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As a Chartered Electrical Engineer I have to agree with @Graham Butcher about safety concerns, in every other area of electrical safety the system is designed so that there has to be two unrelated failures before it becomes unsafe. With plug-in solar using a UK standard 13A there is only a single point failure (in the inverter) for an unplugged 13A plug to become live - so it fails the basic electrical safety requirement. This could easily be corrected by requiring they be fitted with a plug having shielded pins such as an IEC type, and requiring the installation of a mating wall mounted socket. If I were still employed the terms of being a Chartered Engineer would require me to refuse any instruction to install one of these systems while fitted with a UK standard 13A plug.

Just back from the garage. Full boroscope inspection done and a wisp of oil in cylinders 1 and 3. Everything as normal otherwise, no scoring. Also compression test done and only cylinder 3 was slightly down but still within tolerance. Small amount of oil in turbo intake pipe but turbo boosting properly. Mechanic says there is excessive suction at the PCV despite a new one being fitted and he can't get his head around it. He's phoning a VAG specialist friend tomorrow for his opinion on where to start with that. He says that is where the oil consumption will be happening. New spark plugs fitted and the car seems to be driving better than before. He says the ones in the car were well past their replacement due date. They were only 60k miles old as well!!!! So hopefully it's not piston rings or turbo.

Had a bit of a supprise on sunday morning after charging to 80%. The guessometer showing 356 miles! on my Elroq 85 edition. Did not see this level last summer. This is over more that 100 miles more compared with what was achieved during the winter'

A couple of recent photos......... And what I think is a Whooper Swan (at the local reservoir)?

Thank you for the endorsement. I have been in the electrical industry all my life, having left school and gone straight into an electrical apprenticeship and spending almost 8 years in college acquiring 3 City and Guilds certificates at a pretty high level, alongside other qualifications to enable me to become a college lecturer in electrical engineering and an instructor for the apprentices in my control. This was because my employer at that time was planning to open up their internal college to train future engineers. This was when I was employed by Eastern National Omnibus Company (ENOC). This was part of the National Bus Company when there was a joined-up transport system consisting of buses, road haulage (British Road Services, known as BRS) and, of course, British Rail. I chose that route to enter the profession because of my love for electricity and also motor vehicles, so that combined 2 passions for me. I have continued within the profession until I retired in 2016, during which time I was approached by many electrical consulting companies to join them but preferred to remain more on the hands-on side of the industry. I just hope and pray that the possible failures never happen, but judging by the sheer number of reports about modern safety systems on cars failing, such as ghost emergency braking, etc., I cannot accept that it's not going to happen, which, as you correctly pointed out, could all be prevented by the addition of a shielded interface system like the IEC type.

At 10K per year, probably a little wasteful to change oil twice a year, unless only ever running less than 5-10 miles every trip - annual changes would be fine.

Is the new PCV installed correctly and is it a good or genuine one. If a cheap ebay rip-off it may still be letting alot of oil past More likely oil entering combustion chamber. Oil or soot? If Oil, then its probably not the poor fuel ratio, maybe the poor AF ratio and injection codes are a symptom of Oil getting onto the O2 sensor If it was soot, then its all about the AF ratio

Really? Have they all replaced it then to confirm their flat-out statements? With the time and effort you’ve invested so far, and the original battery being close to EOL, I’d just replace it. It got to that stage with the factory battery on our car and I waited too long and found it dead one morning. In Ireland. 🙄

Don't know if this is your issue, but I had the same symptoms a couple of years ago which was caused by a failing turbo actuator (P334A). Got it replaced at a garage and it's been good ever since

And your qualifications are what, precisely? You may be willing to take a risk; I'm not. I'm all for solar panels; I have 13 of them on my roof, and yes, I could, if I wanted to, make contact with live connections, BUT I would have to use a tool to do it, and by definition, I would be deemed to know what I was doing. But a lead connected to a 13A BS1363 plug lying around on the floor, etc., is something that we have become accustomed to, safe in the knowledge that it is 100% safe to pick up because it was wired to a load, NOT a generator.

No, its not BS, it's 100% true unless something happens to derail it. The system apparently relies heavily on software and electronics which detects the steady frequency of grid-supplied power to keep the mini inverter operational. I and the rest of the UK electrical industry fear that it is a matter of time before that system will fail with someone potentially being electrocuted. Its a shame that someone did not design a dedicated interface that does not use a 13A plug top with its always-exposed pins, which would completely remove its current weak link. But I fear that once again, people with little real knowledge are making knee-jerk decisions in order to keep their political goals on course. In the meantime all we can do is keep our fingers crossed that the feared event never actually happens.

Has the world gone completely crazy in the big push for net zero? It would appear that the UK government has now given the green light for the proposed plug-in solar system as of the 27th of August 2026. using a factory-installed and connected 13A BS1363 plugtop but still subject to certain stipulations. A maximum of 800W power out from the inverter must be supplied as an approved kit. You cannot assemble your own kit of parts, i.e., source your own solar panels and a microinverter and connect them together. You also cannot use storage batteries and currently only a single kit per household. So it seems the whole system has been rushed through after just a 2-week consultation period. Unless there is a serious strong backlash from the electrical industry, it will now be a matter of sitting back and waiting for the first failure of the system, and it will happen.

Hello everyone, I would like to give feedback to this topic: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534598-overheating-problem-skoda-superb-year-2018/ Brothers from the Skoda Superb Facebook group in Turkey solved my problem. The problem was the lower bumper grille shutters. They were stuck. I removed the shutters, and now the coolant temperature no longer rises above 90°C under normal driving conditions. It reaches a maximum of 100°C when I drive at 230 km/h with an outside temperature of 26°C. The oil temperature is still quite high, but I think this is either a different issue or simply normal for these cars. Best regards

Hi Jackel, Yeah, roads are bloody awful at moment, spend most of your time dodging potholes! I have noticed that they're also quite jarring in the 130 if you go in one... I've been searching for a set of 17" steel wheel to fit winters on but hopefully winters a long way off yet! Are the OEM 18" wheels 7J x ET51 do you know?

How much engine oil is being used? Have a compression test done on engine.

Home or low tariff charging is damn cheap travelling by car. Simples, and then for Business use there are the saving in Tax to take into account. Simples. Many New BEV,s no matter who bought or owned them are now with others. Bought as 2nd hand / Used / Cherished vehicles. As long as there are First Registered BEV,s there are are growing numbers on the roads or SORN'd / In Trade. Maybe time that SOLAR PANELS discussions and Battery Storage etc and the technicalities had a thread of it's own.

This looks very unrealistic, isn't that more than you'd expect even from 100%? I wonder how you car arrived at this. My last drive was 8 km downhill with negative consumption (it told me -7.3 kWh per 100 km) and still it doesn't give a wild guess like this.

Nope, it felt fine, just suddenly a loss of power. I've got a guy coming round tomorrow to do a diagnostic on it for £60, some places wanted almost three times that or said they couldn't look at it for two weeks!

Did it feel like the engine was running rough before the EPC indicator lit up? If the spark plugs have never been replaced (unlikely) very probably a cause. Not impossible for the turbo actuator arm to have become 'sticky' again though.

If you’re switching off the motor and the fan still runs for a few minutes, that shows two (possible ) issues. The first and most normal is your turbo is very hot and needs cooling down - just run at tick over for a couple of minutes to safely cool it down. The other and more problematic issue is you’ve switch off when a DPF regen is in progress. This causes 2 (or more?) issues. One the added diesel injected waters down your engine oil. Not by much but if this is happening every day then it will increase over time. The 2nd and one you will notice. On restarting the engine will start a regen again - running at 1,00 rpm instead of about 800 rpm is a good sign. You need to run a longer distance 40km or so on a fast road every 7/10 days this should (provided you DPF is in need of work) resolve your problems. I had this engine in my last Passat Estate, ran it for about 138,000kms before trading it to my Superb. As my work was about 35km on the motorway both ways never had an issue

Seems like plug-in solar has a decent safety record. At least here in Germany. https://energiewende.bundeswirtschaftsministerium.de/EWD/Redaktion/EN/Newsletter/2025/01/Meldung/direkt-account.html https://www.solarwirtschaft.de/en/2025/12/17/din-vde-worlds-first-standard-for-plug-in-solar-devices/ https://www.dw.com/en/mini-plug-in-solar-panels-are-they-worth-it/a-66240262 https://www.conow.com/blog/balcony-solar-overload-risk-germany-800w-safety

Factory fit can be either AGM or EFB - My MY16 Octavia came from the factory with an AGM - replaced, along with alternator, with a Moll EFB under warranty after 6 months.

So I’ve just spun the fan. A little flick with my finger and it spun freely. 🤷‍♂️

Do this, before it gets to 120 degrees preferably....maybe as soon as it starts to rise over 100 Id spin the fan by hand and make sure there isn't something jambing it. Maybe string or something wrapped around it close to the shaft Maybe it needs new bearings or you may be able to lubricate the fan bearing with a squirt of WD40 as a very stop gap solution. Need to open up the bearing cover so that may be hard work/poor access. Replace fan motor??

From factory they come with EFB+ batteries. If it's changed to AGM, then the battery type needs to b changed to "Fleece". Also....it's 3 yrs, so it's about time to start dying, in hence time to replace.

VCDS will show us everything we need to know then?

You could always check on the opieoils website to see which "weight" or options of "weight" of engine oil you could use to start with. I'd think that it will be a 0W-?? that will be suggested so that you can retain the emissions and fuel economy that the manufacturer quoted - but then maybe you'd rather go for slightly better protection and so aim for a 5W-30 oil. It might depend on what sort of annual mileage you typically do in this car, for years I've stuck with Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 which is an oil that claims to a bit more tolerant to LSPI which many modern DI petrol engines can end up suffering from probably due to slight misuse - but there again my cars are not brand new, don't have variable oil pressure control and have not been marketed to be used with 0W-?? engine oils.

I bags the red one.

How many miles on the car, when were the spark plugs replaced?. It needs read for any Logged Fault Codes. eg Misfires. It could have had enough in a cycle to have the EPC light show & into Limp Mode. Maybe just not the Engine / Emissions light.

Hi all, After all that, it was related to either the front shocks or springs. I’d convinced myself that the sound had got better from swapping the tyres front to back but the sound came back and I just accepted it. I got new front shocks and springs on Friday and the noise has totally gone as has a considerable amount of road noise! The difference is very noticeable. Took a while to get to the bottom of it but suspect it was the shocks resulting in excessive vibration at certain speeds.

Upper strut brace won't do much good, same as other MQB/MQBevo plattforms. The chassis is already more than stiff enough between the towers with how its built. What will help from my own experience on the plattform is a anti-rollbar kit, subframe alignment kit front/rear, chassisbrace behind rear seat, dogbone mount, and a good combo springs and dampers.

From the Karoq Skoda manual. "Wheel changes. For uniform wear on all tyres, we recommend that you change the wheels every 10,000 km according to the schedule. Advice for tyre assembly. › With directional tires, the correct direction of rota- tion must be observed. The direction of rotation of the tyres is marked by arrows on the wall of the tyre. › Always replace the tyres by the axle." But hey, what do Skoda and practically every other car manufacturer and tyre fitting company know about it? You do what you think is right for your own safety and that of all your family!

This sounds like scaremongering. With normal use you will have slightly more wear on different tyres unless you religously swap wheels round very regularly. Yes it can be dangerous if one tyre on an axle is brand new and the other only has 2mm. i.e. above wear limit. New tyres should ideally be on the REAR axle as this axle looses grip first in extreme situations - hard breaking on wet surface or hard cornering. If I have a nail in the tyre and it cannot be patched it is not recommended to replace all 4 tyres if the others still have e.g. 4mm. You can do this of course if you want to spend £600 to £1000 for quality tyres. Chinese ditch finders may be cheaper. The Karoq 4x4 is not a performance car and can easily handle one new tyre as long as the others are still fine.

205/55R16 6Jx16 ET35 isn't in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity)...hence it isn't approved by Skoda. 205/55R16 6Jx16 ET35 could be used as a spare because spare wheels don't have to be in the CoC...but this is an economy measure, so it would be better to use a wheel specification that's in the car's CoC. In strict European countries, the wheels on the car (not including the spare wheel that's used as a temporary get you home measure) need to be in the car's CoC. So if it's 16" wheels on the Kamiq, the only specifications are 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 (winter tyre size, but can also be used with summer and all-season tyres), 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38 and 205/60R16 ET40.

What he said. While modern AWD systems can easily cope with differences in tyres (Haldex, Torsen, xDrive, 4MATIC, PTM, Magna, etc) it’s always best practice to keep things as similar as possible. This isn’t just for safety and symmetry with regard to grip, but also for making the system work less. Think of it this way - the system already works hard enough to put the power down evenly, depending on which wheel has the most traction, etc - why make it work even harder by having different tyres with different levels of grip, etc? As a rule of thumb, new tyres should always be fitted on the same axle, unless the “old” tyre is the same brand and in almost new condition. New tyres should always be fitted to the rear of the vehicle.

I beleive that while you can change a single tyre on a car, of any make or drive, it is always beat practise to replace tyres in pairs on the same axle for safety reasons, especially for a 4x4 like the Skoda Karoq, to ensure balanced grip and handling. Replacing just one tyre can lead to uneven performance and potential safety issues.

I actually don't think that's correct - it's more a case of catering and protecting the lowest common denominator - namely kids or those eligible for Darwin Awards that would pull the plug and stick their tongue on it to see if it was working (and lets face it there are A LOT of those sorts of idiots around. And this ^^ is the solution to the aforementioned issue - it's easy to do by simple replacement of an existing 3-pin outlet with a bespoke socket on each ring main and a corresponding shielded and fused plug on the inverter - just as we have on EVs. Cost would be minimal, as per the cost of a replacement 3-pin outlet (a couple of quid these days), and it resolves the issues of potential electrocution in the event of the plug being removed with the inverter still 'live'. I really don't see what the issue is and why this cannot be incorporated into any legislation that comes forward allowing plug in solar to be made legal - it's not rocket science just common sense (but then a lot of politicians and others wanting it allowed clearly don't have that!).

It would really help if I can get few more owner to provide their car details. I want to see whuch trims and years are affected. Heading to a Europe soon, hopefully I can see how Matrix is behaving at night while driving on wrong 😂 side of the road. Appointment and courtesy car booked, I will update once the diagnostic is done. The aim is to get it hopefully sorted and get TPI issued. Once I have my complain and TPI details from Executive Office I can share it so you guys can claim repair too😎

Any Youtube video which starts with that patronising "wagging finger" gesture gets stopped instantly! 🤣

JMSkoda94 I've had exactly the same symptons as you describe in your original post regards the coolant loss, which started about 4 months ago, plus the heating from the blowers has been virtually non existant for the last two years. I've just had the heater matix replaced (which was virtually blocked), heater blowers now work great, plus i have diven over 200 miles and no coolant loss, 50 miles completed in one drive. Hope i'm not speaking too soon but touchwood all good at present. Will report back if not as successful as first impressions.

You might be able to access it by removing gearstick bellows/cover. I assume if its dropped through though something has broken. Alasdair

UPDATE: Direct Technical Validation & Expanding the Global Dataset (16K Views!) First of all, a massive thank you to the community. Crossing 16,000 views on this thread highlights just how many premium Facelift owners are silently tracking this safety issue. 1. Cross-Border Engineering Confirmation (The Polish Connection) Over the weekend, I expanded our technical research into the European Škoda networks (specifically superbclub.pl). The data coming back from Left-Hand Drive (LHD) European drivers is an absolute engineering revelation.Multiple owners of late-model Facelift Superbs (including flagship 2023 280HP SportLine models) have confirmed the exact parallel matrix dropout behavior on empty Continental expressways. When accelerating to expressway speeds in AUTO mode, their lighting processors aggressively shut down the left and center sectors of the road for no logical reason. The Technical Core: This cross-border data perfectly validates our underlying architectural theory. It proves that the "Highway Mode" satellite navigation mapping logic embedded across the global MQB platform codebase is fundamentally flawed. In Europe, this aggressive left-side masking is a severe design oversight that limits vision; but when mirrored onto UK Right-Hand Drive (RHD) vehicles without reversing the geometric coordinates, it creates a critical safety hazard—completely blacking out our actual UK driving lanes and slip roads while over-extending the right beam over the central barrier into oncoming traffic. 2. Current Case Status with Škoda UK Executive Office My formal technical addendum, backed by our crowdsourced community data and definitive motorway video telemetry, is currently under active review by Customer Relations Management at head office.Following a premature attempt to close the file at their desk, I have firmly rejected the closure. The case file remains fully active as "Pending Retailer Assessment" ahead of my specialized, factory-authorized diagnostic slot at Faintree Shrewsbury on Monday, 24 August 2026. I have also placed a formal demand for a fully covered courtesy car to resolve the family transport logistics caused by this extended factory logging session. 3. Continuous Data Gathering (Keep the DMs Coming!) Ahead of the August inspection, I am continuing to compile our anonymized global tracking list. If your car suffers from this high-speed motorway matrix collapse, please drop a comment below or send me a private message with just your: Vehicle Make & Model Model Year Country Variant (UK/RHD or Europe/LHD) Note: For absolute cyber security and data privacy, please DO NOT send your VIN or registration number. We only require the model specification to map the software trend. Thank you again for the incredible momentum. I will update the thread soon!

Thanks to everyone who has been reading and sharing the thread over the weekend—the view count has just cleared 15.7k! As a quick reminder, I am actively compiling a centralized registry of affected vehicles to pass to the Volkswagen Group technical risk teams. If you drive a 2019+ Facelift model with Matrix LEDs (Superb, Passat, Octavia, Golf, etc.) and have noticed your headlights masking the near-side curb or acting delayed on the motorway, please drop a quick reply below or send me a DM with just your: Vehicle Make & Model Model Year Country Variant (UK/RHD or Europe/LHD) No VINs or personal details needed—let's keep you anonymous and build a solid case list to show the engineers!

Many thanks. If anyone of Briskoda members is active on other forums of VW, Seat and Audi cars, could you please share this thread? Issue is affecting users of many VAG vehicles and the more members will get back to me, the biggest leverage we will have in this campaign. Specifically forums like VWROC (Volkswagen R Owners Club), Audi-sport. net and CupraForums. 👌

Going up from 288x25mm, there's two choices...either 306x26mm or 312x25mm. Below, I've just looked at the 312x25mm size. It might also be worth looking at 314x30mm from the Kodiaq MK1 (non-standard on the Octavia MK4) as this should still allow for 16" wheels to clear the front brake calipers. 314x30mm are very powerful because they are based on the 340x30mm brakes, eg. same calipers. The 312x25mm front brake discs are the same on both the Octavia MK4 and Kodiaq MK1...therefore it would make sense for the 314x30mm front brake discs to also fit the Octavia MK4. 312x25mm front brakes 1ZK (Octavia MK4) (TRW brake system) Left front brake caliper TRW BHX585E https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/8v0615123d?supplier%5B%5D=833 Right front brake caliper TRW BHX586E https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/8v0615124d?supplier%5B%5D=833 Left front brake caliper carrier TRW BDA1180 https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TRW-BDA1180-Holder-Brake-Calliper/dp/B00N5TY9Y6/ref=sr_1_1 Right front brake caliper carrier TRW BDA1181 https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TRW-Caliper-Holder-BDA1181-Compatible/dp/B00N5TYA90/ref=sr_1_ Front brake pads TRW GDB1956 https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TRW-GDB1956-GDB1956-LUC-FPS-Brake-Pads/dp/B0113713JA/ref=sr_1_1gUFhRN7JQ54K0c&dib_tag=se&keywords=trw%2Bgdb1956&qid=1783797717&sprefix=TRW%2BGDB1956%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-1&th=1 312x25mm front brake discs ATE PowerDisc https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/958240

I'm going to go with battery on this one. Too often it's the battery, and for no direct simple reason.

I've not known rain to be related but god knows. May be worth getting the battery tested - you want to use a battery tester that gives you the State of Health and State of Charge as well as I thin taking readings when the engine is running and when not. More informed people on here will know (try some searches on battery testing). Otherwise, 5 years is squarely within the very wide end-of life span for batteries - you cold shortcut the above and just get it replaced (including using something like VCDS/OBD11 to tell the car the new battery is in and what type).

Bilstein B4 22-183712 and Bilstein B6 35-250852 are correct because they are listed against the 1K0413031BL OEM part number. The Yeti also uses the 1K0413031BL OEM part number on some models, and the Octavia MK2 with increased ride height is using Yeti suspension...hence when the Bilstein listings list the Yeti, that is actually reassuring. When looking for suitable aftermarket shock absorbers it's best to use the OEM part number to decide if it will fit rather than descriptions such as what vehicle it fits...because those descriptions are often incomplete and/or misleading. The listing for Sachs 560 287 front shock absorbers lists thirty two OEM part numbers, at least one of which is a lowered ride height front shock absorber (1K0413031BJ). Therefore, it looks like either of the above mentioned Bilsteins would be a better match. Notice below how similar the entries are in the Octavia MK2 and Yeti parts catalogues for the 1K0413031BL front shock absorbers. The L60, L61, and L66 front springs for the Octavia MK2 with increased ride height (aka heavy duty suspension) are the same as the L60, L61, and L66 front springs for the Yeti. Octavia MK2 parts catalogue 8 1K0413031BL Front shock absorber for models with heavy duty suspension 2 PR:G02+2UB+ L60,L61,L66 Yeti parts catalogue 8 1K0413031BL Front shock absorber PR:G02+L60, L61,L66,L67

In the 1st picture, the silver Merc's in the way ?! In the 2nd picture, the black Merc's in the way ?! Any other pictures? 😉