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Hello everyone! For the past month I've went into a rabbit hole to try and figure out why my car has been running like **** and when I say **** I mean rough idle gas consumption ~1.5-2+l/h on idle when driving and the car is cold it stutters and losses boost and boosts again rapidly. I've fixed a hose that was split open after the n249 (or whatever it's called) and right before the Y split, and the PCV hose after the Y split that connects to the engine. I was hoping that these fixes solved my problem but unfortunately they didn't. These codes still persist. Also almost the same time that these problems started I wired an amplifier and the positive wire I fished it though the gormet below the steering wheel (could I have damaged any wires there?). And before all these, about 2 months ago, when my car was cold when I was driving and I pressed the clutch the rpms would drop like crazy and sometimes it would turn off, and this happened until the car warmed up. But I blamed the clutch switch in front of the pedal that was faulty, could that be the start of the O2 failure; I'm sorry for the long paragraph, but I can't seem to figure out the problem and it's driving me crazy and neither a mechanic wants to spend time to search the cause. Some info about the 02 sensor: When it's on idle the voltage that it reads is 0.020 volts and sometimes it jumps to normal volts, when the car is turned off it reads ~1.5 volts. The heater S1 was turning off and on rapidly on idle. And when I tried to test the sensor it said test off and after a while it that it failed, without giving me the option to test it myself manually My Gallery — Postimages 20261111_164320.mp4 20261111_164154.mp4

You will find these “Advanced KESSY” settings in Car>Settings>Exterior and then swipe twice to the right.

When car key removed from ignition the radio goes into its power down mode. Pressing power button with key removed results in radio staying powered off as it always has. I believe radio is correctly wired- it has been behaving flawlessly for 1 year. Problems recently occurred when new starter motor fitted. If I reverse the red and yellow wires the radio, currently running off switch live, will then be powered on the permanent live. This probably would stop the radio cutting out but would leave the radio powered on all the time resulting in a flat battery?

As you say problems with the older cars but the newer ones are better I have a 21 plate VRS and never had a problem Re the sensor, its because there is condenstion in front of the camera and blocking it, but as you say it clears within a few mins

Hi all, new to an Enyaq Coupe, not new to the forum or Skodas in general..... I've just bought a 2024 vRS coupe. I went to fit my dash cam to it and found a hardwire nextbase kit already fitted - result! Unfortunately, the fuse used was a permanent 12v live (!). I've since moved it to a switched 12v. I've been having app 'no connection' and 'battery protection' statuses. Historically, my Superb L&K from 2014 had a dash cam running from the 12v socket, which, ultimately meant the start/stop 12v battery required replacement. I'm wondering if the fact that the dash cam in my new car was connected to a permanent 12v has caused the battery to fail prematurely. I think it's worth changing the 12v battery to a new one to see if it sorts the app status issues. Has anyone changed the 12v battery? Anything to look out for? Cheers S

I only thought about upgrading the bulbs in indicators and rear lights ….. until I joined this forum…… the you start seeing what others have done and their “bad influence” tends to effect you …. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE 😂😂😜

Just finished work picked up the eBay package…. Took a before and after picture… can’t see the actual unit but you can certainly tell the difference 🤪

Hey there Chaps, I am getting the same issue . Skoda Superb Elegance 2012 plate. "Software Download- Source Activated, Searching for SWL Image" Would it be possible to send over the software link so I can burn it onto a CD. Many thanks

in video, this chemisist removed all, first soot and then ash with 25% HCL. listen him again.

Hi all, after my lovely Superb L&K hybrid was written off by a myopic cretin that couldn't hit the ar5e end of a cow (but managed to find the front of my car) I decided to go full electric. My Mrs had an Enyaq before, so it was a natural choice for me. I now have an Enyaq Coupe vRS (2024). This was a pic at the dealer, the wheel covers have since come off.....

Worth a go for soot, but bear in mind a flush or DIY clean won't shift much of the ash at 230,000 km. If you do clean it, reset the DPF ash/soot learned values with a diagnostic tool afterwards, or the ECU will keep calculating it as blocked.

Anyone else using the auto function for heating and ventilating? Just today I noticed a setting to increase the intensity of both in the seat and back of both front seats and also the auto function. I didn't even know you could have heat and ventilate at the same time!

no need to open dpf, many people cleaned them by therirselves. look for this video, you ill get all answers.

Welcome to Briskoda 👋

here, you have latest 480T firmware, also your 235T https://mibvault.com/files/MST2%20-TechniSat%20Preh/Firmware/SKODA_ZR/EU

Hi Skoda forum, just joining after buying an Enroq VRS in gorgeous red. Picking it up next week.

And there's now a Sportline trim that looks far better in my opinion. You can see it on the Skoda UK configurator, and the International brochure at Skoda-Auto.com has details. (The UK brochure hasn't been updated yet.)

Read it. Anytime you like. Search. VW recommendation of VW 502 00 oil euro 5 tsi engines 5 years and over.

No hurry. 🙂

I can not link it just now, but a man of your ability can read it easily. Do a key word search. If i could link it because on a very poor internet connection. I have to keep reposting. Or maybe someone will link it for you @Lee might help me out.

Waiting for link or doc.

I'm still stuck with engine timing of 38 on VCDS, which won't change no matter what I do with the pump (retard or advance). It still drives though but totally lacking power and hesitates. Things I've tried so far are: "Hammer mod" to get the injection quantity adjusted so the car would idle nicely. Re-checked timing marks which are still lined up. Changed crank sensor. Check resistance on the #3 injector needle lift connector. Used AI and VCDS to check the #3 injector needle lift sensor. Used AI and VCDS to check the N108 sensor New fuel temp sensor. Turbo was off and cleaned and I have re-checked the the shaft spins freely. Does anyone know if I should check the static timing with a dial gauge? The 6mm locking pin lines up but I wonder if that could be out? (so the IP is out of the correct timing when the 6mm locking pin is in place) I'm getting desperate as I need a car and winter is here. Any other suggestions? Cheers for any help

Well you will understand way the made that recommendation within a few years of introducing the Euro 5 TSI,s and having so many issues. 1.2, 1.4, 1.8 & 2.0 TSI,s. Issues with higher than acceptable oil use with some, timing chain issues a premature expiring engines especially 1.4 TSI Twin chargers and 1.8 / 2.0 TSI,s. Long Life Oil, lots of short life engines.

I don't use AI. I just understand how VW group specify oils. If there's an official VW group document you're referring to, I'm sure you'll manage to post it or link to it in due course.

Do not use AI mode. Use the key words VW recommendation euro 5 tsi,s oil 5 years +. VW 502 00 'Usually 5w 40 full synthetic. & they explain why. And that has been the case since 2014.