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For ease of handling trailers single-handed, I used to keep nose weight fairly low and used a hitch stabiliser instead - particularly the type that uses an adjustable single leaf and friction lining. This prevented excessive rear sag of tow vehicle and made rig totally stable. (IMSMW, Stabilo was the make)

The vinyl was **** and didn't stick to the axle, I got it on there with frog tape but it wasn't TIGHT like we needed it to be. I threw some yellow at it because, well, we're here now. and tbh it'll be perfectly fine for what i need it to do, remind me not to break this beam, after i touch it up with a black paint stick.

Not properly coded if doesn't work after mib change

I made them check by the tire guy with the instrument that activates them and he showed me they’re active; making a diagnosis with Odis the result was “system turned off” so now I have to understand how to turning it on again!

I reckon it could be retrofitted. The holder is available on Ali express. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvrOk82 It’s 3 wires. Permanent live, permanent earth and a live which comes on with the boot opening which is probably there for your existing light. I can’t imagine the trim is much different so should be achievable.

Ahh I want better trunk light for my trunk as well.. :/ On the facelift, the light is not removable..

For anyone wanting this VW have answered our prayers. Part number 3T0947417F is from a new Tiguan, multivan or T6 caravelle and is a straight replacement but with cool white LED. Thanks @Danoid for the discovery. There’s some on eBay in the uk for around £30 and I think direct from vw would be around £60-80. Just ordered mine from eBay so will post. A pic when it arrives.

Check your sensors. If you can connect normaly to 55 module, your sensors died. Aswell had problems with faulty module and sensors from ali since get one which works

Maybe it would be better to query on an Australian caravan forum The car is capable of pulling the weight but cannot cope with that 10% nose weight. The difference in advice between countries is because of the Hitch. In the Uk the hitch head contains internal, replaceable friction pads (essentially brake pads) that clamp down hard onto the sides of the car's 50mm towball. This dampens the very first millimeter of lateral movement to physically stop the caravan from entering a high-speed sway or "snake." If your hitch mechanism is just a standard A frame directly on to the car you have a bit of an engineering dilemma to reach your 80kg nose weight. You need to adjust load backward from the front up to the axle , you should not put load behind the axle to counter. The only other option is to remove weight from the front of the trailer

@pab567 would you be able to pm me the link to the download?

I really want to keep the rear boxes As I’m hoping to keep a mega deep sound from it Resonator delete be ok

I have seen that people who even have the rear boxes deleted on their 1.5TSi still don’t get that much sound but idle is very different to under load. With mine being nearly not noticeable unless cold until under load and changing WOT does create some DSG farts, would like to have a video outside of mine but not gotten around to it

If the new master is slightly out of tolerance compared to new one the actuator rod might be sitting too tight. You could try 0.5-1mm washers/shims to bring it forward slightly. Just done my daughters 205gti and had same problem. Got some washers and cut them into C sections Loosened master and slid them in place. Didnt take much about 1/2mm Hers was fine when cold but happend once driven for a while. Same as yours left for a while and it was fine. Alasdair

Yes that’s correct one for the Octavia on my 220 Superb, they had to make the end a little larger but does everything I had hoped

Yep angle grinder time. Sons were the same although his are slightly different with three nuts welded to bracket on top. Sheared two and third just spun. If you have a welder a quick spot on top might do. Give the threads on the ball joint a really good clean and releasol. If it starts spinning in its socket its a nightmare to get an allen/hex key in end to hold it. Had to cut my sons off as well. Alasdair

Cut them off if you have a tie rod extractor you’re good, in my Fabia and other vag I use this set https://www.amazon.it/supporto-eiettore-universale-estrattore-sferico/dp/B01N6NU329

Sorry I should have stated I'm in Australia and they recommend 8 to 10 percent that's just going off a google search I done I will tag it because it may be wrong? Which would put the van I'm looking at around 146kg but it does have gas bottles up front and a Annex stored in the middle of the van which I could move to the back or to the car I'm guessing would help? So do you think I would be able to lower it that low because that's like 50-60 kg? Thanks for your your response/help it's much appreciated!

Please try to do it and give feedback. In my case bring possitive results. Generally i Heard that the problem in vag group.

According to the wiring diagrams if you have the extended service intervals (ESI) you have the oil sensor in the oil pan, however attached there are the wiring diagrams, but probably you will need to code the different interval for the oil changes. From the 3 pin connector of the oil sensors in the pan you need to wire the pin this way T3F/1 (indicate the pin n° 1 in the connector T3F of the oil sensor) this pin have to be wired to the fuse n°3 which is already used so you need to split the wire and solder the one to power the oil sensor T3F/2 this pin is a ground in the ecu wiring harness you will need to find the pin T14a/7 and (like for the fuse) split the wire and solder there the new ground T3F/3 this is the pin that goes to the instrument cluster pin n° T32A/11 that need to be added because there is no wire in that position in the connector

https://towcar.info/outfitmatch.php Is good guide to check your specific set up by the exact make and models you have

where have you got the 150kg from? The recommended nose weight for a caravan is between 5 and 8% So using a set of scales and an axle stand you can adjust things in the caravan, awning etc to achieve your 80kg on the tow ball

Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone here who has worked on the interior trim of an Octavia Mk3 Combi can help me out. I have a 2018 Skoda Octavia Mk3 (5E) Combi/Estate, equipped with the optional rear side airbags in the leather-covered bolsters next to the rear seats. While installing an aftermarket reversing camera and routing the wiring through the car, I accidentally dislodged the right C-pillar trim. I've spent quite some time trying to refit it, but I can't get it to sit properly. The main problems are: - The rear section of the C-pillar won't clip properly into the upper right luggage-compartment trim. - The lower front corner, where the C-pillar meets the plastic wheel-arch trim and leather-covered side-airbag bolster, isn't sitting correctly. - I've tried repositioning the trim, but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to align the locating tabs and clips properly. I've purchased the official Skoda workshop manual (General Body Repairs, Interior – Octavia III, Edition 08.2018). According to the manual, the complete factory removal procedure involves removing the lower wheel-arch trim, which on vehicles equipped with rear side airbags requires removing the airbag assembly. I'd really like to avoid removing the leather-covered airbag bolster, especially after reading about other owners struggling to refit its upper retaining hook. My plan is to: 1. Remove the right D-pillar trim. 2. Release the fasteners securing the right luggage-compartment side panel. 3. Pull the boot-side panel away just enough to gain access, without removing it completely. 4. Fold the rear seat backrest down to gain more working room. 5. Carefully realign and refit the C-pillar, leaving the leather airbag bolster untouched. My questions are: - Has anyone successfully refitted the C-pillar on an Octavia Mk3 Combi using this approach? - Can the right luggage-compartment side trim be loosened enough without removing the leather-covered rear side-airbag bolster? - How exactly should the lower front corner of the C-pillar fit against the wheel-arch trim? Does it slide behind it, overlap it, or engage with a separate clip? - Is there a particular order for engaging the C-pillar's locating guides and clips during reassembly? I've attached photos showing the gaps at both ends of the C-pillar. Any advice, detailed photos or experience from someone who has done this job would be hugely appreciated. I'd like to get everything back together properly without breaking more clips or disturbing the airbag assembly. Thanks in advance!

Hi there as the tittle states I have a Skoda superb 2014 diesel and I'm looking to get a caravan which is a avan ray 2004 with a weight of around 1460kg. I understand it's well within its tow weight, but my concern is the tow ball weight from what I have googled the 2014 Skoda superb has a tow ball weight of 70-80kg and the caravan would have about a 150 kg weight I'm just wondering is it safe to do so with the car? Do I have change any suspension or anything? I have read another post of people easily towing this size and more with this car but the post was from 13 years ago so I thought I would just ask here for help and sorry about the lack of knowledge as I'm very much a novice. Thanks in advance

Hi there as the tittle states I have a Skoda superb 2014 diesel and I'm looking to get a caravan which is a avan ray 2004 with a weight of around 1460kg. I understand it's well within its tow weight, but my concern is the tow ball weight from what I have googled the 2014 Skoda superb has a tow ball weight of 70-80kg and the caravan would have about a 150 kg weight I'm just wondering is it safe to do so with the car? Do I have change any suspension or anything? I have read another post of people easily towing this size and more with this car but the post was from 13 years ago so I thought I would just ask here for help and sorry about the lack of knowledge as I'm very much a novice. Thanks in advance

Hello, I am in the middle of replacing the front suspension on my Fabia mk2 Greenline. I have got most of the bits off that I need to, just got to the front left wishbone bolts. They were really tight to get off. 2 of them have sheared completely & the third one just spins. I can feel the bolt is not spinning, but the nut turns & never moves. I have given them a good clean, incase there was some rust stopping it. I then tried to the drivers side & all 3 of these just spin too, not really tight. I am guessing that I am going to need to cut them off, or is there some trick to this? Any help would be gratefully accepted. Thanks, Matt