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Update time, and I'm very pleased to be able to report that by replacing the M6 screw in the top of the handle with one 40mm long and passing that through a plate, trimmed to fit as mentioned above and the removal of the splined "thimble" piece and cutting out the shelf piece that it sits on, but leaving the stiffening rib in place, it seems to be a pretty good fix. The top cover went back on, and you have to look and hard to spot any sign that it had ever been removed. The handle is now good and solid, and let's hope it remains that way. 👍

Yeah that’s my old car, I did lots of work on that.

I forget now mate but didn't he put a 1.8T in it? Doesn't matter but if it was his I'd have no qualms about the maintenance. He was spot on with everything.

Well, here they are, in and fitting well #rowing #blades #skoda #octavia #estate

Thank you Bap that's interesting and some great detail information. It would be great to hear about future oil usage based on your real world driving in the same vehicle.

My nearly 7 year old original (Polo) 59AH EFB battery on a VCDS scan last month shows a battery at rest voltage of 12.4V which is nominally 70% SOC, it shows a usable battery charge of 23AH which might indicate that the 100% SOC or maybe state of health? is now, 23/0.7, 32.9AH or the battery capacity is now, 32.9/59, only 55.8% of its original 59AH capacity. The stop/start (used selectively) has never failed to operate even down to 65/68% SOC and the BMS does return the battery to its normal indicated max of 85% SOC but it can take days, you can see that even with a alternator charging voltage of 14.6V that the charging current is still only 3A and goes as low as 1.5/2A when the charging voltage falls to 13.3/13.6V while driving normally, it never maintains a high charging voltage continuously up to 85% SOC. IDE01829 Generator exciter current 2.125 A IDE01834 Battery voltage 14.598 V IDE01836 Battery current 3.024 A IDE01837 Temperature of battery sensor 26 °C IDE01839 Battery charge level 70 % IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 7.8 mOhm IDE01842 Usable battery charge 23 Ah IDE01843 Battery voltage at rest 12.4 V

@Tech1e used to own this one.

Local Renault dealership sending me a V2L adapter FOC ! Had a bit of a moan about something on the PDI of my Evolution Urban range Renault 5 and they are sending me the V2L adapter FOC. It will run at up to 3.7 kw, 16A of course but has the uk 3 pin plug output so really 13A sort of 3 kw. Would be really good for blackouts or charging one of the other EVs if it was not around to charge at the cheap time but the R5 was !

The original fault started around April/May when it went in for the CAT, and now we are in Winter I could see no dependence on hot, cold, wet, dry. The car only gets used on journeys over 30 miles. I have to trust that the auto electrician went through testing of things like the 3 coil packs. I certainly do not feel any stuttering for the majority of the driving, even when I can see the mpg drop. I would think that as only having 3 cylinders if one started to miss it would be noticeable. As I said only when the screen started to indicate very low mpg did I notice anything. Last service was in July and it was running fine at the time. I think I need to contact my friend again with the VAG software to ask about any ODB2 work when changing injectors, if it does not need it or he can do it for me I will just swap them.

Well, I'm sorry I'm boring you, but I think some readers will find it a fun fact that the security chip in their key was developed by Australian farmers so they could quickly count and register flocks of many hundreds of animals by placing an inductive loop over the gate / sheep dip and then driving the flock through them, with an immediate read-out of any missing animals. I worked with these first in 1992. It charges using inductive loop power like power share or loop charging on a smartphone, or the inductive loop on a Braun electric toothbrush stand. You can't re-program the chip code, but you can re-program the ECU that it's a valid code to operate the car. We distributed validation amongst several ECUs so changing just one wouldn't let the car accept a new key.

1.5 Etec (MHEV) has no setting to disable it (from the infotainment at least). My car doesn't have different drive modes, so I don't know if those change anything. However switching the DSG-selector from D to S, switches the controlunit to a mode where there's no coasting and start-stop is disabled (while in S-mode). I've had the DQ200 tuned, so D is a bit more sporty and S a bit less, it was an option to also disable coasting in D-mode with that tuning.

A lot of it is down to the previous journey. My wife has heating on high all the time so when she collects me the battery range is way down. I pop out that evening, have the air con temp much lower, park up and when I get back in again the range has increased.

Heater, air conditioning, seat/steering wheel heaters, window/mirror heaters, they all eat the battery and they eat it pretty fast. In the summer I do about 48 km and about 25 km in the winter. That's why I switch on the hybrid mode constantly to manage it.

Make & Model: Rapid Spaceback SE Tech 1.0 TSI 110 Year: 2018 Colour: Denim Blue Mileage: 59000+ miles Price: £6.5k ovno Description: Amazing car which we have had from new but time for a replacement. Mostly driven by my wife (retired) on Shell V-Power and sometimes by me (retired engineer). Latest Skoda maps installed on navigation system plus a speed camera database. DAB / FM radio. This will easily do 60mpg on the motorways but more usually 47/48 mpg in mixed running. Higher powered 1.0 litre engine with 110 bhp and six gears. Rear parking sensors. Both keys .. and not a single advisory in its MoT history. Condition: Used. Service History: Full service history (including the expensive (and now deemed unnecessary) cambelt change in 2023. Folder full of receipts. Extras: Heated seats. Xenon headlights. Proper spare wheel and tools. Storage compartment dividers and curry hooks fitted. Boot lip guard fitted. All interior lights LED. Bad points; small ripple in rear driver side door caused by inconsiderate SUV nimrod who couldn't park. Who then drove off (as they do). Offered here first before I get going on the usual channels - new car delivery may be in about eight / nine weeks or so. Collection: Cumbria.

Good point, it could be completely unrelated to the car itself. But using these two apps in Android Auto should be a pretty common thing, so I was hoping someone else had already experienced the same and could suggest a potential solution. TBH, I never tried it without Android Auto. I'll do it today and report back...

It doesn't matter what type of speedometer is installed.

Dear All, My issue is solved since couple of months. Evap system pressure valve was changed. The issue didnt occured anymore. This case is known at the factory, so please demand your dealers to get in touch with the factory and ask for updated valve model. Best regards,

Thanks for the reply I did think about 195/55 which are alot cheaper but I guess if I go for 55s it will reduce the gap between the tyres and the bottom of wheel arch so more likely to rub when the car is loaded I've found a review of the Maxxis and they look OK. I think I'll probably go for these as they have the higher load rating

Welcome to the forum. I have had my 1.6 for over 10 years. There was a "fix" for the dieselgate issue which I (and many others) chose to ignore. Those who did have the fix found the engine to be less torquey and plagued by multiple failures of the EGR - an expensive unit to change (in labour cost). It is easy to tell if yours has the fix as one of the changes was to insert an air straightener inside the input air pipe near the air cleaner. It sounds like your car was not changed as you mentioned the good performance in second and third. As mentioned in the user manual, the trick is to get out of first within three car lengths and use the power you get in 2nd and 3rd. Mine is even better since I changed the injectors. The glowplug light is used as a general indicator there is a problem warning stored in the ECU. MPG depends on the temperature and the short/long journeys. In winter and only short journeys I get around 54 and in summer well over 60 as long as I don't get too enthusiastic on the motorways. I have also had over 70mpg over long country roads in Norfolk. I use my phone with a bluetooth receiver plugged into the AUX socket in the central armrest cubby hole. I don't use the phone as a phone while driving, just for listening to music stored on it.

Only MIB units are covered with Component Protection

All installed and working, thanks again.

Funny connection is mentioned, obviously there has been a server issue. I lost sync, and all network connectivity last week, raised with Skoda tech, who did the standard ' factory reset ', which failed and utterly screwed up the infotainment (hell, why would they log issues and assign a problem, that would be too ITIL). Anyway, came back online and synced yesterday, after being down for about 4 days or so.

75 heated screen here, and absolutely has fine wires in mine.

I would get one of these doubles as a powerbank to charge your phone etc. Ready for when the battery starts to fail and the cheapest place i can find it https://www.diagnosticconnections.co.uk/topdon-v1500

Sound! Thanks a million mate!

I am pleased with my recent EV acquisitions and the improvement in EV technology ie narrower battery packs. My first EV was the Zoe and whilst not a SUV it was tall and energy consumption was highish at high speeds. Generally well fitted out but the lack of seat height adjustment a pain as i like to adjust the seat up and down, back and forth to change the seating position for comfort. The Scenic Renault describe as a Famiy car rather than an EV, not as tall as most SUVs, do have trouble seeing it in car parks sometimes but again not great energy consumption at higher speeds. The Mini Cooper E is low and handling great and energy consumption pretty good at higher speeds but small battery. Renault 5 picked up last week,again not very tall, not a SUV but a City car specially in the Urban 40 kwh version i have. Very good handling with its multi link suspension at the back. Lots of seat adjustment but like the Mini very little room in the back seats. So I have managed to avoid the ubiquitous SUV though all but the Mini are not great at National Speed Limit for energy consumption. If one wants a EV motorway car then probably between the Model 3 or Polestars and more Chnese cars coming thru that contend. Blade battery packs and just thinner ones dropping from around 150 mm to more like 100 mm are allowing EVs to not be SUVs by default thankfully.

Easiest option for Bluetooth is an adapter that goes in the fag lighter. It picks up your Bluetooth (from a phone say) and broadcasts it via radio, so you just tune the radio to the right frequency.

I guess it depends on the price difference between the two types, the AGM is reputed to have considerable performance and life advantages over the EFB. If anything, the AGM should be more suited to relatively infrequent use.

For a 13kwh battery 28 miles sounds reasonable in the cold what did you get last winter

Maybe you could set up an "individual drive mode" to make it behave in the way you would like?

I have the same engine in my Octavia vRS. I’m currently at 75k km. After about 5500 km the oil on the dipstick is about halfway down. I think that’s a bit much, can’t be great for the DPF longterm. My old 2017 Passat BiTdi 240bhp dipstick was still full at 15k when changing the oil.

Another very useful item for the tool box is a pair of the threaded rods to initially position the wheel while refitting the bolts.

Extremely poor (and risky) for them to have overfilled by that much - how far above max was it after the service?

Hi, I do have the same Kodiaq Mk1 MY22 TD200 4x4 L&K. Bought it in last April @ ~40000km. Had the oil and oil filter changed @47000 km (since previous maintenance had been a bit offset by previous owner). It now has 53000km, but I haven't topped up yet, mainly because, the dealer had poor a bit too much oil in... It's now at the max allowed level. I'll check how it decreases over the next months... Dealing with fuel consumption, I've similar fuel burn values, I'd say. A full tank (~58l) enables me to cover 800 to 880km depending on driving style and outside temp. Real average fuel consumption (calculated value, not dashboard value) is 7.30L/100km since I'm the owner (~13000km over last 7 months). I've dropped down to 6.9l once or twice. Max value was over 8.0l once after a 300km trip on french motorway with a 80-100kmh headwind. Most of the time, it's between 7.1 and 7.4l/100km.

Hello, not sure if it's a good assumption that your Banner-branded battery is original - I'd agree it to be more likely if it had been a Moll EFB. There will possibly be a date code stamped on the top of the negative terminal, which can confirm age. AGM performance is superior to EFB and is possibly worth the extra cost - but it is even more important that new type is adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM if changing type (any replacement battery should be adapted anyway)

You sure do seem to be unlucky. ☹️ You can't have anything nice these days ...... 😥 Mebbe invest in a Dashcam with Parking Mode. 🤔

As far as I am aware the ethanol content of E5 and E10 is variable within batches of fuel. As all fuel comes from large tanks in the refineries, all brands filled from those tanks will have the same content, the difference between brands being the additives. This may vary between batches. The proportion of ethanol can vary significantly between refineries, so there may be significant differences between the ethanol content of E10 between, say, Esso bought in Southampton (ex Fawley) and Scotland (probably ex Grangemouth)., but Shell in the same locations may well be the same.

I’ve had my Superb back now after a 3month software update and was told it was thoroughly tested to make sure all was ok . I have now travelled for over 1000 miles without fault and no alarms going off etc in that time . I believe for me the issues appear tobe with the early production models with the logo on the steering wheel as opposed to the letters . Hopefully they have all been addressed now and your car will be fine. I am enjoying the car now it is an exceptional vehicle but it will be a little while longer before my confidence is 100%

That looks pretty tidy. Did a quick MOT history check and nothing metioned re corosion etc underneath. As long as the previous owner was a proper mechanic should be ok. Theres loads of so called mechanics out there!!!. At just over 100k may need a timing belt change which I always do anyway when I get a new car just to be sure its been done with a good quality belt unless its a chain? plus a full service. At the price they are asking it may be worth snapping up . I have seen a lot worse for the money these days with major corosion on subframes etc. I personally dont mind paying over book price if its in really good condition. Obviously offer a good bit less. Good luck Alasdair

That's because they weren't a very popular model to have in the first place though some claimed them to be faster than a MkI Fabia vRS which they weren't by any means. If it must be petrol, far better to plump for the 1.4 16V (the 100hp version) IMO and avoid the 1.4MPI. Old Briskoda folklore 'I took him like a King'. Those who know will know.

The Estate and Hatchback both use the same floor plan. There is more space in the boot of an Estate only in height.

Hi there I am thinking of upgrading my tyres as we live in the sticks and I have a bunch of xmas markets coming up which we are attending. Current tyres are Triangle th202 87v all round summer tyres. I have a Fabia 2013 1.2tsi Scout Estate and it's got an unusual wheel size and therefore limited choice and more expensive. Thanks Skoda! The tyres i am looking for are 205/45r16 87v Being an estate I need to lug stuff about so I think I need the greater load up 87v rather than 83 which rules out the Vredestein and Michelin Cross Climates as these both appear to 83 load Someone said that if I go for 83s I won't be able to carry as much before the tyre sinks into the rear wheel arch. Im currently thinking Maxxis ap3 and Kumho Solus 4s ha32. I am looking something good in the wet as we live in Devon where is rains for 90% of the year. These two both have the higher load. Just wondered if anyone had any other recommendations? Cheers Phil Ps My last car was a fabia 2009 hatch and that has cross climate which were brilliant. Only snag is that in the 205/45r16 size they are nearly 200 pounds each fitted and the load rating is less.

Got a fault on my L&K 2.0 TSI 4x4 last week. The main center screen stays black even though you can press the options. Went to the dealer and he said it can be reset by pressing the off button for 20 seconds. This works as a work-around but he also said a software update was needed which will be done on the 1st.

I´d say 3-4mm