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Mrs Moley has put me on a special diet of Dover Sole, pizza and pancakes. I asked her if these will help fight the covid, she said no, but at least she can slide them under the door.

As a non Freedom member you have 60 minutes available to edit your posts. As a Freedom member you get an unlimited amount of time (amongst other things) to be able to edit your posts. I can't believe you were hoodwinking your fellow Briskodians with the supercar tale!

your view on that will probably depend on if you’re an engineer or accountant...

So the time has come to move my beloved Octy on and I’m super pumped to say that I’ve paid my deposit on this lovely lean green machine 💚 It’s a 2019 Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 150 DSG with the following options Variable Boot Floor Folding tow bar Exclusive Dragon Green paint That’s all it has for now but there’s a laundry list of retrofits to get through on it in time. It’s having a service and DSG oil change currently along with a full prep this week for collection in early March. I legit can’t wait to finally be a Superb owner!!!!

Yep, it's the 180 TDCI engine. Seems nippy for a big motor.

Hi stever750, same in my experience too, but I recall posts around five years back when I got my 220 vRS Octavia there were more than a few who took a cavalier attitude to this. One of the reasons I avoided the forum for a long time. That and the inability of posters to (a) bother searching properly (or even at all) when needing advice and (b) starting new topics with ridiculously vague headings, or even just to announce that their new car had landed at the dockside. Sadly there's only been a slight improvement in these areas. Personally I don't give a flying fig if the engine explodes, that's between them and their bank balance. But if they crash and injure someone or worse while uninsured they deserve everything the law throws at them.

re: consumption changes: https://www.zemo.org.uk/assets/other/E10 in Finland.pdf <-- this has a bunch of numbers on slide 12. The implication is 1% change. - Bret

Well, it's been a while but today was the day...

There was a group test on the Auto Express website last year, should still be available. Someone also mentioned the "hockey puck" to go in the lifting cup. There's a chap on Ebay (in the UK) sells versions of these, just a couple of quid. I got three different ones.

I have several jacks but the one I use most as it is light and thus easy to carry around is this: Clarke CTJ1250AB 1.25 Tonne Aluminium Trolley Jack - Machine Mart - Machine Mart Not cheap but I have just changed the wheels on My Karoq from 18 to 17" and there was plenty of clearance. As said above, buy an ice hockey puck for a few £s it ensures you do not damage the jacking points and gives you an extra 1" or so.

I think they store them under the Resolute desk so it gets uncomfortable if POTUS doesn't let a few off every so often. Or possibly Ol' Joe was just trying to find CBS on the remote and oops. Ronny Raygun used to have the same bother

I have to admit that the bit about Bugattis and Lamborghinis wasn't strictly true. Actually, it was a proper load of horse feathers. I only added that to try and make the thread slightly more interesting, even if it was a somewhat disingenuous attempt. I'm mindful that nobody likes a smart*rse (or a braggard), so it's only fair to say for the record that our other car is a ten year-old Fiat 500. And that's so light that Mrs Phutters (who is blessed with arms like tractors) can hold it aloft for nearly twenty minutes without even going pink, which is plenty long enough to rotate all four tyres and have a brew. . P.S. On an unrelated subject, do you have to have done a certain number of posts before you can edit what you've written, or is there a button somewhere that I've overlooked? .

A tip re using trolley jacks. Buy a rubber ice hockey puck and cut a slot in it to go over the sill seam jacking point. I had to also do some cut outs on the underside so it fitted the cup on the jack. Works a treat. tom

For anyone in UK desperate to buy my 2016 (66 plate) Scout I'm hoping to sell it on in the next few months. As a matter of course I tend to change my car before it's 5 years old, so I decided to offer for sale. Now coming up to 45K miles you probably won't find a nicer 4.5 year old model. See Briskoda Classifieds for more info. There's no parting my wife from her 2017 Fabia 1.2 Colour Edition (Met Green) - she's only done 6000 miles in it so far! Best wishes PhilOctaviaScout

I dislike large rims with a vengance. I also dislike having to have a larger rim size just because I choose a higher spec model. Many years ago (2012) a number of us on here managed to get Skoda UK to change the rim size on our factory ordered Yeti SEL's from 17" to 16". Potholes (especially in rural areas) will mangle any of these stagecoach sized rims and tyres in an instant. We now have a Karoq on order - same problem 18" rim size is minimum on an SEL - why FFs. If a 16" rim is acceptable (in terms of design regulations and brake caliper clearance) - why cant I have some of them? I prefer the less noisy and softer ride of a 16" wheel. I dont want to go around corners like an F1 driver.

Thanks for the detailed assessment pal, I appreciate that. I think I'll have a go with EZ through the current deal they've got going.

I would. and include a copy to John Clark Groups CEO. They will get their buts kicked.

Every point as the repairs require proper work doing. There is a premium buying an Approved Used Skoda because of the supposed rigorous checks and Workshop safety checks. The Dealerships Check list is surely not filled in. Chancers. Thompson and Potter, Part of the John Clark Group. As in also Dundee & Aberdeen Skoda Specialist cars.

Tacky.

League

it turns out he actually offered to fly KJU home to Pyongyang after the first summit IN Air Force One!! can you imagine the potential aneurysms US security services would have had if that happened

Bound

https://antyweb.pl/skoda-fabia-2021-takze-z-1-5-tsi-evo-i-travel-assist-juz-jezdzilismy/ There are a lot of reviews on foreign websites that give a lot more detail - this Polish review in particular has more pictures and analysis. I have added a picture of the dash/driving position from that article and think it looks good. The question for me is what is under the infotainment screen cover - hopefully user friendly layout.

Five (some machine!)

Rings

Good news. I ordered my VRS end of January and was told late April early May, so your timeline tracks very similar to that. Encouraging for me, but not counting chickens, it will be here when it gets here. Hope you get behind the wheel soon. 👍🏼

Smoke

I got an email from super skoda the other day saying the are not shipping to the uk or processing new uk orders - as I said hopefully this is not permanent as there is some stuff I'd like from them and it appears no one else does it

Tell

Exciting times. When did you order yours?

It was a tank from the most powerful engine in a mk1 or the earliest mk 2 tt I think. I remember coming across the diagrams when investigating mine, looking at the tank as an option and being told by a dealer it wasn’t worth it. They showed one in an old tt. At a guess I would say between 2008 and 2014, but I sadly can’t remember exact dates.

Good (To)

360 degree walk around of the car recording video on the phone should do it...

Socks (They used to wash them according to the carol!)

Shepherd

Farming

Indeed, not to mention all that decoking and valve grinding; and it is nice not to need a starting handle in the depths or winter, or have those lovely Ford Pop vacuum wipers that come to a stop when you're going up hill!

Many thanks for these replies. As someone whose first cars had 6 volt systems and no flashing indicators it's taking me sometime to adapt to modern motoring!

Also make sure you've got the spare keys! Service history will probably be ok, they will look on the car to see when it is due, paperwork not necessary. They don't always check everything when they collect the car as the detailed inspection is done back at the logistics centre. It'll be driven/trailored straight there for processing, they'll create an inspection report for the auction house and decide what refurb work is required and who is paying for it (leasing company or driver). There also has to be enough fuel in the car to get it back, if the fuel light is on you risk being charged a silly amount per litre/mile

My lease car went back at the end of november, not a skoda but was processed by BCA. they did make a point of wanting to see all the documents and there was a section on his paperwork that he had to tick to say it was present. he also photographed all the service book and manual etc. Sorry if it's not what you want to hear.

Most service is all updated and recorded online now. If your car has always been serviced at Skoda or at a garage with access to the online service database it will all be on there. I wouldnt worry about it.

My cat checkin the rarb install. went for the whiteline in the hard setting!

You have an old and outdated view of aircon and to be fair the button should be relabeled. On old systems the button would run the compressor continuously, drying out the air in the cabin and causing issues you have mentioned earlier. On modern climate systems pressing the button is just allowing the climate to use the compressor if it needs it. If the temperature selected is higher than ambient (Like now and through winter) the climate system will only run the compressor to achieve a comfortable humidity level and stop the windows misting up. I can't detect any change in economy on my 2.0Tdi 150 through winter. You are creating a problem by not letting the system have the ability to run the compressor. When you switch the aircon button off and the condenser temperature returns to ambient any moisture in the system is blown into the cabin that's why you mist up. My previous car didn't even have a button for turning off the A/C. Let the electronics do their thing and save yourself big bills down the line.

Been using EZ for a long time now, even sold some of my other brand detailing stuff as I really like the EZ products. Supercharged Shampoo (Slick & full of suds) A little goes a long way. 5* GTR Glue & Tar (Very Powerful) 5* Sleek Interior (Leaves a non greasy but instant satin dry finish & smells lovely too) 5* Lotus & Clarity glass cleaners (Safe on window tints & great at cleaning glass) 5* Chrome Spray Wax (Very glossy look, easy to apply & not only repeals but nice beads too) 5* Gloss Boss QD (I use this in-between washes, mainly to aid with drying) I have used this also to boost protection with an existing wax. 5* Voodoo (I've not used yet, just in my arsenal) so I can't comment on it. (I can't rate it yet) I don't use anything else from EZ so I can't comment on them but a friend of mine uses their SI02 ceramic wax & is always banging on at me to try it, trouble is!!! I have a few waxes (from the Jayswax range) & I want to finish them off before getting sucked in to the detailing bug again especially as I've not been so active with it like I use to be but still do enjoy it, it's now just a time to time thing for me, well as before it was always every 1-2 weeks at least being outside cleaning/detailing etc.

Rusty has been at Wellington European for a couple of weeks, I dropped it off with a list, which grew slightly as they started work. Suspension knock on full lock was caused by the subframe polybush metal inserts being slightly too long so I had torqued the bolts against the insert, not the body itself. This left play in the subframe. They're shortened now. The high pressure line from the brake booster was slightly leaking, so that line has gone off to have a replacement made locally. They're looking at the oil leaks now. But the big news is that it's finally boosting as it should, no more 4k rev cut !! It was caused by corrosion inside the wastegate making it stick, plus the banjo bolt connecting from the intake manifold was corroded, meaning it was tight but leaking and causing a vacuum leak. I'm so excited now about driving the car again.

Making sure that a replacement spring matches the OEM part number is not always easy. However, you can look for a spring that is sold just to replace just your original OEM number and not two or more OEM numbers. Brands that sell aftermarket replacement springs often have a habit of using a one size fits all approach, where they sell one spring to replace a whole list of OEM part numbers...so you do need to avoid these unless you go for one of the few brands where a good description of the spring is given and preferably a photo of the actual spring where you can count the number of coil turns. Photo on the gknautomotive website of OEM part number 3Q0511115AK Photo shows the spring has 8 coil turns Spring Design Coil spring with constant wire diameter Fitting Position Rear Axle Thickness 12,25 mm Length 364 mm Outer diameter 112 mm Weight 2,20 kg https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87923/detail?query=3Q0511115AK&numberType=1&oe=3Q0511115AK&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%203Q0511115AK;mandator:gkn;query:3Q0511115AK;groups:188;brands:1;pf:2;page:0/detail:87923;brandId:1;articleNo:87923;mandator:gkn;query:3Q0511115AK;numberType:1;oe:3Q0511115AK;groups:188 Photo on the gknautomotive website of OEM part number 3Q0511115AL Photo shows the spring has 8 coil turns Spring Design Coil spring with constant wire diameter Fitting Position Rear Axle Thickness 12,50 mm Length 359 mm Outer diameter 112 mm Weight 2,30 kg https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87924/detail?query=3Q0511115AL&numberType=1&oe=3Q0511115AL&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%203Q0511115AL;mandator:gkn;query:3Q0511115AL;groups:188;brands:1;pf:2;page:0/detail:87924;brandId:1;articleNo:87924;mandator:gkn;query:3Q0511115AL;numberType:1;oe:3Q0511115AL;groups:188 Kilen and Lesjofors are the same springs made in the same factory in Sweden. Spidan and Suplex are probably the same springs often made in Germany. Spidan are shown in the gknautomotive online catalogue, but where there's a Spidan there's always a Suplex with an identical specification and vice-versa. I would avoid the KYB version of the OEM part number 3Q0511115AK because they claim that it only has a coil spring thickness of 11.75mm instead of the 12.25mm that is claimed by Sachs, Spidan, and Suplex. KYB also claim that it weighs 1.99kg, whereas Spidan and Suplex claim that their version weights 2.20kg...which in addition to the thickness difference indicates that the KYB is a significantly lighter spring. Although Triscan sell a spring that matches only the 3Q0511115AK OEM part number, there's no specification given. Bilstein is selling just one spring to replace both 3Q0511115AK and 3Q0511115AL. I would guess that it matches the stiffer/heavier duty spring, ie. 3Q0511115AL Sachs, Spidan, and Suplex are showing just one OEM number for their spring...so hopefully they really do match that OEM part number. They all give the same specification although only Spidan and Suplex gives the weight. Although Kilen and Lesjofors don't give the specification, they are only selling their spring to replace OEM part number 3Q0511115AK...so should match this. However, it's not always the case as some of the smaller brands are sneaky and probably use the same spring to sell under more than one model number to hide the fact that you aren't getting an exact match for your OEM number. However, these smaller sneaky brands don't give the specification. Kilen and Lesjofors don't appear to be one of these sneaky brands, as many of their springs are sold to replace more than one OEM number. Also, Kilen and Lesjofors are one of the biggest sellers of aftermarket replacement springs in Europe. Kilen is often price competitive on ebay.co.uk more so than the identical Lesjofors.

Same problem for me - 2012 Superb Estate Elegance Petrol 4x4. Thanks to these posts I had the motor out, freed up with some WD40 and back here writing this post 10 mins later. Mine was just a bit stiff (too little use during Corona lockdown) and freed easily. I didn’t even remove the plug so was able to ascertain it worked ok before re-installing. A word of caution, make sure the fan assembly is properly seated when fitting it back in. Mine was slightly ‘cross threaded’ the first time I put it in and didn’t work (presumably the fan itself has very little clearance so was jamming). Keep up the good work everyone - this is a great resource!