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So hopefully the issue have been fixed! The culprit was the wastegate actuator after all. Upon inspection I noticed quite significant play on the actuator rod. This was present even when the ECU tried to close the wastegate. So I ordered new part to try and replace it. MP4_20260914_080003VLOG.mp4 Getting the old part out was fight, too. I couldn't get the actuator off the wastegate lever. And this is why: I tried to move the lever before and there was no sign of play. So it's likely that the connection was sticking, but not enough to throw the P334B error. The bushing in the actuator, where the rod passes, was significantly worn, too, and the entire mechanism didn't move as freely as the new part. Overall, there was 3-4mm of play in the system (for reference, the entire range of the actuator is 10mm - reduced by 2mm insert which was fit during recall), so it's no wonder that the turbo couldn't reach boost in lower RPM. After the replacement, I did 15x ignition on/off procedure, which supposedly resets the endpoints. Drove around 200km afterwards with no issue. The car is much more lively now, although I didn't check with diagnostics, it's apparent that turbo reaches full pressure at ~2000RPM, but the throttle response improved all the way to idle. Fuel consumption at 6th gear/2000RPM and full throttle went from 9-10l/100km to 15+, so there's definitely more air going into the engine and hills, where it struggled before, are no issue now.

well as you say youve just recently bought the car id suggest replacing the fuel filter too, you dont know what the cars been run on or how many times its been run close to empty, and also with any engine upgrades ,,,, check the brakes and suspension (and engine mounts) for wear and damage and change the brake fluid too

Thank you, it’s currently on 87,000 I have it booked in with my friend that is a Skoda technician he’s going to do the tensioner,chain and water pump for me then I hope to look at a stage one mapping for performance gains.

David - if you do retire this thread, I hope you start a new on to record your experiences. For me, I've thoroughly enjoyed reading what you and other have written. Despite the challeges this has all been a friendly and positive set of interactions.

for best performance and security, whole car must be checked, low milege but also low year of production, shocks and rubber parts gone with time. brakes, brake fluids etc.. check everything, for your own sake and for sake of others. when ii tuned my 1.5 tsi from 150 to 180 ks, my first ride after warm up was pretty dangerous.. :-D

I would be extremely surprised if that has any basis in truth.

Thanks again everyone for your comments. I will keep you posted on how I get on. I am just about to start a new job which might mean that I need to get another car....if I do, I will probably get a hack more suited to towing. So give me a month or 2 to see which way I go.

Welcome. In what respects? Performance, handling, or something else? There's been a lot done to the MkIIs. TFSi are pretty tuneable. Golf upgrades etc. Lots of topics and threads so good luck with it 👍

I would definitely test your battery, just cos it should be ok doesn't necessarily mean it will be

Actually, I should have asked, how is your 12v battery health? A plethora of faults can quite often be caused by an under performing 12v battery

My 2023 Karoq Sportline is 3 years old tomorrow, Sept 15th, so the Skoda Warranty expires at midnight today. Having done my due diligence comparing the Extended Warranty offer from Skoda and having it serviced at the independent garage who have serviced our cars for the last 20 years with the Skoda 2 yr All-In-One Service plan, I opted for the All-In-One plan, as the warranty covers the expensive items like Matrix LED headlights, Infotainment screen, Virtual Dashboard,, Mechatronic unit and Clutch Packs. Anyone who is thinking of going with the All-In-One plan you can now arrange it up to 30 days before the vehicle becomes 3 years old, this has only just changed as it was previously only available AFTER the car was 3 years old. Skoda Warranty Offer is a separate insurance policy with a 3rd party provider the cover is slightly less inclusive, the All-In-One plan continues the original Skoda Warranty same cover as when the car was new. Costs: 2 yr All-in-One plan £959.76 or 24 monthly direct debit payments of £39.99. Covers 2 services Oil and Filter, Oil Filter, Pollen Filter and Spark Plugs), 2 MOts, 2 Years Roadside Assistance - 2 yrs Skoda Warranty included. The Skoda Warranty with the 3rd party Insurance company is £624, 2 MOTS is £108, so thats £732, very difficult to see how any independent could do the two services for £227.

I don't have that particular issue with things disappearing from the infotainment, but I did have one myself... It was the ability to switch Laura's voice from male to an actual female lol The setting appears very briefly in the relevant screen, but then quickly disappears for some reason. Took me a while to be quick enough to hit it before it went, but I did manage to change it I'm sure other options went too, although I'm unsure of which ones. Gotta love the bugs on these Skoda's....

12.33 volts is on the low side and could drop signifantly during start stop etc A healthy battery should read 12.6-12.8 which may point to the front assist not available and also cutting out. As for the error codes being wiped as told from skoda engineer when car is locked???? I agree with Pete. Highlly unlikley. In my opinion absolute rubbish Ecu is designed to store codes not wipe them. Think you may be getting fobbed off by the engineer/garage. I would take car back and ask for them (tell them as its under warranty) to fit a new battery and take it from there Alasdair

The car is a manual, would understand that if it was auto. Thanks

It looks like the F11-79-008-01-HA rear spring (and E10-79-012-04-22 kit) isn't for a Superb MK3...but a Superb MK2 and other VAG cars that were based on the Golf MK5/MK6... The eibach de website has an online catalogue that should list suitable kits. https://www.eibach.de/en/iam

Whoops should have read a bit further. Wireless Android Auto is flawless for me now. It was a pain before.

Great point I’ve not looked at fluids etc yet but will very soon. Also yes I really want to be a million percent sure the car is strong and ready for any sort of map before I commit as I want to keep the car for a long time putting my own stamp on it.

The car may have been registered in May, but when was it manufactured and how long did it sit unused? My Octavia had a gap of 10 months from production to initial registration. I took ownership 9 months after registration. The battery was never amazing and Start/Stop barely activated when sitting in traffic. I had a new battery fitted a few months ago and it's like a different car. Start/Stop constantly activates now even without the car being warmed up. So could be worth checking the battery health, and maybe putting a battery charger/conditioner on it? I regularly get complaints with Front Assist, and they're always temporary. It seems to not like certain sections of road. When I take my kids to school there's always one section of road, that if Front Assist will alert, it will do it there. I've never really worked out why.

I did buy a fuel filter too for when the car goes up on lifts I’ll get it changed at that point very soon as I believe it’s on the underside of the car? Good shout on the brakes suspension and mounts too I’ll get them all checked out also hopefully in good condition.

my car had some issue, on half empty road, warn of colision popped and car itself braked to the floor, driver behind me avoid collision in inches. why is it doing? luckily it happened only 2-3 times in 2 years, no matter of weather or dirt. car decelerate and brake itself without reason, dangerous. i wanted to turn off all assistant stuff (i can do it in settings, its 2019), because i have 35 years of driving experience on motorbikes and cars, never caused a car crash, but it is helpful sometimes.. help to avoid car crash.

Maybe try Tesco Momentum 99, not just cheaper, sometimes exceeds 99 ron, especially once the Winter Spec arrives at filling stations. Starting earliest in the Northern regions, late September / October Scotland.

The spark plugs need checked / inspected as a minimum & gap checked, and best replaced. Best get it on a Dyno before a remap, maybe already re-mapped.

change oil no matter what, high quality oil and filter, intake air filter..

I think I am nearly as excited about this as you 😆 Enjoy your shake-down trip (and then start some new threads about all the quirks you find and need to come to love 😉) I too switched to my first Skoda Superb from Mercedes for all the same reasons as you, and I have never regretted it. True, there is not quite the same 'first class' engineering and customer service, but Skoda is close and on a cost-value comparison wins hands down.

ok thank you, will do that

I can confirm now that leaking wastegate moves boost response up in the RPM range. I had some 4mm of total play in the actuator itself and the connection to wastegate lever and turbo didn't boost properly until 3000RPM. After actuator replacement, everything improved, though I didn't check the exact figures with the diagnostics.

Well folks, today's the day! I began this thread back in April or May 2025 by asking forum members for their assistance. Thank you to all who have contributed. At the time I didn't think it would take almost 18 months before we would eventually collect our new car. Partly of my own making and partly due to the decision to reject the car that arrived in February for a March collection. However, here we are. This feels somewhat different from most of the previous cars we have acquired before. This one has been bought first with my head, then my heart. Normally, it's been the other way around. I've turned my back on the aspirational premium brands of Mercedes, BMW and Audi, the big three. And obviously Range Rover. Why? Too many times they have sold me a mirage. The promise of something special in return for what would have been another £20k+, but the reality has been anything but. Not this time. I am not expecting our Superb to be as quiet or refined as those more expensive cars - sound insulation etc. But the law of diminishing returns applies here and another £20k, or settling for a stripped back 5 series, isn't justified to me. And if the follow-through customer service from Skoda is so-so, and I am hoping for more but not expecting such, it will be less painful than the dire service from Audi Edinburgh, Lloyd Land Rover Kelso etc. because the bill doesn't include £170 per hour labour charges and eye-watering cost of parts (although I am under no illusions that the DCC+ suspension is simple although, by comparison to the Velar's air suspension with bags and compressor, there are clearly more complex systems out there). We catch the train from the Central Scottish Borders into Edinburgh this morning and, all going well, collect the car before a day trip to Pitlochry and a visit to Queen's View.....to pop 150 miles on her across an easy selection of roads - motorway, faster A roads etc. I have my PNY USB thumbdrive loaded with a few test, lossless music files. That's it. If you've been following this thread then thanks again. I will post a few pics tomorrow, provide a final report to the community and then I sense we can retire the thread gracefully. Best wishes. David.

Hi all after 20 years of driving ford cars I’ve just picked up my first Skoda in a mk 2 2011 octavia vrs tfsi. Naturally I am looking for help in upgrades on this beast 😎

Yeah, I got the 334 update on Saturday. Seemed to go on OK, then did a large supplementary update that also reinstalled the shop to the main menu (it had disappeared a week ago from mine). Hoping this will see the end of the daily updates and hopefully sort out the issues with CarPlay being super slow to respond to screen presses etc. Just need them now to add icons for all the radio stations that still aren’t in the logo pack and we will be laughing.

Awesome, I’m happy it worked!

Hi, I did the oil change 2 days ago. The 161mm oil filter was the correct one. It is more faff than our old SII.... The tray is fixed with more bolts and different sizes. There is another part - a V488 heat assist pump - that you have to unbolt and swing out and then not mix up all your Torx screws before you get to the oil filter housing. Then you drain oil from it with a 10mm hex and to unbolt the housing you use a 26mm. Oil fill on the DTUA is 5.5l.

Already swapped for Polybush versions, much nicer. I’ve had track cars with solid mounts so knew it would be bad but got them cheap so thought I’d try it. Found out why they were cheap!

Thank you so much JamesK! Great information - I shall try greasing (silicone spray) those pesky blocks tomorrow. Barry.

Hello, I made a solution for this kind of issue and also made a short movie how to fix touch panel under the black panel which is under the display if you have problems with self clicking or volume goes up or down all the time - this is the solution. Sometimes when on/off button is self clicking all the time - unit keeps rebooting as well.

I have spent a lot of time on this and made some progress. Firstly, for those who don't know (including my garage) the aircon drain tube exits into the transmission tunnel inside the drivers footwell, underneath the footrest ( same as Octavia (Screenshot_2019-05-22-21-35-34.jpg.9c10c83445932916cf97ab10ce1b31a2.jpg (1440×2560) Even though I had checked that water was draining from the scuttle under the windscreen, I took it all apart and found quite a bit! There was a build-up of debris (dense, like wet soil!) in front of the drain on the O/S, acting like a small dam. Just above there is a hole through the bulkhead, which should be sealed with a grommet - mine was missing. When I poured water onto the windscreen, which ran into the scuttle, it pooled in front of the 'dam' and whilst a lot went down the drain, quite a bit went through the hole into the drivers footwell just behind the accelerator pedal. I plugged the hole with a large amount of Bluetack, cover the whole area with Gaffer tapeand formed a really good seal - result no more leaking into car. I then removedthe mudflaps and prised the inner wheelarch covers away, to find a mass of 'compost' and dry leaves, mostly on O/S. Why this isn't part of the service schedule, say every 50k miles, I don't know. It would take a mechanic 10-15 minutes to do this and prevent a lot of problems. Having done all this andchecked the drain tube (shown in photo) was clear, I ran the car with aircon engaged and the drain tube end put in a bowl - water dripped in, so all seemed to be working, so reseated the tube end into the chassis hole and it then dripped out underneath the car. For the moment, I'm hoping it's all sorted. Placing towels etc. underneath the felt-type soundproofing under the carpets, to try to dry everything out. I'm now going for a beer and a lie down!!

Full Backup Superb 3 Facelift L&K Superb3_L&K_Full_Backup.html

on my mk 4 you can tell which sensor it is as the sound in car plays from the relevant speaker, so if it's back left that's where the sound comes from in the car etc. Mind that may only narrow it down to two sensors, not one, I'm unsure

Oh lol. That's that idea out the window then.

Disabling or turning down the Soundaktor Disabling or turning down the Soundaktor reduces the engine sound especially in sport mode. From the VCDS main screen click the button “Select” Click the button “A9 Structure Borne Sound” Click the button “Adaption 10” Use the Channel drop down and select “Volume of structure borne noise actuator” For me it was the only one. Enter a value. Default value is 100, setting 50 would reduce the sound by 50%. 0 would turn it off completely. Click “do it”