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I too did research before buying an ev Use it to do what you want to. Charge it appropriately if you need 100% and are using it it's not really a problem In the earlier days, most experts warned that using fast charging (DC) leads to more degradation over slow charging (AC), due to heat and plating at high C-rates. Especially in the cold. In real-world fleets, the picture is more nuanced. Recurrent’s 2024 analysis of ~13,000 Teslas found no statistically significant difference in range degradation between cars that fast-charged most of the time and those that fast-charged rarely. The more practical rule: avoid extremes (very hot, very cold, or very high SoC), and don’t waste time forcing DC from the 80 to 100% unless your trip requires it. EleportShould I Charge My EV To 100% | How It Depends On Your Ba...Should I charge my EV to 100 percent? A common question that sees all sorts of wrong answers. There are a few key factors to consider when charging EV to 100%

That sounds like an expensive vet bill....!!!

Uncle has just ordered a renault 5 to replace his ID3, apparently newer battery tech means that charinging to 100% is not an issue on cars with newer battery tech altough getting the last of tht 100% into the battery is still and uphill battle apparently.

If you have a Climatronic heater then you can use the humidity control feature to help dry the car (and also clear the windscreen fast). Just set the temperature to where you normally have it but with the blower a bit faster. Then make sure the air conditioning is set to ON. I know it sounds daft but the water is removed by the cold side of the A/C before being heated to the set temperature. Leaving it on recirculation for short periods will help.

Millions of VW Group TSI,s running about globally since 2018 since VW Group started using VW508 00 / 500 00, so 0w 20 FS IV. That is in countries regions with similar or more extreme temps than in Greece. The charge was for the WLTP & RDE2 figures. Please yourself if you want to go and use VW504 00 / 507 00 so 5w 30 FS III or 0W 30 FS III. I would go with the 0w 30 FS III in a hot country with occasional cold weather. I would have an extended warranty though, so that means sticking to using their Recommended oil. But then for a Fixed Oil Service Regime VW502 00, 5w 40 FS can be used. Just they do not tell you that.

Because in my opinion, many of the choices made by manufacturers over the last 10 years have been made with the aim of achieving maximum economy and emissions, often at the expense of other parameters which in that case have to do with reliability and long-term durability. After all, what they care about is that the car comes out of the warranty unscathed, whether the engine will survive half the kilometers than it should and could is not concern them - perhaps they even seek it. That is why in recent years you see oils becoming thinner and the change intervals getting longer. Personally, living in a warm climate (which certainly to some extent affects the choice of oil viscocity) and wanting the best in terms of longevity, thinking about such a change (which is not miles away from what is recommended – the same engine basically called for 504 5w-30 a few years ago) is not unreasonable or unheard of – combined with the fact that such thinking seems to be supported by many experts in the field as reflected in dozens of discussions/videos/interviews/tests… Anyway, i still have almost 1 year until I decide whether to change or not

Mine did that last winter, had to use the hairdryer and multiple lock/unlock (use the button on the dashboard to protect your fob battery) and it opened. Then no problems until August when on the motorway stopped to charge and it wouldn't open lock/unlock worked. This time the solenoid had now failed. I have re-posted in "moments of joy" about the result. Phoned Skoda assist they came next day (Fri) opened the flap by snapping the pin, ordered the parts (two parts needed to return to undamaged). Came back Saturday and fitted in less than an hour.

So, referring back to my original post, what was my decision? My default attitude to insurance, generally, is to 'self-insure' if I think I can pay for a hit. Hence I buy insurance if I go abroad and I insure the house - and after a motorway tyre blow-out, I purchase breakdown insurance. I don't bother with health/dental/dog insurance etc. The 'All-in' policy included 3 elements - breakdown cover, service plan, and extended warranty. Against my normal instincts, I have decided to cover all 3. Our cars are insured with LV and I was simply able to add breakdown/recovery to the policy for the remainder of the insurance term. LV were very much 'on the ball' with that. The 'service plan' was set up by my local Skoda dealer to continue when the old plan expired - when I looked at the cost, it wasn't very different to using my independent and it was broken down into monthly payments. The real insurance 'gamble' was with the extended warranty - the thought of a fault with the infotainment screen makes me very twitchy. So I have also gone with the Skoda extended warranty. Whilst we have a very good local independent who looks after my wife's B-max, my decision was influenced by the fact that our Skoda dealer has proved to be very good 'Vindis Skoda' in Bury St Edmunds - also honourably mentioned by Sanqhar in the 'petrol v diesel' thread.

Yeah so we needed a bunch of apps. the car demands an app and it has a minimal suite of charging options but they are there. The error message is just that "there has been an error" no more information than that. As an IT person it grinds my gears when supplier hide the logs away. I could tell what was going on if I could see some logs. We have to have an app for the charger the Ohme app. We need to have an app for our energy supplier, Octopus. None of the apps are by choice. Octopus talks to the Ohme Ohme talks to octopus and the car The car only talks to Ohme. Spoke with my Mrs uncle who has had an ID3 for 3yr. He said that they had had the same issues with their car and that it would on occasion no charge properly and he never got a formal answer to why. His suspicion (and he's not daft) is that the VW software is the problem, it will often 'go to sleep' and not wake up the car systems to accept charge. I got the same story from the Octopus support guy, he talked about issues with VW's not waking up to accept charge. Uncle also suggested making sure that the charging target is the same in all places, the car has a limit that only changes in 10% increments, the charger does 5% increments. So the charger was set to 95% and the Car 100%. I've set them both to 90% now and last night it worked, nor errors. We did see the car on Sat morning where it failed again, the charger port on the car showed a red light when I unlocked and relocked the car. This was definitely green the night before. I unplugged and replugged the car and it immediately started charging. We've done a little research and apparently 100% on VWs is actually only 94%. Was an unoffical source. But I do think it's a bit out of order to say that a car does say 200 miles on a charge but then very forcefully set the car to only charge to 80% to 'preserve the battery'. Really the range should be on the 'recommended charge level'. We certailly didn;t pick the car based on 80% of it's max range nor did anyone at any point suggest that we would only get 80% or would damage the car..

Wotcha! I got my kid an Octavia mk3 as first car - here in Sydney, but I'm what is known locally as a Pom Already had one expensive bill - the dreaded water pump, so keen to look at DIY for further maintenance, and back bushings are squeaky, so there's clearly some stuff to do. I work on cars as a hobby - most recent success was rebuilding a Golf 1.4tsi twin-charged motor which suffered the cracked piston problem which was detected early - cylinder walls were ok, and the car has done 10k kms since then without any oil top up.

had to google him (thats how long I've been out of the UK) nah, its just one of those weird colloqualisms.. if I said that to an Aussie they'd be confused so I took the chance to get it out of my system. and omg.. MIB1 upgrade paths to carplay are um.. weirdly tricky. Much tougher than the RCD-330 for my other kid's 2009 golf.

Sounds normal. I am assuming you don't have any wheel trims on the steel wheels? Thanks. AG Falco

No, that is the way they are built.

Scottish guy with an EV business in Gloucester. This van Rapid charged nearly six thousands times !!!!!!

If its shutting down when driving and p0606 I wonder if its a wiring issue either poor connection to ECU/broken wire or bad earth thats cutting the engine. It may be triggered by vibration/bumps in road but ok at idle. Not sure if the strip fuses beside battery feed anything that would cause shutdown. On my sons MK1 they are individual and are prone to hair line cracks that are impossible to see until removed but I think on the MK3 they are a complete sealed unit. I assume as its a new battery its reading a decent voltage etc. It may also be a software issue. Alasdair

Problem solved following this post: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495900-apponline-portal-not-updating/ The fuse to pull out in my case was the fuse 19 (refers to online services). After pull out and put it in again the online service comes online.

I honestly suggest getting yourself a ODBEleven reader. Getting generic readers causes more frustration and problems than it resolves. You then just need to download the app for iOS or Android. Even if you get just an ODBEleven Gen2 dongle (ideal for the MK3 Octavia) - £52.89; this can read codes properly and give you better diagnostic output. https://obdeleven.com/products/nextgen-obdeleven-device

The originals are the best from comfort standpoint - they have touch auto roll up/down with pinch protection, IMO, electric windows without that are pointless. Here's an installation guide in Czech, that includes wiring diagrams as well - it should be easy to translate with Google. https://www.feliciaklub.cz/navody/elektricke-ovladani-oken-2.html It's also possible to modify the regulators to rear doors just by swapping the rear rail onto them and they allow for secondary button, since the same motors were used in VW T4 (but with different window mechanism) The disadvantage is that they are hard to come by and they weren't cheap. You may be able to get second hand, but the plastic Bowden tube is often damaged - but it's repairable and there are 3rd party spares available. There were also some conversion kits sold by Skoda themselves, which had metal tubes and were also available for rear windows, but those are probably even harder to get. The last option is generic conversion kit that just turns the crank for you. These all have same basic connection, where the button itself turns the voltage and all you need to do is get 2 wires to the door.

Yes it happens both when driving and idling

You can find the bug being reported form few years ago and still present. I suspect that software dev is not an area can manufacturers want to invest in plus making things work together requires speaking with other manufacturers on a cooperative basis. They hate doing it unless they are forces by legislation.

HI I'm new to the Briskoda forums, mostly to get info and feedback on the navigation and electronics of my Octavia (I'm not a good mechanic) Thanks for letting me in

That's why I'm not usually a fan of these money-making add-ons as the cost to repair or even replace a tyre often outweighs the cost of the insurance but alloys I'm not too sure what that costs these days if they get scuffed or worse. I can take it or leave it either way but the manager was upfront and said that if I chose not accept them then he couldn't offer the £200 or so extra discount. Discount on the car price would be somewhere around £250-£300 in that case as opposed to £500. I'm used to haggling £1000s off a new car but used cars seem to get very little?

Do not put too much/excessive, er, weight, or consideration on the oil grade or grade range figures or other specification figures, as with the cars, the oils have been blended for wide use and conditions and with some compromises, plus real world use over real time may give slightly different results and outcomes to formula testing. And then it depends on how strictly VW control the blender in what VW want from the oils. I would guess VW exercise a lot of control hence the VW specifications numbers, same as other manufacturers I know, partly marketing but possibly to help cover the design and build compromises of the engine (gearbox) as all mass market engines must have. Of course I would never suggest flaws in anything VW builds or does. 😁 If anyone thinks a car manufacturer has its customers' best interests at heart then I can introduce them to an African military person who can offer them a fantastic investment opportunity. 😄 (one for older reader there 😄).

Is there any tech-bulletin with Ohme or VW? Worth probe them for compatibility info/updates. My parents' Renault Megane had compatibility problem with Zappi. After some searching, it turns out Renault need to do a firmware update to make it compatible. https://support.myenergi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/21802420976657-Troubleshooting-Charge-Delayed-Notification-on-the-Renault-Megane The symptom is exactly what you describe. Charges fine on first plug in or first scheduled charging session. But fails to wake up for subsequent charging sessions. Though this is a lot easier to debug due to it ALWAYS happens. But Renault still threatened to charge diagnostic even though we sent over the Zappi page with Renault's own ACTIS number. The vehicle is sold as supporting OTA updates, clearly not Tesla level, no OTA on all systems. Stupid traditional manufacturer and dealership shenanigans.

I doubt that there’s very much advice anyone can give. You’re buying a nearly new car, that’ll come with a decent warranty. Apart from reading some of the relevant Mk4 topics on here, if you like it…. Gaz

Aspmam.... We've done a little research and apparently 100% on VWs is actually only 94%. Was an unoffical source. But I do think it's a bit out of order to say that a car does say 200 miles on a charge but then very forcefully set the car to only charge to 80% to 'preserve the battery'. Really the range should be on the 'recommended charge level'. We certailly didn;t pick the car based on 80% of it's max range nor did anyone at any point suggest that we would only get 80% or would damage the car.. I think this 5 or 6 % buffer above and below the displayed SoC is common with European cars, not so surecabout Far East cars which i suspect report smaller buffers. Toyota / Subaru not withstanding which seem to make a pigs ear of their first fill EV launch. What would be nice is to have a 97 or 98% setting or a displayed 100% and a real 100% charged as 95% displayed seems like it is really 90%. Think i will charge to 95%, stop record the SoC shown and then add the remaining 5% which hopefully is more like 10%. Both my Renault EVs suddenly show about 20% more range now the temps are up by 10c or so. Either as you trundle along or press the trip rest and suddenly you have another 30 miles of reported range !

Thanks for the replies and yes you have a point Aldfort, I keep having to remind myself that this will be a first car and all the scrapes that are likely to go with it! Insurance as I say is very similar for both cars and even the sticker price on the cheaper 2019 car is only about £500 difference so they're very much on a par in that regard. On that basis then it sounds like the cheaper car that's not as cosmetically nice but with the better engine and gearbox is the one to go for. I'm not normally a fan of the add-ons either (except for GAP which is £150) and said no to them but the dealer has basically offered a further £200 discount to take the alloy (about £230) and tyre insurance (about £150) which means they're costing about £180 for both for 3 years cover. Considering it's a first car and all then I didn't think that was bad? Only extras will be front and rear dashcams (£299 fitted) and a set of mudflaps (£165)

First car for a new driver. I'd pick the cheaper and less cosmetically up together one. also insurance to consider in the equation.

So red light on the cars charging port this morning again. No errors logged anywhere but then no actual charging has happened. The car hasn’t moved since Sat when the last successful charge happened. But then the cable hasn’t been removed since the last successful charge. I’ll blow out the electrical connections with canned air later in case there is grit or something in there

An update: The new gear started to slip on the shaft, so I've now drilled it and inserted a pin to stop this. It has introduced some free play / backslash, so the wiper now doesn't do a full speed of the rear window.

You can't really see it in the video, you can hear it "pop" better. You may just see that the key position is still in lock position. At the same time the alarm is disabled, and the other doors are also unlocked. VID20251110134327.mp4 And I promise there isn't anyone pulling the leaver next to the drivers seat. I know It's not like some of the more upmarket cars nowadays, where the trunk rises with opening, but as Papez said, the factory system has the second button option but is pointless, so maybe skoda had thoughts to this, but then didn't bother.

Oh right I see thanks. I did notice that the needle didn't move until it reached about 50°c using the OBD reader as a reference and then once it reached 70°c, it did seem to line up with the correct place on the gauge. Also, I did find the heat output from the heater at the 70°c mark fairly warm, just not quite warm enough which getting the engine temp up to the 90°c would probably get it to. So I feel the heat output from the heater also corresponds to the 70°c temp readings being accurate in my view.

I have a VW that I bought new in Oct 23. VW recommend a C5 0W-20 oil is fitted. You can also use a C3 5W-30 oil. This was confirmed by TPS. VW's parts supplier in the UK. At the first service in Oct 24 the VW dealer fitted the C3 oil for me. At the Second service in Oct 25 the VW dealer fitted the C3 oil for me. I have also changed the oil sticker under the bonnet to the oil I use. I keep my cars for a long time so the oil I chose is important to me. Details I found were:- VW 504 is a FS LL 5W 30 C3 oil and is better at reducing engine wear with a HT/HS viscosity of 3.5 cP than a C5 oil. VW 508, VW 509 is a FS LL 0W 20 C5 oil has a HT/HS viscosity of 2.6- 2.9 cP. They can improve fuel economy by 1%. Engines using this oil will suffer more engine wear than one using a C3 oil. 5W oil is still a flowing liquid at -30°C. 0W oil is still a flowing liquid at -35°C. How cold is it in Greece? ACEA C3''Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and petrol engines, with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life.'' As apposed to C5 :- ACEA C5''ACEA C5 oils are high performance, lower SAPS lubricants. The primary goal of ACEA C5 oils is increased fuel economy in high performance petrol and diesel engines in passenger cars where advanced after-treatment systems such as Diesel Particulate Filters and Three Way Catalysts are used. HTHS viscosity must be in the range 2.6 to 2.9mPa.s (i.e. low) - typically SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 and made with Group III base oils.'' HTH Thanks. AG Falco

On side of cylinder head towards battery under the MAF ducting. Fairly easy to replace but you'll lose some coolant. Pop an ice cream tub under it to catch coolant. Bosch or Febi equivalent.

You can go round and round on the internet until you disappear into one of your own orifices and still not have a definitive answer on things like engine oils, people have their own strongly held beliefs on such stuff. Use a good quality oil or better quality oil if you want, a very good 0w-20 oil should/might be better than a good quality 5w-30 and it is so the other way round, a very good quality 5w-30 should/might be better than a good quality 0w-20 - BUT - the differences might be small or very small. It may also depend on if you expect still to be using the engine and car in x-years time or you are only keeping the car for a short(er) number of years. The oil has to suit the circumstances, the engine, it's use and the conditions of use. Following what VW wants will meet VW requirements and that is fine, or you may want or think you need more which is fine, it is your car, time and money. VW do not care much about your engine once it is out of their warranty they would prefer to sell you either a new car or as much servicing and repair of your existing car as they can get as they can make plenty out of parts - but not out of oil, unless you buy it with VW labels on. Generally any 0w grade oil will be a good oil just to meet the 0W grade but to meet the 5w grade takes a good oil too so it is up to you which keeps you more content. Unless you do double oil changes and oil analyses over a period of time with two oils to compare it would be difficult to judge or confirm results. Personally I would use a very good oil of whichever grade you prefer. As you know if you want you can be overloaded with information and opinions and beliefs I can point you to loads of information none of it directs relates to a 2023 Fabia in Greece though, so just buy good quality, or better, engine oil and do timely, thorough* oil changes. (*this is not sucking out cold engine oil to me but fully draining out warm (hot) engine oil)

I have aftermarket, work perfect. The kt fits with no modifications. A piece of thick nylon can do the job, use strong double-side adhesive tape, check the drain holes to be full open. Here was the old (driver's side) Diagram

soooo, sw update done. What I already see: carplay black screen seems to be solved mobile reminder switch solved mobile parking didn’t arrive unfortunately if something else interesting comes up I will share that too

Hello, I am the owner of car number 51/100 from the Škoda Octavia RS WRC Edition 100 series. I have the complete documentation and full history of the vehicle – starting from its purchase at the Škoda dealership in the Czech Republic, through its export and transport to Dubai, and all records up to today. If needed, I can share photos, details about the car’s originality, condition, and the full set of documents. You can also contact me on WhatsApp: if you are interested.

Congratulations on your new, to you, car. I would suggest that you do not modify anything on it for the first few weeks. Drive it, make sure EVERYTHING works as it should and enjoy it. If you do find any problems then the seller cannot blame them on anything that you have done.

I bought a “space saver” for my Elroq. It hasn’t caused me any issues carrying it around as in the photo.If I ever need to really load up it would just have to be left behind but that scenario hasn’t happened yet.

You can always buy a spare wheel or tyre, the question is where will you store it ? Leave it in the boot but that will eat into your bootspace. For some strange reason 15 years back the EU and UK decided it was acceptable to just have a can of sealant ... As soon as that regulation was passed they all saw the opportunity to save a little bit of money . Whether not the Elroq is suitable for you, the only way you can answer is by test driving as it's personal to wash person. For us, our Elroq VRS is perfect size. We had a Kodiaq followed by a Tesla Model y ( too big with awful turning circle), we live in a city so wanted something a bit more usable. Renault 5 was too small , enyaq was the roughly the same size as the Model Y. Elroq was perfect , especially as we have growing kids . We also have a superb estate we use for camping etc

Hello Simon My first Skoda was a Superb V6TDI 😎 As a first port of call, have you checked for water ingress? In the plenum chamber and under the carpet in left side (UK passenger) footwell - wet in these areas can cause a host of odd electrical issues. Gaz

I've fixed this now, pulling a couple of fuses and rebooting the infotainment system did the job.

Lol now there seemed to be an app update, now the Ohme charger and the car are all out of whack. Car says it has 61% the Ohme says it has 16%. [Edit] unpaired and repaired and that has solved this issue. Whomever signs off the software for these needs beaten with hosepipes for a few hours