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Mk3 Fabia seemed to get a flakier ignition switch than previous models, I'm vaguely remembering. Might be worth searching this subforum for threads where ignition switch features.

June 2023 Skoda / VW changed the Cambelt schedule for replacement to more like 180,000 miles and however many years, not 5 years / 50,000 miles. Let the Dealership that says a 1.0 TSI is @ 140,000 miles show you in writing. The Service Desk person can maybe go ask the Master Tech if he advises it then. Not the Service Manager, is is not a mechanical engineer. I hope the car had new spark plugs recently and at least once before that. Re Cambelt, be sure who does it knows the 1.0 TSI and has the locking tool. Too many have been messed up. the 1.0 TSI is nothing like as expensive to have done as a 1.5 TSI ACT.

The acceleration wasn't too bad with +150bhp There was/ still is a six speed conversion kit for those boxes but the price was too high for my liking. IIRC the adding of the sixth cog and accompanying parts could be done with the box in situ.

The 2023 Toyota Corolla Touring Sports 1.8 Hybrid 5dr estate with a sill height to ground of 375mm would seem to be a good fit for you. Excellent reviews and plenty of room inside. In terms of swapping an older Yeti I wouldn’t give up on trying a trade-in when you find a replacement. Even older Yeti’s are in demand and as you have all papers etc. it is surely worth getting a trade in valuation - saves a load of hassle what with time wasters, test drives, finance etc. I ended up trading in my Yeti when I eventually swapped it (still one of best cars I have owned) and probably lost about £300-£400 over what I could have got privately BUT all I had too do was drive it to the dealers, sign a few papers and drive away in the new car. No hassle, no worries.

According to this road transport accounts for 15% of global CO2 emissions, so while it's significant it's not the major source.

New guy here, I have an Octavia 3 estate that I really like. I won't be much help to anyone I'm afraid as this is my first Skoda. But if your interior lights, auto lights, auto windscreen wipers don't work, I fixed mine when I first bought it, it's a 15 minute fix. If that's you, hit me up. Regards, T1MEB

Yes the are working fine. Ow and also the battery was checked and was OK.

Hi guys just a quick update with a few pictures. I’ve now had the head skimmed as it was warped and out of spec so is looking the bees knees now. Oil poured into the barrels as a trial and it sat there for over a week and I ended up scooping it out with rags 😂 Sonic cleaner and carb clearer bought along with head bolts and gaskets. Sump removed and oil pickup removed. With all that bought I thought it was time to get the pistons out and give them a clean and measure the con rod shells. So with that in mind here’s some measurements and pics. The con rod shells to crank gap all measured roughly the same of 0.2 which according to the Haynes manual is showing little to no wear and the crank shows no damage either. The pistons all removed and again showing little wear to no wear. 2 out of the 4 pistons have been in the sonic cleaner and though when removed the looked fine (to me) the ring are moving more freely and go deeper into the piston cutout than the previously did. So that’s where I’m at right now but I’m going to be cracking on with it over the next few weeks. Just have one question, where can I get a oil pickup gasket for a 1.6 EEA engine?

You have made several repeated comments that have led me to the belief you don’t accept climate change as being real, nor that the consequences are real. And facts are facts - vehicle emissions are a major part of the global co2 issue, so you comment about tailpipe emissions very much ties to that same view 🤷🏻‍♂️

As the decline in performance is gradual you will seem to think it is working fine, when actually it is not. A lot of owners also do not use the system frequently, when they should do, as the gas has lubricants added that keep the seals in order. If you do not use it the seals dry out and you loose the gas. The compressors draw on the engine is also minimal and will effect mpg no more than driving with the window open, probably less, so a false economy not to use it. I always run the car with mine on and stick to a 3 year re-gas. I did this with cars prior to the Yeti and now with my Audi A3. When I'm in France in the summer and it hits high 30's, even low 40's c the car is nice and cold. The cost advantage lies with the Yeti owner over more modern cars when it comes to a re-gas as you are faced with a £60/70 bill as opposed to a £120/140 bill due to the different gas used in post 2019 ? cars. Do yourselves a favour, use it, re-gas every 3 years and make the most of what you have in a great car. Colin

My 2009 1.8 TSI exhaust broke earlier this year, just where the pipe joins the middle box, hunted around and the price for that was £700 plus, and a six month wait for the replacement section, could not wait that long as it is a used daily, for the whole system i was quoted £1500. Checked around the local custom exhaust fabricators and got the complete system replaced in stainless steel for £750, with ten year guarantee. As an aside looking for a new battery, no designation in the handbook of size physical or Ah needed, anybody got any ideas for this?

Hi All, my local garage confirmed "limp mode" and turbo actuator rod nor moving. He has cleaned the actuator and all is good. Thanks all for your response to my query.

I replaced the battery with a new one and the fault is still coming back

Two different oils used as well. It also has no service schedule.

Who changed the oil in the DQ200 & MCU? Can you be certain the correct oil capacity was refilled?

Thanks for the welcome. I'm new to Skoda but not mechanics or electrics. I did own a Subaru Sti about 20 years in California when they first came out. I had that engine modified and went a bit crazy modifying it.

Howdy folks. Sean here from Ireland. Back again after a good few years away from skoda. Just got myself a mk3 superb as a daily run about. Use to have a black fabia vrs back in the day. Some of ye may remember me for making armrest adapter brackets for them. Even had messages looking for them when I logged back in so sorry for not seeing them..

Hello everyone! My name is Karlo Maders. I recently became the owner of a Škoda Superb and decided to join the forum to learn more about ownership, read advice from experienced drivers, and eventually share my own experience. Glad to be part of the community — wishing everyone safe and enjoyable driving!

Check the cabin filter (passenger footwell) for condition and fit, ours was full of crap and missing the retaining clip so most of the airflow was just going straight downwards, to the easiest path. I replaced the filter with a new one and got a used clip from eBay.

Hi all, so the Kodiaq went in for its Part 2 of the Oil Consumption test. I was informed this was within Skoda tolerances, but have since found that as per the Kodiaq. However on checking the online manual for the Skoda Kodiaq and other VW vehicles I found this statement: 'VW Group’s acceptable limit: up to 0.5 L per 1,000 km' Oil consumption: 0.536 L per 1,000 km (≈ 0.536 L per 621 miles) As mine exceeds the VW Group’s maximum permissible limit of 0.5 L/1000 km, as documented in both the Owner’s Manual and Technical Service Bulletin 2017813/19. I have written to the main dealer again asking what the next steps are that will be undertaken under warranty. I thought I would keep all posted Cheers

I blame the dinosaurs

That's correct on the Mk4, the heated screen has an all over film not the individual heated elements. As the screen heats then I'd suggest that even though it's not a Skoda branded screen it's a proper replacement.

Thanks pal 👍 Thanks pal 👍

If you go search in the other parts of the forum, you will find people local to you who have VCDS. Otherwise, you need somebody locally who has ODBEleven. If you have a VAG vehicle, I suggest that you go purchase an ODBEleven dongle yourself. An ODBEleven Gen2 will be fine. I think you will need to go to the Pro plan to get access to reset the metrics for the DPF in Module 01 Engine, but I could be wrong here. At the time of writing, they have a 25% discount deal on. https://obdeleven.com/products

The 5 speed was a far better option than the 6 speed, unless you're looking for some silly top speeds.

Hello and welcome to Briskoda @karlo 👋

Not necessary - you can switch the ignition off while the park brake is in service mode and it will remember when you switch back on to exit. Once in service mode, push the pistons straight back without turning them. Make absolutely sure that the brakes are fully reassembled before exiting service mode.

I'd start with the basics as suggested - do wheel balancing first. Swap your wheel wheels to the front and see if it makes any difference to the issue. Not all tyre fitters know how to balance wheels correctly. I learnt this once when had vibrations through the wheel with some wider 18" wheels following some new tyres being fitted. Despite revisiting various tyre fitters I was told my wheels were balanced perfectly but still the vibrations persisted. Turned out I needed dynamic wheel balancing to correctly apply weights to the wheels and also aligning so the type colours dots lined up with the valve. A place called 'Protyre' do have balancing machines that have dynamic tyre balancing facilities. On other cars, older tyres caused me a problem just as you described, presumably developed hard spots as the rubber changes over time.

The Condenser sits right at the front of the car in front of the radiator so it gets exposed to rain, salt grit etc. I’ve had to replace them at about 10 years but with your such low mileage it’s probably going to last longer. But really you don’t need to do any work on the aircon unless it starts to cause issues.

Erm. Just where did I say or suggest that I don't accept that climate change is real? I said that maybe the linkage to tailpipe emissions might not be correct after all. Is everybody else in denial that there has been ongoing climate change throughout Earth's 4.5 billion years of history?

I replaced the rear pads and disks on my 2016 Greenline a few weeks ago. Replacing the disks as well as the pads is almost as quick and easy as replacing the pads. I have a Launch 919 tablet (cost just over £300 new from ebay), as we have cars from multiple makes in our family. When you wind the parking brake in (and then back out again after you've replaced the pads), with a diagnostic tool you'll need to keep the battery above 12 volts. You can do this with a trickle charger or with jump leads from another car. I didn't fancy using a G clamp to wind the (foot brake) caliper back in due to the plastic housing on the rear of the caliper. So I bought a basic Hilka Brake Caliper Rewind tool from a local store (for £14).

I see you’re still not accepting of the reality of climate change… you need to read and accept the cookies from a few more sources so your algorithms stop pipelining your viewing recommendations. ( just a friendly suggestion) IF the EU policy is changed, then it won’t be because of your reason. It will be because of the reality that no country has the grid capacity or generation capacity in place or possibly in place to supply the electricity needed for majority EV private vehicles to be on the road by 2030, and continuing with the push to that deadline wasn’t feasible. For it to become possible, we all need to accept that nuclear power is clean and safe. And there are modular designs that use much less fuel and produce a lot less waste than the stuff everyone thinks of from the 50’s/60’s (which were only pushed as the main design because it produced byproducts suitable for weapons…) Renewable does need investment too, but it can’t cover everything unfortunately. Fusion in my lifetime would be the ultimate game changer…

Although this thread will take an unexpected turn if you just start getting trolled with DIY suggestions 🤣

Given the power gap from the mk1’s up to the new ones, and let’s face, a mk1 octy/ furby is now a min 20/21 yrs old, finding a couple of actually unaltered, and running clean and well ones was probably a challenge. So they were never gonna be giving much newer stuff a real run. Even losing 1 horse a year they were gonna be down a good bit. That said, I do think they both did incredibly well!

Nooooo The MkI Fabia 1.9 TDi Elegance. With a cheeky remap to 155 bhp. Heated seats FTW

Google OBDeleven and VCDS.

Took your advice does make it look good

Couldn’t agree more. Having spent £45000 to buy the car , then paying six hundred pounds a year to tax it. - I really couldn’t care less about gaining a few percentage points of reduction in fuel consumption. I certainly wouldn’t consider paying a premium on a tyre to achieve it. I want tyres with enhanced grip, and/or life - not rolling resistance. And anyway, what marginal reduction in fuel cost may be achieved would be eroded the moment I get a bit giddy down the country B roads I’m fortunate enough to have around my neck of the woods.

Thank you to both. I dove back from Lincolnshire yesterday at night - journey of all the types of roads! Detours, A roads, B roads, uphill, downhill and Motorways. Matrix lights are amazing, although I got flashed a couple of times - at least I think it was me! Adaptive CC was also very good, I was trying it out on the M1 and it worked well. It also still looks remarkably clean after the journey, my Mk 3 is filthy. Now to dig into the manuals again, and learn a bit more!

You will get warnings of the clutch failing. You can eke the life out by driving carefully.If you are towing a caravan then your priorities might be different . I ran a Passat Diesel and an Octavia diesel to similar mileages with no clutch problems.

Clutches rarely fail without some warning beforehand. Often once they show the first sign of slipping you might get another 10K out of it if you are careful

I had a similar problem with my 2000 BMW 740 Sport a few years ago. Broken front spring replaced with a standard item which made the car sit lop-sided. Garage told me that the "Sport" springs were only available in pairs,so they got the standard one without asking me. When I gently "blew my top" at them for not asking me, they had the car back and changed both fronts for the proper items only charging for the parts, including the refund for the wrong one. In your case, they have clearly fitted the wrong spring / strut assemblies, front and back. Take measurements of the ride height of your mate's car, centre of the wheel to the lowest point of the wheelarch, and compare that to the measurements on your "repaired" car; there will be a significant difference. Present those to the service manager and tell them to sort it..... If you still have the sales brochure for your car, it will state the vRS suspension is 15mm lower than standard but it only actually quotes overall height. You mention in the original post that it was a "major franchise EH"; is that a Skoda franchise or other manufacturer? If it's a Skoda franchise we need to know so as to avoid in future....

I will make sure I get a full analysis report when the Kodiaq goes in over the coming week(s) when the vehicle is booked in. If 'my situation' is unique or out of normal operating circumstances, it will be interesting if the route taken is an engine replacement....... obviously suggesting the calculations around oil weight and usage are calculated correctly.