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Hi guys, Thank you very much for your feedback on this one. So I've checked the ground points highlighted by Alasdair and everything was fine. I managed to solve it! The culprit for the 8V was the ignition switch. I changed it and everything works as intended. I've replaced the beam and washer stalks and they work. Thank you again for your time and support here!

Hey folks, I am returning to Skoda after a hiatus of some 4 years. I started out back in 2012 with an Octavia which I liked but as a 1.6l petrol was a bit underpowered. Made my way to a Yeti in 2016 and absolutely loved that car. It was the Outdoor 2L TDI and was hands down the best car I ever owned. I still regret selling it... And the reason I sold it was to buy a VW camper van - a California - which we enjoyed (despite it being quite a 'fussy' vehicle when it came to the infotainment etc. Family circumstances forced that sale and I tried a BMW 330i for a year before switching to a Mini Clubman JCW. Both he BMW and Clubman were good but lacked something soul wise and the state of the UK roads has made the decision for me to trade in and purchase a pre-loved Scout which I am picking up next week. Very happy to be returning to Skoda! Look forward to getting Scout related questions answered and hopefully answering some myself!

PS I’ve given you the truth about electric cars in that previous post, that is it 😀. The governments are just playing at it with what has been done so when Skegness is under water they can say “we tried but not enough people were interested.”

It does warn about setting changes, had absolutely no issues with it, just needs a few settings tweaks afterwards. The sky is always falling in, especially on FB , being the very worst echo chamber of the painfully uninformed 🤦

I think you may have missed that was a link explaining the phenomenon, not a question. 😉

What is torque steer?

It depends on your use of the car and it's electrics but only 2 years out of any battery sounds bad, Varta are normally a good make and EFB or EFB+ whilst possibly not as good as AGM aren't that bad. The battery gets the blame for many electrical and charging issues when the vast, vast (twice) majority of times it isn't the battery at fault, rather a problem with the car (part(s), component(s), system(s), programing) seen many times with VW - or and I'm not suggest this is the case this time, but other times, it's the use, abuse, neglect of the vehicle owner/driver(s). Varta is a reliable make, most are, VWŠkoda vehicles have been proven to be less so by all the different threads and posts on the various models of "battery problems". By all means fit a new battery for yourself and code it in (do this carefully to have correct data entry, loads and loads of examples of how on the various model forums here or I can post up info again here - but if you still have the car in 3 years time I expect you might have the same/similar issue (if not before). Good luck, let me know if you want battery 'coding' info (to confirm what you might already know, even more relevant if going AGM).

@Graham Butcher I do not think that is @lol-lol you are speaking about and having been in this thread since the start i have no idea who you might mean. If it is @lol-lol you are talking about might as well say that.

@Graham Butcher I just read some nonsense posted yesterday by you. Where is there anyone one here with an EV that has posted about EV,s being the best thing since sliced bread and ICE vehicles being a no no. I think everyone on here with an EV has an ICE vehicle as well or would use one. You somehow see what you want to see and not what people are actually discussing.

Hi I had a Golf MkIV for 25 years and 222,000miles from new but I was getting plagued by rust. Almost on impulse I bought a high mileage Skoda Karoq - 2021 and 91k miles. What a shock with all the tech; quite a learning curve. I've noticed forums for the Karoq have a lot less maintenance and repair information and more about how to set things up and how they work or fitting accessories. I guess this is to be expected when the Karoq hasn't been around too long and a lot of them are still under warranty/main dealer 'care'. My first project was to fit a full size spare wheel. More on that when I qualify to be able to upload. Phil

I usually go to eBay for these bits... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336312344187 In case anyone needs it... MY son-in-law has a Fabia an I used to have Fabia estate about 12-13 years ago. I end here!

Yes Arianne, I saw the Canton logo on my A pillars as you informed me. Interested to hear your thoughts on the sound system using your own music files. Think you may need USC connector for your portable storage.

You need this 030103175B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/030103175b-valve-vent-skoda-20643.html The oil vapour isn’t going in the intake manifold causing this mess. Some owner also got a check engine light for a missing breather, I have to replace it because it was broken but I didn’t have a cel. However the fitting process is really easy plough the breather in the seal and the other end the pipe under the airbox pipe, you should see a 1,5 cm diameter rubber pipe angling around

I can see the problem the breather valve is missing

Thought i would share. Wing mirror got totaled, Found one on ebay for £35-00 inc postage. Thought it was cheap but reckon I could make one out of two. Arrived in 24hours and is spotless and exactly right. Getting fitted today. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/ucdpart Alasdair

Hi all, in case it is helpful, this is the recall information. https://car-recalls.eu/skoda-recalls-50000-kodiaqs-over-side-airbag-issues-kba/ I'm booked in next Thursday to get this resolved on my Kodiaq. "Skoda is recalling 49,766 Kodiaq vehicles manufactured between 21 August 2024 and 8 December 2025 to workshops worldwide. The reason for this recall is that an edge on the front seat frame may compromise the integrity of the side airbag when it is deployed. In an authorized workshop, the installation of a non-woven anti-chafing protection will be carried out. The Kraftfahrt-Bundesamt (KBA) is monitoring the recall under reference number “16172R“. The manufacturer’s internal code is “72SG“."

What @Giannis20 is describing is what many people had after OTA update to 1989. Looks like it is not about O3A8 at all, or a combination of these two softwares creates the problem. I would bring it to Skoda and blame O3A8 anyway.

No worries, you'll have to excuse the mess, I'm a mountain biker and everything I own is covered in mud all winter.

To clarify a couple of things. I have an EV myself through salary sacrifice. I never said nobody buys an EV with their own money, only that I don't know anybody who has (I don't include people I only know through internet forums in that category). I'm very glad if it's working out well for you - I'm very satisfied with mine myself but going EV only does not work for me right now for many different reasons, some of which I have been sharing on here (including simple factual data). As and when that changes I'll be happy to change. Out of interest what EV charging tariff do you use? Have you done any analysis on how much extra the peak rate is costing you on your general home electricity?

The answer may be Yes and No. The documentation relating to my 2024 Fabia's last service (carried out by a Skoda dealership on 12 March 2025) has two relevant entries. One says that the service procedure includes "Check for outstanding workshop campaigns" and (in the MAINTENANCE LIST) there's a reference to checking for "OTA Software update - if a field campaign is listed on the VIN (with the customer's consent)" This 2014 BRISKODA topic discussed Skoda service campaigns and the differences between the various types of 'recall' https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/337617-skoda-service-campaigns-no-recalls-being-done-briskoda-forum/ and there's a Skoda website for checking for recall campaigns using the vehicle's VIN code https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/recall-campaigns I'm wary of the idea that - since mid-2024 - there has been a universal non-OTA 'workshop-only' ECU update that can (or should) be applied to ALL Fabia Mk4 cars. This is simply because the Mk4 range has several possible motors and (logically) the ECU will match the motor's specification. However I can believe that (since mid-2024) there has been an ECU update that can (and should) be installed on certain Mk4 models that have a major problem and the P0638 error code is detected. I'll ask about this when my Fabia is serviced in 3 weeks' time. Release notes for OTA software updates can be found here and I installed Campaign (03A9) yesterday. https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/software-update-ice I did not enjoy the experience and (for my Fabia SE L at least) I found the procedure a lot less user-friendly and informative than I would have liked. To digress... In 2015 I bought a new motorhome built on a Fiat Ducato chassis. Widespread problems with this Ducato's instrument-cluster (spurious warning lights) soon began to be reported and Fiat would replace under warranty the complete cluster ( £900 to purchase new) of any Ducato that displayed the fault. It was also admitted (eventually) by Fiat that, for RHD Ducatos, it was difficult to read the speedometer during the day in low-light conditions. As a result, when the vehicle was being Fiat dealer-serviced, a software update was installed to turn on the dashboard lighting each time the vehicle's ignition was switched on. My Ducato was LHD and not affected by the speedometer visibility issue, but, when it was next serviced, I immediately noticed that the dashboard-lighting update had been applied. I asked the technician about this and he said "Three software updates were installed on your vehicle, one of which was the dashboard lighting change". "What were the other two updates for?" I asked. He replied "I don't recall - the system tells us there are updates to install and we just let the the system install them".

I don’t run short local trips but generally operate within 200 miles of where I start. My minimum daily mileage is 65 miles round trip. If it lasts 10 years, which will be 200k miles then I will be satisfied, that is the plan and the lifespan I did all my cost calculations on.

I'd challenge it as being 'major', considering it took about 5 seconds to install! I work in IT, and I certainly wouldn't categorise it as a 'major' release!

Depends what you all mean by "to the top". If you fill the tank until the pump cuts out with the nozzle fully into the filler pipe then that is what you are supposed to do. You might call that "to the top". Now if, when the pump cuts out in the above scenario, you then pull the filler nozzle back and get a further 2-3 litres into the car and you call this "to the top" then you are asking for trouble. The fuel level is high enough that it could flow into the evap cannister. (Probably not an issue on a warm day if you are on a long trip and fill up mid trip. for sure a potential issue if you only drive another mile or two before parking the car.) From the Kamiq handbook: " Insert the fuel nozzle into the fuel filler neck up to the stop and refuel. › Do not continue refuelling after the fuel nozzle switches off. › Remove the fuel nozzle and put it back on the petrol pump." Also see information on petrol fuel filter around page 147

Hello guys. Not sure if the Skoda made a silence update, or it is related to outside temperature, but apparently all the issues disapeared one day, now it started to be like enjoyable car :)

That's incredibly infuriating that you've had this issue for so long, and are still going to have to wait a while to get it rectified, but I suppose getting an answer and (hopeful) solution finally is good news regardless of a further wait. Hopefully it sorts out your issue!

thanks for keeping us posted

I understand what torque steer is but from what I know it should mainly appear under stronger acceleration, not cause the car to pull constantly at steady speed. In my case the behavior is slightly different. When starting from a traffic light or intersection, even with normal throttle, the steering wheel turns slightly to the right by itself if I don’t hold it. The more throttle I apply the more noticeable it becomes. Another point is that the car still pulls to the right even at constant speed, for example around 50–60 mph where the engine is running at low RPM just maintaining speed. That’s why I’m not fully convinced this is only torque steer. Will see what Skoda says.

Thanks AG. The garage I took my car to looked at the alloys (20 years old) and said they could be refurbed but would need redoing over time. Price per wheel looks about the same: new tyres and refurb or new steel rims and tyres. Maybe old school steel rims and bigger volume tyres going to be better on rough potholed roads?

One of the standard wheel sizes on the Octavia MK2 1.9TDI 105PS is 195/65R15 6Jx15 ET47 5/112 57.1 Steel rims can be ordered on their own or with fitted and balanced tyres, from mytyres.co.uk Alcar 9165 6Jx15 ET47 5/112 57.1 steel rim (7.73kg) (Octavia MK2) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=183006013861926000&rimCode=ALCAR9165 Alcar 9165 6Jx15 ET47 5/112 57.1 steel rim with fitted and balanced Uniroyal RainExpert 5 195/65R15 91H (Euro label C A 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cw/bundle?vehicle_ids=182669563303826544&wheelId=SKWi-9165--D-124258&rimCode=ALCAR9165&tyreId=D-124258&wheelIdWithTpms=&season=so&rimType=steel Octavia MK2 parts catalogue https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/419/6

With the 1.5 TSI engine it depends what model year you are looking at; it has had modifications that have attempted to address the issues, I think its fair to say that it has improved but not not been completely fixed. It is a complex engine designed around the Miller cycle rather than the traditional Otto cycle, it requires very precise tolerances and tuning to perform properly. Many owners say it runs better on Premium fuel - like Shell V-Power and it benefits from Fixed annual servicing scheme rather the extended Flexible/Variable servicing scheme. The 1.0 TSI and 2.0 TSI engines on the otherhand seem to be problem free. With regard to the DSG gearbox fitted to the 1.5 TSI there are two versions - 2WD use the DQ 200 and 4WD use the DQ 381. The DQ 200 is a dry clutch and the DQ 381 a wet clutch. The majority of issues reported for the DSG gearbox are for the DQ 200, but there are literally millions of DQ 200 DSG gearboxes in use around the world in VW, Audi, SEAT and Skoda vehicles. Its a feature of Forums and Groups that the majority of posts relate to problems which skews the impression of an engine or gearbox. The DQ 200 has been around for over 15 years, with modifications and improvements, and the post 2015 DQ 200 is generally a reliable gearbox (I have a DQ 200 in our 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI which we've had for 11 years). The DSG is a manual gearbox with a mechanically controlled clutch and gear selection mechanism, so just like the manual clutch and gearbox it can suffer if abused. The DQ 381 wet clutch is relatively new, its processor, was the bullet proof DQ 250 ( I had one of these in a VW for 11 years). I have a DQ 381 in my Karoq 2.0 TSI 4x4. There is no doubt that the 1.5 TSI is more suited to the DSG than the manual gearbox, as the DSG manages the foibles of the 1.5 TSI automatically. I would advise test driving a new 1.5 TSI manual and 1.5 TSI DSG - to set a bench mark as to how they should drive. Then when you test drive used ones you will have a standard against which to judge them. With the DSG it should creep smoothly without any throttle on tickover, change gear smoothly even under hard acceleration, pull away without jerkiness. Its your money and car at the end of the day and we all have different preferences and requirements.

It was a GT TDI PD115; I really wish I'd waited for the 130... I had winter pack, weather pack, climate control and CD changer (what are CDs? 🙂). The cloth seats were better than in the Karoq.

Asking about a dashboard rattle is a bit like asking how long is a piece od string. Can't identify it through a keyboard/screen...

With a few cheapish lithium Iron phosphate home power stations j have managed to get my overall cost of lecky down to the 11 to 12p per kwh average. My main concern is making sure I treat the EVs batteries in the kindest way so new plan from April onwards will be to use the Wall boxes to charge the cars to 80 or maybe 85% and then only charge the EVs a bit more in the just before I leave stage, do any preconditioning if desire and push the charge level put ton90, 95 or 100% if journey actually going ahead. Couple of time charged to a high level only for the journey to be postponed. I am not confident that Octopus will lower the Nightime rate to below 8p per KWh butvthey will reduce the Daytime rate by loads whichvwill make the small day time top up and preconditioning cheaper. I reckon I spend only about £100 a year on public charging and that or less on charging not at the super cheap Night time rate and with the Freebie and Savings sessions offset much of that.

Just be wary that the DSG in the Kodiaq can suffer issues (mechatronic etc.) which might also be prevalent in the Karoq? Personally I'd be looking at a manual.

This can happen in front wheels drive cars if you accelerate quickly, nothing unusual.

You're not wrong there @Stonekeeper . I have been working with ChatGPT to get a small sample of test music files ready for next week - we collect our Superb on Monday, all being well. Very few people have anything great to say about the Canton upgraded system. At best, folk tend to say it is alright with a few outliers who are pleased with it. Many folk are underwhelmed. It is a mid-level mainstream upgrade system so I myself am not expecting great things from it. But I want to give it my best shot and so I have identified some excellent sound engineered recordings, will rip them from CD to lossless flac files on a USB thumb drive and then experiment next week with the Canton system to see, or should I more accurately say 'hear', what is possible. I will update the community afterwards with my settings and file setup just in case anyone else wants to squeeze the absolute best from what we have installed in our Superbs. Best wishes, Arianne.

Hard to say from the video. Try using Super Unleaded petrol for a tankful or two. See if the noise disappears after the second fill up.

I was kicking myself for not Fixing my energy for 12 months last Wednesday for a few pence more a kWh and an hour less offpeak. So i panicked and Fixed yesterday at the latest price. As to range, that is now @ 4 miles a kWh driving local. I have the AC off and the Rapid Screen demist as not needed, i have used it pretty much all the time since i got the car but now have Wind Deflectors fitted and the windows a couple of mm down, the interior of car is dry even though dogs carried. So 52 kWh @ 9.5 pence a kWh home charge is just about £5. That is good for 175-200 or so miles. Just the Public charging increases to pay, whatever they get to.

My time with the ID.4 has come to an end. It has been a very good car and has lovely to ride around in. I thought I'd give the final costs for charging. The vast majority has been home charging, the first 3.5 years at Octopus Tracker rates (generally 2-3p below SVR) and the pst 18 months on Intelligent Octopus Go 7p/kWh. There were some free charges in the first 6 months of ownership as Tesco and Aldi offered free charging back then. Paid for public charging has been while away from home, usually on holiday - notably 3k miles around France in 2023. Since getting the IOG tariff my cost has averaged 2.95p/mile. The overall cost per mile for 63908 miles has been 5.09p/mile. Insurance comparable to previous Karoq, £390 last year and £452 for next year. Maintenance has been relatively cheap. First service was £280 at VW, second service was £180 at my local independent. 3x MOTs @ the going rate, no failures or warnings given. The car has been relatively expensive on tyres, due to having to replace 6(!) for punctures/pothole damage. Only two have been replaced due to wearing out. (and one of those got a thorn in the sidewall 10k miles later!). Basically I've found the car cheaper to run overall than the Karoq was and has repaid the slightly higher monthly cost of purchase with lower bills. I'll be keeping the same track on the costs of the ID.3 that will replace it, which I expect will be even lower due to lower insurance, better efficiency and lower monthly payments.

£617 monthly payment... Seriously? £617 every month? That's £7,404 per year!! Does that include everything? Tax? Insurance? I just paid £850 for a 25 year old Fabia. If it lasts till the MOT and fails terminally (in September, 6 months hence), I'll still be £2,986 better off. Not likely though. And frankly, I could have haggled the Fabia down more (owner started at £1000 🤣) , but the engine appears well looked after (recent oil changes etc, and other work with receipts, presented clean throughout, including the engine bay, clean MOT, and only 83000 on the clock), so I went easy. Each to their own, but when the talk is of "cost of living crisis", I can't see how people can consider paying that much just to have a new car on the drive.

04.03.26 - had the following work done today: LS: 150 904 km Replacement of timing belt kit. Replacement of water pump. Replacement of accessory belt. Replacement of crankshaft first seal. Bleeding cooling system with ODIS. Spare parts: 530 0650 30 / INA Water pump + timing belt kit 6PK1033 / CONTINENTAL CTAM V-ribbed belt 20037032B / CORTECO Shaft seal, crankshaft Coolant Polar Premium Long-Life G12evo -37°C 5L

I use NGK in everything from strimmer/chainsaws to cars without any problems and have been using them for years. NGK have a plug finder https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/ I personally avoid others especially unknown brands. Alasdair

Hi, just a quick follow up, here is how the 225/55 R17 winter tyres look on the car. No problems at all with tyre pressure monitoring system. All working fine.

I'd forgotten about this thread. So in 2023 I moved on from the Garmin VivoActive 4 & bought a Garmin Fenix 7 Solar, this was partially due to the amount hours spent exercising and the amount of time being spent away from home (work and camping). My eldest son now uses my old VivoActive 4 for his cycling/hiking/climbing etc etc in the Highlands of Scotland, his only complaint is the battery life seeming poor but then it is a few years old now. As for the Fenix7 Solar, its an amazing bit of kit

Sounds like a suspension issue, possibly tracking or even incorrect tyre pressure. If it’s only a month old get the dealer to look at it.

I’ve stopped doing any updates now, every time I do one it seems to screw something up

In my 21ym, Ocatavia, Android Auto won´t work. It says it can´t find the phone, but everything else works via BT. But can´t get Android Auto working. Neither by cable nor by wireless. Any ideas?

Well, here I am 2 years on from my new battery saga and history is repeating itself - at my annual service (last week in February) despite charging the battery overnight, I got the usual bovine manure line from the service reception on collection, 'your battery is in good condition but it needs a good charge'! I fully charged it (CTEK) last Wednesday and 1 week later (yesterday) the state of charge is down to 60% with the advice 'Replace'. These VW branded Varta EFB+ batteries are not up to the job. Rather than let the dealer have it for another 7 days 'testing' I'm minded to go down the DIY route and fit a more reliable make and code it myself with OBD11.

@Dieselgate That is the main problem with many of the main EV drivers/owners participating in this "the truth about electric cars" topic. Very few of them can even bring themselves to deviate from the narrative that all things electric are good and burning dino juice fuel is bad and anyone burning diesel is nothing short of a knuggledragger. If all BIK and salary sacrifice schemes, cheap or free charging at work etc., grants towards buying an EV and the cheap electric tariffs for home charging were removed. If showroom prices were on an even keel with their combustion variants, the cars would have to stand on their own merits, and people would make the choices based on their own personal preferences and which type of motive power best suited their needs.