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Not sure, but there is a setting to enable the windows to close if it starts raining...

A heads up for you: did you know that eBay has a guarantee that if parts from their platform don't fit, you can return them FOC?

Can’t comment on him, but I travel over an hour to get to my usual service place. I pass about three dealers on the way!

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice regarding a recurring problem with my Skoda Octavia. Car details: Skoda Octavia II (1Z) Model/type: 1Z523C 2.0 TDI Common Rail Engine code: CFHC 103 kW / 140 hp Model year: 2013 I have been having recurring problems with the throttle valve/throttle actuator for several years. The throttle valve has already been replaced three times, approximately at two-year intervals. What concerns me now is that after the third replacement, the fault has returned after only about five months. The current diagnostic scan shows the following faults: P2100 – Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open Status: Active/Static P2111 – Throttle Actuator Control System – Stuck Open Status: Passive/Intermittent P242C – Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low, Bank 1 Sensor 3 Status: Passive/Intermittent The P242C fault is new. During the previous throttle valve failures, I only had faults related to the throttle system; there was no exhaust gas temperature sensor fault. After having replaced the throttle valve three times, and with the latest one apparently developing a fault after only five months, I am starting to wonder whether the throttle valve itself is really the root cause. Could there be an underlying problem causing repeated throttle actuator failures, for example a wiring/connector or electrical supply problem, an EGR/intake-related issue, excessive contamination, or something else specific to the CFHC engine? I’m also interested to know whether anyone has seen P2100/P2111 together with P242C on this engine. Could the EGT sensor/circuit fault somehow be related to the recurring throttle problem, or are these most likely two independent issues? Before replacing the throttle valve for a fourth time, I would really like to understand why this keeps happening. Has anyone experienced something similar on a CFHC 2.0 TDI, or can suggest what should be checked next? Thanks in advance for any technical advice or experience. Best regards Luca

The Sat Nav knew the road was closed as it was showing as closed, I suspect because I had entered a rural post code it was too vague to determine a reasonable alterative route. I was coming from the north west and the closed road ran horizontally, I knew the parallel road to the north and once I got to a position roughly north of the post code it then produced the correct route. I find the built in Sat Nav is generally very good. Where I live we get a lot of temporary dynamic road closure during the day which may only last 1-3 hrs. The built in Sat Nav is very good at reporting these and roads with slow moving traffic - its almost like its using data from other vehicle with the same Sat Nav system.

I think @MarioVrs has an issue with the fact that the wrong parts have been delivered and now questioning that. The thing I find is that they give you every part under the sun - even when you've selected a vehicle and that should filter out what you want: my example was the Superb 280 is 340mm front discs and 310mm rears. All other Superbs (4x4 and FWD) are 312mm front and 300mm rear. Despite the autodoc website knowing I have my car selected, they would list all of the size options. Fine if you know what to look for, but for a layman who wants to buy rear discs and doesn't spot the difference then that's where the issues arise. That isn't necessarily an Autodoc thing solely - all sellers seem to not be able to differentiate between the 3 different versions of the EA888 engine in the 280 from pre to post FL. But I think this thread is that Autodoc's customer service and ease of return more than offsets any saving over popping down to the local GSF etc.

Whilst I've not had issues with AutoDoc in terms of delivery and the like I'd reinforce the need to be very careful in terms of due diligence on parts and part numbers. A search on a particular vehicle, or even a particular part number can come up with a lot of 'variations on a theme' so it's important to drill down into the further info that is available on the webseite and to double and triple check that what you want is what you are seeing offered on screen. My example re the above is with the rear arch liners for my daughter's Citigo - they're what I wanted, look to be suitable and arrived on time, are vastly cheaper than the OE parts but are clearly 'pattern' parts that 'will fit' but that are not an exact copy of the OE part. In my case the difference is that the OE part has the appropriate fitting screw holes already in them making finding the corresponding holes in the chassis and mounting them easier, whereas the ones I ordered don't have the fitting holes and I'll need to do the reverse - find the chassis holes and then drill the liners to suit. That wasn't clear from the website and just makes things slightly more complicated (albeit not bad enough to warrant returning them given the price differential!). Also I'd suggest a careful check of AutoDoc against other suppliers such as ILLParts - as prices can vary and I found some parts were cheaper at the other suppliers.

Today only a short trip out to fill the tank, as usual within a few yards of travel the 'update' message appeared, this was an ideal opportunity to do the install when I got back & parked up in the garage overnight, however the plan was not straightforward, once back home for the life of me I could not find any way to get 'Update' back on the screen, I must have been sat over half an hour pushing buttons, cursing Laura [no help at all] going through the manual, still no wiser which info out of 3 screen I've got if it makes a difference. Eventually managed to get UPDATE appear at the top left of the screen, gave it a press with no response, should it at least tell you its in progress ? Anyway, did as informed, got out and locked the car, now got crossed fingers

I have had a few minor issues with AD but nothing too bad if you pay for the "safe order", normally a few quid, then returns are free should you need to send stuff back, they just send you a link you print out the label, package it up and drop it off at the post office. Never had any issues in that regard. The only thing I have complained about it swapping some parts out for cheaper ones due to "availability" and not telling me and also not getting a refund for the difference but they were quick to resolve that issue as well. As noted above it is crucial to due relevant due diligence on parts and part numbers as I had an issue with the dig bone bush as there are two and I ordered the wrong one and didn't realise until it wouldn't fit in the subframe. I will note that experiences do seem to vary an awful lot.

Meant to add its sometimes tricky to see if a fuse is blown especially the micro ones with it in place. Easier if its removed. Alasdair

Breaker bar plus decent six point socket. Or maybe a passing scaffolder. Front pads more commonly have the wire in. If the light comes on, change the pads soonish (unless the wire has got chewed somehow and is shorting itself out).

Autodoc have many different businesses online (looking like UK based firms) but the same problems can arise. Look carefully at the delivery times and ask Ai where the business is based if in doubt. I always find out first the correct VW or Skoda part number and make sure I know exactly what the part looks like. This last bit can rule out mistakes which the sellers often make in their listings.

If you put a fuse in the wrong place there should be an empty socket with two terminals/contacts inside the socket for the fuse to connect to. Blank/unused fuse spaces tend to only have one or none at all. I had a look at the picture close up and cant see any with double contacts empty so maybe a fuse is in the right place and has blown. Did you pull fuses with battery connected as it can cause certain ones to blow. Also check the fuses in engine compartment near battery. Alasdair

When roadworks have closed a road Google Maps has always shown an alternative route. Google maps is constantly updated as apposed to built-in sat-nav having periodic updates.

While I am no fan of Autodoc, if you know exactly what you want (as opposed to asking Autodoc staff), parts are cheap and of good quality and I have used them several times in the past. The trouble being that "knowing exactly what you want" means down to an exact original manufacturer's part number, not just a Skoda part number. It costs quite a bit more research on internet. Autodoc do have an add on where you pay a bit more and can return unused parts within 6 months with them paying the return shipping, so if you have doubts best to use this service. For Skoda parts when I want to get exactly what is needed, I have been using a Czech shop skoda-parts.com for many years now. Consistently very good service and parts advice providing both original Skoda parts and good quality alternatives, and when they mess up even a tiny bit, they ship replacements without fuss. I steer clear of most UK parts shops nowadays, as sadly, the prices seem to be marked up 50%+. For example, a few months ago I have actually bought 2 Lesjofors suspension springs with delivery to the UK at skoda-parts.com for the price of an identical single Lesjofors spring at e.g. GSF and Eurocarparts. HTH

Also anyone got a VIN for the higher power engine ? As the after market radiators from the likes of GSF don't show a core sizing any different between the 150 and 190 models. So want to check on ETKA

Does lights left on audible warning work if you go to exit vehicle having left lights on? I'm thinking that maybe the car isn't aware of door opening; most likely because of a broken wire in door bellows.

Update : Breezy_Pete you could be onto something regarding the driver's door. This morning I got daughter to start car after pausing with only the ignition on for 10 to 15 seconds before turning the key to start. It started perfectly normally. Where can I see a circuit diagram for my 2011 Mk2 Fab, so I can check out the door lock and priming functions circuit and wiring?

@Maureenb This forum us very well supported, also compared to Facebook groups it’s much easier to search for information and knowledge.

Obviously it means that a brake pad (or two) has worn down somewhat. But which pads ? Front or Rear ? By how much ? (How much pad is left ?) Unfortunately, removing wheels to view pads is not currently an option. (The previous owner allowed a lazy tyre fitter to over-tighten several wheel nuts !) Thanks Octavia Estate vRS 2018

Send me a message with ur email address - I'll email u the 4B parameter file

Oh that's exactly what I needed to hear! All the relevant info in one post. Thankyou so very much. I can now go ahead with getting this done. Thanks again. Great idea joining this group! 😁

I saw you have also looked on the Facebook Karoq Group - where I also post - you have liked my reply. The 2.0 TDI Karoq is a good tow car. On the 2.0 TDI and 2.0 TSI (which I have) Towbar prep is just the wiring that runs from the front to the rear of the car. On the smaller engined Karoqs it can include additional cooling modifications which the larger Karoqs are built with in the factory. My Karoq did not have a towbar fitted when I bought it. I had the Skoda Factory fit towbar fitted by RichterSport in Bletchley (Milton Keynes) and they did an excellent job. The Skoda Factory fit towbar swivels down from under the bumper by pressing a switch in the boot, so dead easy to deploy and put away when not in use. The electrics all work perfectly -because it was coded using the correct Towing module. Connecting the trailer/caravan 7 or 13 pin plug into the towbar socket informs the Karoq's electrical systems so that the revised coding is used. This means Parking Sensors are disabled, Reversing camera alters its view to show the towball, Emergency braking at the rear is disabled when reversing, ABS and other system also adapted to the addition weight when towing. Avoid any installer who tells you a Bypass relay will be fine -it won't be. The old school wiring method of splicing into the cars lighting cables is potentially very risky - there was an example of this about 10 years ago on the VW Touran Forum, caused around £1500 of damage to various electrical modules. A 2024 Karoq can be correctly coded - you may have to search for a dealer who is able to do it, fortunately you don't have a 2025 or 2026 Karoq, because although they can still be coded its much harder finding a dealer who is willing to do it. Hope this helps.

Seems to be a "feature". there's a long discussion on the Karoq forum

I read the manual 30 months ago, to find out how enter post codes, when I didn't find it mentioned I (wrongly) assumed it wasn't possible. I had always used Post Codes on my standalone Garmin devices, and I recently learnt Skoda's Sat Nav uses Garmin technology. I use the built in Sat Nav all the time. @Sanqhar yes rural postcodes can cover a wide area. The post code I was using yesterday was actually on a road that was closed due to roadworks, my usual route was along the part that was physically impassable. The sat nav knew the road was closed, but was trying to route me to the start of the closed section and couldn't provide a distance or arrival time. Luckily I knew how get to a point where I could approach from the opposite direction but not how to navigate the country lanes at that point, fortunately the Sat Nav then took over and routed by directly to the destination.