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Car was MOT'd this morning. Passed with no advisories. 😁

Finally, it lives. First start and test drive complete no obvious leaks and its does feel better to drive. Something we both noticed was previously the engine was hunting and canting back and forth a bit, that’s all gone as is an odd noise it was making. I feel like that could well have been the head lifting and gasses escaping so something to look out for. First drive and everything was working getting heat in the cabin and all seems well. Left it at the shed last night on the 4 post to just confirm no leaks but all being well it’ll be back on the road and with luck all my issues will be resolved and I shall close out the thread at that point. IMG_9100.mov

If on a straight flat road you put it in gear and release the brakes. The car will move up to a speed without accelerating. Once it is doing that speed it is not creeping it is driving slowly clutches are fully engaged. So I therefore think if you are braking to keep the speed below that the car must have to "ride" the clutch. With a friction clutch that means wear but as long as you are not revving it at the same time the wear is "as expected" and should last over 60,000 miles . The bigger torque gearboxes use metal plates with oil pressure regulation the danger to these are heat and contamination in the oil reducing it's cooling effectiveness. In some models of dsg (don't think vw is one of them) the same oil in the gearbox runs through the mechatronic unit which causes severe problems if not maintained properly. So if you look after it don't abuse it, like holding it on a hill with the accelerator pressed, that's what auto hold was invented for. The clutches should last the current manufacturers " lifetime" expectations which I think is aimed at 100,000 miles Like @Evolution13 asks it would help if we knew what the engine and gearbox in @Cqrmine car is. Most 2 litres are DQ381 with the odd 1.5 but the majority below that would be DQ200 from what i can see. "The dry-clutch DQ200 gearbox has a hard mechanical limit of 250 Nm of torque. Any engine producing that amount or less gets the DQ200. Any engine producing more torque is mechanically forced to use a heavy-duty wet-clutch unit"

The heat pump is £1150 or thereabouts for a small increase in overall efficiency. Maybe 10-15 miles extra range in winter? £1000 buys a hell of a lot of electricity, so the heat pump is poor value.

Could also be a bad ignition switch especially if it works when turning key fast or fiddling about with it Pump I assume will prime at pre ignition etc but it may not be making proper contact when turning to start. Could also be loose connector/broken cable at back of switch. Alasdair

I have a 2025 Kodiaq SE L diesel. The first service is due at the end of next month by which time I will have done approx 2000 miles. My dealer recommends a Skoda approved full service to maintain the warranty at a cost of £412. Seems very expensive to me. What are the experiences of other new owners?

Couple of shots from today. Revisited a railway bridge previously snapped and went up to the firth of fourth.

all done, not the sensor just the o ring/ seal

I'll second the SGS Engineering struts. I replaced my original ones with ones ordered from here in August 2019 and seven years on they are still working perfectly. So they've lasted a year longer than the OEM ones!! From memory I had a small problem with the locking pin (?), emailed them and received different pins in the post a couple of days later which solved the problem. I like a company that gives a no fuss service.

Side (or 'marker') lights aren't intended to 'light up' anything - they are a visual reference for oncoming traffic and pedestrians.

Apologies for taking this slightly off-topic, but just a quick thanks again to those of you above for helping with this. I took the plunge a couple of days ago with a Kodiaq 2023 (I had been forced into making a change of vehicle, otherwise I would have been quite happy where I was). Early days yet, but so far it does all feel reasonably similar to the older Octavia wrt controls and surrounds. Lots to now get my head around. Avocet, I asked the dealer (at purchase) about the Certificate of Conformity - he said that was the only the second time he'd ever been asked, the previous time being for an export (a legal requirement where the buyer was going)... /innocent face I blamed Briskoda for my impertinence. He told me he's going to e-mail it.... :)

I believe those are LEDs, I think very unlikely to be as simple as 'changing a bulb'

It’s a possibility I guess, though they’re definitely not painted. It had occurred to me they’ve just faded as it’s lived outside for at least 5 years, though you’d expect that to be a bit variable over the car as a whole if it were that. It’s the two part numbers that’s confusing me. Why have two if they’re all satin black? I might get some 7DL and test it.

They are taking the Pith!. Totally. A full service is not required at 12 months / 9,400 miles, Fixed Service Regime. The car left the factory on Variable / Flexible servicing. If it was reset to Fixed then an Oil and Filter change is all that is required. Or Interim. Oil & Filter and a look see. Not a 2nd year / Major service. That is Oil & Filter, Pollen filter and look see, and brake fluid changed if you follow their Schedule / Advice. Oil & Inspection Year 1 or Year 2, or both years. Oil & Inspection Service year 3 & extended scope. Haldex Service year 3 / 30,000 miles. Spark Plugs year 4 / 40,000 miles. They will up-sell AC servicing year 2. DSG DQ381 @ 80,000 miles or sooner. Be sure the filter is replaced. HAVE the Air Filter inspected every service, not left till 6 years / 60,000 miles. Lazy barstewards.

My Enyaq was also 6 months old when I bought it and although I didn't see the SOH certificate prior to buying it came with all the other documents. These are all alsoheld electronically through the dealership website.

Hi, I think it really depends on the country and the level of map coverage. Today on my trip, I saw this kind of magic for the first time. I was guided in exactly the right lane. And of course, for the first time, I enjoyed the automatic acceleration to the newly recognized speed limit and slowing down according to the road signs.

AI says, As vedicle is outside it's original 3-year manufacturer warranty, consider these avenues to manage the cost: Ask for Škoda "Goodwill": If you have a full Škoda main dealer service history, ask the service manager to submit a goodwill contribution request to Škoda UK. Because TPI 2065531/1 acknowledges a known manufacturing design tolerance issue, they sometimes cover a percentage of the labor or parts.

@Stonekeeper Absolutely agree. I drive many different manual gearbox vehicles (cars, vans, minibuses) - petrol and diesel) all of them (except one) will pull away from rest on a level surface without any throttle and allow the clutch to fully engage with out slipping or stalling. As you have described the DSG does exactly the same. The one exception is very much off topic. My 1983 Metro 1.3 HLE has a very high final drive ratio so does need a little throttle @Evolution13 is right to seek clarification as there are subtle differences or nuances with the various engine/dsg combinations, I mentioned a few I had experienced in an earlier post. @Cqrmine I personally don't think you have anything to worry about enjoy your new Karoq.

Sounds very much like the drive shaft splines need to be re-glued. (Yes! Glued!) I've had MEB cars for over 5 years and this issue has been raised a number of times on various forums. There is a clicking sound from the rear when moving off (forward or reverse) and when going over to full re-gen. The splines on the drive shafts have movement caused by the adhesive used on them failing. All cases I've heard about have been covered by warranty or extended warranty. Worth a Google.

Here's what I got with a plate of welders mask glass taped to my Pixel 9a

It's probably less wear than on a manual clutch because the car is doing it not the driver,

I have, but wanted to get it running first! 😆

Have you considered fitting hood gas struts to that lovely beast?

Odd it does it at cold start. Wonder if its a poor connection somewhere thats bad when cold and when warm it expands making better contact or perhaps cranking cold engine is dropping voltage too low and causing errors. Check battery voltage when cold cranking? Hope you get to the bottom of it Alasdair

Connector replaced and tests done. Wiring for tail-, turn-, brake lights and ground was straight forward. The switch in the connector and the extra wire was used to disable the rear fog lights on the car when a trailer is connected. I could not identify that the wire was used for anything else and the car have no rear parking sensor. Somewhat confusing and took some time to figure out, was that the original wiring in the car do only include wiring to the left rear fog light. But the trailer connector wiring which plugs in between the original wiring at each rear light did connect both rear fog lights. Thanks again Alasdair

The only time I get that symbol on the dash is when I engage sport mode. The two green ‘arcs’ move towards the rear of the car image as I accelerate so I’ve always assumed it’s some kind of half-baked G meter (or whatever they’re called). Either way I find it completely pointless.

Just in case anyone is interested. I took my key to my local Timpsoms, they wanted £220. Went to a local locksmiths, who put me in touch with a local auto tech place, where they cut a new key, provided a new case with my “inners” inside it, for £50. So quite happy with that.

Great stuff Breezy_Pete. That's just what I need. I've got access to a hydraulic press but I'll get Gen2 tool kit to be on the safe side. Thanks a lot.

The one i got had the groove so more like a groment. Guess an O rings fine if it does the job. Some jobs you just have to do yourelf, i hate being blatantly ripped off!

I had this come up as an advisory (the only one!) on the last MOT and I just got one from ebay. the OG one was quite cracked and the replacement was just a large O-Ring. (the OG one had the groove all the way around it but the new one did not) it doesn't appear to have caused a problem. it closes, it clicks, it seals.) I'd have been livid if I'd been told over £60 to replace that!

We need to know what system you have. I can't remember how to bring up the system info.

Lots of things last longer than five years.

Seal came today. Really easy fit, just need something to hook the old seal out. The old seal was quite compressed, i think it stopped clicking as well when you tighten the cap up. It clicks again now. £3.25 delivered, much better than the £64 Skoda quoted to just change the seal... Pic is the old one, the cracks are quite obvious once you get it in the light.

Had, rather than has. Up until a few years ago (2023) when they dropped 5 year recommendations in the UK. I don't believe that applied only to engines made from 2023 onwards.

I withdrew from my Škoda finance agreement last year after 11 days (within the 14 day period) on a 3 month old used Karoq I had to pay £72.38 interest ( £6.58 per day) but retained all the incentives that were given at that time, £250 Škoda Contribution, 2 years roadside assistance and two services.

Wire to starter motor solenoid gradually breaking, just outside the cable entry of the connector at solenoid plug, generally.

Didn't bother with the eclipse, decided to continue with a series of shots of the ECML

Funnily enough, I wondered about using an extreme ND filter to see the eclipse, but luckily remembered it didn't have any UV protection, so it would still have been potentially dangerous. I was surprised to see a chap on the BBC website saying he damaged his eyes in the last eclipse, looking at the sun through a welder's mask. I would have thought this would have been sufficient, but I've since read they aren't usually filtered enough. Something to do with a rating of 12 or above being needed (I assume this is pretty dark?)

Quick shot in the field, i did drag my sideskirts on the ground just a bit 😁

Sennheiser. My bluetooth cordless rechargable ones have served me well for about ten years now

go by your bladder range - how far can you drive without stopping? I say bladder but it might also be fatigue or hunger. If you look at my you tube channel www.youtube.com/@enyaq_gorm you will see older videos where I tested my enyaq 60, I have also tested the Elroq 60. Now I have an 85 after 3 hours driving from Edinburgh to Lancaster the battery usually goes from 90 to 40% and I need to stop - the car can go further but that 3 hour point is about my limit as a driver. Buy a car that will go for 3 hours and then you can charge

Ur headlights r incorrectly aimed. The mk3 pre-facelift Superb Bi-Xenon headlights r really good, when aimed properly. If u have a broken levelling sensor, or an associate fault, ur headlights will simply point downwards. This footage of my headlights, showing both low & high beams.

So after many weeks of dithering to go to the dark side, as my kids call it ( electric ) , we decided to .. and came home with a new big red fire engine , mk2 VRS Kodiaq , a bit like Luke skywalker " i will never go to the dark side .... " 😄

Morning all. Have a new issue I thought I would run by you to see if anybody has had similar.... 2021 Enyaq 60 with 110k miles. Have recently had starting a 'clicking' noise when moving away from a standing start and then when breaking. Almost sounds like a relay opening/closing. Strangely enough, if you pull away VERY slowly, it does not do it. Car is at the dealer for a number of issues but, on this one (no diag done by 5 on Monday but completed by 11 yesterday), it has been declared as a major job requiring 10 hours of labour to power down, remove gearbox and carry out repair. All very vague at the moment and have asked for a breakdown of parts required. Quote for the repair is £3,300 !!! My initial enquiry is whether anybody has had similar please?? If this needs to be done, then so be it, but a bit miffed that a 4 year old car with (relatively) not high mileage, requires an expensive repair like this !! Will add to my post if/when I get an update of requirements.... Thanks in advance, Paul

The transmission will be slipping the clutch - there is no extra low gear for 'creeping'