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Is generating electricity and using it for transportation while being able to reduce burning fossil fuels like coal, oil or gas to generate it a mistake? Is planning for reducing the emissions of road vehicles and other transportation a mistake? Is letting people just put out as much pollution as they wish going to be continuing within Europe a sensible thing?

My advice would be to purchase an external SAT Nav like a TomTom unit, for example, or if you have a system with Apple CarPlay or Android Auto built-in, to use that and use Google Maps on your phone. Both of these approaches will also give live traffic data, which I think is provided courtesy of mobile phone tracking and system can see where the mobile phones that were moving before have just suddenly all slowed right or become stationary. The only real problem with these options is that if you have that little dot matrix screen on your instrument cluster giving you turn-by-turn information on the distance to the junction, etc., that functionality is not present.

The gfs Polo has had a bit of a major malfunction and is currently in limp mode...dash lit up like a Christmas tree. It now struggles to start and really badly chugs once it has actually started. There are a number of warnings that then pop up on the display: - Error: Stabilisation control (ESC) - Error: start-stop system - Error: Type Pressure Loss Indicator - Error: ParkPilot I'm totally guessing but maybe some kind of engine management system fault? Anyway, I'm trying to find a local garage to get it to but I can't find anywhere that can look at it short term. The soonest I've been quoted so far is 10 August! 😬 Just wondering if anyone can recommend a decent garage in South Manchester (the closer to Sale the better) that I can try? Thanks...

Many faults can cause LIMP mode... With 4 YETI's in the family 2012,2015,&2x2016. My bet's on the coil-pack (as long as you've tested the Ignition-Leads & Spark-Plugs are still good). Just be careful that you 've checked your engine model CBZ shown above is the older 105hp & the newer 110hp is usually CYV.

Here is a rather interesting theory on the rise of the EV throughout history, and it asks the question: are we making the correct decision now even, or will history prove that we are making things worse or better?

Yes they pulled the plug for good but we did get three more extra years by swapping over from Traffic Master to Inrix. It was useful like yesterday long queues at road works in a rural area. Inrix would have told you and marked up the area.

The end of the service was determined back in 2011 https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5a7b576a40f0b64646935832/Traffic_and_Travel_Report_1_.pdf

If only everyone was so proactive. If everyone checked tyre pressures or looked at treads or the inside wall of tyres before TPMS warnings or MOT failures.

Exactly!

i've got same here. Was working with old maps and INRIX, but no longer :-(

Doesnt take much to leak especially exhaust into coolant. Hopefully pressure test comes back good and a new gasket cures it. Alasdair

Look also for the carbon build up on the intake valve, it's a direct fuel injection engine a walnut blast could be nice

Could be an ABS wheel speed sensor! when problematic the car goes in to limp mode!

Hi all. I have a 2023 Octavia VRS Phev and have had the usual software bugs and gremlins over the years. Something I have only started to notice recently however is that I’ll often find that the car is unlocked, sometimes having been so all night. And yet at other times, when I want it to remain unlocked (while I am washing it for example) it will keep on locking itself, despite me repeatedly unlocking it again. I know all about the key not being kept too close to the car etc etc, and I know for fact that I am not forgetting to lock it when I walk away. I have been driving for more than 25 years now and locking a car is just something you do without even thinking about it. Does anyone else have this issue at all, or shall I just chalk it up to being another one of my cars quirks?

Head is off, no obvious cracks (which is goodish), will be dropping it off on Friday for pressure testing. I do think there are some areas where it could have been leaking combustion gasses, thats the spots on 2 and 3 there it its got dark soot, not 100% sure but more evidence.

Here's the diagram. The R5/J17 relay on the top. J362 is the ECU The "a" connection then continues to S4 fuse, which also powers injectors. Makes me think if someone connected it right to the 15 lead to bypass the immobiliser (not sure if it disconnects just the fuel pump relay or disables injector outputs, too on the 1.6)

...But that's the whole point of tyre rotation - reposition them before the wear pattern get too set.

But this is just a restart without reseting to factory settings...

My wife has a used 2020 model that has just started refusing to charge using our domestic 13A supply. Symptoms are; Flashes orange led for 30 secs then acts as if charge completed. Same result with a different cable that shows initially 0.4 A then 0 Car seems to be sending the wrong signals to charge cable. This is the early model with no Bluetooth so we cant connect an App. The only way I can get charge in now is to leave the Ignition on and press the Chsrge button on the centre console but that is not ideal as the cae then cant be locked! Any ideas what to check? The 12v battery went a bit low but has since been recharged and id ok.

What size and make of tyres are you planning to fit to the 17"-diameter wheels? The 18"-diameter wheels fitted as standard to the Fabia 130 carry 215/40 R18 tyres, whereas the tyres fitted when a Fabia Mk4 has 17"-diameter wheels are 215/45 R17. I wouldn't have thought that dropping the wheel diameter from 18" to 17" and fitting tyres that have the same width but a 45 'height' (rather than a 40 'height') would offer a worthwhile increase in pothole protection. For that you'd need to go to something like 215/60 R17, but that would look odd and there might be under-wheel-arch clearance problems with the 130 model.

Connector was removed at the aerial. 5v measured on the coax. DTC aeriial fault wtill coming up after clearing it. So not being caused by the sharkfin. I ha ve therefore put it all back together for now,

I also recall them from installing a towbar, but I can't remember if they were behind the bumper or behind the inner wheel arch liner, and I don't know where to start ;)

I can't hear the relay clicking, but there is a relay in the fuse box, and I tested it externally and it's good, so I've concluded that I either need to take it from the ECU cable or from under the steering wheel.

Thank You for answer, i'll do that

Maybe he connected legs of relay. Can you hear pump relay disconnecting after couple of seconds? Or maybe there is no relay just jumper.