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One of the my rear B16 damptronic has failed was going trying to buy a pair of rears but it was cheaper to buy a kit. Plus our roads here are crap and even at the highest setting my exhaust just clears road bumps so getting a bit of height will help and comfort. Also the B6 setup is slightly cheaper (£1500 v £1800), Ideally wanted to try the KW DTC kit but they are way too expensive at £2500. As long as the B6s can handle 600bhp and loads of torque I'll be happy! 😁

So the first thing I did was check that fuse. It was good then and still is. However it was in the wrong slot. I'm trying to think of a scenario where I'm not to blame but the facts seem to refute the possibility. It was the cam sensor after all, and even my poor reader managed to erase the codes and remove the error lights. Thank you very much for your help. I will be posting again soon on another issue so don't go too far....

Fitted some AliExpress special Mud flaps today. Fitted on with original screws. Just had to add a small Bolt passenger side rear as there isn’t an under tray exhaust side. Fitment on the rears is very good. Fronts have a little gap. Will look to drill and add another screw to pull it in a bit to close the gap hopefully. Apologies on the state of the vehicle. I e done over 1000 miles this week in typical British weather. I did clean where the flaps mount though so I wasn’t trapping any dirt against the body.

So, Today we started installing and wiring the radar sensors. Since it's the facelift rear end, we installed the OEM bracket for the 2Q0 radar sensors. At the same time, we installed the tow hitch. The mechanical part is mostly finished; the cables are in the trunk and all that's left is to route and connect everything inside the car. Coding is also required, of course. A few photos.

Hi Everyone I'm new to the forum and I'm in need of some advice. I have a Skoda Kodiaq 2019 2.0 TDI 4x4 150hp. The haldex service is due and I wanted to purchase a different brand of haldex oil. What would you guys recommend? I was thinking of liqui moly or Febi. Also what else do I need for the service? I'm getting the work done from a specialist independent garage. I just need to get all the parts. The mechanic said get 1 litre of the haldex oil but they're all 850ml. I Would really appreciate your advice . Thanks

No water marks 🤞. I use non-acid wheel cleaner (Bilt-Hamber Auto Wheel cleaner). Good stuff.

I'm running 19x8.5 ET35 with 245/40r19 tyres.

I think cabin noise can also depend on what wheel/tyre combination you have. Obviously bigger wheels with lower profile tyres will tend to be somewhat noisier, but the brand/model of tyre seems to have a big effect - I found the Bridgestone Potenza's to be very noisy, Good Year Eagle F1 less so and now I am using Toyo Proxes Sport and they have been the quietest so far, with great performance.

Saying you think I’m a climate change denier because you don’t like the fact that some companies are going back to platforms that allow for ev and ice since ev sales have not gone to forecast. By the way almost all hydrogen is made from natural gas so in addition to the host of issues hydrogen has as a fuel source it doesn’t escape hydrocarbons.

7 years later...

i have tried them all and it still cuts out maybe not as much but still does it maybe time for a change as my last 3 skoda karoq have all done it

One of the best things you can do for ownership and saving garage visits and costs is to read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' if the paper printed copy is missing from your car then VWŠkoda offer their website for free pdf downloads, put in your VIN. Also to make sure the 12v battery doesn't get too low in charge to upset the computers and have them throw up all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights and issues with the car. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before there's noticeable engine staring delay - you may already know this if you have/had a BMW. 'Owners Manual's' site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

im not thinking of tuning this car up beyond ECU tuning and air filter to be honest. and trust me. the car itself is well taken care of in terms of general service. the only kink it really has is a slightly squeeky suspension lol The topic has been merged with the other topic. Briskoda Admin

dont you worry ;) i know plenty about such things. i was mainly wondering about this specific car and car type.

Other side to my post on the other thread. - https://www.google.com/search?q=1.2+Fabia+MK3+remapping+site:www.briskoda.net HTH.

I've no idea what you know about cars and driving so bear that in mind, but a flip side to what you'll get in Fabia Projects, if you want some (opposite) tips and info on considering car tuning. I'm sure you would agree that the first part of tuning is full and regular timely servicing, maintenance and repairs for the whole car - fiddling with things comes after. Once that is fully sorted you might move on to better lubricants for additional protection margins for the extra push at and/or passed the usual car's parameters. You always sort your brakes first along with the suspension (tyres come into both of those for safety as well as performance), get the geometry checked and sorted and adjusted with any changes you make each time to suspension, wheels/tyres. Always last is anything to do with the engine, check that no changes are required to clutch and transmission from engine changes if you're going far with the engine. The engine should never be beyond anything else on the car, you want all in balance. Many "improvements" can turn out to be not necessarily so in real world of (legal) driving on public roads particularly if they take the overall balance out of the car. Modern cars are already generally oversized with wheels and tyres and over lowed and over-stiff suspension can often on some roads make things worse rather than better. Here's the bit you would won't like, the best tuning you can do is driver training, the benefits can also transferred at no extra cost to future cars and sometimes negate the need for more extreme tuning on the car.

thanks! ill take it into consideration. ill also post on the forum you suggested. maybe ill get some more info from there ;)

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your Fabia MK3. It is a reliable and practical car, especially for daily use. Coming from BMW, you may notice it is simpler, but maintenance is usually easier and cheaper. This community is very helpful, so feel free to ask if you need tips or advice.

garage said it was a faulty ignition coil, replaced all three and its driving much better, think the car had been slowly losing power for a while, one of them had failed....think they said it was corroded........I'll report back in a couple of months

Have been waiting for a a bit of dry weather to hardwire my dash cam - thanks to an old thread found on here, I can confirm that fuse 47 is switched with ignition/engine running.

Fairly certain it’s a nope

The active TPMS (with sensors in the wheel) is optional for the Mk4 Superb. Most do not have it (and use the ABS sensors).

Hopefully its as simple as a cam sensor etc. Think you can check chain for stretch with VCDS. A bit above my comfort zone but read its engine measuring block 93 and should read above -5 anything below ie -6 etc would point to stretched chain. Thats with car upto operating temp. Alasdair

Thanks for your comments on fuel economy. There are so many variables but I did notice an improvement when I switched from Continental to the Goodyear. Most of my mileage is long trips, often a high proportion of steady speed on dual carriageways and motorways.

For me it don't seem to make much difference to fuel consumption my average has stayed at about 37 mpg but its all short runs I do in winter with 8k a year total

@SteveTheElder I didn't find a great difference in fuel economy between the OE Bridgestones and the CrossClimate 2s I had fitted at 8,900 miles. I'm on 47,700 now but have moved house since and am doing a much greater proportion of short journeys. Long term I have achieved 42.5mpg, but get 50mpg on a long motorway run (1.5tsi engine and DSG gearbox.)

I think if you read down the posts in the following thread it covers what you might want to know. If you have hand crank winders at the rear, as with my wife's car, then I know you can't get open/close off the remote key fob because that requires a different bit(s) for the windows control I forget what they might call the pack for this, then you would need to program all in. HTH.

I'll update it like your's later, thanks for the tip I've also changed the year

I know it's a mk3 It's like the one in the picture. I'll try to search the forums about the window thing

The factory air intake takes cold air in directly from just behind the grille, so I don't think changing to a "cold air intake" will be of any noticeable benefit. The only time I've found a cold air intake to be of benefit was on a Citroen C1 where the factory intake ended inside the bonnet directly above the exhaust manifold so in summer it took in less dense hot air. Adding a reinforced flexible hose to a convenient hole in the grille noticeably improved performance on hot summer days.

Same here, I check my tyre pressures regularly anyway. I have just purchased a second hand set of 17" alloys for winter tyres. Tyres are my next purchase.

Thanks for your reply @nta16 but i'm pretty sure it's a mk3 as it's from 2014 I'm not sure where you've got the intel that's it's from 2011.

Any tyre fitter won't be disappointed, it's easy to damage them when replacing tyres. My experience of the Skoda/VAG system is that it works well.

Only learnt the other day that Elroq stands for electric Karoq

Unfortunately your unit does NOT support CarPlay at all, you have to replace at least infotainment reader. I can deliver such unit - pls let me know if you are interested so I caan share more info in PM.

Have you checked fuse 28 (10 Amp rated)?

Hi high oil level on a modern Diesel is often a sign of failed regeneration of exhaust particle filter. This leads to diesel in engine oil and increased oil level and corresponding reduction of engine lubrication which will damage engine if ignored. Best change oil and take note of new oil level and monitor. Get someone to carry out a scan of fault codes.

Well, all sorted now and I was only charged £168 including battery, fitting and re-coding. Zaph

@Awesam 20-267537 is correct one

Hello, welcome to the forum. If your TPMS system does not display actual tyre pressures, it sounds to me as if it is the 'Indirect Type' - I.e. it uses the vehicles ABS system to monitor individual wheel rotation speeds and, therefor, pressures.

I always assumed that was a design feature of the sporty models?

Hi everyone, I haven't posted a topic in a while. After 12 years, it was time to replace the Xenon bulbs. I wanted more white beam instead of factory yellow. Philips has DS3 Xenon White Vision Gen 2 5000K, and it's perfect! No coding needed, no errors. The beam is much better outside the city at night. Here is a quick video on how to replace yours. No tools necessary.