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oh yes. It is really important you tell the car what type of battery you have and replace it with. The alternator outputs different voltage/charging profiles dependant on what you tell the car you have installed.

Got rid of the last persistent bit of lingering cigarette smell, when looking over my shoulder. It was lingering around the plastic headrest post holes, and I’ve never changed the position of the headrest…I moved it up to discover both metal posts covered in cigarette smoke residue! Just done a 100 mile trip and no more smell!

Well, that 350 KW and the 400 KW is much much more than the 22 KW that you was talking about to begin with, but you are missing the point I fear when you try to compare the UK with Europe etc, we are not ONLY lagging behind in the charger network, but we are seriously lagging in the generation stakes, which is the very point that I was trying to illustrate when mentioned the amount of power that just 2,700 32-tonne juggernauts (Turners of Soham fleet, only) would require to recharge their batteries overnight. These trucks will not want to take a risk on partially charging their trucks because of operational factors that are likely to impact their daily routines, and destinations and routes can and do change to reflect local circumstances, and the last thing they want, and indeed you would want, is to come across a number of these trucks stuck on the motorways, dual carriageways, etc., because they miscalculated the amount of energy required for their working day. You may want to take risks in your car, but they would not. A simple car breakdown in the wrong place causes enough problems to the traffic flow; think of the consequences of one of these trucks doing the same. For example: Based on data regarding the UK's largest logistics operators, the top 15 transport and logistics companies operate a combined fleet of over 35,000 to 40,000 HGVs (Heavy Goods Vehicles). Key industry leaders contributing to this total include: DHL Supply Chain: One of the largest, frequently topping fleet lists with thousands of trucks. Wincanton: Operates over 3,500 vehicles. Culina Group: A major player following the acquisition of Eddie Stobart, Great Bear, and others. GXO Logistics: A leading operator, with trailer fleets exceeding 5,000 in some reports. Royal Mail Group: Operates a very large,4,000+ trailer/HGV fleet. Kinaxia Logistics: Operates approximately 920 vehicles. Other top firms in the top 15-30 rankings contributing to this, as identified by CILT(UK) and Motor Transport, include XPO, DPD, Kuehne + Nagel, Turners (Soham), Maersk, and Eddie Stobart. Context on Fleet Sizes: There are over 530,000 licensed HGVs in Great Britain. The top 1,000+ fleets in the UK collectively hold operator licences for over 300,000 trucks. The top 25 trailer fleets in the UK are responsible for well over 100,000 trailers I'm not talking large fleets with small to meduim sized vans and last mile delivery vans but proper full sized trucks like those below. If the electric dream actually does continue and not get derailed, then I have no doubt that the UK will get there in the fullness of time

It is hugely important. As an example, my father had an incorrectly coded the battery on his 2011 A3. For the next year, we had random issues - intermittent no horn, wipers, central locking or cruise control. After taking everything apart, we finally figured out it was because the battery had been coded in wrong. First and last time we went to Halfords. The car is smart. Very smart. It needs to know what is happening with the battery!

Good news - Skoda warranty actually works. The repairs were authorised and approved. Skoda Customer Services have also been really helpful too. Car ready to collect next week.

There is something far wrong in the UK. Sir Keir Starmer messing about in China and getting a lower tariff on whisky, fair enough. (Single Malt Whisky they don't care about blends.) the Prime Minister or Energy Minister or Trade & Industry are saying nothing about the 2 Wind Turbine yards that need approved in Scotland, Ayrshire and on the Moray Firth. Seemingly fears of Spying etc. If the yards are not built where they want in Scotland they will be built someplace else in Europe and then transported to British Waters and erected anyway.

Ya...all good info to pop into the first post. Agree, needs changing. I think you can just change but to optimise life of new battery, recode or at least tell the car its a new battery. I think all you really need is to change serial no and make sure capacity (Ah or CCA) is correctly entered. We don't know what your background info is and often when someone says, my car needs a new battery, a good diagnostic mechanic will ask l, how do you figure. Plenty of punters say my car cranks for ages but won't start, must be the battery. Or, my car won't start, what could it be....well...kinda anything....

I finally kicked the habit after 45 years some 10 years ago. I was never a heavy smoker but a combination of willpower & 0% nicotine vapes got the job done. I'm off the the vapes as well now. When I was smoking I always had the drivers window open to exhaust the smoke & ash. Not sure if it made a huge difference because smokers can't seem to smell smoke!! Then my company banned us from smoking in company cars so I had to stop smoking in the car which hastened my decision to pack it in & get a private car to avoid company car tax. Only downside of not smoking was the weight gain, due to an enhanced appetite!! Not sure I could even afford to smoke these days!!

First time starting a project thread, bear with me... Heard about this Roomster not too far from me that might be heading for a scrapyard, and decided to try to acquire it. That went well and it came to my place this last weekend. Early 2012, 1.2 TSI, 5sp manual, 158k miles on the clock. This is it, just after being washed. Paintwork is far from pristine, but that's not something I care much about. I'd looked up the spec via the reg plate before seeing pics of the car, so there were one or two nice surprises when I first saw pics, then the car in real life. Factory build sheet suggested no roof rails, nor trailer hitch. Both were in fact fitted, presumably by supplying dealer since this was bought new by the previous owner. Trailer hitch is the detachable type, with 13 pin electrics connector and adaptor for 7-pin electrics. Super handy! Had to swap out the alternator to get it charging and driveable, battery was also factory original and not well at all following loss of charging. OSF tyre had nasty inner shoulder wear, without anything similar being apparent on the other side, so that needs some investigation promptly. Partner told me the high level brakelight is inop. Nearside mirror adjustment isn't happening. May well be a split outer CV boot on OS too, but hard to be sure as the whole engine is rather oily externally, and everything needs a good clean-up to see where any fluids are escaping from. Everything else seems to work, though the handbrake only slightly! Lots more to say, but for now: New battery fitted last night after the external clean. Interior needs a lot of cleaning up; hoping a local youth may be enticed into helping with that, possibly. Engine sounds rather nice and quiet after two seconds of mild rattle from cold-start. Seems to go just fine, but economy not great on journey home. Quite excited to bring it back to full health. 😁 I shall no doubt have many questions.

Could have tagged this on to an existing thread but as the tyre specific ones aren't about the CC 3s specifically and others that mention tyres aren't really about this make and model's performance. Anyway, with that out of the way...... Had a set of CrossClimate 3s fitted today. Ordered online from Blackcircles and fitted locally by a tyre fitting place. What a difference over the crap Bridgestones that they replaced. I felt the ride, handling and noise were improved. I appreciate that part of that improvement will be down the the greater tread depth and relatively softer rubber but no question I'm happy with my experience of them so far. One thing that is not subjective like the aspects above is the grip. I commented in the recent "Judder" thread that the problem might have been the tyres. I talked about my experience with the Bridgestones fitted to my wife's MY23 and my own MY 22 Karoq. After I left the fitter I tried to reproduce the spinning/juddering when pulling out of junctions and just couldn't. If you're in the market for new 'oops I think you could do a lot worse than these.

you sir are a legend thank you! i replaced the second one at the bottom checked fuses and was then lost as i didnt want to start pulling the loom apart if i can just test the wires was thinking about just mapping it out but want to repair it

Good for you on resisting the temptation to start! I puked up after my first cigarette at around 14 years old...and was hooked...the perfect drug... I was trying unsuccessfully to give up, but thankfully I met my wife 26 years ago...she batted her eyelids and told me I didn't have to give up if I didn't want to...and I gave up overnight 😅 Have a great weekend all! Cheers, Nick

The best habit about smoking is to never start! When I was proposed my 1st cirgaret at around 11 yeras old, I immediatly tought to my dad's big hands with his thick fingers 😱 and I just said: No, thanks! I thank him so much! 😘😁 Good job @CubbyQ!

I dumped the factory fit Bridgestone's at 9k miles for Crossclimate 2s to my MY20 21 reg 1.5tsi DSG, as they were appalling! It was the best decision I have made about tyres. I echo the thoughts already expressed - cornering, comfort, ride, and wet, dry and cold weather handling are vastly better. The rears have now done 39k miles and the fronts I changed again after they'd done 22k miles. All tyres have plenty of tread left. Pity is I have 19" crater alloys and Crossclimate 3s aren't available in 225R19 so I'm thinking Crossclimate 3 sports when I change. Best fitted price I found recently was £400 for 2, £800 for 4 fully fitted. (lapinou would be a good French word for bunny!)

The only correct answer, if you’re concerned about handling and performance, is the Michelin Pilot Sport 5. Pilot Sport 4 don’t wear very well, and Pilot Sport 4S/S5 are totally overkill. Conti Premium Contact/Sport Contact are very good too - on par with the Pilot Sport series. I haven’t had good experiences with Pirelli - rather poor IMO. Bridgestone have been equally poor. Goodyear Eagle F1/Asy 6 have had good reviews, along with the budget Uniroyal Rainsport 5. They aren’t the cheapest in 225/35R19. Maybe consider going up to 235/35R19 - they’re more common, so are cheaper. Similarly, there is only one correct answer for where to fit new tyres. Regardless of the drive type, new tyres should always go on the rear. Why? Understeer is correctable - oversteer, often, is not.

That is correct, however there is a bit more to it than that. The profile of a tyre is in relation to the width - so a 225/35 will be much lower profile than a 285/35. It’s a percentage of the width. This is important as most people are tempted to make more than one change when swapping wheels. For example, they’ll go from a 7.5J wheel paired with a 225/40R18 to an 8.5J with a 245/35R19. This would result in a 2.8% increase in diameter, compared with the 0.3% increase of going to a 225/35R19 on the same wheel. This is why it’s important to stick to the recommended setups above. If running a setup such as the 245 profile above, you’d find that the speedo would read 70mph at 71mph, rather than 68mph at 70mph. This isn’t a huge deal, but you don’t want to stray too far from “default” setups - it’ll upset the ABS system (TPMS, TC, ESP, etc).

@moldaguus there is no SD card solution for your unit - it works ONLY for OEM sat nav units (Amundsen) and you have non-nav unit (Bolero) which requires soldering. If you are interested pls let me know - although I must have it on my bench in Poland. @Gleni69 I sent a download link to 0253 in PM. 1. format SD (best max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

Unfortunately I am not able to help in this case

Thanks again @Breezy_Pete ; Brembo Prime Line discs and pads ordered from Parts In Motion - £128 including free delivery! Had budgeted a lot more seeing the 340mm discs are £140 on their own! Cheers, Nick

Just picked up my new company car last week, over 1000km later and i,m loving the comfort and luxury. First time in a long while getting an estate car. The space is amazing.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help, I think I am now getting to grips this systems on the car and understand a lot more than I did. Cheers

That's a well calibrated set of eyes you have. 😆

I wouldn't think changing the rim sizes would make much difference to the speedometer? The overall diameter of the rim and tyre is pretty much the same. As the rim size reduces doesn't the tyre wall profile increase? I may have got this wrong and, if I have, please say. Any difference must be right at the margins. TBH, while the 17" winter rims won't be much for the look of the car, they will compensate with a smoother and quieter ride because tyre sidewall forgiveness makes a real difference.

Asking admin to move this to the MK4 Octavia section.....

OPs original battery could well be EFB - but, if so, replacing with AGM will give better performance, but not especially necessary. Agree that correct adaptation (coding) to the vehicles BCM is important - but actual battery manufacturer is not. Critical battery adaptation information is - Type (AGM (fleece) or EFB. Capacity (Ahrs) Change battery serial number to inform BCM that a new battery has been fitted (this can simply be by changing the last digit of the existing serial number)

I can only help you with this problem: switch the gearbox from D to S and the car will go into hybrid mode even when your infotainment has gone crazy.

You have not said yet what service was done. As I have said, oil service and inspection are separate.

Good news - West End Skoda in Edinburgh have had the car in for the week and eventually come back to me. I have a failed front offside calliper. Sounds like the caliper seals have died. They also found the compressor for the HVAC system also had a major leak. Hopefully all this can be covered by Skoda Warranty.

Packaging - not made for humans. ROFL. Easy mistake to make.

Okay - replacing battery. Firstly; 10 years out of the OE battery - good going. You didn't say which version of the Octavia you have, but generally you need an 096 style battery. Please check before ordering anything. I tend to use BOSCH or VARTA. A7 Varta Dynamic AGM 096 Start Stop Car Battery 12V 70Ah...A7 VARTA Dynamic AGM Car Battery <i>Innovation with Purpose, Premium Experience, Powerful History</i> VARTA was founded in 1887 Germany, and was established fully in 1904 by delivering the first elect Once fitted, you need to tell the car that you have changed battery. You will need ODBEleven or VCDS to do this. The battery manufacturer is important - use VAR (as manufacturer) and AGM (each MY year has slightly different options) as your type. Change the ampage to 70Ah. The car should now start, run, and charge at 14.2V.

Not easy making the decision to stop driving but her health (and safety) comes first 👍 Yeah, don't take anything less than 5K for it. Low miles, new MOT and fresh tyres & battery will make it appealing. An enthusiast will appreciate the low mileage and originality. Door microswitch can be sorted easily enough. Credit for looking after it all this time!

It might be the garage forgot to reset the light. If so you are best returning to the garage that did the servicing work for you. They will be able to reset the light. 5 minute job.

Bought an OBD11 directly from OBD11.Resellers in Australia wanted hundreds more. Turned off fake engine noise and lane keeping. Worth every cent.

The car was not new to the current owner. I can well imagine a car, in particular if on Motability, wearing out a clutch in 19k miles.

Alas, not knowing in detail how the suspension setup is made, it is difficult to tell. Everything depends on what makes the suspension travel "end" in extension - wether is the coil, or the shock. On most of the cars I have worked, the shock is longer than the coil, which means even at full 'drop' you will not be able to release the pressure of the coil. Must detach first the shock, and then you can have the suspension arm "free" which means the top can be released without launching of parts everywhere, which can be very dangerous. On my older Audi C4s the shock is incorporated in the strut, and accessible from the top ... you can even renew shock or upper bushes with the wheels in situ! I think an easy check is to, lacking anyone that has done it who can fill in, to lift one corner and with a breaker bar to "push" further down the suspension ...you kinda get a feeling. Me I would in any case release the shock if possible, I always get a bad feeling when they are at the maximum extension ...

Mine was a Covid car, so guess whatever they had in the VAG parts bin was used to build the thing!

I Retrofit LED OEM Lights in our Octavia 3. If you have no experience, no tool for flashing control units or writing data sets, forget the project. The mechanical conversion isn't the problem, and you can manage the missing wiring, but the programming is a whole other big issue. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533353-retrofit-oem-led-lights-octavia-5e-facelift/

i had this on a mk1 fabia after driving through a flood , not advice but what i did was to turn the car over with the ignition for a brief moment while the car was in gear and handbrake off ,it freed the clutch , once again though not advice

not worth the trouble given the massive task. different wiring - 10-pin (halogen) vs 14-pin (HID). u need 3x leveling sensors - 2 on each front axle and one on the left rear axle. the headlight modules will b different - 1x AFS plus 2x LCM (Slave) modules. 2x power ballasts. headlight washers - which requires additional wiring harness and piping to the front bumper. as a result, washer fluid tank is different and larger. coding and parameterization of the HID headlights. from factory, the bi-xenon HID headlights r hooked up to the suspension, steering, ABS and A5 camera (for high beam assist). i would pass......

Try a 2032 as it's a bit thicker. Sounds like loose contacts Mine did the same, just replaced with a 2032 (a good one, so maybe your new battery is flat too) and it worked. Didn't need to recode

100,500 ish miles on it. 2018 plate. Car was serviced by a skoda specialist prior to me pickingup the car.

Going to need it i think, once your on top of it a bit it helps. I'm still finding wet foam sound proofing, just been trying to get fresh air around it when possible, been at work this end of the week. I had the brain wave to line the footwell under the now much dryer carpet and sound proofing with some thick like plastic rubble bags and then lined out under that with news paper. Then can check where its going. Still got the half cover over it and also covering the plenum chamber area now. No idea what's happened on the drivers side as not lift the carpet. Its going into the dealers on Tuesday morning, so see if they can work it out... At least its not house, seems like loads of that going on around the country.

I'll give it a go tomorrow when I've got some cleaner, many thanks

Yes I had a set of Michelin C/C 3 sport fitted last year and the difference is like night and day. Standard tyres from the factory had poor traction and road noise. But I did get 35K out of the Bridgestone's with a some left when I changed them.

No expert but it’s worth what someone willing to pay. It’s easily over 5-6k IMO

ETA: I expect you fully cleaned and lubricated the rails and release mechanism.

The DQ400-e is a 6 Speed Wet Clutch DSG with a filter. Fitted to 1.4 or 1.5 TSI PHEV.s. Not fitted to 1.4 or 1.5 TSI,s or TSI ACTs. non PHEV. DQ400-e DSG,s might have Skoda Dealerships say change at 2nd service as they do with DQ381,s. Total nonsense. ........................ As to DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG,s with no Service Schedule but 2 oils which can be changed. The Filter is in the MCU so not getting changed unless the MCU removed.

Would it be enough and make sense to do additional notches on the outside with a hacksaw?

Ad. 1 /2 Remove the relay. It gives additional delays and might be an issue. Connect power to +12V available when ignition is on, e.g. from the back wiper engine module. This will also solve the nest issue with camer black when going from reverse to front driving. Ad. 3 - yes, but it requires infotainment unit to be upgraded to 04xx Ad. 4

I think only one of these will fit, it needs to match the manufacturer of the original system. Even if you look up with VIN filtering in a genuine parts catalogue like partslink24, you get a comment "Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary". If you would like me to try to look up the part number in case it is possible, tell me the VIN. I think you can establish if the system you have is Denso or Valeo by looking at the label on the blower motor, if there are no more accessible labels than that one. The substance in the header tank of "mit silikat'-marked tanks is silicates, not silica, and the function is to replenish levels of these chemicals that are present in the coolant when made, but get depleted during use in the engine, by chemical reactions. Not to absorb moisture, which is plentiful and desirable in coolant.