Warrior193

Just me it seems 😆 - I would have preferred it to have been configured like a sequential box - pulling stick back under acceleration and pushing forward under braking.

Hi Simon, probably just the weather 😒 especially if the vehicle has relatively light usage.

Not the way I work - 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and 5 to 6 are all pull stick back. If the configuration could have been changed, I would have reconsidered. I had intended to mostly use DSG in manual mode, and only use auto in traffic.

You push the shift lever to one side for manual operation - then push lever forward to change up, or pull lever back to change down (yes I know, a little counter-intuitive, and one reason I decided against DSG)

Take a longer run out somewhere nice for the day and check it then. A little treat for the wagon too.

IIRC, the horn is mounted behind the front bumper, requiring its removal to access, I suggest checking a wiring diagram to see if there is a more accessible connector in the loom where voltage to the horn can be tested. Failing that, it may be an idea to locate and try replacing the relay.

Hi Lee, with your low annual mileage, your car should really be on fixed annual servicing - they usually leave the factory set for variable servicing - but you should have been asked if you wanted it changed to fixed at the handover. SFAIK the system will not change servicing regime according to actual mileage travelled.

That clicking sound will most likely be the relay, so that appears to be working ok, although the relay contacts could still be the problem.

Could very well be condensation then - surface water spraying up from roadway and cooling the exhaust system could make it act like a condenser. Is your engine petrol or diesel?

Bon soir, Monsieur, welcome to the forum. This is most likely just heavy condensation in the back-box, although it could also be a loose baffle - although that usually sounds like a rattle. Does the sound disappear after a longer run?

There are some LiFePO4 batteries out there suitable for starting cars - some up to 1400 amps rating. Price is very high at present, but I can see that improving in future.

Hi JR - while that is true for Lithium Ion and lithium Polymer (LiPo) cells, it seems that this is not the case with Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) cells.

Perhaps we will soon start to see lithium starter and hotel batteries (in EVs) being fitted as production costs drop. Note to self - do a search for cost comparison between AGM and Lithium ion batteries.

And when it does eventually fail, the engine most probably will be scrap 😒

Morning LOL, did you mean 'are now moving to lithium batteries' - rather than 'not' in your last sentence? The only real problem I can see with Lithium batteries would be thermal runaway - but that certainly appears to be very rare now.

Engine code is first 3 or 4 letters of your engine number, it is listed on line P5 of your V5 document.

Hello Adz, unless you have keyless entry or full Kessy, there is no need for Faraday pouch. If your remote is press-button type, key fob only transmits code when button is pressed.

I suspect that if 13.1 volts is the maximum charge rate delivered, the hotel battery will not fully charge in the time it takes to recharge the HV battery.

IIRC, all 'sealed for life' lead-acid vehicle batteries are valve regulated (VRLA) type now - they are designed to vent through the valve if abused.

^^^^^ This plus suspension lift.

As @toot says, you need to get an accurate level reading first - this can only be done when car is on level ground. Consequences of significant under or overfilling oil are equally bad for the engine. I would suggest adding no more than 1/4 litre until you can get the car to somewhere the level can properly checked.

At 13 .1 volts, your hotel battery would barely be receiving a charge, correct charging voltage for AGM or EFB is around 14.7 V. It is possible your existing battery has become badly sulphated, affecting the charge rate, but If that is the maximum charge rate available while the HV battery is being charged, I can see more problems in the future, even with a new battery.

Closer to 10%, but nowhere like enough to prevent drastic reduction of life. Persistent undercharging, even at around 60%, (approx. 12.3 V) is not great for any lead-acid battery.

Not the same as my Octavia is Mk3 - but I had both battery and alternator replaced in first year of warranty. Replacement battery (Moll EFB) is still reasonable at 6 years, despite low annual miles.

@rmills has anyone actually checked the terminal voltage of the hotel (starter, etc battery) when the HV battery is charging?