Alasdair1

Are you sure its from the seal and not the flexi section. Oil has a weird habit of defying gravity etc. If its from the flange then maybe some hylomar blue as well as the gasket. Have used it in the past when flange was pitted and not making decent seal. Alasdair

If its shutting down when driving and p0606 I wonder if its a wiring issue either poor connection to ECU/broken wire or bad earth thats cutting the engine. It may be triggered by vibration/bumps in road but ok at idle. Not sure if the strip fuses beside battery feed anything that would cause shutdown. On my sons MK1 they are individual and are prone to hair line cracks that are impossible to see until removed but I think on the MK3 they are a complete sealed unit. I assume as its a new battery its reading a decent voltage etc. It may also be a software issue. Alasdair

Have a check for broken wires as well while your at it. If I remember correctly my sons connector was supposed to be clipped to something but was hanging loose. Its also not unknown for garages to just undo sensor without disconnecting connector and twist/put strain on the wires. Alasdair

Might be worth checking wiring to sensor/sensors. Had emission problem on my sons fabia and it was poor connection between sensor and loom. i had replaced sensor when fixing exhaust so I new it was brand new. Cleaned connector which was pretty oily/dirty and emissions were ok Alasdair

It does sound a bit high but depends if its just the clutch or includes DMF? Saying that the price of car repairs is getting high in general. Alasdair

Has the temp problem been since the stat was changed or has it just started. On mine it was ok in the summer but not when the weather turned cold. Alasdair

Its also possible that the wrong stat was used. I have seen two one is a lot lower temp than the other. Think one may be for very cold climate and the other hot but not sure.

Cables are no problem on mine. You have to lock up gearstick with think 8mm drill bit and then release and reattach cables. Think theres a you tube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeOoDJuhSx8 Cant remember if I had to remove air box etc. As said also check that the cast weighted part on top of gbox selector and plastic bit are moving freeely. Alasdair

Sounds like the thermostat is failing or stuck open. My old Octavia did this. Took ages to get upto temp and when it was cold weather only reached around 70 degrees plus heaters were really poor.

Found this on here. Think there are two on the BKD engine. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/245159-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor/ Think you can test with a multimeter when cold and then in hot water. The resistance should change but not sure if it drops or rises when hot.

I wouldnt bother changing brake fluid at the moment. Just make sure you keep reservoir topped up when bleeding clutch so you dont let level drop enough to risk gettig air in brake system. Hopefully there is air in clutch system and by bleeding it your gearchange will improve. Might be a good idea to reset the selector cables at the same time and check the plastic bit the cables attach to above gearbox is moving freely and not stiff. Had a Seat altea that the gearshift especially in 4,5th was really stiff then I snapped the plastic bit as it had seized. Looks a bit like this

Although the slave is in the gearbox there must be a bleed nipple externally. It does sound like the slave may be failing or the master letting fluid past the seals or air in the system. I bled my Mk2 but had to use a pressure bleeding kit(gunsons) to clear all the air after master cylinder replacement. I would bleed the system first and see if it improves. When I did mine the fluid came out black at first then eventually normal. Just make sure you dont let reservoir drop too much as its also the brake reservoir as you will need VCDS to bleed the ABS unit. Alasdair

Glad you found the problem. Its surprising the fuses didnt blow before the wire/switch melted but thats car electrics for you. Well done for tracing it back Alasdair

Had a quick look and there seem to be as you say a fair few with different end letters. Did come accross an ebay site that repair/recondition though They are charging £65 inc postage. Not sure how reliable they are https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286909348755?_skw=5K0953569B&itmmeta=01KAKERDXZPFB5V4GQ834240Z8&hash=item42cd213b93:g:~m4AAeSwVZVpBN6r&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZ21wAOb%2FV4OFlGUo2LmWf0%2FxwHvgU5TsFSlJgHQrmf8%2FrWYcDv%2FuYBv70QZVtiL0h61j%2F43WLQrA5lOcyL4igF8RXix2QTsvNBtxY%2B%2BtNuzt4QsWDVa1zHLCFrLGFKiunqSu758GpPrlHW%2Fi1tz5EK3Ijuom6m%2BUSbPiSwyTdp%2F7DrvdWvGBxxZMwSIgHlwPXkw3RSRuk34q93VgB94PwPtuxNRwTYuashg46sGTQNBPmFsrKxv7PNZZiqE8r1PWiAUov%2Bv1j4DvoKQQVIrkld%2BtEnmRDdkWlN7mdXyyeSw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6Lf4e7UZg

If its just the flat cable then I think you can replace it. Alasdair

Could be the coolant temp sensor. If they fail completey they will show up a code and can put EML on but if its sending wrong info then it generally wont but can affect cold starting/running. I would change it as they are fairly cheap. Alasdair

Folks old mk1 fabia 1.9tdi had problems with alarm going off due to failing siren battery. Local garage disabled alarm as the car was old an doubt anyone would bother stealing it. Not sure how they did it. Try hoovering the internal sensor. I think its near the interior light. If they get too dusty they can trigger the alarm randomly. You could try and remove fuse/fuses to see if it makes a difference although not sure if the alarm also supplies cluster?

Maybe engine coolant temp sensor or you have a vacuum leak thats sealing itself when warm. Have you had it read for any codes? Alasdair

I always go for a decent mid range tyre. As said been using GT radial FE2 and all season on my cars with no probems plus good grip in wet. I have a fair few old cars sitting around for spares/(maybe repair). If I let the tyres go flat then they seem to crack very quickly when sitting. Never had this problem years ago. Have an old landrover with Avons on it and its sat for nearly 20 years and tyres are still fine so I assume modern tyres are more likely to perish in sunlight/weather. Probably more plastic/nylon than rubber these days Alasdair

Had same problem with quite a few fairly cheap brands including dunlop which were on car when I got it. Tyre service said they were just over 5 years old going by date stamp and were prone to cracking. Also had a set of Michelin lose there shape No bulges just out of roundness. Tyre service guy said they get it a lot with Michelin after about 3-4 years. Been using GT radial FE2 and so far no problems.

Sons got GT radial all season on his fabia. Plenty of grip in wet and dry. I run GT radial summer on my Octavia with zero complaints. Not sure if they do the size your looking for but they are a mid range tyre which I have used for a couple of years now. Watch the wet/dry rating on winter/all season tyres. Some are really bad.

Came accross this when looking. Not sure if its any help but it mentions running a wire from fuse 54 to actual headlight to check.

Try disconnecting battery overnight and see if it resets the ECU. It may have got stuck in a loop. Alasdair

If your getting coolant coming out of the reservoir its being over pressurised somehow. I would get it checked for exhaust gasses in the reservoir if you cant see any noticeable bubbles. The spike in temp may be an airlock thats caused by exhaust gasses entering the coolant system and then the car is managing to clear air lock. Do your heaters work all the time. Had a HG failure and the first thing was heaters blowing cold

Check under the scuttle plate/windscreen wiper area. I think there is a drain hole that can get clogged. Alasdair