Leaderboard

Please provide specifics or withdraw the statement

Factory reset is in the settings menu. It will initially unlink your car from your primary user account and then reset the system. Then make yourself the primary user again using the two key fobs, and also add any other user accounts. Most of your settings will then be downloaded from the cloud, and finally, re-pair your phone. I suspect this will resolve any outstanding issues and should only take 10-15 minutes. Over the last couple of years, I have applied three updates to my car via USB and have always done a complete factory reset after each one.

Don't talk daft - you've seen the list of those on the take that includes many Labour MPs - especially those at the highest levels...

^^^ Hoorah. Love it, the very person that has spent decades trying to reduce their personal taxes & boasting about it. When people have more than enough and can pay more after a life of working towards managing when retired then great, they can carry on carrying on paying taxes.

To pay tax is a privilege knowing one is still paying in and helping maintain the fabric of society.

Try living in the USA and then get seriously ill.

At least it is not just about how different or superior ICE vehicles were & still are. Or, How the future might be brighter when technology gets even better than a £40,000 Passenger EV that can do 500 miles without recharging. I do not see a Renault Twingo going 6 miles on a kWh which could be free or maybe just 6.7 pence.

Guys, this is slipping again into politics and although it did start to be about electric cars, it is getting off track now.

It's creation in 1948 by Labour government was a phenomenal event. What the nurses and doctors did during covid was also immense, it must be that hundreds lost their lives performing their duties caught covid and died. NHS needs to be rebiult after 14 years of conservative bad management abd solving the pay issue after the staff gave been so devalued. There are big structural issues but compared to so many countries that require private health care the UK is better off them some but we should be aiming to be where tge vest of other European countries are but that is going to cost and take some years to get there. Roads have similar issues ie big under investment but tjere have been some notable big improvements. The A14 Huntington upgrade improved my journey time to Cambridge and Felixstowe by over quarter of an hour. Too much population in the SE of England abd not enough biulding of towns etc in the Midlands. As with NHS it is going to takes years if not decades to go from good in places to good all over.

Can you please explain why on earth you consider the NHS something to be proud of? And our road network is light years behind some countries.

If you were someone who had a house that was 100% electric?

Thanks. If the light comes on again, we'll try replacing the aft lambda sensor. It passed it's annual test yesterday showing Lambda 1.0, so it's not the cat.

Yes, it is the same. @Sanbu sent in PM

I hope that is not true for most Labour MPs. It is very difficult to keep grounded if one is a high flying lawyer with a charge out rate in the thousands per day and then dealing with affairs of state national and international dealing with billions of pounds and vagaries of dealing with Trump etc makes the whole thing surreal. Hard to stay grounded in such rarified circumstances. Hope new Deputy leader and recent bielections like Caerphilly do keep their feet on the ground.

Remember when a Politician in England says This Country, that might be England only and not all regions / countries in the UK.

@lol-lol Now there is the Champagne Socialists in Government and they couldn't care a jot about the least well off or in need. There are the donors and sponsors to get payback for the clothes, glasses, accommodation & holiday accommodation etc that went to those in the cabinet and front bench. PS. Cabinet Ministers and others in Parliament seem to 'Forget or fail to know about taxes or Council Taxes they might be due to pay'. That's what comes from not paying attention to your Local Council, or maybe having various properties in areas or towns that are not your constituency. No idea why when they get a Grace & Favour home their rental income profits for another property they have does not go to The Treasury after Fair Wear and tear and overheads, legal costs.

If you are interested or want the truth from this, it's worth look into those adverts? They are most likely spam, and wrap solar package in a very high APR loan. As far as I know, there is no longer any government support on solar. The only support was feed in tariff (FIT) that ended about 9-10 years ago. The smart export guarantee (SEG) payments are entirely market driven and paid by energy supplier. edit: I'm speaking for available-to-all and in England. I've not looked into means-tested solar assistances.

I have always worked and paid taxes due. Con party introduced salary sacrifice and encouraged companies and individuals to do so. It massively gives governments a massive market for the Gilts the need to sell to provide benefits like your state pension and disability benefits etc. My company only adopted salary sacrifice about ten years ago or so. Before than I raised millions in tax assessments from those who were not paying their taxes and in other jobs, pwc and tax software, tje aim is always to be legally tax compliant eleven when using bonded warehouses, inward processing relief etc, all EU and now UK tax suspension schemes which promote uk jobs. My conscious is clear and I have never sponged off the system but happy to help those less fortunate physically or less blessed with smarts. Life deals one a hand and one can be lucky or unlucky and one plays ones hand the best one can for oneself, ones loved ones and the society one lives in.

The real test would have been, take away the cheapness of being able to charge at home, overnight at great savings, and tax incentives for companies etc, would there be anywhere near as many EV's on the road today? Strange, but you ask about heat pumps, I watched a video last night about that very topic, and an expert about heat pumps said that they were going so good, even with the massive grant, the cost of purchase and installation was still a considerable factor against them and I recall he was saying that the running cost was not that much cheaper, so there were little incentives for their uptake.

Happy to pay a fair share and am proud to be British with a Free at point of need NHS, a not too bad road network and numerous other niceties living in the UK. The two NI cuts the Conservatives made last year were so wrong giving most money to the already well off. Not even sure that the new EV grants are even really needed. £1500 off would not have been make or break getting the Renault 5 to me or most others I suspect. Wonder how the Heat Pump grant is being taken up as that is much bigger by comparison at £7500. We have reached the stage where EVs sell themselves on a running cost basis. The future taxation of UK vehicles is uncertain but me and other EV users, I suspect and have heard in a few cases, have no issue as paying the standard chunk of road tax like everyone else. Our reason for having EVs is the very cheap cost per mile, home charging advantage accepted, low servicing costs as well our own wish to be green in not consuming fuel to drive or in servicing procedures. We will always consider all the options available and one T Rex in the room is that less and less people will actually buy, own cars but we will, I believe, increasingly use taxis, hire cars etc. My acquisition of a car for myself next week ie the R5, and the Scenic last year, may well be the last cars I actually obtain for myself to sit on the drive 99% of the time and only be used very occasionally now and then. Not very far away, I think, from a car that self drives itself from the hire company. Love "I robot", a worry this could be the future.......

If you press both at the same time does it take a screenshot? :))

Had my mk4 superb estate for a little while now and this morning was the first time I needed to use the heated mirrors to clear condensation, after waiting for a few mins I found they had not de-misted at all so cleared them manually. (Previous car was a MK3 Octavia in which the mirrors would clear within a minute. ) I then left them on for my 20min journey to work to see if they would kick in, on arrival I checked both mirrors with my hand and they were still stone cold. Was about to ring the dealer to book in for a warranty repair but thought I’d have a play around on the infotainment first to see if there was a setting that I missed. I found nothing relating to heated mirrors specifically but after much searching I found that changing the climate setting on my custom drive mode profile from “eco” to “normal” both mirrors fired up and got warm quickly. Is this “normal” behaviour on other peoples cars? Seems odd that Eco mode would prevent them heating completely?! As far I know the car is on the latest software (built June 2025).

Morning all, I have recently returned to the forum, of which I have been a member for many years, and unfortunately found it to be a lot quieter than yester year. Such a shame! I am definitely not saying the forum is dead, and it still serves a purpose, but I remember when there used to be monthly car meets, lots of new topics in different sections on a daily basis. Some of the sections now havent had updates for months. Probably about 8 years ago, i helped organise a very successful meet at a car garage in the North West, and it went down really well. I might look at doing that again to spark a bit more interest in the area. Its very critical of me, as clearly I haven't been around for years as well, but I am hoping there are still plenty of people around to keep this community going. Happy to help if and when needed. So anyway, on a lighter note........ what's everybody's plans for the weekend 😉😆 Cheers Paul

Thanks @Novichok . I recall reading your experience and slight tweak to the pressures. Tyre wall profile makes such a difference, as does pressure. We had a Volvo XC60 which we mistakenly ordered with 20" rims in R-design trim with its stiffened suspension. Awful. I picked it up from TMS Volvo in Coventry (they were a super supplying dealership) and drove it back to Scotland. Within a few miles of joining the M6 I realised what a clot I had been. Over the three years of ownership, it being my one and only car ever acquired on PCP, I learned the technique of changing lanes without clipping the cats' eyes! That was how bad it was. The other issue with that car and my poorly judged configuration was the addition of the subwoofer which, unbeknown to me at the time of ordering. Volvo chose to locate beneath the rear bench. My son, who at the time was the sole rear seat occupant, politely requested that we turn the subwoofer bass down on the equaliser as it was so uncomfortable for him. Just to be clear, we don't actually use a great amount of bass at this low frequency either. This has been an interesting experience with the Superb though. I explained to Mrs A that, whilst I wouldn't say I am excited by the decision, I do feel content. It feels like the right car for us, a purchase made with both my head and heart - whereas previous car purchases have been 90% heart, including the Alfa Romeo from yesteryear! Best wishes.

:-) that's what I did. You explained it a bit more succinctly. The difference is that I have an MOT in hand as I think as I got my MOT done, at my own cost, at the beginning of the 1st plan. This is why at the end of the 2nd plan I have a spare MOT (but no service). Luckily I have a good indie acrosss the road from the VW garage so if it fails I will drive it straight round there and have it fixed and serviced at the same time (and possibly take out a independent warranty like the Gold/Platinum one I mentioned above). It does get a touch messy though. I thought it was quite a good trick rather than being a bit iffy

Exactly, it's an old problem that was resolved around 1941 (version not year). Beyond belief that the fault has been reinstated by this update. Anyway, factory reset seems to have sorted it

If its the internal seals on the master there will be no signs of failure unless its leaking. Same as the slave. If any are leaking then you should notice a drop in fluid over time. I reckon it may be a master cylinder problem. Alasdair

Try https://www.wingmirrorman.co.uk/

Mk 1 pre face-lift part numbers. Protective bar - 565807423A9B9 Reflector - 565945103 Reflector - 565945104

fabiamk4man If you read through the firt page of this thread, you'll see I mentioned that, for my 2009 Skoda Roomster, a 'car-fully-loaded' pressure of 3.2bar was advised for the rear tyres. I can't see why you should find it surprising that, when a lot of weight is put on a car's rear axle, the pressure in the rear tyres must, for safety reasons, be increased accordingly. In normal 'lightly-loaded' use I use 2.2bar for the Roomster's front and rear tyres, but - if, behind the car's front seats, I have loaded 500kg of builder's rubble to take to the local recycling centre - it should be obvious that the 2.2bar will be too low to safely handle the load now being put on the rear tyres. (It was also suggested earlier in this discussion that inflating to 3.4bar the standard tyres Skoda fits to Fabia Mk 4 cars might exceed the maximum pressure advised by the tyres' manufacturer, but it takes minimal research to confirm that this not so.)

When 100% charged, the highest electric range my 2023 Octavia iV has ever told me I have is 41 miles (=66 km). As others have said, that takes into account my driving style on recent trips (mainly level, fairly slow urban driving with the air con off). I do get roughly the range the car indicates with the same type of driving in the summer. With the heating or a few hills though, it drops dramatically.

Reading many posts on here over the last couple of years about these updates it appears to me that after a major update it's advisable to do a reset to factory settings and go through the pain of restoring your preferences etc. I have a theory that the updates that cause this sort of problem use a different format of the internal database used to save settings etc. - this is something I saw often when I was still working as a firmware designer. I could be wrong, just sharing my thoughts and observations...

Some time ago I was repairing a damaged 2019 Skoda Karoq with a 1.5 TSI engine, DADA and an installed "04E906455S" valve. The engine module reported the error "21729 - Engine Oil Pressure - P15AA 00 [01100101] - Lower Limit not Reached". In my case, the warning on the Instruments cluster appeared when the oil temperature exceeded 82°C. I browsed many forums on the Internet, which helped me a little, fortunately I found this document, with the help of this document I found out that the engine oil pressure should be around 1.5 Bar. Here is a picture of the valve: Using the VCDS program and interface, I checked the following data: IDE00196 Engine oil temperature IDE00496-ENG188621 Oil pressure switch valve activation-Bits 0-7 IDE02742 Oil pressure actual value IDE11203 Oil pressure setpoint IDE11330 Oil pressure control valve: activation pulse duty factor Here is the engine oil pressure data before the valve replacement: Here is the engine oil pressure data after the valve replacement: Using this data, I found the following, the damaged valve was stuck and remained in the open position, due to low pressure, the electronics are increasingly closing the valve, which is controlled using PWM modulation, the valve closing value is shown by the parameter "IDE11330". Since the engine oil pressure is not reached, the mechanical switch with the parameter "IDE00496-ENG188621" shows the value "0". The engine oil pressure is shown by the parameter IDE02742, the setpoint value of the required pressure is shown by the parameter IDE11203, if the oil pressure drops below the value of 160kPa, a message is generated on the Instruments cluster, which is visible in the picture. Here is a picture of the instrument cluster: I found an explanation of how engine lubrication works on the internet, the valve is used in the system as a safety oil pressure relief valve, in case of LOW oil PRESSURE the valve must CLOSE, in case of EXCESSED oil PRESSURE the valve must OPEN. The mentioned valve is controlled electronically using PWM modulation, thus we can ensure a constant optimal lubricating oil pressure during engine operation, regardless of temperature, oil viscosity and engine speed. Before using this technology, a classic or hydraulic pressure regulation system was used, based on a spring and an anchor which moves and releases pressure at a specific pressure. The solution is simpler, but this classic solution has a flaw, the working pressure can still change when the speed increases or decreases, over the years the spring settles. Here is a rough sketch and explanation of the parts of the engine's lubricating oil system control: As far as I know, such problems and errors can occur for several reasons, these are: - valve failure or damage, - valve or filter mesh clogging on the valve, - excessive oil leakage into other parts of the engine (the cause of the error is not in the valve) - poor pressure or flow of the engine oil pump (the cause of the error is not in the valve) I must warn you, the same valve is used for variable valves, in case of clogging of one of the valves, it is recommended to check both! To help you identify the components on your engine, you can use this page (use a web page translator for easier understanding): https://vwts.ru/articles/engine/engine-1-5-tsi-dada.html

Not much different as you may image. Specially from 2000 and up most higher tier superminis and almost all class c passenger cars were fitted from factory with 15 – 16 inch rims with tires of 185-195-205 width of 55/60 ratio and they weighed more or less the same as a today’s MK4 (most class c even more…). 4 of my previous passenger cars manufactured after 2000 (2 superminis and 2 class c) were no different than the 16 inch -195/55 of my current MK4 and in all of them the manual suggested 2,1 – 2,3 as optimal pressure (with a slight increase in full load cases).

For +35 years all my previous vehicles suggested an 2,1 -2,3 bar as “optimal” pressure and i find hard to believe that suddenly something has radical chanced leading Skoda to suggest 12 -40% higher (the 3,4 bar suggestion for rear/ loaded is unprecedented and in some cases may reaches the max allowed pressure of some tire manufactures…). The only reason i could think of is an agonizing and stupid effort for max fuel economy despite the sacrifice of all other aspects. Specially as living in Greece where the roads outside of highways are very bad maintained, i will never exchange a much softer, better feeling, and safer ride for a slight (if any…) fuel economy of just 0,5-1%... Generally speaking, after all these years i have concluded that 2,1-2,3 bar is the “sweet spot” for every day driving on low and medium loads with a possibly slight increase of 0,2-0,3 in rare cases of full load and/or driving long trips in highways with speeds above 130 km/hour. That i am following to my MK4 regardless what sticker says

Putting the vat off electricity supply and putting it on gas might give heag pumps a bit of a boost. The technology is changing by the month and the need for large water tanks and legionnaire cycles seems to be sorted now. Surprised a immersion element is not standard as to whack that on during the very cheap nighttime period sounds obvious to me. Lots of so called heating engineers just get it very wrong it seems ie radiator sizes, pipe bore sizes. Brother has a heat pump house, no gas in his little cambirdeshire village. Not perfect and install an the setup not perfect. Has a seperate room for all the gubbins which it sounds like today would not be all needed.

@lol-lol The Tax man will be having a nice amount off you once you get that State Pension & your Personal Pension. They take from those with just a small personal pension. Andrew Mountbatten Windsor will be getting the £230 a week from next February and he has his Naval Pension and as well to be getting taxed, and if there is justice in the world there might be more money they find that needs taxing.

Its great to see all the amazing feedback about Mitchells. I love this dealership and the service they provide. I have been buying Skoda's from here for approximately 12-13 years, and I am now on my 12th Skoda. In years gone by I used to deal with Dave Alexander, but when he left back in 2018 I started to deal with Dawn Sutton, along with Richard Macklin. Both are brilliant and will look after you 😊 After picking up my new Kodiaq vRS in October, I was very well looked after. Bouquet of flowers, and a bottle of champagne after hearing I was recently married. I have never dealt with such an amazing garage that really does look after you, and this is why I have been going back for years. Yes the cars are great regardless, but the experience certainly helps!

We had this recently on my Wife’s 2014 Citigo, a friend cancelled the fault code but when it came to MOT time the car failed due to high emissions, we had the post cat sensor changed but unfortunately it failed it’s retest as the emissions were still too high, in the end we had to get the Cat replaced, with a new Cat it passed the MOT at the third attempt

No issues: Thanks.

There's a separate thread about the new 1989 update with others having the same issues..... You might be better posting on that thread instead.

WTF is that mat.

Dave, German engineering has been greatly overrated from the end of last century onwards, lots of Mk3 Fabia, at least, have noises from the underside, some owners have changed some parts with success whilst others change lots of parts over time at great expense and still have noise(s). My wife's 2015 Fabia has a very noticeable clunk/clonk from about 6 years old, that was after the two front dampers had to be changed (and one of the new ones was "misting" within 11 months (2-year warranty), still on the car now and still a MoT advisory. I (luckily) don't drive the car very often but last winter when it was very cold I couldn't believe how loud the noise was, and I'm used to 20-50 year old cars' suspensions, all better than the 9 year old VW product! As put you do need to check your suspension is in reasonable condition (for a VWŠkoda Fabia of the age) and of course safe. Drop links and other bushes are favourite to replace, dampers or springs assemblies are also possibilities, other causes of course (exhaust, other). My wife's car has been through 4 MoTs since the noise started, one with VWŠkoda Dealership, another with an independent and two with a decent old-fashioned garage (they don't work weekends, imagine trying to explain that to an under-50!) and I ask them to check the suspension for parts that need changing sooner rather than later, they don't use the same dampers that the VWŠkoda Dealership use as they so short-lived.

No, you can update the OCU yourself. However, very few people know how to do it correctly. It has a boot component and an app component.

Good morning, take a look at a post @peter3197 put up in March 2021 'Idiots guide to coding for new battery' - The post was for VCDS but should point you in right direction. Important data to change is the new battery capacity, type (if changed) - and new serial number (which can simply be a change to the last digit of the original number)

Hi to all, Did someone expirienced after update to 1989 when Home “button” pressed that infotaiment reboots it self? First its black screen and after 1min it starts again, but if you press again Home,it do again the same thing. As i was driving last four hours it has downloaded ota some upgrades like manual and something else, its not detailed explained on screen of infotaiment. I will check in the morning behaviour of Home pressing. Qurious if anybody has same case? I didnt say that rest of the functions work normal, as on 1985 version…it just has issue with hone button 😆 Br Djadjo

We have a big red fire engine

Had it a month now

Recently took delivery of a 2019 sportline with the silver and black door sill protectors. Weirdly all but one had symptons of the black faded and being scratched and they just looked generally unsightly. I whipped out the super resin polish and it managed to shift the remains of the black (paint I want to say) For the protector which wasnt really faded I used a very fine piece of wet and dry paper and finished with the SRP.