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No, I shall do if that's what it takes, but I'd assumed that with the connector unplugged the light would be red?

Hi all. Im getting all the parts together to fit an vRS bumper on my regular Octavia. Came across an issue with front fog lights as the wireing is not a straight plug and play. Has anyone done it before? Is there a adapter on the market or any solution? Want to keep the car as close to stock as possible in terms of fog lights, cornering lights and stuff. Any information or recommendation is much appreciated.

thanks for the reply- though I was really after the specs I do get what you are saying, when I got the Leon, I really wanted the 300, But couldnt justify the cost. The compromise was that I would get the Leon mapped. I never did, as I never really felt the need. So, again, I have to decide on the compromise lol. But I am starting to like the idea of a newer, different model over a more powerful "existing" model

Website cleared my draft (?). Not retyping. Removed rear right pillar cover (Easy) Got 50 Ohm buzzer out complete with its connector and a short wire tail (Cut wires at clip) by gently pulling down back of headlining. Intentionally destroyed its plastic mountings because they fitted it forward facing on the rear roof beam! New OE replacement part going back behind rear right pillar cover with original connector and wire tail soldered and sleeved to wire pair behind pillar cover. Beware of Chinese buzzer clones, They may be 8 Ohms, too quiet and could damage controller buzzer driver.

Maybe there will be better efficiency if it does not get too cold soon and having a while of the Winter Formulation petrol. Maybe more so with the E5 depending what actual octane it comes with better than the min 97 or 99 ron minimum.

Pity... Although I had no difficulty finding drawings/pictures of this part, I couldn't find any photos of it installed in a Fabia Mk4. So I had no real 'feel' for how large the unit was and, if present, what I should expect to see it when looking through my Fabia's front-bumper air intake. Thinking laterally, I found a couple of videos relating to non-Skoda models and this link was helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvGYKACL1Kk This image shows the shutter-unit in place on a VW Jetta and it's plain that this is a substantial piece of kit that goes behind the front bumper and in front of the lower part of the radiator. If my Fabia Mk4 had the shutter-unit, this would be obvious when looking through my car's bumper's air intake, but (as I said earlier) there's absolutely nothing there to obstruct/control airflow to the lower part of my car's radiator that is fully visible. I'm quite glad that the shutter-unit is 'missing' from my car. Like the aero wheel trims, the aerodynamic gains will be quite small and (for me) the shutter feature is one more thing to go wrong and, if it does, a labour-intensive task to fix.

I'm concerned we might be joining the others in this thread with the same issue. No warning lights yet, but our 2021 Octavia hybrid has the tamper-seal intact but the battery coolant is sitting below the minimum ☹️ Is the only option to take it to a main dealer, or is there such thing as a VAG-hybrid specialist?

No, just in normal “off” position after a serious workout the day before.

It's now done 31K miles, and the plugs and coils were replaced in April this year during a full service at ~29K miles following a slight misfire, as was the air filter. The car is a 2019 2.0 TSI SE L. I don't know what happened Gaz, but the issue seems to have gone away for the time being, though it still seems a little thirstier than previously, but nothing that I couldn't put down to a change of driving style. Last tank mpg was about 44 overall, which is fairly typical. The 50 MPG figures are only when I'm on a long run or am deliberately driving for economy. I've just checked it (without having reset my BST clock yet. 🙄) and a motorway run I did today was just over 50mpg, which is normal for it. So I have no idea what it was up to for that brief drop in MPG, but obviously I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the feedback, gents. 👍

Were the wipers in the parked position? tom

Hi all, I have developed and tested a standalone CAN-BUS monitoring and logging prototype called CarKit1, primarily built and tested on the Superb II (PQ platform) (also compatible with MQB). Before I finalize the custom PCB design for a small production batch, I want to gauge interest here to see if anyone would want a unit like this for their car. Key Features (up to the "PRO" version): Direct CAN-BUS connection: Real-time data without OBD2 delays (4-wire hookup). Web Dashboard: Live vehicle telemetry displayed directly in your mobile browser via Wi-Fi. Extensive Telemetry: Reads a wide range of vehicle parameters (temperatures, central stat doors, locks, etc.). Automatic Trip Logbook: Automatically logs drives and trip statistics. Active Alarm (PRO version with LTE modem): Sends instant alerts via SMS or phone call if triggered. Wi-Fi & MQTT: Local Wi-Fi access as standard, with an optional paid MQTT server connection for remote access in the top version. Price estimate: Around €120 / £100 (2,990 CZK) for the top "PRO" version (a basic Lite Wi-Fi-only version would be cheaper). Let me know in the replies if you would be interested in a unit like this! Shrnutí CarKit1.pdf

I went hunting for dash rattles today. To remove centre speaker grill. Prize edge towards rear of the car up with trim tools in a few places along the edge. Then rotate this back edge upwards. To refit, pop up the rear edge of the vent cover a bit first so the grill can go back down vertically. Then vent cover going back down secures it in place. Pretty certain most of my rattle comes from where these two pieces fit together. I fitted some 1.5mm thick draught excluder to all flat surfaces and the back edge of the grill. Seems to have quietened down some of the rattle. With the vents you don’t need a special tool. The bottom edge pops out easy enough with a trim tool. Top edge took some more persuasion using a thin metal shim but once it was out I realised there was 4 sprung plastic grips. I think you could be strategic with a thin metal shim in these places to release it. Nothing in this area looked to be loose but I put some draught excluder on a couple of flat contact points anyway. Lastly popped the screen off with release tools and added some draught excluder next to where the clips hold it in and the top edge where it contacts the trim. Quick drive and it hasn’t eliminated all the 2k rpm rattle but certainly quietened it a bit.

I went hunting for dash rattles today. To remove centre speaker grill. Prize edge towards rear of the car up with trim tools in a few places along the edge. Then rotate this back edge upwards. To refit, pop up the rear edge of the vent cover a bit first so the grill can go back down vertically. Then vent cover going back down secures it in place. Pretty certain most of my rattle comes from where these two pieces fit together. I fitted some 1.5mm thick draught excluder to all flat surfaces and the back edge of the grill. Seems to have quietened down some of the rattle. With the vents you don’t need a special tool. The bottom edge pops out easy enough with a trim tool. Top edge took some more persuasion using a thin metal shim but once it was out I realised there was 4 sprung plastic grips. I think you could be strategic with a thin metal shim in these places to release it. Nothing in this area looked to be loose but I put some draught excluder on a couple of flat contact points anyway. Lastly popped the screen off with release tools and added some draught excluder next to where the clips hold it in and the top edge where it contacts the trim. Quick drive and it hasn’t eliminated all the 2k rpm rattle but certainly quietened it a bit.

Welcome. IMO if you want part time AWD and more power buy a car with that or you will always be disappointed that you went for the FWD and a remap. But you do need to get whatever that has been properly serviced. Also whatever you get might already have a remap. That you do want to know.

Apologies for the long post! I had a Seat Leon St 2.0tsi xcellence lux which was written off. I had my heart set on replacing it with a cupra leon ST 300 4drive, but they are out of my price range. so nbext I am looking at the seat leon cupra 300lux st 4drive. As far as i can tell it has everything my car has(still to be confirmed by dealer) but with more power ! £20,000 for 2020 model with 35,000m But being sensible I am also looking at the Skoda VRS estate. for £2000 ish more I can get a 22 reg with similar miles. Yes it has less power but that can easliy be fixed with a remap - even declared the insurance is cheaper than the cupra. No it doesnt have 4wd but from most reviews it doesnt sound that important. What does concern me (or rather I cant find definitive answers) are the specs Would you kind folks help me out here? I have a list of must haves, wants, and would be nice to haves. Ideally if you folks could advise me if the car comes with it as standard, it can be coded in via OBD11, it can be bought at the skoda shop that would be a huge help. Must haves Adaptive Cruise - it has this Auto lights - it has this Lane assist -it has this auto high beam on /off -? Wants Led lights with cornering -? Heated seats - it has this speed sign recognician -? travel assist - it has this Many many thanks in advance

Thanks! Yes, went from a single man to a husband and father, and possibly soon-to-be dog owner too 😂 Life has changed and that is definitely reflected in my cars! I was looking at the Octavia Estate but I got a good deal on the Superb. Delivered from Peterborough up to Scotland!

Done it again There is no deviation in specified and actual air pressure. Ive done MAf sensor test and it showed not OK Pressure on 3rd Cylinder is a bit strange for me but can someone give a comment please ? 770rpm 50bar 1500rpm 45bar 2000 rpm 45bar 2500rpm 50bar 0rpm 14bar Is that ok ?

Edit: Unable to edit the initial post but wanted to change the txt to the following: 'I want to update the maps, so have looked on the portal, and can see the ECE 2020/2021 update, is that the correct one? I can only see MIB2 Amundsen, MIB2 Columbus, MIB3 update manual info. The car currently has the (Bolero?) Amundsen MIB1 head unit, that has the cd player and two SD Card slots, linked to the 6” screen. (I’m considering my options upgrading the Infotainment system/ head unit too but will create another post).

Hi, new here, so here goes… I recently purchased a Škoda Octavia Mk3 vRS Combi, and mostly, all seemed ok. However, the dash display is now showing an intermittent 'No GPS Reception' notification, which causes the number of satellites to drop in/out, and although it's showing long/lat, sat nav is not working correctly. (Strangely, this began a couple days after having the car serviced). I've tried the infotainment system reset but to no avail. The maps aren’t up to date, and I initially thought the issue might be related to that. But from what I’ve read, it’s more likely the ’Shark Fin’ is faulty, as they can suffer from water ingress. I’m looking into buying a replacement, but wanted to ask for further diagnosis advice before purchasing. (any removal/installation pointers would also be appreciated) Also, I want to update the maps, and have looked on the portal, but can only see MIB2 update. So I’m unsure what the correct update is. The car currently has the Amundsen MIB1 head unit, that has the cd player and two SD Card slots, linked to the 6” screen. (I’m considering my options upgrading the (Bolero?) Infotainment system too but will create another post). The original Škoda SD card is in slot no’ 1. And from what I know, this will facilitate the update. But it states on the portal, ‘Delete all data on the SD card’. Is that correct? And I assume 'or format the card', is related to a non Škoda SD card? I appreciate this topic may have been covered before, but I’m not the most tech savvy, so any clarification or advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards p.s. the car does not have a USB input, only the 'media in' port which I believe needs an adapter to use?

Did this P33400P update fix the issue?

Hi - I'm looking at selling my 18 plate VRS estate ( diesel) 185BHP which gives me regular 45 - 52 mpg (depending on journey type). I'm currently looking at some 24/25 plate Mk 4's ( petrol obviously ) at 240/260 BHP and was wondering what the real world MPG figures might be compared to the Skoda figure of 40. I've always found most manufacturer figures are always very optimistic to say the least. Thanks - Ian.

Did you drive the car with revs going above 1500 while the connector was unplugged?

Hello, I tried this and with the wire removed there is still no light! I replaced the oil switch anyway, as this is quite a cheap attempt at a repair, and there is no difference. Also noticed that the old one, when I took it out, has no oil on it, nor could I find any oil in the recess it screws into. Picture below. So, the oil way to the switch is blocked? And someone (previous owner) has disabled the red light, so that it doesn't constantly display? Apart from this, the engine is working fine. Not sure where I go from here!

The Golf's now just behind the Volvo - I missed its 46K last week on the way up to Norwich 🙄: Gaz

Have you any photos please?