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Thank you @SwallownAmazon this is the push I needed. I did report the faulty within the 30 day period. There are a few other issues with this dealership. I was given a courtesy car when I left mine in for repair. I did a quick car check on the courtesy car when I got home to find it was untaxed with no MOT! I'd driven it 48 miles home. When I told them it was untaxed they said they had taxed it just before I drove it home. This was a blatant lie. It appears they did nothing to repair my car, in fact they had been using it. There was personal items left in it and the sunroof had been opened because the screen was still back. There was very little fuel left and it had done over 50 miles more than when I left it. I should have known they were dodgy. I contacted Citizens Advice and they've given me information on how to reject this car to get a full refund. Again thank you for your advice. I needed that push.

I think all climatronic fans are going to have solid-state power control. If this wasn't the case, the electronics wouldn't be able to vary the fan speed independent of user input.

And its available without having to use their app. Furthermore the reduced rate also gets the electroverse discount 52p with the extra discount

Nice. A reduced tariff.

New alarm horn fitted. One false step in trying (and failing) to remove a shear-screw that looked like it needed to come out. [I cut the slot, wasn't sufficient]. Undid the M8 nut in the vertical face of the bracket, and found that there was then enough room to wriggle it out without anything else being undone. I did remove the rainwater shroud from above/around the cabin air intake to make more room. Allowed for better cleanup of scuttle too. No sign of anything wrong in old unit though. NiMH battery at 6.8V, which isn't horrible for a 5-cell arrangement. Capacitors on board all measured OK in value and tan-delta. Nothing else obvious. Will just have to wait and see.

If they've had it for a week with no successful repair AND the fault was reported to them before the 30 day warranty expired, get your money back. Local Authority Trading Standards office might be interested.......

I use the car scanner App. And in the service menu there is DSG adaptation for DQ250. You do 45 seconds with engine off then about 2 minutes with engine on and you get all the clonks and whirring. I’m assuming it’s the same as OBD11 and VCDS in that it resets all the bite points and clutch pressures. I tried it before then doing the drive in odd and then even gears but it didn’t seem to learn the right kind of characteristic of driving for me. @AL2772 advised that once I had done the programming to drive it hard in D and that seems to have taught it the gear changes I like. I’ve got a couple of service jobs and a little project to work on with it first. Pro kit for the future at some point I think.

Good Evening SkodaHeads, Colin, from London. Owned a Skoda for like 4 days. Mostly a bike person. Been a long time since I joined a forum like this..

Monitor battery voltage in situations where the problem is occurring. The extra power being used by the radiator fan (plus cabin fan) and the extra heat from A/C condenser may be causing the charging system to struggle. Something with voltage display plugged into the cigarette lighter is maybe the easiest way of looking at this while driving.

Cars for Nordic markets are usually equipped with ceramic heating elements, helps to warm up the engine very quickly.

Are these engines known for getting blocked pick-up pipes/strainers? I know my neighbour had an Audi TT 1.8T which had a badly blocked pick-up. If it is likely to be an issue, I’ll drop my sump and sort it before it’s too late.

That is what I was going to suggest, to find a way of wedging or preventing the blind from opening, or leave it fully open so movement can be ruled out and see how the alarm behaves.

taxi....

Manual. Yes, it is spring assisted I think. The front two magnets were loose and free to spin out of the correct orientation, for reasons unknown. Rear two seem much more firmly retained and take positive effort to rotate. Gaffer-taped the front two to each other and the top surface of the blind for now. Doubt that's going to stay there for long, but I did at least alcohol-clean the surfaces first.

Sounds as though the master has given up as you said maybe extra pressure with new slave. At least you now have evidence that its knackered and it should be covered by waranty. Hope a new master will cure all. Alasdair

New development, thanks to the main driver having just used the car and remembered something. 😁 Sunblind that covers the panaromic roof has been playing up in the heat, sometimes the front half opens while driving or when a door is shut, with a fairly alarming (geddit?) bang when it hits the end stop. She just popped out and found front half of the sunblind open, and was fairly sure it was shut last time she parked it up. Maybe the heat is making it sometimes open while the car is unoccupied and locked? That would be a very reasonable cause of alarm actuation, I think. Off to investigate the magnets that supposedly hold the blind shut...

35mm front, 30mm rear, unless you have DCC in which case its 25/20 as its already a little lower

when the window is up or down you have to first release the button before holding it again for 10 second

mileage is 178000

Beware, engine ingesting significant quantities of lubricating oil via a failing turbo can sometimes cause a diesel engine to run out of control.

Hopefully the slave will cure the problem. Might be worth pressure bleeding system first if it hasnt already been done just in case theres air left in it somewhere . I tried doing mine manually but didnt feel right so used a pressure bleeder and after a while a couple of bubbles appeared. Alasdair

Failure rate in MIB2 units, from my experience, is extremely low. No rollback neededif update goes OK, if fails then emergency recovery only.

Having said this I’ve just found pro kit on auto doc for £170….

No I managed to do the slave in my sons fabia mk1 without removing Gbox. Had to remove battery and compartment and think gear linkage to get access. Main problem with one person is holding slave in place to get bolts in as it tends to spring out. If you have problems with clutch and fluid is leaking it could be master or slave. If the slave leaks the actuator on an external one is internal so you dont notice any fluid. Check bottom of bell housing. Theres normally a small gap. If theres fluid there then its the slave leaking. The seals can also go and allow fluid past them but not leak on either. Just done the master on my Octavia. No signs of leaking but pedal went to floor and it was collecting on the undertray. Its more difficult to get to. Its one of those jobs you can see it but cant reach it!! especially with hands like mine. Alasdair

"Have you chosen the Exec or Luxury trim? I quite like the Luxury myself. And how do you find the car when the battery is exhausted with the 1.5 engine and single speed auto box?" I chose the Luxury because I need the sets to fold fully flat, they do not in the Executive. The ice actually has a 3 speed box, but as you never fully exhaust the battery and are always running on an electric motor you do not notice anything anyway. The ice just acts as a generator. I have read that it may drive the wheels sometimes but have not noticed it doing so or seen it on the graphics. In fact it is very hard to know if the ice is running, it very quiet and unobtrusive. Went to Bordeaux in it a coupe of weeks ago , fully loaded, and it drove perfectly, pulling away from tolls and just leaving every other car behind.

This is the umbrella that "came" with the car and it does NOT have Skoda stamped on it, so...either supplied with wrong type or the dealer has bins full of umbrellas for the differenr models and they had/have the incorrect type or the original unmbrella was swapped for the this one, maybe (but unlikely) during one of its three dealer service visits, it certainly wasn't the owner as he didn't even know ii came supplied with a umbrella. Photo1 shows the (30CM) umbrella stowed in the door, Photo2 shows it partially pulled out to access the release button, Photo3 shows that this handle WILL extend when the release button is pressed with the umbrella stowed or even if the umbrella is not in the car and the button is pressed, this is because this umbrella, when fully open does not lock in the open position, its just held open by the spring in the top (see Photo4, below), so the handle shot out, once, for whatever reason, the release button was pressed or whatever. I would strongly suggest that only OEM umbrells are used and/or ensure that to close it normally, a release button is, as normal, required to close it.

As Alisdair said. The highest speed is a usually a straight through connection. So if it works on highest speed but not others, then it is a failed resistor. However some fans used with air-con have an electronic speed controller that is part of the blower.

I myself would have thought that a Yuasa brand of battery is a safe bet, but it seems, from more informed professional sources that that is not true - some trade people only trust Varta. Bosch and Varta seem to share manufacturing facilities - but that does not necessarily mean they are the "same" battery with just different colours used on the cases. Varta for VW Group tend to get JCB to manufacture their batteries - so who know! I've had success from Bosch - both AGMs, one a direct AGM to AGM replacement only due to age (10 years) and one an EFB to AGM replacement again only due to age (10 years) - in both cases updating the car's battery/charging system controller using VCDS.

Not sure if the climatronic fan has a resistor pack. If its failed it may be the cause. Alasdair

Had a quick google and the one that came up looks external. You should be able to just see it in car under gear linkage/battery etc If its external will look like above or similar Alasdair

Well since writing this last night got in can this morning and service scheduling installed.

Don't know if you realised, or it's a typo, but the first part of the VW p/n is different, not just the end? One is 04 and the other 05. Also the first NGK p/n is just IKER (there's no L in it) IKER7A8EGS (94224) Looks like the first one is used in 1.0 and 1.4, and the second in 1.0 and 1.5 so, on the basis the 1.4 is older and the 1.5 newer I presume they must have redesigned the cylinder head at some point on the 1.0.

Take the fan out and give the bearing a dose of light oil... Chances are its just seized up.

Running E5 and mapped for 97ron as that’s the best we can get over here. Literally no where does a 99ron fuel. Ambient was just literally the outside temp in this case. The coolant at the radiator outlet sensor was reading within 1 degree Celsius of that. Think outside was 16c and outlet reading was 15c. Main coolant sensor, which in my case on this version of the engine is on the side of the head under the vacuum pump, was reading anything from 78c-81c. Car had sat all night and hadn’t been started so I could check the readings. Plugs were changed about 2 weeks ago for another set of genuine OE plugs, which from memory are really just NGK platinum plugs. These get changed every two years and are set to 0.028 and were still perfect when I removed them for inspection.

A few recent photos.........

So they want to ignore me.... And pay for diagnostic that will not bring anything in the case.. My response: Dear Zulpha Casker, Thank you for your response regarding the Matrix LED headlight software logic concern on my Škoda Superb (AK69 JXF). I appreciate Škoda UK’s assurance that product-related safety concerns are taken seriously. I fully understand that Škoda UK Customer Services requires an official technical assessment through your authorised retailer network before this matter can be escalated to factory engineers. To cooperate fully with your request, I will arranged to book my vehicle into my local authorised service centre: Faintree SEAT & CUPRA Shrewsbury (Vanguard Way). As part of the multi-brand Faintree network with an established Škoda partnership since 1986, their workshop utilizes the standard factory ODIS infrastructure needed for this investigation. Because this is a safety investigation into a systemic factory-level software logic conflict between the Satellite Navigation tracking map, the Front Driver Assistance Camera (Module A5), and the Central Electronics gateway (Module 09)—and not a localized hardware malfunction—the onboard diagnostic system will show zero Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). As this diagnostic assessment is being conducted at the direct request of the Škoda UK Executive Office to gather data on a widespread manufacturing code defect, I kindly request that Škoda UK issues a direct billing authorization to Faintree Shrewsbury to waive the upfront diagnostic fee. I should not be held financially responsible for the labor costs required to extract software logs for a factory engineering review. Please ensure the following technical directives, along with your fee authorization, are appended to my active case file and transmitted to the Faintree workshop team ahead of my vehicle's arrival: Factory Escalation: Request the master technician to bypass standard localized fault-code reading and immediately open a DISS / Technical Support Ticket directly with Škoda’s central factory product engineering team. Data Logging Constraint: Request that the workshop logs a diagnostic session while analyzing the "Motorway Light / Predictive GPS Highway" parameters, paying specific attention to the RHD/LHD country orientation flags in Module A5 (Byte 0) and Module 4B (Byte 5). I will update you with the final confirmed booking date as soon as the service desk schedules the master diagnostic slot. Thank you for your ongoing assistance and for arranging the diagnostic fee coverage with the retailer. Kind regards,

These are standard size on the MK1 VAG 1.8T 150/180bhp range. It's in a box to stop heatsoak. But, you might as well get a decent filter to put in the original airbox.

You need to tell the car if you are changing the battery, even if it is the exact same thing.

Hi, I fear it can't be sold separately (at least by a dealer). I've made a quick search on ifinterface.com and it looks like the centre drive shaft bearings are part of the front and rear diff... Maybe you should look for a DSG specialist. He may be able to change the bearing only.

A class 2/3 weather station it sits on a coastal aviation facility, the presence of localized artificial surfaces (such as nearby runways, tarmac, or concrete pads) typically prevents it from achieving a pristine Class 1 rating. Most operational airfield stations of this nature are classified as Class 2 or Class 3 due to these close-proximity heat-absorbing materials. The closest pristine, strictly certified Class 1 climate station in the wider region is the historic Rothamsted weather station in Hertfordshire (82miles). Because true WMO Class 1 stations require completely uninterrupted open fields, zero asphalt, and specific long-term environmental protections, they are exceptionally rare in the urbanised south of England. [1, 2] On Wednesday, 24 June 2026, the peak temperature recorded at Rothamsted reached approximately 31.0°C to 32.0°C, contrasting sharply with the 36.1°C logged at the Fleetlands airfield.

If you have the app, this will allow you to lock/unlock the car without the key/remote. As noted, fob in the cupholder will allow the car to start If you keep spare batteries in the car, bear in mind that the childproof packaging is really really difficult to open.

Skoda technical told me the same bout cameras i get a warning nomatter the speed also told me road closure not available in my app ver even through ive been getting them for 12 months i dont think thay know what thare taking ablot lol.