Leaderboard

Job’s done and I’m surprisingly uninterested in Robot’s. I’m still connected to a drain, which will hopefully be disconnected today as it’s a bit of a faff! Not weight bearing on it yet, but not far off. Needs proper recovery time at home rather than physios and OT’s trying to help. Gaz

Having just seen the ITV weather with the warning about ground frost, and seen the winter tyres debate in full swing my question is this Do you think Lucy Verasami would marry me?

Aren't they tough, a maskless protest on the plane BACK to the UK. Why would the Bundespolizei give a/f when they're on the plane? They'll have their details from the manifest (or Twitter) and will no doubt find themselves personae non gratae if they return. F'kin morons.

Which surely proves all the alien abduction theory's: Your memory is being wiped. Pay up.

Self righteous idiots like this are why hard zero tolerance measures will ultimately be needed costing lives & livelihoods. I know from friends and connections there will soon be some shock business casualties as a result of this governments failings on enforcement and track & trace.

Fixed that for you

There you go Chris Will add some better pics soon

#oxygenthiefs #terrorist (not you, of course, but then!)

Have you read their replies!!! I probably shame myself saying this, but I hope one of ‘em gets it bad (and ends up on a ventilator that one of them claims gives you autism )

Haha, that reminds me of a comment by a great friend and workmate from way back, referring to an unbelievably lovely female colleague: "She can't possibly poo, far too perfect". @Aspman don't be discussting.

I have bought something else. But I've not got it yet so I'm keeping quiet. It's looking like Tuesday to get it. It's being delivered since the BMW is still off the road. They'll take it away on trade plates.

I'd settle for something a bit more short-term than marriage, if I'm honest.

And just to present my credentials, if I may, I have been working in lubricant R&D for 28+ years for one of the well-known oil brands. I've worked on everything from motorcycle to ship engine oils, as well as transmissions, turbines etc.

That's how the nomenclature was first developed, but it isn't really like that any more. What you say is largely correct, but doesn't quite go far enough. The "5W" is saying the oil is behaving like a '5' grade would when cold and the "30" bit is saying it is behaving like a '30' grade would when hot. In this case a monograde 30 would be too thick when cold and a monograde '5' would be too thin when hot, hence the multigrade performance and nomenclature. In reality the two halves of the visc grade are tested under very different conditions. The 'W' (for "winter") number is tested under very cold conditions to determine if the oil can flow and pump when cold - one test is called the 'cold cranking simulator' (CCS) and one called 'mini rotary viscometer' (MRV). For an oil that is "xW-yy", the CCS is tested at -(35-x)°C and the MRV i tested at -(40-x)°C. An oil has to flow and pump effectively in these tests in order to pass them. The yy number is mostly derived from a simple viscosity test at 100°C (oil falling through a tube and timed between two marks).

As @Wino says, oil viscosity varies continuously with temperature, down to the point at which it 'freezes' and up to the point it boils or catches fire. The viscosity classification (eg 5W-30) gives some idea of how the oil behaves when cold (the 'W' number) and when at 100°C (the second number). 100°C is considered to be a typical bulk operating temperature but obviously in the course of doing its job the oil experiences a wide range of temperatures, from cold start to the top piston ring or piston undercrown. If you can look at the technical data sheet for an engine oil, the value that helps you understand the effect of temperature on viscosity is the viscosity index (VI). The higher this number, the less the viscosity changes with temperature. So, an oil with a VI of 120 will vary more than an oil with a VI of 150. If both of these oil have the same viscosity at 100°C then the lower VI oil will be thicker when cooler and thinner when hotter than this. The relationship is not linear - it is a fairly complex logarithmic relationship. I would consider an oil to be 'warm' around the 60-70°C mark - this is the temperature that some of the active ingredients really start getting to work properly. This isn't the final operating temperature and I wouldn't expect an oil temperature (measured in the sump) to stabilise here. In an engine the oil does warm up significantly slower than the coolant, largely because the coolant is thermostatically controlled and only the small portion within the block is circulated at first, whereas all of the oil is circulated all of the time, so is a significantly larger mass to heat and is exposed to the cooling effect of the sump. I recall that in my Yeti TDi the oil would just about reach 90°C on my 30 minute work commute in the winter and would cool noticeably during any time spent idling.

as far as I'm concerned, if I can read a number, the engine is warm. Especially from a -20C start. I might only see 65-70C in winter. - Bret

If someone is looking for a SW for the MIB you can grab from here list of availiable SW below for (audi, VW, Skoda, seat) Information was getting from german site:www.digital-eliteboard.co…0571/page-84#post-3811658 Additionaly you can find the way how to unlock features like Mirolink Aple car play nav and so on it was an original goal of that thread MIB2 High: mega.nz/folder/rdxF3TzB#RKPXpjFVzgPrEna2mP1_zA MIB2.5 High: mega.nz/folder/3Y5T2Z5A#L2endnMmtyOdbjr_K1oDyw Skoda: Columbus VW: Discover Pro, Discover media Seat: Navi System Plus Audi: MMI4G/MMI Plus manufactured by Harman Seat_PQ: MST2_EU_SE_PQ_P0363T_5F0919360F MST2_EU_SE_PQ_P0252T_5F0919360D Seat_ZR: MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0252T_5F0919360A MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0363T_5F0919360E MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0469T_5F0919360G MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0475T Skoda_PQ: MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0138T MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0252T MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0253T Skoda_ZR: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0252T_S0010001599 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T_V0020171002 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0367T_V0020180501 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0475T_5F4H5Q00358 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0366T_0366 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0468T_0468 VW_PQ: MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0252T_0252 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0253T_0253 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0363T_0363 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0367T_0367 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0475T_0475 MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0245T-0245 MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0253T_0253 MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0363T_0363 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0252T_0252 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0253T_0253 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0363T_0363 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0367T_0367 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0475T_0475 MST2_US_VW_PQ_P0253T_3G0919360DP MST2_US_VW_PQ_P0367T_3G0919360CL MST2_US_VW_PQ_P0478T_3G0919360JP VW_ZR: MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T_3G0919360P MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0252T_3G0919360AC MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0363T_3G0919360AJ MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0469T_3G0919360BL MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0475T_0475 MIB 2 High Aud: (A3) MHI2_ER_AU37x_P5089 MU1326 (A3) MHIG_EU_AU_K1549 MU0404 (A4-A5-Q5-Q7) MHI2_ER_AUG22_K3346 MU1438 (A4-A5-Q5-Q7) MHI2Q_ER_AUG22_P5092 MU1329 (A6-A7) MHI2_ER_AU57x_K3663 MU1425 (Q2) MHI2_ER_AU276_P5088 MU1325 (R8) MHI2_ER_AU62x_P5099 MU1340 (TT) MHI2_ER_AU43x_P5098 MU1339 Seat: MHI2_ER_SEG11_P4708 MU1409 Skoda: MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343 MU1433 MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 MU1440 MHIG_EU_SK_K1552 MU0411 VW: MHI2_ER_VWG11_K3332 MU1187 MHI2_ER_VWG11_K3342 MU1427 MHI2_ER_VWG13_P4521 MU1367 MHIG_EU_VW_K1550 MU0407 VW: discover media2 : mega.nz/folder/DRZQ1a6b#Y…PHzHfTs2Q/folder/uAhH3CrC MST2_EU_VW_P0635D MST2_EU_VW_P0867D MST2_EU_VW_P0891D MST2_EU_VW_P9122D MST2_US_VW_P0635D MST2_US_VW_P0867D

From my understanding from German colleagues (and I'm sure Lee can chip in) there wouldn't have been a stand off. They'd have been arrested. Easy to claim something (which never happened) and post a picture from the safety of being on board a plane, probably back in the UK after everyone has disembarked.

Go for it. Once I do mine I can let you know the exact method and we can take it from there.

Oh dear those are not nice alloys

This is a good point to raise. As someone who happens to work in this area (security, mainly) - if anyone at the garage raises 'GDPR / UK Data Protection Act 2018' as a reason not to show you receipts from previous owners etc, I'd advise the following: A) ask for the clause in their privacy policy regarding this (i.e. don't let them fob you off with a made-up / half-understood "store policy" approach). Read what it says and/or ask them to explain their justification. and B) ask them to anonymise any documentation (e.g. scan / photocopy and black out the previous owner's address). As a potential buyer, you have a justifiable reason ("legitimate interest") to get written assurance that the car you are looking to buy meets your requirements and expectations. If it's within the capability of the garage / seller etc to anonymise documentation, which they will have to hand somehow (unless they're utter tools), they should do so. You're not looking for who owned it; you're looking for what was done to the car, when - as per normal car history stuff (e.g. servicing intervals, modifications, repairs etc). It's probably a minor point to raise, but I'm sick of common sense and genuine requirements from legitimate interests getting arbitrarily blocked through ignorance of data protection legislation. #NerdRantOver 😉

I thought it looked like a punk version of Brian from the magic roundabout.

I recommend Meyle HD droplinks, PSB polybushes over the Cupra bushes because they're a doddle to fit and Febi for the rest of the bits.

No, see here: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-multi-grade-car-engine-oils-explained.aspx 100°C is the point at which the right-hand number is measured. "Winter" and "summer" would be too vague.

I think the YouTuber comment is a bit sweeping ... Harry's Gararge .. High Peak Autos ..Mr JWW just a few that spring immediately to mind.

We had a traders policy, so at 19 I was driving a 24V Carlton. Always loved the Rover turbos though. Had a 220 turbo coupe, several 620ti’s and a couple of 820 vitesse’s. This 272 sort of reminds me of a modern version of the latter two.

Still doesn’t explain all the pre ownership “my vRS is so much better than your 280/272 superb” comments then went and bought one which then wasn’t good enough so had to be remapped which then turned into a “my car is so economical yet it’s obviously much faster than everyone else’s” (Harry Enfield sketch comes to mind...) and now suddenly it’s being traded in for a 150 diesel. Something doesn’t add up, I’m with Nick-H even though I’ve only owned for a few weeks I ain’t getting rid of this one for years!!!

About 99.99999% sure it has to be a scam. 1. No details from my driving licence. 2. They don't know my address. 3. They don't know who I am. 4. No details of car or reg. 5. Nowhere near charge road at that time. 6. No contact details other than a Telephone number given but they declare that as temporarily unavailable. 7. Only payment option is card online. 8. Not very well written. 9. Does not state where. The more I type dafter it sounds. Anyone else had one of these? Is this one that is doing the rounds at present?

Aye I've been done in France and Germany despite never having visited either since passing my test.

Germs

I'd gladly pay you to do mine rest assured but I am just a bit... far from you I'm afraid Am I allowed to bug you about details via PM?

Just wondering do you invalidate your warranty every time you change the coding on your car or does your dealer authorise it and you keep the warranty. Also do you inform your insurance company of all these changes because if an accident is caused as a result of messing with the coding you would be up the creek without a paddle.

Also I confirmed the coding for the MFD startup splash screens as below: Version 6 is Sportline on mine as I posted originally.

I've read a few cases of people having bought a secondhand car with a manufacturer backed warranty and later having the warranty cancelled when they had a valid claim. The reason being they had unwittingly bought a modified car from the dealer and the dealer had noticed the mod after the car came back, but not before they sold it. Personally I would never knowingly buy a modified car (not including OEM additions) unless it was a very unusual/special vehicle that modifying was important to the final result. I'm thinking of something like a Cobra replica that had been tweaked over the years. I don't believe that cars have the over engineering that was once prevalent, as we can engineer tighter tolerances and so save money on build and materials. Hence, simply adding power is more of a potential recipe for disaster than it has ever been, doubly so as turbo tweaks yield big torque gains very easily and cheaply. It's one of the reasons that a manufacturer doesn't just take a car and turn the wick up to 11 to be faster than a competitor's car and for no extra cost in the build. Instead, they beef up brakes, suspension, transmission etc all at extra cost, to them and you, when it would be the easier and incorrect way to simply turn up the boost.

@skippy41 - despite what the three MOT testers are telling you, LED kits in headlights designed for halogen bulbs are a fail. It's in the current MOT inspection manual: 4.1.4 (c) 'Light source and lamp not compatible' It's was also confirmed by a DVSA worker back in 2018 shortly after the new regulations came out: If you really want to put your mind at rest, put halogen bulbs back in and stop messing around with LED conversion kits...

I can imagine I'm driving a Lambo with my virtual dash until I notice the redline starts at 5,000rpm.........

Gaaaa! I can't stand that Engineering Explained you tuber. Patronizing american twerp. As Bret says, once you get a reading from the oil temp display it's OK to consider it warmed up. The water cooling circuit on these engines (you and I have the same) is complex, designed to bring it up to temp quickly for emissions and fuel efficiency reasons.

Storm

Thats what they used to say about me!

It’s a scam. I’ve had three already this week. There’s a warning on gov website if you google it.

Likewise on Pagid cables. Skoda ones ( from TPS ) are possibly reasonable with trade discount. But Pagid from ECP are reasonable ( if like a certain furniture store,you choose the right time). As for cable thickness - the origonal and the Pagid one ( without resorting to a micrometer) appear to be of the same thickness. The compensator- great if you use two new cables. I'd suspect that after a lot of years( 13) the passenger side had stretched a bit, making adjusting the compensator difficult, if not nigh on impossible. Older cars I've had relied on an arm inside the drum to operate the shoes in handbrake mode and the lever had to be at right angles to the shoes before the handbrake was applied to be at max efficiency. The lever was difficult to obtain, so I always followed the advice an old Vauxhall foreman gave me if I had a problem handbrake and levers were not available- build up the worn edge with a weld. I've always seen this method last for over a year. I even had one MOT tester ask how I got a Maxi handbrake to work so well. The adjustor- it wasn't that the grooves had worn, just that in uppermost position it got stuck. Even after a good rub down with emery paper and a soak in brake cleaner and a coating of brake grease it still stuck. In the end I cheated and manually moved it down till I could get the drum on with a little tap. I then tensioned the cable slightly before pulling the handbrake on three times. Bit of a faff on, but I then released the tension and tried to get the drum off. The fact that it was tight proved that the wedge had dropped. I knew I'd got it right when on first handbrake click the compensator was level and both rear wheels were equally hard to move. TMB- again many thanks- I've found my local VAG dealer is a better place to go to than the Skoda main dealer. One last point- on the handbrake cable that stuck . On removal, I noticed that where it's held on the clip etc nearest the handbrake lever, that there was evidence of the outer being damaged with a bit of rust . I also noticed evidence of rust pitting on the other cable . Possibly just my car, but others with cars approaching 12 might want to drop the cable and inspect.

Subjective subject. Who's getting their vcds to log it then for a few days real world driving, would love to see some graphs of that. 2.0 TDI. From cold on dual carriageway runs when coolant has warmed to 90C (~5miles) oil is just reading 50-60C. Another few miles beyond that I'm happy to stamp the gas if required

Watch the video at the end & you will have trouble counting how many bellends there are on the streets of Liverpool.

You'll probably get 1000 different academic answers from this wonderful forum, since it's all dependent on the engine make/model/tolerances & oil spec used within the engine 😉 As a general rule of thumb (& as I'm sure you're well aware), the indicated coolant temp meets its 'normal' level much faster than the oil itself. Oil takes a while for it all to warm up and become less viscous, therefore putting less friction on the engine components & doing its job properly. Personally with my VRS, for example, typically sits between an indicated 95 deg C (which I regard as the 'cool end') to 105 deg C (usually 'middle' - e.g. motorway driving). I'd consider 'Hot' to be 115 deg C+ in normal driving, unless doing track days etc. I'll take it gently for the first 5-10 minutes of driving where it starts increasing from the indicated oil temp from 50 deg C -->. My personal approach is to wait until it hits 90 deg C, where I (subjectively) feel that it's "warmed up" to allow more spirited driving etc; but appreciate others might think differently. I'm not sure there's any definitive answer online unless someone is a verified VAG engineer, but typically anyone with mechanical sympathy & understanding will limit any spirited driving or overrevving until the oil meets at least 80 deg C, where it starts to reach its operating temperature.

Two more tests today, same pass rate and achieved 84% & 90%. Last one tomorrow

I've had my Joying for about 18 months in my 2010 Superb and I've not had an issue with parking sensors, they work perfectly. I don't know where they get their power from. I am mostly happy with the unit but there are a couple of things that Joying can't or won't sort out. The first is that Google voice calling (or voice anything) doesn't work. It used to at least respond with a reply to my request to "call xxx" with "I'm sorry I can't do that yet" but now it doesn't do anything, just ignores me. Luckily though my phone picks up my request and it is transferred to the Joying so handsfree calling is possible. The other more worrying issue is that if I allow the Joying to sync my contacts with Google it wipes all of my contacts from Google and I have to restore them from a backup. Another issue I've just remembered. I can only control the volume from the thumb wheel on the steering controls. The problem is if I spin the wheel too quickly the volume goes to its maximum and the only way to fix it is to mute it or pull over turn off the engine, pull the key and restart the car. Also I can't adjust the volume up or down using the touch screen, (there are no buttons or knobs). It just seems to re-adjust the volume to a start up setting made in the units settings, if that makes sense. Despite all that I am happy with it, it's just like having a 10 inch (250mm) tablet in the dash. There are newer models and other makes so the problems I'm having may have been fixed. There is a lot of information on xda developers. This is a link to the unit with similar specifications to the one I have. https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/joying-android-8-1-intel-airmont-eight-t3897206

Incredibly interesting Shy.

Unfortunately a lot of those viewers would have been enticed by the title and subsequently disappointed by the content though.

The Braga wheels are indeed diamond cut or polished, the faces of the spokes have no paint, just lacquer. Brace yourself for the whiteworm, it usually hits just as the 3 year warranty expires, by which point Skoda will either claim they've never had complaints before, or that it's a direct result of a stone chip. The paint code is on the rear of one of the spokes, it is a three-digit extension to the alloy wheel part number... In this example "silver/8Z8". The part number for the alloy wheel is 5E0601025B, the colour or paint code is 8Z8... A word of warning, the part numbers are cast into the alloy for all different colour configurations possible for that style of wheel so be sure to find the spoke with the silver paint code and not the anthracite or other versions. For example this wheel is available from the factory in three different colours. In addition to the Silber (silver) there is Schwarz (black) and Weiss (white), all with unique three digit paint codes... I was going to suggest you try and find a picture of the back of an all-silver Braga online or you might find yourself crawling under the car with a torch! However the part number you've highlighted in your opening post already includes the paint code, 8Z8, so you have it already... The problem you'll have is Skoda don't sell it, and despite the other VAG brands also using the same paint codes, none of them sell it either. There are options out there if you Google it, but the consensus is that regular 'Diamond Silver' touch-up pens are close enough for most people...

Got my other car through the m.o.t and taxed now so will be starting to put the bodykit on this Saturday sorry its been a while guys