the passenger rail. Started working on the stuff to mount the wings. Looks like the studs on the drivers side are ok, and one on the passenger side, but the other is snapped. That will need something rigging to allow bolting up the bracket for the wing and bumper. Remembered that the head unit has a microphone so I clipped that into the headliner behind the mirror and ran the wire down the inside of the A pillar and ran it to behind the stereo. Did a test phone call and it seems fine. I got the handbrake interlock attached, so my settings menus and video modes are locked out for driving. Responsible, me. Also got the reverse wire connected so it goes into camera mode when I slam it in reverse. I found the wipers, so they can go on at some point. Boring progress, it's all just minor crap like this till MOT I guess.

There is a thread somewhere on here - I got mine from a UK supplier on eBay and watched a really good step by step guide on YouTube (I think for the identical VW version). I also needed a small set of small (torx?) screwdrivers for the diddy screws that secure the metal casing. If you are methodical, it's easy - Just doing things in order and not losing the screws ! The only mistake I made was that I un slotted the SD Card holder at some point and hadn't pushed it all the way down into its slot so I had to take the Bolero out again. Screen has been perfect ever since.

New tyres for Gandalf today - set no.3 in its 8 yr life. Set #1 - Factory Pirelli P7 Cinturato (235/40R19) - 52k kms Set #2 - Continental MaxContact6 (245/40R19) - 51k Set #3 - Continental MaxContact7 (245/40R19) While I was at it, I put actual jack pads in place of the plastic covers.

Worth mentioning that with ordinary Cruise Control the cat can exceed the set speed on downhills.

No problem! I am here to help, if I can 🙂 You mentioned that your doors are crackling also? Mine did this.. I also used Krytox (Siliconespray is also possible) and sprayed it into the gap above the chrome trim.. now it is silent.. For the crackling window switch module I used some litte felt pads.. 1mm thick.. 11mm size.. and its also quiet now. On the picture you see the spots I have put them.. .

So.. here is my final result to make the roof console quiet.. i fixed the white harness clip with butyl to the metal and sprayed Krytox to the little clips of the mounting panel.. On the console itself I used some felt tape on different spots like the hooks of the sanglass box and sprayed Krytox to some critical areas.. To me its 99% silent now.. Some pictures.. and videos..

So I try to explain.. I start at the side of the sunglass box.. I go in with my hand and pull down, so the console "seperates". I marked it with number 1 on the picture.. So now there is a space and I can see the two black hooks.. number 2 I push them with a removal tool and the side will go down.. 3rd step are the black hooks on the side.. push them with a removal tool and it will come of.. The metal clips are not really holding the console.. its the 4 black hooks you have to release.. thats the trick..

The storage box on top of the Dashboard. Has been a feature since Yeti days. Was present on my 2023 SE L but deleted on the 2025 Sportline Edition 😬

Only in use during manufacture I believe.

@Berisford By ABS exciter I presume you mean ABS exciter ring which is part of the Wheel rotation speed sensor mechanism? I don't understand how that could measure tyre pressure (TPMS), especially when a tyre pressure warning can activate even when the vehicle is stationary or hasn't moved at all?

I'll just keep trying - maybe get lucky eventually

If that happens then you don't actually have a working cruise control. That is the entire point of it, to maintain a set speed.

No, not asking because of the TPMS. Although a (partially) deflated tyre would also change rolling circumference and wheel revolutions per second compared to the other wheels, I believe the TPMS compares tyre pressures directly from a wireless thingy attached to the back of the tyre valve inside the tyre. I am more interested in how much variation in rim+tyre (ie. wheel circumference) variation between wheels on a car running straight on a level road can be tolerated by the ABS/ESP system before it indicates a fault. For example, a 225/55 R18 wheel/tyre would have a theoretical rolling circumference of 2214mm and a 235/40 R19 would have a circumference of 2107mm. The first wheel/tyre would therefore be spinning about 5% less to cover the same distance as the second. If one of these was fitted to one (or two) of the wheel positions, the wheel speed sensor would detect this. At what point (at what percentage difference) front-back or side to side would the ECU dislike this and throw a fault? This affects what alternative wheel/tyre combinations I might be able to use on the car (quite apart from brake & wheel arch considerations).