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It could also be a leaky injector/injectors. Alasdair

Lovely (full) Moon this evening....

Problem resolved, the bonnet lock sensor had not reset after opening and closing the bonnet. Opened the bonnet and a firm closing restored normal operations of the wipers. will just have to watch what happens when opening and closing the bonnet.

Repaired the rear vent sliders today using parts from AliExpress. https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ez54g1O Slightly more brushed than bright chrome surround but they don’t look too out of place and work well. You have to fully dismantle the unit to be able to slot everything in. All done in about 10 minutes.

It is a Maxton splitter actually. Managed to fit it without removing the front bumper by way of using some rivnuts. I've used rivnuts before but completely forgot about them until someone on here mentioned them to me. Cheers JR RS for that reminder. You know it never occurred to me to maybe switch around the wheels. Hmmmmmmmm? Mine doesn't actually ... well not as bad as it had new anyhow. I dropped the suspension 30mm onto some genuine Eibach springs. It's still comfortable but it rides flatter around corners and it's not as wallowy. I've kept it all these years purely because no matter what other cars I had at the same time I still always appreciated just how honest it is. It does nothing brilliantly, but it does everything rather well and without fuss.

Wheels spacers 20mm rear, 15mm front. Debadged the bloody awful L&K logos. They look like they belong on a violin or Italian menu. Front splitter fitted. Car's done now. Happy with how it looks. It's alright for a luxury bus. Even getting used to the PHEV aspect of it. The 19" alloys do look well but I agree they do compromise the soft ride quality a little. I just have to keep an eye out for potholes I suppose. It's been a while since I've been around these forums, so hello all, new and old. I still have a mint condition 1.9TDi 130bhp Mk1 Superb with only 65k on it. I keep meaning to sell it but never get around to it because I still have a big soft spot for it. I've had other cars in the meantime, but this one still remains in the stables. I remapped it and it's running around the 165bhp mark these days but still returns 50+mpg. Honestly it does everything pretty well and I'm appreciating the ease of it more these days with all newer cars having everything electric or "smart". I lowered the suspension and threw some 18" RS4 alloys on it even. Added a from splitter to that too but honestly I need the garage space back these days. Will be sad to see it go. I might get around to getting it gone sometime soon, we'll see. As for now this new estate bus is the daily driver. I like it well enough so far. 21 plate with 80K on it.

I think there are pitfalls to EV's if you are not careful. For sure if I were considering one I'd lease it on a short lease that was no longer than the manufacturer warrantee. There is no way I would buy one. That said that are a good option for those of us who do short trips and home charging on a "granny lead" is a practical option but you MUST still use a 13A socket designed to support car charging, BS 1363-2, often marked with "EV". (This is due to the constant load). My sparky recommends a separate circuit as well as the safest way. My preference, despite the short trips, remains a petrol engine and in the Skoda range I prefer the 1.5. It'll return 43 mpg around town with ease and over 50 mpg on a run. Given my low annual mileage I personally think a full oil and filter service once a year or at 5000 miles makes the most sense. The one thing short trips are good at is gumming up the engine internals. I also follow the advice after a long run at higher speed to allow the engine a few minutes at idle to cool down before switching it off.

If the oil level is upto your finger thats very high. Its either been overfilled by a lot or something is raising the level. If it was water it would be emulsified so wonder if diesels getting in somewhere which would make oil very thin and explain the run on. It is the correct dip stick? Alasdair

I always used this garage for MOT and full service. This was the first time since buying the Enyaq that I put it through its mot and asked them if they held the necessary qualifications to work on an EV for servicing. The car was given a full workout in regards to brakes, filters and all tyres replaced for Michelin Cross Climate.

On a number of VWs I've owned, if the bonnet wasn't closed properly, the wipers just didn't operate.

Make sure the bonnet is properly shut. If the microswitch that senses bonnet being open isn't saying 'shut' the intermittent setting may be disabled.

The best picture I could find online suggests there should be an upper plastic part. The idea is that the engine breathes cooler, denser air rather than the hot stuff from the engine bay.

Ahh sorry. Denmark, left hand drive. I guess there could be differences of course.

I reckon get it scanned in case its stored a code. Could be a number of things from air in fuel line to failing crank/cam sensor and everything inbetween hence get it scanned. Alasdair

Yeah that’s the battery indicator on your mobile, charge it up

Thanks very much Jack. Good work!

I suspect from that fuel filter that is a diesel model look at this https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5q0127400f-fuel-filter-holder-tdi-skoda-25673.html and also this is the engine bay from my 2016 octavia (it's a scout but with the 2.0L tdi CUNA 184 bhp)

Thanks both for your comments. I did wonder if variable servicing was something to do with it. Looking at the documents we received with the car, it does look to tie up with the registration date, so perhaps that is what's happened. Thanks

A trial date has been set for August 3, 2026, at Liverpool Crown Court. The case is still ongoing

diesel fuel of multiple unfinished regenerations od DPF filter..

I am embarrassed. I've just checked HERE and my 2007 Octy 2 has 5 X 112 PCD, NOT 5 x 115 as I had in my notes. So, if the wheel is of use, it's yours. Do check first that a full size wheel and tyre will fit into your wheel well, in case it's been tailored for a smaller-sized spare. I'll go measure the externals on this wheel and update you later.

From a problem solving perspective I would do this - and nothing else - before testing the car again. If you 'fix' allsorts and the car works OK you will not be able to identify the original problem uniquely.

Probably come from somewhere near the sea. As said check earth straps especially near starter and also cables to starter. It could be the starter thats failing. Had one in an old van that started to crank slowly and half the coils had burnt out so only half power. The flashing glowplug may be down to a few things. Could be low battery/good battery with bad earth also check your brake lights are working as well. Found this when I was working on my sons MK1 so may be the same. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Sm3QJJNRZo

The symbols are both for the phone. One is battery, the other is signal strength.

The only place worth going to. https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/superb-3/spare-parts/accessories/foot-mats-770.html

You cannot engage it accidently

Installed Auxito LED reversing and indicator bulbs this evening. Much brighter and clearer. Another simple but effective upgrade. Difficult to photograph but hopefully the difference is visible. It certainly is in person.

for mats I got some from Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FP5WPKVL They are pretty decent for the price. On the website that @Gammylegrecommended you can choose more customisation and quality levels. I’ve bought some from there for a previous car and they are good too.

Hi, the fan is turning in the correct direction. The measurements I took are not correct, the width of the radiator is only 285mm so when the previous owner did his engine swap he failed to fit the wider 322mm radiator from the donor vehicle. This suggests that it’s been running hot since the swap which could also explain why the head gasket was blown when I bought the car. I’ve ordered the correct size rad and as the radiator cowl won’t fit from the smaller radiator I’ve ordered a 12” eBay cheapo radiator until I can find the correct cowling.

Contacted dealer and they do bleed the clutch slave cylinder as well

I did the rear brake pads and discs on my 2018 1.5 TSI ACT Octavia recently. With manual handbrake so you've got to remember to take it of before you jack the car up. It was a reasonably straight forward job - only special tool needed was a calliper rewind tool. The disc came off without removing the carrier. As for size I took the wheel off and gave the disc a rough-ish measure -they are pretty small discs. They were Pagid pads and discs from Halfords. 20252268000030 Pagid Brake Pads 10144032 1 £13.30 20255458000030 Pagid Brake Discs 1044426 1 £38.65 20255458000030 Pagid Brake Discs 1044426 1 £38.65

I can't remember their sizes, personally I'd use any bought from a reputable seller, apart from Brembo. You may have to take off the rear calliper carrier bracket off to get the rear disc off the hub, some you do, some you don't. I did, the carrier bolts are tight & hard to access if you don't have a lift. You also need a special torx type tapered socket to take the carrier bracket bolts off, I bought a couple from my local motor factors, as they only came in twos. I found this out whilst changing my last rear set on my previous 19 plate 1.5tsi dsg se, Octavia. Plus the calliper carrier bolts need to be tightened to a specific torque. Best to have a rewind kit to rewind the rear brake piston back, too. It's a lot easier of a job if the rear disc comes off the hub without having to remove the rear brake calliper, carrier bracket, too. I'll replace my fronts next myself, the rears, I'll take to an independent garage to have replaced, as the rear calliper bracket has to come off. I'm working off my drive using axle stands & trolley jacks. Plus I'm not young, anymore. I just found an old post of mine, this may help you-

The wheels are Pegasus (see HERE ) and are 5x115 PCD. Cost? Whatever it costs me to ship it dahn Sarf :)

I would have thought the person doing the repair would remove and refit the trim as part of the job?

There is usually a couple of self tapper screws (maybe inside the 'handle' in the trim if your car has this? Then they just require a firm pull to release the trim spring clips.

I have a 17" alloy wheel that I swapped out from my Scout. Any use?

The problem with these wheels is that there's a nasty channel that the cheesegrater clips into, that fills with brake dust & is very difficult to clean. Hopefully less of an issue for you if the channel is also black. I also ordered 50mm caps from another Ebay supplier but they didn't fit as too small. Ordered another set from Amazon & they didn't fit either! But given how awful that channel looks with silver wheels, I've left the trims on.

I replaced the heater core. Since I couldn’t find a video about this specific combination (Octavia 4 + 5WA819031), here are a few notes to share with others: a) Most shops sell a heater core for my car with the code 5Q0819031, and I even managed to order one before realizing that the correct part is 5WA819031. Physically check which heater core is actually installed in your car before ordering. b) Look for the screw for footwell air duct on the right of the steering column (on my left-hand-drive car). c) The plastic part of the center console gets in the way. I bent it aside. d) The clamp screws are very difficult to access. When installing the new heater core, it would be wise to position them in a more accessible way to make the job easier next time. Compared to the Octavia III, there is significantly less space to work with.

This is the only way I've made it work reliably on many VAG group cars over the years. Start with a clean thumb drive, format it if you need to. DO NOT create any folders on the drive. Copy each album in turn onto the drive so that each album shows up as it's own folder. All album folders need to be in the root of the drive. DO NOT nest folders one inside the other. If you want album art there are two possible ways: Inside each album folder place a small JPEG of the album art. (It must be exactly the right size, but I forget what that is. Too big or too small and it does not work). Use an MP3 tag editor to embed the album art as a metatag on each track of the album. Using the above method I have media available on both a Mk8 Golf and the Kamiq, most of it showing album art. The Thumb drive must be plugged into one of the front USB C ports under the heater controls.

I wanted the raised boot floor so I did my own. It's not quite as complex as the OE Mk3 version - more like the Mk2 - but i'm very happy and now can have a level floor with seats folded down for long loads or a mattress. All measurements available for anyone that wants to do it too. Octavia Mk2 Estate Variable Floor - £20 from U-Pull-It (back edge cut slightly shorter and different shape to fit mk3 124mm Wide Strips of 18mm Chipboard - £0 from B&Q Offcuts Bin 100mm Wide Strips of 18mm MDF - £0 from B&Q Offcuts Bin Anthracite Acoustic Lining Carpet & Glue - £9.45 from ebay

Mine was the same. I drilled a small hole through the lowest plug in the spare wheel well and I have had no more problems.

It can be the lights seal, it can be the rear flap,rear of car behind, actually in front of the bumper, it can be the hatch seal. Look at the Threads, these are just some of the many.

My Skoda Superb L&K 265hp was purchased new in June 2025 and worked with no errors reported until November 2025 when the car was put in to the garage for a health check, to check a bodywork issue, when the car was returned by the garage a 12v battery low warning was given the door keyless entry sensor did not work I had to use the Button on the key to enter, the Primary User profile would not load had to use guest and the wing mirrors heaters do not work. On garage investigation the battery control module was changed and the garage confirmed that the ECU cut back on non essential functions when the battery level was detected as being low. The door opening, User Profile etc. stopped working after 3 days so changing the battery module did not work, the car has been booked in again for late March, but the fault does suggest a parasitic drain on the battery caused by a change carried out during the November ‘Health Check’, Issue not resolved investigation ongoing