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Carrying a full load in the car doesn't increase the tyre pressures...even on a temporary basis while the load is being carried. For example, the spare tyre will have the same tyre pressure whether it's off the car or fitted to the car carrying the weight of the car. If the car's tyres are inflated when they are hot, simply add 3psi to the normal pressures and check again (adjusting the pressures if necessary) in the evening or after dark when the sun isn't heating the air in the tyres. Air expands by about 10% when the temperature increases from 20 degrees Centigrade to 50 degrees Centigrade...so you might find that the tyre pressures increases by about 10% when they are measured at 50C compared to when they are measured at 20C...or about 3psi.

While TPMS may indicate that tyres are at their correct pressure - always best to check manually on a regular basis. Rather than using pressure sensors on individual tyres, the Scala uses a system which measures the differing speeds of each wheel. A loss of pressure in one tyre will reduce the rolling diameter, hence speed up that wheel's relation to the others. Temperature changes and general leakage can allow the pressure in all four tyres to reduce by the same amount. I found recently in cooler weather all four were nearly 2psi down even though my Connect app was showing all was well. Also do not use alloy valve caps as they chemically bond with the steel valves and require complete replacement. Can be done by deflating the tyre completely to enable valve replacement - but best not to cause the problem in the first case.

Yes fob battery life is greatly shortened (I change mine annually when MOT is done) important to change spare fob battery too and use it approx. once every 3 months (to re sync with the cars rolling codes)

Thanks for the advice . Dealer it is

Just an observation. If the fuel cap is not air-tight then you may get an engine warning light turn on. If you have an OBD reader then the code is P0441 (Incorrect Purge Flow); sometimes you might also get P04F0 (High Pressure Purge Line Performance). The car is still driveable with these codes, but it won't pass the MOT with an engine check light on. Changing the fuel cap is an obvious first step for fixing this issue.

I can check mine in the morning after a cold night and maybe 2.4 Bar and later in the day 2.6 Bar, and after 5 miles driven 2.7. Today they will be at 2.8 Bar when the ambient temp gets to near 20*oC. But that is Air temp. The road surface / surface where parked will be much higher than the air temp with the sun heating it. Parked on Asphalt in the sun the pressures / temperatures can be a bit different than on red or grey pavers or on concrete / slabs. Try it, just move the car from one surface to another. Maybe only a matter of feet apart. Often where i park the drivers side are higher temp and pressure than the passenger side because sitting in the sun compared to the other side in the shade.

Duly noted. 👍

We all know tyres should be checked and inflated when cold, however how much difference does this actually make? I need to do the tyre pressures on the BMW before Scotland, and I’ve only got tomorrow to do it. It’s a pretty warm and sunny day, so doing it in the evening would obviously be best, but then I’d be doing it with the car packed! I’m hoping to get up and do it early, but if not then - any ideas? My car lives in the garage - the BMW is not as lucky!

Hello everybody, I've just bought my first car in 8 years - a Fabia from 2016. Looking forward to being back in the drivers seat again, squeeze every bit of potential out of my "new" car - and get to know the community :)! Greetings from Cologne! edit: quick typo correction :)

Thats the mib2 version of the backend menu. mib1 is similar. You run it with the 350 map download and overwrite the navigation files. Manual and fumbling the menu if mib1 is the same. Ive used the process a lot on a mib2 high for overwriting the maps.

Yes slightly worrying why mine ran out of refrigerant….

Yes that's Mr Fix its videos.videos. Vag dropped support for Mib1 so whilst the release is a dual release Vag left out the mib1 components. If you got hardware prior to 2015 it's mib1. 370 after was the change over. To get out of this mess you need to install an old map that corresponds to your unit. You can use the developers menu which in mib1 isn't locked down. A long press on MENU gets you into a menu where you will see SWDL with any luck. You then play around with that with the 350 map file. Install all. Keep the door open to keep the unit powered up after 40 mins or so you should be OK. Never used swdl on a mib1 but I know people who have on boards. If like mib2 it should fix it although I do recall a post where there was an issue of a filled memory ?. But basically swdl allows you to go backwards as well as forwards into map updates. 350 is your last mib1 high map release after that you aren't suppose install the combined file since its missing the element you need. It's just a curiosity of how they historically did a dual release. Best of luck.

I no longer have any feeler gauges so I can't do it - but I know a man that can... Will report back on anything significant.

I would be checking what the gap is now.

If only things were that easy haha, disabling it actually does nothing while moving. It turns the engine off while coasting, but when it stops completely will turn it back on, because start stop is off... strange behavior, but sadly is not the solution...

Today I baked myself on my one hour commute home from the office. It turns out the air con doesn’t work. That’ll teach me for buying a car in winter. Called kwikfit en route and managed to get it booked in for a regas tomorrow. Curiously it started blowing ice cold about 2 minutes from home! I’m now questioning my sanity as to whether the ac button was enabled! Oh well won’t hurt to have the gas changed anyway.

Jumping in on this discussion as I have just had the spark plus changed in my 1.5TSI ACT, been in situ for 39k miles; and yes, they're a ridiculous price! At least we don't have to change them every 6k miles as we did when I started driving. Anyway, to the point, remembering this thread I asked to technician to keep the plugs for me so I could have a look and upload some photos. It's probably worth adding here that the majority of my mileage is on runs in excess of 50 miles, often nearer 300, and a high proportion of that on motorways and dual carriageways - so a fairly high proportion in 2-cylinder mode compared to a car driven on shorter or urban roads. A trained eye may well see something significant but from what I can see, there is very little or no difference in the state of the plugs (other than the effects of grubby fingers). Makes me wonder if swapping them around would give another 10-15k miles - but that'd probably cost an arm & a leg in labour 😂. Some pics...

Bempton cliffs is amazing isn't it... I e never seen so many birds in one place. Was there any sign of the Albatross?

Pete, I found your post not to reflect my experience or expectations. To this I emailed Skoda Bath, included you comments but no personal data. As you can Imagine I received a prompt reply. I have included it below in full apart from my details. Hopefully you’re not put out by my actions. My only hope is that it’s the last time this occurs. Enjoy your Toyota, decent motors 👍🏻 Regards John Good afternoon John, Thank you kindly for bringing this to our attention. I’m thrilled to hear you continue to be pleased with your new Skoda Superb and the service from us. Sadly the below comments fall well below the level of service we look to provide and are disappointing to see. Whilst I understand we were short staffed last week and Sara was already engaged with another customer (out on test drive) during the enquiry I will investigate this further. I’m sure this could of explained professionally and an alternative approach offered. Thanks again. Kind Regards, Keith Atkins Sales Manager Platinum Škoda Bath Lower Bristol Road Bath BA2 3DN 01225 485400

Personally I'd go with the dealer for the 2 year warranty with it only being £90 more. I had shock absorbers replaced under the extended warranty. Just under 2 years later it had a MOT at Skoda under its service plan. They failed it on the front shock for misting, when I pointed it out it was less than two years old they replaced it using the parts warranty. Unfortunately my dealer wanted £1050 for the cam belt and pump. Paid £750 at independent specialist.

Are you sure? I thought the Octavia 3 only went as far as a MIB2.5 and MIB3 only came in with the Octavia 4?

I have my L+K Superb Estate done at an independent with parts sourced from TPS, VW group originals each time. Was very handy when a TPS supplied auxiliary drive belt gave up and totalled the engine. Skoda then had to supply and fit a new engine. I may spend slightly more than getting pattern parts, but I do at least have that peace of mind.

Our memory seats work well, it's handy when my wife and I change driving. However we have found quite often that the mirrors sometimes don't update to the new setting and another press of the memory button is needed. Trying a long press when selecting the setting does not help, but a subsequent press when the fault is discovered always works.

An Elroq vRS has a 79 kWh usable battery. 300 miles would be if getting about 3.8 miles to the kW/h. A Elroq 60 with a 63 kWh battery & 59 kWh usable is getting just over 4 miles a kW/h to go 240 miles. You need to be getting 4.4 miles a kW/h to go 260 miles.

When I got my Fabia a couple of years back, I looked at the USB socket and thought that it would eventually fail at some point so I bought a 6" USB A socket to USB A plug fly-lead. I keep the fly-lead permanently connected to the car's socket and connect any other devices to the fly-lead socket. That way, all the wear and tear is limited to the fly-lead, which can cheaply be replaced if necessary.

If you read all my previous posts you will see I was down this route , emails phone calls to Škoda, Škoda dealer visits etc etc , all to no avail and the only solution was to fit the Škoda OEM bar and have the car coded . It cannot be coded without fitting the Škoda bar and towing module .

I hasten to add that my car had been stationary for a couple of weeks. Checked the app before getting to my car and, seeing suspiciously low pressure, checked them. The problem is - many don't and rely on "systems".

They don't unless you brake hard. If there's space on the battery re-gen braking will be used. You can also feel the difference between the two types of braking.

My 2024 Fabia SE L does not have 'full' KESSY, but (if you haven't already done so) you could try using the keyless locking deactivation procedure described in the Owner's Manual and see if that does any good.

Also I noticed that you're in NZ. I know in some hotter countries there are different thermostats fitted that are set to open at a much lower temperature, make sure you've got the right one for your climate.

thread about tested standalone dTPMS kits -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434028-tire-pressure-monitoring-system/#comment-5895850 pumped 2.5 in the spring, later in the summer, can easily reach 3.0 bar

I had this same issue - switch contacts burned out. Soldered new wires straight to the PCB, and hid an aftermarket rocker switch in the back of the sunglasses holder. Cost me like $4 NZD 🤣

TBH that was my gut feeling. I did the last one so no issues swapping it. I figured aliexpress couldn’t go too wrong with something that basic though lol.

I would try first of all by replacing the DSG stat with a new one of a decent brand. They're not expensive and it's an easy enough job to do DIY. AliExpress is great for some things but you never know the quality of what you're getting, especially when it comes to car parts

& the TPMS can be triggered not only by a reduced circumference of a tyre, it can be increased because of a binding brake or bearing on it's way out.

Is the car tuned? engine ecu? gearbox? (if it's a DSG) I'm asking because I've seen an audi a6 TDI whit a ecu tune and some parameter were exlued from giving warning light on the dash but the fault was active but not stored and causing the ecu to go in limp mode, in the end after fashing the ecu back to original they were able to see the fault and was a oil temperature switch readin 1000°C

That sounds like an over sensitive traction control issue - but you imply there's no indication on the instrument cluster for that?

I'd be more than surprised if limp mode was activated without a DTC being generated! What fault light displays on the instrument cluster when this happens? What equipment are they using to check?

Now fitted on the car and much better clean look I was after.

Move on IMO.

oh got you, should have worked that out!

New tyres are Green Tyres and need Run / Driven in, as do the brakes, suspension etc etc. Many written off cars are new with less than 50 miles on them because people do not think of tyres and the release agent. As to GITI Tyres. If VW do a deal with GITI so be it, as many Big Name Brands from Germany or Europe are crap anyway and over priced if replacing like for like but supplied cheap to VW Group.

Yeah Peter Schmeichel and his son would hardly fit at all.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

I assume you referring to these satin bronze beauties? I guess I'll have to shift them on the Bay, they will probably look too small on an Elroq, it will require 55 profiles on the front and the Elroq has wider 9" rears too making an 8" rim a bit small for 255's, all a bit of a shame as I love the look of these JR's, they never look dirty too. Elroq VRS incoming.

Sideskirts fitted over the weekend, took it out to some sunlight