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Stop. I posted last night on the phone and quickly. Leave the cable you are touching. The is for the pawl locking in PARK. The yellow plastic bit the release for when stuck in P. No way should that be to do with the issue you are having

I'd never even heard of them till now. Just had a quick read and I think I'd have still gone with the standard ones. I'm a gentle cruiser these days :)

Ever since I bought this car a year ago, I've been unimpressed with the braking. I find myself pressing the pedal far more than I'd expect - it doesn't give me a ton of confidence. The seller said they'd recently replaced the front discs - so I guess it was some really cheap stuff that went on due him knowing he was shortly selling the car? Not sure what sizes I'd need, but its the iV 1.4 petrol hybrid model, with 18" wheels. I guess these all have the same brake sizes. Can anyone recommend a good combination of discs and pads to swap in? FWIW, I don't do loads of miles, just a 10mile commute back and forth 3x per week - so performance is more important than durability for me. Thanks!

Did you get the sport version?

. Update for anyone who uses an EV energy tariff where the energy company control your charging - such as Octopus IOG. After I updated the car the first time, the API sync was broken. I didn't notice at first, but the Octopus app no longer recognised I'd plugged my car in, so it didn't try to find me a charging slot and the car just kept charging by itself. You need to remove the device (the car) from the Octopus App, and re-add it. And top tip, it asks for Mileage and VIN - get them from the app, the mileage on the app has to match, and it isn't always exactly the same as the mileage on the dashboard!

Hello. I have a problem with the AC flap motors. It has actually been going on for a while, but just now starting to actually feel the symptoms. My car is left hand drive. This means that it has some of the flap motors underneath the steering wheel. First off, I scanned by car with a generic OBD tool and it threw "B109071 Deforster flap motor, Actuator jammed" and "U112300 Databus error value received". Some googling led me to believe the motor in question was behind the glovebox. So I pulled that, opened it up, cleaned, assembled, all is working fine. (This seems to be the motor that adjust airflow output, everything works) Some back and fourth the error won't clear, and now I have "no basic setting" errors too. The climatronic I have is the one with a screen in the middle and two dials either side, auto function and 6/7 buttons below. The procedure to reset end stops should be auto, face air and AC. This initiated the procedure, but it won't clear the no basic error. Is the only way though VCDS or similar? Which brings me to my actual problem. The problem is the dual motor assembly under the steering wheel. I've gotten a look at it, I can confirm it is actually this thing that causes the problem. I can hear it, and I can see it. the motor does not stop moving. It goes back and fourth and makes clicking noises as it engages the gear back and fourth, back and fourth. I think it is probably the motor internal potentimeter that doesnt give a reliable reading, as mentioned many places. I managed to track down the service manual, and the first step is in another service manual. "Remove dash panel"... Remove dash panel, well sounds easy enough right? I look it up, and the dash ""panel"" is the entire dash fascia... I am not equipped to tackle a complete dash apart job, nor experienced enough. Its very ridiculous to do that just to get to some motors. Please tell me someone has done this before without taking everything to bits? The big problem is the metal bracket in front of the motor assembly.. I've attached a photo. You can see the white plastic gear/actuator which is the one that clicks as it engages I cannot find anything online about this on a Skoda FABIA that looks like mine. There is one on an Octavia, but it is an entirely different thing. Best regards, Chris

Set of Crossclimate 3's went on today. That'll make my IV a tank for the winter months, so fannying on with snow and ice like everyone else. Had them on my old Exeo, and I could literally drive around 4x4's that had got stuck.

They don't come as standard on the mk4, well maybe on the VRS model they do but not below as far as I'm aware (I have SE L which doesn't have one) They were an available option though I believe so some mk4 hatch's will have them

Hi, new to the forum, but I have been lurking for a while. My parents decided to get a new car when the Opel Corsa couldn't hold all our stuff for a driving holiday. I was about 4 or 5 then. The got a used Skoda Fabia estate MK1. They liked it so much that when Skoda announced MK2 and they didn't like the look of that they jumped on getting a new MK1. The only thing wrong with that was the colour. It was way too dark than what we actually wanted when ordering it. That eventually became the car I learned to drive on. In the midst of getting my lisence, my parents bought a new MK3 Fabia Estate. This is now my car, and I love it. Best regards, Chris

Agreed. The battery needs changing and I need to make sure I charge it. Amazingly the battery Seems well capable of starting the car.

The shift is definitely cable. You can see it move when pulling the shift lever. I have had a first go at adjusting it but the **** socket extension dropped in into somewhere….. we’ve all been there. Finished lunch so I’m back out to have another go. This time with the extensions taped together. I’m 99% certain I’ve found the problem but getting onto the bolt and pulling the cable etc presents a minor challenge!

If the shift is fly by wire as E13 says, a failing battery can definitely be the cause of many electrical gremlins. 11.6 volts on no load is below 20% SOC and is well below battery danger level!

Does the signal chime occur after the pairing process? I have never Edit Controller 4c On Cluster Software 608 tpms Reset dont work

I doubt driving around a block is long enough for the system to relearn. On a MY12, you probably don't even need a button assuming you have a maxidot cluster running SW: 06xx or newer... Try these instructions: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/363554-tpm/#findComment-4746144

If the washer pump is actually operating without any fluid appearing at the rear nozzle, I'd be checking for a blockage, kink or leak - possibly where the washer hose loops between the body and the rear hatch/tailgate.

My wife had a cold run to the borders yesterday, was getting about 3.6m/kWh. As we've only had the car in good weather so far it's quite the hit from the 4.2 we've been getting. Still the previous ID.4 would have been around 3.4 m/kWh in similar conditions.....

No luck yet. Coded Instruments 17 and ABS 03, Also tried Electronics Byte 8. After coding & scanning there were no errors and the dash TPMS warning now lights momentarily at IGN on for dash lamp self test. Checked a front tyre pressure at 2.4 Bar, did ABS TPMS reset via vcds (accepted) & drove around the block. Reduced pressure to 2 Bar and repeated the test drive. No TPMS warning. I know on my V.W working ABS TPMS is very sensitive, it comes on after a tyre change when new tread is thicker and rolling radius increases. I've sometimes had it come on working on the car IGN on and jacking a wheel. I'm puzzled that if it was simple to enable, they would have done so on the car when new. According to vcds labels, resetting TPMS in the ABS controller should work without a reset button and the only thing left could be that first hard reset is an enabling function? From a few photos of past mod. kits, one wire end had a connector pin. I'll guess that's the wire for the ABS connector.

Try skoda-parts.com. Highly recommend!

I normally stay away from Champion as have found there plugs not very reliable. Not sure about there glowplugs but generally I use NGK on everything and have had no problems. Old mechanic friend said get engine hot before trying to remove glow plugs and also a bit of engine oil/releasol dripped around them for a day or two before attempting removal. Alasdair

Took delivery of the car a few weeks ago and couldn't believe how pathetic the horn was. Ended up ordering a twin Hella kit with splitter wire included and looked for some guidance on best way to replace the roadrunner sound installed. Mostly worked it out myself but thought I could help others. Firstly, it's located behind the bumper on the nearside (UK model) and the easiest way is to remove the fog light. Use a trim removal tool and gently prise the trim around the light out from the bumper, starting nearest to the centre of the car. Prise the rest of it out working towards the wheel, be careful with the last part as the clips on this bit pull towards the front of the car. Then remove the 3 torx bolts (T25) from the fog light and pull the light out, remove the wire connection and place it out of the way. The original horn is clearly visible in the gap. This can be removed with a 13mm socket and the wire disconnected. Clip the splitter wire into the original harness, plug in the new horns and test to make sure they work! Bolt the bracket to each new horn and mount with the original 13mm bolt through both of the new brackets. Make sure they are positioned out of the way so that your fog light has room to go back in and cable tie the new wires out of the way so they can't jiggle about. Replace the light by plugging it back in and tightening the 3 screws to hold it in place. Push the trim back into place and test that fog light and horns still work. Hope this helps, took me around half an hour.

...because database has been updated to v70.

Haven't noticed on mine either - have you got adjustable rideheight?

links in head post have been updated 2026. Q3

I am in need of the same update software: MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_MU8755

I posted in 2024 on this thread above with my experience. I see that others are affected by it. I went back in my garage to find my old handbrake to take photos, because it is not intuitive how the handbrake works until you see its insides. My car is 65 plate, delivered Nov 2015, leather version (SE L). My problem was that the plastic pawl was broken, NOT the button. See attached photos. Broken Plastic pawl. This ATTACHES to the button, with a spring underneath. The spring pressure acts on the button to PUSH it, and therefore the plastic rod FORWARDS. Sideways view of plastic rod inside the handle. The rod attaches to a Claw (grey colour) via a pivot (shiny silver colour). This picture simulates the Button Pressed, Rod pushed back, the Claw is disengaged from the fixed ratchet (black colour). This picture simulates parked position. Button is not pressed, Rod is pushed forwards under spring pressure, the claw is engaged onto ratchet. This picture simulates button OR pawl failure (or just pressing the button). Without the button or spring, there are NO forces acting on the plastic rod at all, pulling it forward or back. It will be luck whether it engages with ratchet at all. It is easy for the plastic rod to "fall" backwards, this disengages the claw from the ratchet. Note the claw and ratchet is greased. Label on the handbrake assembly that was removed. So you see I had the 5E0711301D manufactured 11/09/15 and it broke in 2024. Very similar to how others found it, button and spring randomly in cabin. Hopefully that helps others understand what is happening. This is why I said in my original post it is not intuititve how the handbrake works because of the way the button and spring interacts with the plastic rod. Lose the spring, you lose the ratchet engagement, and you lose functionality. I still maintain it is a ridiculously non-proportinate critical failure: a tiny plastic breakage of the button or plastic pawl leads to a significant safety problem. You can replace a broken button relatively simply (it is actually an instruction to do this when replacing handbrake cables) but with a broken pawl, you will need to replace this assembly. For those budding engineers, this is a good study in FMEA/FMECA.