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Well digitizer fitted and unit is working! Cant vouch for the locking up as it was intermittent before. Ill try it next week in anger but first impressions are good. I used the “broken fixed” video suggested and the Ebay screen linked by Steve jd I hadn’t appreciated or realised you had to go down to T6 Torx so a quick trip to Screwfix afforded me a 5/6/7/8/9 set for six quid. I hastened to Prezafabs warning about making sure the sd card readers were seated. Fiddlyest thing was getting the thin aluminium screen surround off as once I loosened off one side , the opposite side popped back in Total time from in situ to re installed 90 mins.

@Warrior193 It was another reason I chose the 4 amp. Was going to go for the 10 amp then read about charging at lower levels is possibly better for this type of battery. (as others have also mentioned). I think my battery is fine but thought get the 4 amp just in case it needs a slightly faster / higher charge rate what with the heated seats etc, for on the occasion that I give it a charge. And the digital display. I would always try to ensure the battery is fully charged if / when near freezing temperatures are expected. I may keep the 2 amp IF they give me a good discount on it. Still I get quite annoyed when people cannot get simple tasks right. Pointless though, I know. As @EnterName says, I am quite hard on myself too.

KAROQ in GREECE

No issues here either but I dont believe the DRL's give off an error message but the fogs do if I remember correctly.

enyaq is on and I can secluded times with my wallbox charger so set to go off at 2pm

Five hours of 20% plunge prices from 1100 to 1600 today with Octopus Electroverse and maybe other networks. One could charge up at the cheaper rate, drive say 250 miles and then charge up again in the cheaper period. Hopefully this is something that is going to become more common, should do when there is cheap, zero or negative cost to the Public charging networks so they can pass much of this on and both User and Network benefits. Of course the first 200 miles of our EV journeys are nearly always using our 7 or 8p per kwh electricity from Home ie 2p a mile energy cost so this could be if one has driven the first 250 miles, charged, done another 250 or so miles, charged on the Plunge price lecky again and done another 250 miles. Sounds like another road trip to see how low a very long journey, even with a couple of Public charging stops could be. Could be like our Day and Night home electricity usage differing rates where we get the average cost down to half or below of the Headline rates of Public charging non discount rates or the Day time electricity rates.

Great to see firefighter working effectively to treat the threat. Looks like it was all done within a day, if not a few hours. Much quicker than we've been lead to believe based on previous information from this very thread. The reporting is also spot on, factual. I'm not seeing any whinging like other youtuber and people on this forum. The fire looks like started in the front of the vehicle, what used to be called "engine bay". There is no battery there, in fact, the battery sits quite further back. This is pure speculation from me, it may have started by heating elements (like any other car) or HV connections as it was rapid charging. Although I have to say, the empty space contributed to the efficiency in dealing with this fire. Rapid charging in tight enclosed multi-story car parks would have been much more difficult. This kind of charging fire risk does need to be heavily considered on risk assessments for tighter car parks.

I think you’ll find there is a decontamination policy for firefighter clothing and equipment after dealing with most fires, particularly vehicles of any kind not just EV. I know a few uk firefighters and have heard this talked about before. I’m sure someone on here probably knows a lot about it. I don’t doubt EVs will add to the list of things to be decontaminated but you’ve worded that as if on an ordinary ice vehicle fire they would just put the fire out and walk off, they would definitely (at least in the uk) bag up exposed clothing for decontamination.

One day you may be pleased that the distracted driver behind you has not disabled it in their car...

Not a sponsored post, just thought I'd share a purchase with you. I recently replaced my daytime running light (DRL) bulbs with these LEDs - Auxito 1156 White P21W LED Bulbs (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126645526984). Swap was fairly simple. Light units accessed very easily using advice on this forum, and the bulbs were a straight swap. Unless it was sheer luck and I got them right the first time round, they don't appear to be polarity sensitive either (although obviously if you're getting them, test they work before putting the units back in!) Bright without being too blinding, making the car a bit more obvious when the headlights aren't on. And being LED they have a more complementary colour than the standard warm filament bulbs. I'll keep an eye on the bulb life and update this post if required.

Been a serial lurker of the forum for quite a while. I've been around Skoda for too long, since 1976 when my Grandma had an Estelle I bought my own first Skoda Fabia Combi in 2019 after we bought the wife's 2018 Fabia. The Fabia Combi was written off in 2019 sadly after a road rage incident and was replaced by a Golf Variant. My facelift Octavia Combi is my pride and joy and I love driving it. Do I map it or do I keep it standard? lots of questions to be asked. Best to all.

It's sealed for life - but it isn't. As above, you can change the oil in the box itself, as well as the Mechatronic Unit (MCU). I'd probably take a look around 100k. The reccommended interval for the other DSG boxes (250, 500, etc) is 40k, aside from the 381 which is 80k. I still had mine done at 40k though. By all means get it done sooner, but as the clutches are dry (as in, not submersed in oil like on a 'wet' box), the only stuff in the oil is going to be material from the gears themselves (and other bits) rather than friction material. This will take a lot longer to accumulate. You should be fine until 100k, unless it's had a hard life around London, etc.

It's all one bit. At least, it is on every other VW I've seen. I took a chunk out of my vRS door card putting some trim back in. I've never managed to sort it, as the one card that came up on eBay was in worse condition than mine. A breakers yard would be a good option but, like me, you might find that they're all knackered.

A trip to a breakers yard would seem the best option. Can’t see why you just can’t change the pad but you would need to properly dismantle to see how the pad is secured to the door card. Breakers yard should solve it.

Hope the divorce goes smoothly!

Welcome to Briskoda @Terrierist and lovely back story 👍

It is not sealed. You open the drain plugs and the Box and MCU can be serviced, oils changed. It is just that the Manufacturer has no Service Guidelines, Advice, Schedule or specifications for servicing the DQ200 DSG. (People do service them.)

That makes no difference. It is not a 2.0 TSI or TDI or AWD or a PHEV, so not a DQ250, DQ381 or a DQ400-e. It is a Twin Dry Clutch DSG.

If FWD and 150 ps / 250 Nm max it is a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG with 2 oils and no service schedule or regime. & no filter to change.

Yes I did, thanks. I just needed to follow the trip reset procedure with the key in the ignition etc.

I wouldn't consider slightly more than 1/2 L of oil consumed in 11500 Km to be excessive. Provided the oil is from a reliable supplier and is correct spec, actual brand of oil is unimportant.

I don't think this forum likes heic format, but then I don't think many do.

Not typical. Could be a failed glow plug.

Normally closed says Mr Google 🤷 Only a tenner, so bght it. Spent £35 in total so worth a go , if not I'll get garage to do it. Thanks for all your help , let you know how I get on. D

I think 036919081D is the correct number to match. Can confirm with reg or VIN.

This link was very helpful. We used an oil pump to get the majority out, and transferred the waste oil into another container so it was pretty easy to replace the volume like-for-like. The final figure wasn’t a million miles off the 4.1L quoted by MPM. The rest of the service was very easy. I took great pleasure in the seconds it took to sort the fuel filter versus the mission on my pal’s XC70, which we sorted at the same time.

Kodiaq 2020 2.0 dsg 4x4. I've owned it for 6 months, realy nice car

You bough an incomplete 5E0919605M dsiplay it misses the lower plastic trim. Unfortunately it's different to the one of the old display and it's mission impossible to get it separately. I assume you also changed glove box unit so if it has not been patched neither assigned to the car with ODIS ONLINE you should not be surprised with Component Protection message.

I think the bigger one is XZN/triple-square/spline, not Torx. Sets aren't expensive and come in handy.

We don't actually know precisely what caused the fire at this stage, but what we can 100% rule out is the tractor unit caused it or diesel caused the fire as the tractor unit and indeed th BYD that was above the tractor unit were not involved in the fire at the outset as this photo taken at the scene proves, so diesel on this occasion cannot be blamed. I see brakes overheating has put been put forward as a theory, but surely, if the brakes were getting that hot, they would expand even more and jam the trailer brakes full on and stop the lorry altogether? On my diesel Kodiaq, if the hand brake is on, the car will not go anywhere, the same on my Superb wouldn't either.

Don't think we do, could have been several things on the article rig which were on fire which them set the BYDs alight. Becoming logical to tie down some of the large high temperature fire blankets, curtains to stop fires from trucks spreading to EVs. Quite simply to do and prevent the loss of quarter a million pounds of cars. Blankets could be used thousands of times and would not be surprised for insurance companies to demands such measures. We move around 4m finished cars per year, very high value ones in sealed trucks or containers and I would expect to see increased fire detection and retardation measures being implemented.

I've just swapped back to intelligent 🐙 as I have 2 EVs now both sort range 2024 Enyaq 50 and an 2021 MG5 The Enyaq needs charging tonight as only 18% left 😳

The blanket is probably an EV specific thing maybe to contain it if there’s some kind of reigniting, I don’t know. Dragging things away to prevent fire spreading or further damage isn’t EV specific I’m sure. In fact the firefighters were right up to the vehicle whilst the battery was burning. They wouldn’t do that with an ice vehicle fire, thermal runaway on a petrol tank is an explosion…

Thank you for providing some clarity here, but the fire blanket and the need for dragging the car out from where is, is not required for normal ICE vehicles as they can normally be dealt with and extinguished in just a few short moments with just conventional fire hoses.

Mine were a straight swap with no issues and no error messages. I don't have DAB so can't comment.

@Dibble2 As @Alasdair1 implies, it could be the alternator clutch. I suspect something else though, so does the battery light illuminate when you switch the ignition on?

To insert white plug into blue socket you have to take a small but sharp knive, identify the excessive "trim" that does not allow you to connect it and just cut it off.

Maybe it gets exposed to more weather or moisture than the others. Eg parking conditions, water thrown up by front wheels

Hi. Please do feel free to give us a try for insurance if you haven't done so already. We have a number of exclusive insurance schemes that cater for insurance on imported vehicles via the chassis number. Regards, Dan.

the kodiaq battery type is NMC, not LFP.

Important to remember that the charger Amp rating is the max. current capacity available unless it is a 'constant current' type - the charger will rarely (if ever, apart from fully discharged battery) charge at the max. rate, with the amperage progressively reducing as battery SOC increases.

Mine is also a little clunky (also recently serviced) at lower speeds. My old 2019 SEL used to be the same and that was brand new!!! I think unless you have a sportier model (better tuned DSG) or have the TCU remapped yourself I have always thought of them as quite lazy around town. Carriageway or motorway whilst you have your foot more firmly down is buttery smooth however.

The electronics and software in a 2016 Mk3 are completely different to any model year Mk4. Also the attitude of VAG and the regulations regarding ADAS systems have changed a lot since 2016 meaning that many systems cannot be disabled or have their settings changed without some "trickery".

I used these and they work really well OSRAM LEDriving SL, ≜ P21W, White... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D8JNW6Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Manuals for Skoda Octavia 4 : Avalabile for 3 days https://we.tl/t-TID7E3Cpca?utm_campaign=TRN_TDL_05&utm_source=sendgrid&utm_medium=email&trk=TRN_TDL_05

Not really sure what you are worried about. The rust is just where the pad doesn't touch the rotors. It's just steel, it will rust. The whole lot rusts, but the pad wears the rust away in the part where it contacts the rotor. Why would you expect to see a change? It's not like your pad has increased its contact area. The wear on the disk is nothing to do with the rust. Brand new rotors will rust in the shop if they weren't coated in light oil

As a solution for the problem on top, all I had to do was to change IDE11477-ENG128524-Interior lighting: parameter-p_helligkeit_entriegelt_tueren from 0% to 100% Loosely translates to "door brightness when unlocked".

I'm sorry, things might be different in your country but WHY do you need to see your phone whilst driving???????

I am 99% sure it will be PWY24W, the other can be one of those little brain flips where a letter gets swapped (then it takes a few copy/paste errors to spread)