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Not a car change as such, just a Superb doing what it's great at, 4 people, a boot full of luggage and two bikes going on holiday in complete comfort and still managed mid 40's mpg.

This is my first post, so HELLO (and please excuse me for posting my greeting in the wrong place)! My name is Neil and I live in Nottingham. I just bought 367 yesterday - SD07LWS from Copart Bristol. As you might be able to guess due to where I got it from, it has been written-off as a Cat N. This must have been a terrible shame for someone because otherwise the bodywork is exceptional, it hasn't been modified and it's still got only 79K on the clock. Unfortunately now it has a dented rear nearside quarter about the size of a plate which luckily didn't crack the rear light. I'll be trying to get that sorted soon. I have lots of questions, but can post those elsewhere... All the best, Neil.

First of all, let me start by saying this was neither quick nor easy. My factory Canton subwoofer finally gave up, and my first thought was: “How hard can it be to replace a speaker?” Turns out… very hard. The OEM subwoofer is a 165 mm dual voice coil speaker with 2 x 8Ω impedance, which immediately limits your options. There simply aren’t many replacements available. After quite a bit of searching, I found what seemed to be the best match: Audio System CO 06 D8 EVO Loudspeaker DatabaseAudio System CO 06 D8 EVO - 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8ΩFull technical parameters and comparison: Audio System CO06D8EVO 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8Ω · Xmax 7mm · Resonance 59Hz · Power handling 240W · Sensitivity 80dBUnfortunately, Audio System told me they didn’t have any in stock. After emailing them, I found out the only remaining stock was in Poland. Luckily, I have a friend there who ordered it for me and then shipped it to Romania. If you don’t have Polish friends… well… you might be SOL. Eventually the speaker made its journey from Germany to Poland, Poland to Poland, then Poland to Romania. Then came the next challenge… Removing the enclosure Getting the subwoofer enclosure out of the boot on the sedan is an absolute pain. I practically had to dismantle half the rear of the car, including removing the rear seats. I don’t know if it’s easier on the Estate, but on the sedan it definitely wasn’t a fun job. The mounting problem Once the new speaker arrived, I discovered what many of you probably already know. The mounting holes don’t line up. While searching for solutions, I found this Reddit post from someone who had already done the swap: https://www.reddit.com/r/skoda/comments/1r0vhlb/superb_mk3_canton_subwoofer_update/ His solution works, but it’s a bit of a “make it fit” approach. Personally, I’m the kind of person who likes things to look professional (read it as I’m very particular about these things) whenever possible. So naturally I thought… “I’ll just design and 3D print an adapter.” I’d never opened Fusion 360 before. How hard could it be? …yeah. Thankfully ChatGPT walked me through the whole process step by step, and after a lot of trial and error I ended up with an adapter that fits both the enclosure and the new speaker. I’ll happily share the STL/Fusion files if anyone wants them. If you’re better at CAD than I am, feel free to improve the design. https://www.printables.com/model/1776566-skoda-superb-mk3-subwoofer-flange Gaskets and damping I also bought some EVA foam sheets to use as gaskets between the adapter and the enclosure. Since I had plenty left over, I lined parts of the inside of the enclosure as well. I can’t say exactly how much difference it makes, but it certainly can’t hurt. One final tweak The only thing I couldn’t confidently model before printing was the exact position of the new speaker mounting holes. So I simply drilled those by hand once I had the printed adapter fitted in place. Final thoughts Was it worth it? I’d say yes. It took far longer than I expected, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, and it looks much cleaner than simply forcing the speaker to fit. I’ll be installing it today or tomorrow, and I’ll update this thread once I’ve had a chance to listen to it. I’ll also attach some photos of the process and the finished adapter in case it helps someone else down the road. Later edit,... seriously? 25.76 kB for file attachments?!?

Got round to doing this yesterday, all went well...just followed the video. Being rather elderly I'm rather chuffed. Thanks for the help guys

@Justo Below is a picture of my windscreen. The circular section underneath the camera looks very different to your image. So if the rain sensor sits inside that circle, looking at your image I can see why the intermittent wipe function is not working. It looks like they've done a messy job in that area. Have they applied a sealant there when none is required? I would contact them.

Hi good people I had before Superb 2011 140ps dsg elegance and simply fell in love with the car. Went with it a bit shy of 370k km. But as the family grew, decided to upgrade and picked up last week 2023 superb combi 150ps dsg. Amazing car and I just got it updated to SW 332 (had 330) before, only thanks to this forum and amazing community. Looking forward to exploring the forums and getting to know you and your skodas Kind regards from Vienna

I don't see option at local stations for premium diesel, all seem to be b7 same pumps. Warning came on again this morning it took longer this time for light to go out, about 30 minute drive in 4th gear at 2000+ revs. Not sure if adding the dpf cleaner will make it better or worse! Maybe it will try to regen more then, I think it lowers the temp for regens to happen

Which CEO of a company wouldn't want that? Greetings from one of the largest OEM suppliers.

Tried a 3/4 breaker bar with an adaptor to 1/2. Broke the 1/2 bit on the adaptor. I suppose I'll get more heat and a bigger socket set involved.

I highly doubt that. Skoda-parts.com only sells the bolt with regular threads and going back and forth with the impact didn't budge it.

But that is the cancer that industry suffers from, either bringing everything in house to make greater margins, or the opposite.farming all production out to subcontractors who are only intreasted in maxing profits.

@Graham Butcher Skoda & VW Group never actually bothered about Vorsprung durch Technik. Even if they are in there early with technology they can still be messing up years later and instead of evolving and improving they coc-k up time after time. Lots of that was when they thought they knew best or could do stuff cheaper and took software development inhouse.

Agree, but it would seem that Skoda must have been early adopters of these aids as my car is 2019 and the Superb before that had them on a 2016 plate.

All of these driver assist aids can actually work against you at times, especially if the software has a glitch. This morning in traffic, the car in front of me slowed because of a jam. I also braked, but somehow, my car thought I never braked hard enough, and slammed the anchors on hard and the ABS cut in. While it was bringing me to a complete halt, all the traffic in front of me had cleared, and there were several car lengths ahead of me, empty. It was a good job; the car behind me was far enough back to avoid ramming me.

Hi I'm a rather new octavia mk2 owner from Finland. Threads here have proved to be useful so made an account to post my own questions too.

The Tiguan ones were just fine. I bought my Tiguan in 2019 and replaced the wipers four years later. All good. Besides that, I already swapped the OEM wipers on the Skoda for Bosch ones. They seem much better, but I’ll wait for the rain to give a final opinion. Thanks to everyone who responded.

Think the sponge is supposed to stop crud getting into sill etc but it doesnt work. When I did my timing belt I did as you and cleaned and waxoil behind plastic liner. Mine was really bad and managed to fill a bucket of crud from both sides. Think it stops larger particles but my sill and surrounding area was full of very fine silt. Probably why the start rusting there. I used a power washer to blast as much as I could out. I did replace sponge but will probably remove every year or two and clean again. Alasdair

I've got a link in a post last friday about 7 or 8 posts above which has it. Unzip to an empty USB stick in the root, plug it in, press and hold Menu button which will reboot the MIB into engineering mode (black screen with small red font) and follow the logic on there; its all touch screen and some options seem to need selecting twice. Otherwise, if I can do it without an instruction manual, you're good to go.

there's an option for a fold flat seat - but I think not many people took it or no-one knows about it

Some MG electric owners are reporting that their cars try to steer into parked cars so they only follow white lines anything between them is apparently invisible to the system?

Next. FP Maintenance.pdf

One more. The problem is, I'm limited to a max of 20MB on the Freedom Lite package. I'm trying to upgrade to Freedom which gives 50MB but they want to charge me another £10 instead of the £4 difference. Some files won't be able to be uploaded as it is. FP Chassis axles steering.pdf Next. FP Fuel system - Petrol engines.pdf

We could be here a while!! FP Heating Air conditioning.pdf Wheels - Tyres 2.pdf

Next lot! FP Fuel supply.pdf General information – body.pdf Safety and repair instructions.pdf Wheels - Tyres 1.pdf

Second lot. FP Brake systems.pdf Driver assistance systems.pdf

Sorry, but the fact millions, as you say, do it does not make it ethically right or safe. OK, so there is some sort of protection built in to cut the solar panels if they lose mains supply, so what if that fails to operate and someone were to extract the 13A plug top that is feeding the solar power to the house from the socket? That would leave the exposed pins of the solar installation still happily connected to 230V AC supply via the panels and inverter. What if one of your children or wife were then to touch that plug and get electrocuted? This is the reason why the industry is refusing to do the installs for their customers; they are the professionals and can see the real dangers the system poses to life. It does not meet the criteria for public safety; it is what happens when things get rushed through development. and governments (who don't have any clue or experience) get involved chasing an idealistic dream. There are loads of things where the government gets it so wrong time and time again. You think they are your side? Think again; they aren't. They are simply attempting to implement what they are told to do by those where the real power resides, and all the time the UK is being bled dry, and all money flows out of the country into the banks of overseas companies and individuals, and it has been for decades. As for the Chinese electric cars, they are not better at all, just better priced with corners being cut and overall poor quality. Have you ever looked at the MG electric car owners' forums, for example, and seen just how unhappy people are with their cars? The same goes for the others: Ommoda, Jeycoo, BYD, etc. The other person's grass is always greener, except it really isn't.

Moin and welcome to Briskoda 👋

It probably is the automatic tensioner of the seatbelt. However i do notice my seat belt actually tightening a bit when it is done and never heard a sound. Always happens when you just started the car and drive away.

Hello everyone, I have a Mk1 1.8T 4x4 Octavia [2002 year, ARX Engine] Hatch. I recently retrofitted cruise control using an original loom brought off Ebay. I used this guide to help me fit the cruise control and referenced everything using other sources of information online and the included wiring diagram for my ECU the ME7.5. http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/cruise_control/1-8T_Cruise_Control.htm After installing the loom following the guide I now have the code 17977 / P1569 Cruise Control Switch (E45): Implausible Signal I've been stumped on this for quite a while having gone through a couple of stalks now and also ending up doing multiple continuity tests / voltage tests back probing the ecu to ensure the signal is actually reaching the ecu from the stalk. The code also reappears whenever the stalks status is switched to on suggesting the ECU isn't happy about the logic being sent from the stalk. In VCDS using measuring block 066 in the Switch Positions II 8 bit counter with the stalk switched on I get 00000100 switched off it is 00000000. I have also checked the clutch and brake switch and both flip the bits accordingly it seems. I'm honestly not sure now whether its a wiring / pinout issue despite me looking at countless wiring diagrams and confirming I've pinned / connected everything up correctly or an issue on the ECU input / software side. Thank you for any help or insight

Very tricky to see the terminal numbers on the engine ecu plugs, wouldn’t be surprised if one wasn’t correct

Almost certain it is the infamous wastegate rattle, it sounds exactly like how my start ups sounded before I mounted a clip on the actuator rod to limit the play (and thus minimizing the rattle). What you can do is (when cold) grab a hold of the actuator rod directly after starting the engine, you should hear a difference as in the rattle will disappear and appear when holding/releasing the rod.

Not seen a Nissan Bluebird in years. 2.0 SLX. Not pristine but not a spot of tin worm.

The traffic sign recognition tries it's best. In the UK it is hampered by very poor maintenance of road signs. It's a guide at best and always worth remembering that. If can be outsmarted by signs on the rear of trucks or by misaligned signs on side roads.

I confirm you can fit 4x 19" wheels/tyres in the Superb Estate boot. Very convenient.

We are in danger of forgetting how to drive

Loaded up once again. This time with about 150kg of flat pack units to fit out the new utility room. Including some panels at 2.6m long! I did put the roof bars on just in case but managed to squeeze them inside by reclining the passenger seat right back and feeding them through onto the dash.

A partially blocked strainer for me caused oil pressure issues. I’d recommend pulling sump off and cleaning. May be worth just getting a new strainer and seal as they’re very cheap. Could even get an oil pump for approximately £40 too

hi first post here, im the new owner of #363 in stoke on trent loving owning it so far just needs some tlc, such as new wheels or a refurb. besides from that the body work and interior is pretty good