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Yeti back on the ramp, engine in with twin injector manifold etc... Few jobs to do to finish, like sorting best air intake source for as much cold air as we can get. These engines do run rather warm when tuning on the intake/exhaust.

Seeing as the Citigo has its own thread, seems rude not to give the Octavia one too. The reasons for buying this came about because of a new job, the need for more space inside and with the job, a longer commute. While I love the little Citigo, and am genuinely glad I still get to keep it (kind of), I am very happy to be in a ‘grown up’ car again. Also, my 2 year old is loving all the space in the back that he doesn’t have in either the Citigo nor the Mercedes. The Citigo thread started with pics of the car in the showroom but as this one is used, may as well start with how it looks today!! Octavia vRS by SashaGrace, on Flickr Octavia vRS by SashaGrace, on Flickr Octavia vRS by SashaGrace, on Flickr Octavia vRS by SashaGrace, on Flickr Octavia vRS by SashaGrace, on Flickr Was freshly cleaned when I collected it, that's not even 200 miles worth haha! The spec, so far as I can tell is pretty decent, I think it’s Quartz Grey with winter pack, full leather, black pack (this really completes the car IMO and I love it on my Citigo MC so it was one of the stand out reasons I wanted this car), and is a 2.0 184 TDi partnered with the DSG box. Observations after 300 miles; it’s quick! Thinking back to my Mercedes which is a 400bhp AMG V8 missile it doesn’t disgrace itself in daily driving, even in eco mode (shamefully, that the mode the car will probably live in) the car is plenty quick enough for me. It’s also huge inside, I see now why people rave about the cabin because it is so spacious and the boot is palatial. The Sport mode I’m not sure about; the sound symposer isn’t as naff as I thought it’d be but it seems to hold onto gears a lot longer than I’d like and doesn’t get the message when to change up, though thankfully the paddle shifters can deal with that. The headlights are amazing, I though the Merc bi-xenons were good, the aren’t as good as these! Also worthy of note is the driving position and my worries of interior quality are gone, simply gone, as the car has done 75k and it simply doesn’t show inside, it even smells as good as new. Already I have sourced some chrome key ends, silicone key covers and a whole host of other stuff from eBay and I’ve ordered in some new rubber mats from the dealers, though I’m on the hunt for a drivers carpet mat with the silver piping, just in case one appears to give me a set of each. Also needed was a radio antenna. This follows my tradition of buying used cars and them breaking instantly! The radio was working fine yesterday on DAB, FM & AM but today wouldn’t find a single station. As work shut early I went to the local dealer and hooked the car on the scanner where the antenna was deemed the culprit! Never mind, what’s a £40 part in terms of an £11k car? Just hope that’s the only thing that goes wrong lol. On the mod list so far:- VCDS adaptations, it has lane assist so I believe that auto high beam and traffic sign recognition are features I can install so I’d like to do that, along with some other tweaks, though the car already has the needle sweep, auto rain close windows and some other stuff working. LED lighting, rear plate and interior upgrade and rear footwell light install. That’s about it really, just run it and see from there really. Gotta get it all cleaned up before I get too excited though haha! It’s a busy beaver this week though, off to Wrexham tomorrow and Liverpool Wednesday, then my regular 40 mile round commute Thursday and I’ll be off work Friday (hopefully fitting that antenna!). If there are any good mods I’ve missed, do let me know!!

facelift looks much better when it's mostly covered up in snow ;-)

Test mounting position by dummy-fitting glovebox (without damper) to check for fouling Connect the perma-power & switched-power PMP wires to the correct piggyback circuits. For Power Magic Pro, it's a non-intuitive YELLOW wire to permanent power, and RED wire to switched/ignition power. Check with your specific device for correct wire connections. During testing, the forked terminal worked fine, but I preferred to fit a ring terminal for the permanent Earth connection. Connect the output socket/wire from the device (for PMP, it's a cigarette lighter socket) to the dashcam power input source (in the Blackvue's case, it's a cigarette lighter plug). Your device may be USB connections. Bundle excess dashcam/PMP device wiring and wrap in electrical tape. If chosen/available, wrap in cloth or similar material, to mute any rattling that may occur after the bundle is mounted. you may choose to cut excess wire and crimp/solder connect the wires directly together to bypass the original connection method. An electrical engineer once told me NEVER to use solder in a car, as it's prone to breaking from vibrations, and most people use the incorrect type of solder. He said to ALWAYS use crimp connections in a car. Your choice. Choose where to permanently mount the connection and excess-wire bundle. I chose the 2 holes in the dashboard frame, inside the side-cover. (Again, no idea why these pictures are showing sideways) The top connection on this worked OK, but the bottom connection was a bit dodgy. I suspect I'll have to revisit this at some point, to revise how I secure this, as I think it's going to work it's way loose with general car vibrations. Wrap the remaining PMP wires, and neaten the piggyback wires in the fusebox. Hide/mount remaining wires underneath glovebox frame where you mounted the PMP unit. Replace side trim Replace glovebox & damper hook. BY FAR, re-fitting the glovebox was the MOST difficult part of this installation. I'd like to find the head-engineer at Skoda who signed-off on this, and punch him squarely in the nose!!! But apart from all that, enjoy your hardwired dashcamera !

Progress, yes!!! The Yeti should meet with the Superb this summer

Well, it’s been emotional but due to a new job, big commute and the desire to get a car that is a little more future proof, my other half is inheriting this Citigo so it’ll still be mine kind of but my new daily is seeing me spending more time on this forum but in the Octavia 3 section. It’s too dark for proper pics but here’s a sale pic to whet the appetite. Will still be enjoying the Citigo wherever possible

I thought I'd ask how people got on. This is my 4x4 vRS DSG which coped very well in 4-5 inches of snow on Bridgestone summer tyres. I kept it in manual and let the engine do the braking as I know from loads of ski-ing trips that anything without winter tyres can't stop in the snow. You end up mashing the pedal while it slides away into the distance. I reckon with winter tyres it would be almost as good as my Subaru

Just signed up as I ordered a new Octavia VRS 230 hatch on Friday. I got interested in these when the really good 245 lease deals were released, but the long lead times put me off. I finally managed to secure a stock car in the right spec last week, and after lots of thinking decided to go for it. I had also tried to get an A4 avant lease, but the stock cars got hoovered up within the same week the deals were released. After going round a few dealers and test driving one I was pretty sold, I especially liked the interior and seats. I was after a used one so I could have it before xmas, but knowing how cheap the leases were I couldn't get close with a PCP on anything nearly new/low mileage. I meant to go for an auto diesel to keep things sensible, but settled on a petrol manual. I'd be interested to hear some opinions on the manual box and the real world economy of the petrol, as this is supposed to be my practical daily driver I've taken a bit of a risk here - but I couldn't resist having a manual hot hatch. My main car is an F type S, and the Octavia is in matching red, with big black wheels (black design pack plus). Very opposite cars, but as the F type is an auto I think I'll appreciate the manual in the Skoda. It should arrive at the beginning of Jan, and at around £7k all in for 2 years incl. spare wheel, alcantara seats, black design pack plus and winter pack I reckon it's a bit of a bargain! Should look very similar to this one: Current toy:

So I'm sat vwatching Tv, I've opened a bottle of Wine which Mrs G bought today The conversation goes something like this. " Mmmmmm this reds nice love, where's it from " " Sainsburys " " No, no the Country, it's rather smooth " " Don't know, it was on offer " " OK I'll give you a clue " " No I'm watching Telly " " Come on Love we get Mince from the the Butchers, we make ..........................." "Casualtys on " "We have Garlic bread with it............? " Don't know Sssshhhhh......................." " come on love have a guess " " Spag bol " "Spag Bol is not a country...." " I'm not bothered SHUSShhhhhhhhhh " " You'll upset the dog " " the dogs asleep " " you'll wake him up " " Come on guess......................" "Taco's " I could go one but we'll be here tomorrow, The wine was from Chile. How have we've lasted 34 years.....Aaarrrrrrr

After eating his tea, he's gone for a nap. He sleeps on a pillow in a pillow case. He won't sleep anywhere else. It's a portable bed, Stupid dog

Possibly the angle, I'll have a check over at some point. In other news, as some are aware and some not, I bought a second car over the weekend as the Citigo just isn't a practical or comfy car to use everyday, this means I can start tinkering with the car more and doing more things to it that I wouldn't have done before as I needed to rely it and needed it to remain relatively comfy for day to day use. A quick side by side shot of the 2 cars together

Far from it, I do lots of country lanes and dual carriageways and I must admit it is pretty impressive... certainly worth the £100 (on the L&K)

its abit hard to remember what happened and how it happened few bits of what i can remember. first thing i needed to sort after repairing the wiring and busted alternator was the interior.It was a mass of no more nails and cracked plastic who ever installed the after market audio in the car had some issues. i managed to find a mint soarer breaking nabbed the doorcards window trims and a fully working heater panel! nice new and minty completely different car new heater panel and radio cage on to engine new everything ac deleted v6 audi belt slipped straight on after i then saw a picture of a 1j with twin filters and became obsessed with that idea. no kit seemed to exist so i made my own which took a lot more time and effort than i had imagined but dam it looks and sounds dam awesome,fitted a fmic the same time. had to make an adapter for the front turbo day1 day now

Hi, I am paul from Bournemouth dorset and today have bought a superb 2006 elegance 2.8 petrol auto, it has only done 35000 miles and has a few electrical issues which I am hoping with your help to rectify,thank you for letting me join your group loving the car and will post when I am sure I am fully familiar with it to avoid idiotic questions,regards paul, (qualified mechanic but old school).

As far as I'm aware DAB/AM/FM all share the same rear quarter light antennae, I just cannot remember which side of car though. Since there is nothing on any radio mode I'm inclined to think it is not the antennae that is at fault, unless it has become disconnected somehow. There are others on this forum who have vastly more experience than I have with Columbus and will be able to advise you better, Really nice car, pity such an annoying gremlin has cropped up so early.

Plenty of people who pay a grand a month on car leases. My contention is that although one might get a car allowance of £500, £750 a month or £1,000 a month one gets whacked for PAYE on it and then one has the other running costs ie servicing and tyres so spending much more than half of a car allowance on the lease cost and one is going to be very out of pocket. Many are OK with that as the car is such as status symbol so are willing to subsidise from their other part of their wages. Here is a scare scenario... http://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/options-the-end-of-your-pcp/ ====================================== Understanding the final payment The final balloon payment at the end of a PCP is often also called the guaranteed future value (GFV), which is technically a different thing but it doesn’t matter for now. Many finance companies humorously describe it as the “optional final payment”, making it sound like you don’t have to pay it unless you want to. The reality is the exact opposite, and it can have disastrous consequences for your personal finances. What is very important, and generally not explained by car dealers, is that paying off the balloon is the default option of the three choices listed above at the end of a PCP. The finance company will try to take this huge final payment from your bank account unless you take specific action to avoid it. The problem is that you probably don’t have several thousands of pounds sitting in your current account when the finance company tries to take the final payment. The payment bounces and, suddenly, you have defaulted on your loan (probably with a default fee from your bank as well).

Naw, all 8 sets of lights were green & the level crossing was clear, some mornings are just like that.

One good thing though is they plod through the snow and grip the slippy stuff quite well on the torque, I find they tend to break traction a bit less than the more revvy petrols. Always the way isn't it! These days I change them with the clocks, don't really think about it. Not saying I still haven't been caught out but it seems to work. Glad you got back in the end though

Which is why my second and third Yeti's had the electric seat option. The fixed squab in the first Yeti was at the wrong angle and it was near impossible to get a good comfortable seating position. I ended up with one compromise position for least discomfort. With electric seats it is possible to get many different comfortable positions. I find myself driving the lumbar support up and down at times to massage my back on a long journey.

70 mph is 70 mph whether you're in a petrol or diesel It's more the 6+ hours driving I'm thinking of!

I thought the advice relates to potential aquaplaning (water dispersal) regardless of drive? To be fair, tests don’t show a huge difference above 4mm on most brands, but 2mm at the back and a new set with 7/8mm on the front could easily help the rear step out on braking and bends etc. ABS can greatly help with shallower tread at the front and it generates bite, but it won’t help with oversteer and the ability of ESC systems varies massively.

First thing I do on owning a car. Simple, and it's worked for 50+ years of motoring. READ the user manual. Not Taught on the driving school course, but it MIGHT teach new users HOw THINGS WORK. Not really rocket school science. But HOW easy.

@JaamesVRS - The absolutely critical point in doing a caliper rebuild is complete cleanliness during the rebuild. Clean the caliper before you start dismantling, and work inside on a table covered in old newspapers.

From: http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/cars/article-4833864/Car-scrappage-schemes-explained-compared.html "While the government continues to drag its heels with a consultation on its prospective diesel scrappage scheme, 24 car manufacturers have taken the decision into their own hands by offering discounts on new models when drivers trade-in older vehicles."

I think this is a translation error. The latest Octavia, Kodiaq and Karoq manuals say: Always fit tyres with a greater profile depth on the front wheels. Which I would say means "Always fit the narrowest tyres on front wheels" - that should ensure understeer. But I would have thought there would have been a "protective/disclaimer" statement "Only use wheels and tyres with matching specifications"

I have a spanners, screwdrivers and torque wrenches from Halfords Professional range and they are good value for the money. However the socket sets are crap. They may have a lifetime warranty and they will exchange them readily but there is nothing worse than not being able to complete a job due to a broken tool especially if you're working on your own car and need to get a taxi, bus, push bike or whatever just to exchange the broken piece. It's a real annoyance and waste of your time. For socket sets I would go for Bahco or Teng both have the added benefit of being a shot peened finish which even with oily or greasy hands you can hold the tool with slipping so less socket bits dropped into the darkest cavities of your car which happens too easily with chromed finishes. CK pliers seem to be in another league compared to others too.

Got confirmation my car has BW 50, which should mean it's being built as I type! Hopefully should get my hands on it mid-to-late January (since there's another winter shutdown at Skoda apparently). Can't wait - will be around 7 months since I ordered it by then so let's hope the wait is worth it!

The conservatory? With the lead pipe or the gun? Sounds like a game of Cluedo... You mentioned feeling colder. You must remember that from the biking days... Cold day for pedestrians means frozen fingers for a motorcyclist. I used to think it funny having heated grips as I thought surely the gloves will stop the heat coming through but if they let the cold in, they will let the heat in too. Add in the oh-so stylish handle bar muffs and you have toasty-warm hands for the journey. Feet like ice cubes though!..Lol.

Did you miss the bit about leaving the drivers door open and then locking the car?

nice buy. white was my plan b. i went with business grey. the 19" phoenix wheels really goes nicely with the Superb.

I always X-rotate the front onto the rear - to get rid of the wear pattern. The rears go straight to the front.

On FWD cars I'd keep the tyres with the most tread depth on the front. These are the driven wheels, they do the steering, and they do the most braking, in other words they do the most work and will likely be the ones that wear down quickest, whereas the rears are free rotating followers and Škoda appear to agree with me. This is what they say in the manual... Notes on using wheels Read and observe on page 217 first. New tyres do not offer optimum grip during the first 500 km and appropriate care should therefore be taken when driving. Always fit the tyres with the deeper tread depth to the front wheels. As for how and when... For uniform wear on all tyres, we recommend that you change the wheels every 10 000 km according to the scheme » Fig. 236 B . You will then obtain approximately the same life for all the tyres. After a wheel has been replaced, the tyre pressure has to be adjusted. In vehicles with tyre pressure monitoring, save tyre pressure values. "For uniform wear on all tyres" On my last 5 cars, all FWD except my current 4x4, I've never had more than 1 mm of wear difference between front and rear so I simply haven't bothered with rotation.

Thanks all, well I don’t like to mess around and tbh I wanted a vRS but I started looking at the Elegance/SE-L trim out of cost reasons but found more of the toys I wanted (auto box basically) on this one. Is pretty much standard vRS but it has full leather, winter pack and black pack that I can tell. It has all round park sensors too that were working when collected but didn’t when parked outside the house just now, I hope it’s juat because they are filthy but I’ll soon find out, if not, I’ll sort a repair under warranty The mod list for this one is quite short for now, just some VCDS adaptations and a few bits and bobs!

Looks nice @SashaGrace What's the story with this one, you were originally looking at Elegance/SE L trim? Decent spec? This topic quickly went from buying advice to bought!

Alldens exhaust in Market Rasen in Lincolnshire, He had a triumph thruxton in last time i went and had made some replica cans for it but slightly smaller that made more noise

I did originally want the 700 {owned a NC 750X then} but because NO centre/main stand was available ,so chose the MT09 Tracer instead. Moving on SW Mototec now do a centre/main stand , but still NOT Yamaha ! After another test ride decided the lower weight & "a more compact size" & NEVER going to use the engine to its full potential.....plus the free"winter pack" promotion decided a NEW 700 Tracer was going to be ordered .....& now delivered !!!! Just need the weather to improve to get the 1st service done A.S.A.P, so to answer your question....it should have been 12mths ago I should have owned a 700 instead of the 900 ! WELL up to what I need from a bike & still prefer than the NC 750X !

Halfords 'Advanced' range. They have great deal on now and again with some sets at half price and, as mentioned, come with a lifetime warranty. I also buy a lot of Lidl's tools. The quality isn't that bad for small jobs. They do some pretty decent Powerfix socket sets and spanners. Lidl also do a half decent torque wrench which I think is a re-branded CK tools wrench. Edit. Further discount from Halfords if you can get a Trade card. http://www.halfords.com/advice/motoring/trade-card/trade-card?cm_re=mmtradecard-_-Tradecard-_-Tradecard Qualifying trades; Qualified mechanic Self-employed mechanic Mobile mechanic Small independent garage mechanic Fast Fit Centre mechanic Commercial vehicle mechanic Police, fire or ambulance mechanic Bus mechanic Local authority mechanic Recovery mechanic College motor vehicle staff College apprentice mechanic Army mechanic RAF or aviation engineer Railway engineer / mechanic Naval Engineer Marine Engineer/Mechanic Carpenter Electrician Plumber Glazier Landscaper / Fencer Welder / Metal worker Utilities worker Taxi companies & drivers Courier companies & drivers

well then something unexpected happened and i now own my first and best 328 again!! more pics when its motd and hits the roads as the new daily

Diesels are awesome Dirty diesels FTW Twice now the government has said "diesel is worse, no sorry petrol is worse, whoops we meant diesel is worse" Its a whole lot more than n0x and particulates, it's clearly some jobsworth trying to justify his or hers exhorbitant wages. ANYWAY PCP IS THE OPENING SUBJECT. LETS STAY ON TOPIC. Pcp was always a plaster on a bullet wound, won't do good for very long.

I know its your thread and all, but it only took you 3 posts to chuck a Dacia ad in this time. That makes 3 threads now on the first page of General Car Chat alone. It's beyond boring now.

Have a look at the wiring where the loom goes behind the battery. On my old Citigo, the wiring had chafed against the back of the stuff mounted behind the battery and thrown up a O2 sensor code. Dealer spotted it straight away (Prestons in Writtle) and had it fixed in minutes.

Just realised I should have put my picture on this section. Ordered 28th September and she turned up in today, it's and L&K 280 estate DSG with 19" anthracite wheels. Front/back sensors and a few other bits. Only driven for 20 mins so far but loved it, replaces an Audi A6 Avant ultra black line edition I got 4 years ago. Cheaper , better engine and better specced that my Audi so not missing at all .

Here's a quick one, not great quality so will take some better ones later. The wheels in anthracite really offset the white colour

I have been a member fow a few years This is sad news that soething like this can happen Best wishes to Mike and a shame we no longer have that font of knowledge

I’m 61. I started biking when I was 16 and have always had a bike since then. Currently have a Hayabusa. Still alive! my tips, for what they’re worth: Dont drive your bike as if it were a car. You won’t last long. Example: you’re driving along a main road in your car. A car approaches from a side road. You assume it will stop so you just carry on. But if you’re driving along the same road on your bike, one time in 1000 it will pull out in front of you. One time in 1000 you’ll die. How many lives do you have? So you have to remove the possibility by adjusting your speed (which bikes are good at) so there cant be a conflict. second tip. There is no point in having a bike if you are going to drive it like a car. Cars get stuck in traffic. Bikes don’t. Unless they are too wide! Don’t get a bike with wide scrambler type handlebars, the scratches they put in the stationary cars are embarrassing! third tip: car drivers treat small bikes like they were some shoe dirt. Get a big evil x-off scary bike, car drivers are scared of that and get out of the way!

My Superb 2018 sportline. Loving it.

Was the most amazing car I’ve ever been in, pretty much laughed the whole way around snetterton in this thing.

I have coded LED DRL and reverse/back-up light as LH/CH. As mentioned before, to get rid of the LH/CH function for the Xenon headlamps I had to leave CH/LH as active on Leuchte 4 & 5. But instead set the dimming value (normally CD4 & CD5) to zero. Both LED DRL and backup lamps are dimmed to 50%. Works great :-)

The power of the internet! http://www.skodaparts.com/product/octavia-bonnet-stay-clip-30871

I'll be neutral I'm telling you seriously now, no mesing around, for your own good, leave the site. I think your time here is done, you've expended all opportunites of our goodwill and leinency, most sites would have canned your ass long ago. looking back you've been a pain in the ass for nigh on two years I think you have ran your course here Craig.