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Not quite VW want you to charge at fixed times, no on demand smart charging. No grid aware charging. Which is the whole point of low EV tariffs to let you use electricity when it’s in surplus wherever that is. Too complex for VW. I’ll be having a word with Octopus though since they’ve specifically leased me a car incompatible with the service they supply and the whole basis on which the car was leased .

It's nit just about purchase price it's also about running costs, which if an owner cannot charge at home or work means public charging - so something needs to be done to make public charging universal throughout the whole UK (allowing the costs of installation to be offset against business taxes would be helpful), and also to control or limit the cost per kWh of public charging (cutting the VAT rate to 5% or even zero rating would be a good start).

You know, I would have loved to have joined in on your Trump thread, but I honestly don't think my heart/bloodpressure could take it.

That's why I used the phrase 'let go' as there seems to be a shift in the Jaguar narrative in this matter in the last few days. It certainly was a terrible rebrand, even if it got everyone talking about Jaguar for a while. It just needs some kn0bhead footballer to go to Mansory and spend a couple of hundred grand on making the car look totally legotastic and who knows, maybe every rich youngster will want one? It is ridiculously long though and it doesn't look like it has much room inside either. Maybe it will sell in Murica once Trump has gone.

…. So cheap electricity is now being treated like 87ron versus 99ron super unleaded? You need more expensive electrons? 🤣🤣

I think the biggest problem is they have killed off the old models 1-2 years before their new strategy. It means the dealerships will die (or become 100% Land Rover), and any loyalty to the brand is likely to be lost (if not on sale, and want new car, going to have to try another brand, and if you like new other brand car, would you bother going back to Jaguar. If new Jaguar is effectively some badge engineered EV from elsewhere, wearing a posh frock (or should that be Batman cape), then will people pay lots just to have it. I fear insufficient numbers will.

My reading of your post is that both you and your wife will be sad to see the Yeti go - and having owned mine since 2013 I can well understand why. I'm now familiar with the sill height issue - my wife, who also has a problem with her back, can only just clear the sill and a friend who frequently travels with us once seated has to lift her leg for her foot to clear the sill. Whilst I'm not yet at the point of considering parting with the Yeti I have been interested in the problems you have been having in finding a suitable replacement. And this lead me to wonder whether it is solely the accessing issue or whether there are other reasons that for you mean it may be the time to make the change; after all with a 15 year old car that day will come. For me when considering a change the sill height will I'm sure be a consideration but also the driving position - the high seats makes getting in and out easy - and the comfort of the seats; I've had cars where after an hour or so a break has been essential to relieve back pain. All of this leads me to wonder whether, if it suited you, there would be a way to practically address you wife's problem so you could delay making a decision and see if anything else comes on the market that meets your needs. At the risk of seeming to have finally lost the plot (and some would say that ship sailed some time ago) would a low step help your wife in (and out?) of the car, something that could be easily stowed in the boot or behind the seat? The other possibility that occurred to me, watching my friend lifting her leg to swing her foot into the car (she doesn't seem to have a problem getting out) would be some sort of strop that would help your wife lift her foot without putting unnecessary strain on her back. Again, at the risk of being considered "different", these are made as dog tugs but the larger sizes could be wide enough to easily get a foot in and out and long enough without having to bend and hurt her back whilst helping to lift the foot. Realistically a new car may be the only option but perhaps something to think about even to help over the next couple of months or so whilst waiting for the replacement car - they are around £5-£10 in the usual places. If you do move on from the Yeti I'll be sorry to see you go but then on the positive side I'll be one step closer to being the longest serving member on this forum still with his original Yeti.

Another attempt with another pair of used parts. This time with "Product origin assurances for the purchase" This time is going to be the last time, no matter the result.

The name "Jaguar" I guarantee will continue. Just like MG does, Lotus, and any number of motoring IPs But "Jag" as we know it? Probably not. They went down some odd path with that last promotion. A pink car aimed at a demographic that doesn't buy Jags, which makes some sense if you're trying to reach a new market. Except they aimed everything at that demographic and they seemed to miss that the people they were marketing at don't buy cars much and couldn't afford a Jag anyway. what is "Jag", pipe slippers and V8s? What use is a rep for V8s in a world of EVs? Performance is pretty meaningless now. All EVs are fast really. Some are really fast. But an electric motor is an electric motor. You've lost all the sparkle around superchargers, turbos, multipoint injection. I've not seem nay attempts to jazz up electric motors with the same technowhizzery. I guess a motor is magnets and coils. And having a better majnet or a better coil is just not interesting outside of the electrical engineering and physics fraternity. I did wonder if it was a "no such thing as bad publicity" stunt, it certainly got people talking about Jag although they sounded more like eulogies. .

So there is going to be cars built using greener steel & materials, energy etc, and smaller cars / EV,s that will mean credits for the manufacturers. More manipulation of the figures as happens now with partnering and buying credits from EV only manufacturers. Smoke and mirrors and kidology as usual for the EU manufacturers. A proper version of the WLTP would be a good start as far as showing how much energy the BEV,s will use to do journeys in European weather / seasons would be 'simply clever'.

Hello everyone. New Skoda Superb owner here. Hope to contribute

Okay, so I keep banging on about “you should only fit Panasonic batteries to your VAG key fobs”, well my older daughter reported having trouble after replacing the battery on her SEAT Leon Cupra (non KESSY) key fob - now it doesn’t work, so she had to use the other key fon. I said just to leave it and I’d try to work out what the problem was. With old battery fitted when you press any of the buttons you get a “good solid” flash from the key’s LED but the battery voltage is down to 2.9V. With the new again Panasonic CR2025, battery voltage 3.3V, pressing the buttons all you get is a short flicker! I’d think that this new Panasonic battery is faulty, probably ended up with high internal resistance. I’m just reporting this here in case someone else ends up in this situation, so before replacing a key fob battery, check what the LED’s response to a key press is, then compare that to what you now have with the new battery. I’m assuming here that some people do actually replace their key battery BEFORE it has failed.

It was over 30 years ago that all EU countries agreed to work towards a harmonised standard of 230V. The UK was allowed to adopt a tolerance of -6%/+10% instead of -10%/+10%, the UK DNOs are finally proposing that the UK also adopt the -10% lower tolerance. Proposed Changes to UK Mains Voltage Limits Explained

Hi. I’m afraid I cannot help you with this detail as I didn’t end up modifying mine. A good local garage should be able to advise you on this.

There is but when it comes to other manufacturers I’m not sure whether the engine codes carry over or if they have their own (but would think they would). I have looked and it’s a bit of a mind field to navigate if I’m honest.

Hello everyone. I'm very pleased to be a member of this forum. I'm from Poland and recently became the owner of a Fabia III 1.0 TSI with 95 horsepower. I'm currently looking to modify the car a bit. I've already made some modifications. The engine has been chip-tuned and now has 126 horsepower and 240 Nm. I've already found a lot of useful information on the forum. Best regards to everyone. Łukasz (Luke) 😊

Hi all, I have recently purchased a 2016 Skoday Yeti 1.2 petrol SE TSI. So far so good. I replaced the touchscreen in the headset (Bolero) and alll working as it should now. Next task is to see if I can load Apple Carplay, just waiting fo the OBD2 adapter to arrive. To say I am a proud owner is an understatement. Great to be part of the community.

I may be wrong but the car will have crash sensors that can cut fuel/deploy airbag etc during a colision. Maybe the impact on the kerb with the full on braking has activated the fuel shut off. You could get it scanned as there may well be codes relating to crash sensors stored. Alasdair

This is Arduino module that works with CAN bus(not LIN) and does not work correctly. The Travel Assist button for some reason triggers View. Double-clicking OK also triggers View. From the factory, this is how it works on the FL: Bottom left arrow - Menu Right arrow - View So, if you’re gonna retrofit TravelAssist, then it’s not possible with Arduino CAN module. E.g. for mid FL Superb(07.2019 - 07.2020) Travel Assist can be easily activated, just coding More details:

All cars will last as long as someone is prepared to pay to repair it.

2022 VRS, Stage 1, full Maxton kit, H&R Springs, Full Forge intake, Drilled disc ceramic pads. Wheels, TCU Map & Custom map to follow.

With cars that have fuzzy(funky?) logic in the DSG, the plan tends to be each regular driver has their own key. I’d think after getting caught out like this, from a retired test engineer’s point of view, removing the battery from your only other available key fob when about to use the car or later, would not be the smartest plan. I’ve seen “experts” taking working kit apart to fixing failed kit - with “job stopped” happening. I’m just generalising here!

I still haven't gone for wheel alignment! 🤐 Planning to do that on Friday morning so will confirm then. Yes I have a alu subframe however a few guys downunder have installed to a steel subframe aswell. I did change top mounts a few months for some OEM passats one, nothing fancy but i do have some which allows me to change the camber by +/- 0.8 which i didnt fit. Yeah the Superpros ones are ridiculously expensive compared to this. This is OEM plus mod!

You are spot on, this thing alone creates a multilayered society. Could you imagine the reaction of everybody if the situation was reversed and it was the ICE owners who were able to fill up at home on fuel at rock-bottom prices? Yes, I know that would be ridiculous, but here is the rub, ICE drivers have to go to a filling station to refuel. Do you suppose that there would be so many BEV cars on the roads today if they also had to go to a public charger to charge their cars and pay a similar price to that of fossil fuels?

I personally would change the oil on my DQ381 at 40k and the filter, which is on similar location but pointing forward(horizontally), not up(vertically) like on DQ250.

It's the difference between being a believer and a pessimist. You've said (about the glove-box light) "The bulb is constantly lit but extinguishes when the car is locked using the fob", but my pessimistic view is "The bulb is constantly lit but SHOULD extinguish when the car is locked using the fob". I considered the Roomster's glove-box light to have no value to me, so I removed its bulb to ensure it could not stay continuously illuminated. I find a boot-light useful and it's easy enough to confirm that it goes off when the hatchback 'lid' is closed (So far it has!) (In fact, as it was easy enough to do, I replaced all the Hyundai i20's original interior light bulbs with LED equivalents.)

Typically it worked fine last night. But it did update again yesterday. Still not talkng to the app on the phone so we need to go out to the car to see what the charge level is. the Ohme app guesses the taken charge % based on how much power the car has taken and the known battery capacity. So we don't get "Car 70% charged" we get "topped up by 7%" and nothing from the VW app. I made the joke that they needed an IT tech not a mecahnic, they didn't laugh and said it was true. If I could get the logs from the car I could look myself but it's all hidden.

I think Jaguar had a confusing range with it SUVs. What is an i-Pace and e-Pace or similar names? The saloons and F-types were its strength and traditional market. I hope it survives but competing with Bentley narrows its position in the market.

ID3 into VW for 'investigation'. Startling how disparaging the staff were towards VW. Basically they all hated their cars. Hated the tech (EU enforced but works poorly), hated the software, hated the apps, hated working on them. Universal comment (I agree with) "We just want something simple that works, too much tech now".

I have turned my dynamic indicators off on a 2023 SIII. It is Rollenblinken not Richtungsblinken you have to inactivate.

Had a friend who bought a 1.9tdi cheap as it wouldnt run right at low revs. Some previous owner had had a go at boosting power but it ended badly and the car wouldnt run right. He got it put back to factory settings and it was spot on. Tell tale sign was loads of black soot from exhaust and it would drive but only at full power plus mpg and emissions were shocking. Hope changing the MAF helps. Alasdair

Some more info here: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/SFD So it looks like your 2023 car will have SFD but not SFD2.

Here’s part of a conversation I had with a seller. I already have the Advancer Pro dongle which can do many things, I might just stick with that.

Yes, the old battery was agm and it coded to fleece

Looking to replace my much beloved Subaru Legacy Spec.b I think I'm going to need two cars, and one of them is going to have to have a nice petrol engine with at least 6 cylindes, and probably only two seats. Which leaves me with a relatively tight budget to buy an estate, one of the options I'm looking at the mk3 Octavia VRS, either in economical TDI form, or in petrol form with the performance pack, both with the manual, rather than the DSG. I'm also considering a Superb, in 2.0 TDI 170 4x4 guise, and an F31 BMW 320 Xdrive, B8 Audi A4 Quattro Avant, 2.0 manual, in either petrol or diesel. I know that the petrol VRS is the most fun and the most powerful and the lightest, and so quickest in the dry, and the diesel is the most economical. I intend to tow occasionally, so I'm considering the Superb 4x4 too, given that I'll have the sportscar for thrills. How do they compare to the BMWs and Audis? My experience with Haldex (admittedly the older generation) wasn't impressive, and so I'm leaning towards the diesel VRS, at least of the Skodas. It has nearly identical power to the BMWs, it's a bit lighter, but of course it's only FWD. I know the Skoda is hands down the more practical of the two, but which is the best to drive? And by that I mean, which is most fun? (I know, a 2.0L diesel estate car isn't designed for thrills, but hey) Note that I'm aware there is a VRS TDI 4x4, but that it is DSG only. Likewise the 3.0L BMWs/Audis, they are automatic only too, I insist on a manual) I'm also considering getting only one car, in which case it'll be an Audi S4 avant, in manual, 3.0L supercharged V6 form) So, anyone who's driven these cars, particularly the diesel VRS and the 320d xdrive, as those are the two I'm currently favouring, I'd be keen to hear from you

Hi @JR RS, Long time since I've been able to give you a tip. Usually, YOU give me tips. 😁 Once spring is removed (and brake fluid tank cap is off), you just need a lever (e.g.: a flat screw driver) to push brake caliper back for 1 or 2mm, to create a small play to be able remove both brake pads. Then a flat piece of wood and a G-clamp allow you to push the brake piston back very easily. If needed, have a look to the 'How to' I've posted in the Kodiaq forum. 😉 I've seen no difference in the process between Superb Mk3 and Kodiaq Mk1 to replace rear brake pads, including getting in and out of the maintenance mode of the EPB. Take care!

I think the message is just bluetooth wanting to pair, as @NottsIan alludes to. Just accept the pairing rather than trying to cancel. If it then launches Android Auto, just use the Skoda icon to return to the inbuilt system. There are also start-up options in Android Auto on your phone.

AGM battery should be adapted (coded) into BCM as 'Fleece'

You won't be paying 'road tax', that went years ago. You will be paying VED 'vehicle excise duty' and this 'tax' does not go directly to the upkeep of the roads.

Yes, also the tensioner, it seems like the bit VW Group supply is just the new belt, so there is no kits available from VW Group as this task is not a regular service item. So, as well as getting the belt changed, you should also be making sure that your garage is "creating" a kit to do that job, ie add in a tensioner. When I got the cambelt changed on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI at a proper VAG Indie, the parts listed included a tensioner as a line item. We tend to expect maybe 15 years out of a car, so I considered that at the 10 years and 55K miles point, now was the time to pay to get that job done to avoid worrying about "what if" or "if only I had". The guy that takes the money said, as I left, "that will be you for another 5 years"!

As the decline in performance is gradual you will seem to think it is working fine, when actually it is not. A lot of owners also do not use the system frequently, when they should do, as the gas has lubricants added that keep the seals in order. If you do not use it the seals dry out and you loose the gas. The compressors draw on the engine is also minimal and will effect mpg no more than driving with the window open, probably less, so a false economy not to use it. I always run the car with mine on and stick to a 3 year re-gas. I did this with cars prior to the Yeti and now with my Audi A3. When I'm in France in the summer and it hits high 30's, even low 40's c the car is nice and cold. The cost advantage lies with the Yeti owner over more modern cars when it comes to a re-gas as you are faced with a £60/70 bill as opposed to a £120/140 bill due to the different gas used in post 2019 ? cars. Do yourselves a favour, use it, re-gas every 3 years and make the most of what you have in a great car. Colin

The 2023 Toyota Corolla Touring Sports 1.8 Hybrid 5dr estate with a sill height to ground of 375mm would seem to be a good fit for you. Excellent reviews and plenty of room inside. In terms of swapping an older Yeti I wouldn’t give up on trying a trade-in when you find a replacement. Even older Yeti’s are in demand and as you have all papers etc. it is surely worth getting a trade in valuation - saves a load of hassle what with time wasters, test drives, finance etc. I ended up trading in my Yeti when I eventually swapped it (still one of best cars I have owned) and probably lost about £300-£400 over what I could have got privately BUT all I had too do was drive it to the dealers, sign a few papers and drive away in the new car. No hassle, no worries.

I have 381 in my 2.0 TDI 150 superb wagon, it will definitely be subject to an oil and filter change at between 40-50k. I would much sooner have the piece of mind that it’s been done to be honest

Couldn’t agree more. Having spent £45000 to buy the car , then paying six hundred pounds a year to tax it. - I really couldn’t care less about gaining a few percentage points of reduction in fuel consumption. I certainly wouldn’t consider paying a premium on a tyre to achieve it. I want tyres with enhanced grip, and/or life - not rolling resistance. And anyway, what marginal reduction in fuel cost may be achieved would be eroded the moment I get a bit giddy down the country B roads I’m fortunate enough to have around my neck of the woods.

Good afternoon all, We've just bought a '72 Superb Estate with the power tailgate. It's perfect, aside from missing a reverse camera. We've contacted our local dealer who say there isn't a retrofit kit for this model; they apparently only go up to 2018. If an official Skoda retrofit kit isn't available, is it possible to source used parts from wreckers/eBay and code them in? If so, would anyone happen to know the part numbers I need to look out for? I've seen a few kits on Ali* but they don't look compatible with the power tailgate. Pic for anyone interested. Cheers, Andy

Just curious, but what is your annual mileage ?

The 5 year / 50,000 miles Cambelt Change in the UK with a TSI was crazy, even with a ACT or COD. VW Group put out the Press Release / TPI in June 2023. Listen to them or make up your own mind how long you want to keep the Cambelt fitted. As much as for 150,000 miles / 15 years if you want. £850-£1,200 is a lot of money to spend out. But if it is peace of mind, then go ahead.

if u have found a good replacement pair - its doable. its just the hassle of removing the bumper to remove the headlights, and then finding a workshop that will recode/reparameterize the Headlight module so it pairs with the replaced headlights. the bi-xenon headlights on the mk3 Superb r good, if aimed correctly. when i first got mine many many years ago, i replaced the factory xenon bulbs with Phillips xTremeVision Gen2 bulbs. this was a nice improvement over stock. I then swapped out my normal Bi-xenon headlights for SLA Bi-Xenon headlights. last year i replaced the xTremeVision D3S bulbs with LED D3S bulbs - another nice improvement over stock. this is the video of my headlights when it had the xTremeVision bulbs.