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Mistakes happen everywhere. What really matters is how they deal with them. If contacting support doesn’t get you anywhere, I’d try sending a formal complaint through their official channels, with your order number and a clear explanation of what went wrong.

But the Dealership has never touched the DSG while servicing, or have they? Did they con you into having it done? Hopefully not the MCU, but I fear it will be and not just the shifter.

Hi everyone, I'd like to ask for some advice regarding an engine noise on my Škoda Octavia III RS Facelift with the 2.0 TSI CHHA engine producing 169 kW. Vehicle details: Model: Škoda Octavia III RS Facelift Engine: 2.0 TSI CHHA, 169 kW Gearbox: 6-speed DSG DQ250 Current mileage: approximately 70,000 km (43,500 miles) Engine: completely stock, no ECU remap or software modifications Description of the issue: There is a noticeable ticking/rattling noise coming from the engine at idle. As soon as I slightly increase the engine RPM, the noise disappears or becomes inaudible. It may return when the engine drops back to idle. The noise is intermittent. Sometimes the engine idles relatively quietly, while at other times the rattling is quite noticeable. I've been noticing this noise since approximately 30,000 km (18,600 miles). It is therefore not something that has only started recently. I've also noticed a similar noise on other Octavia III RS models with the 2.0 TSI 169 kW engine, but it was nowhere near as loud or noticeable as it is on my car. On mine, the rattling is considerably more pronounced. I've already ruled out the wastegate actuator, as this is not the source of the noise. I'm attaching a recording of the engine idling. Would anyone be able to identify what might be causing this noise based on the recording? Has anyone experienced anything similar with the CHHA engine? Any advice or personal experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! 20250417_154942.wmv

Cheers... I thought that was just initial info with more to come but maybe that's it??

No it is not.

Is the car an ex-response car? Ambulance, Police, Fire, Paramedic ...

I have for sale an 18" space saving spare wheel and fitting kit for a 2025 Mk. 4 Superb L & K 1.5TSI DSG Hybrid. It was bought new along with the car. Offers around the £100 mark. Collection only. It has never been used. It was bought specifically for the car mentioned and I can offer no guarantee that it will fit other Skoda models. I do know for fact that this will NOT fit an Octavia Sportline.

See Occyvrs's 2nd post on page 1, with info from internal VW comms:

Have you seen that formally confirmed yet... I've seen it mentioned in reports but nothing definitive and I'd find it strange if that were the case given LHD and RHD are produced on the same line and likely use the same bolts

Unaware of this thread, in May 2025 I started a thread in the Karoq sub-forum. I have now resurrected that thread as I am again having issues with Send Route and so is another forum member.

Hi guys, When adjusting my blower motor speed I only have 2 out of the 3 blower speeds, when I turn the dial what I get is at: - 0, the blowers off 1, what seems to be speed 2 2, speed 2 3, speed 3 So it’s not drastic but I would like to have speed 1 just blowing lightly. Do I need to replace a resistor (is there one?) if so where is it and which one if not is it a motor or switch issue? Regards Rob

Does any one know if it is possible to replace the transponder in a 2025 key fob. I have 2 Skoda Superb key fobs from a 2025 model. Is it possible to fit a new transponder to these to enable all functions of a key fob for s Skoda Octavia Sportline 2026 model?

It’s a DQ200 7 speed dry clutch. Not under warranty. Always dealer serviced, last done on October 1. It’s only done 21000 miles.

Hi So, I have a customer with two pickups. One has towbar and he wants to mount towbar on the other as well. How ever - he does NOT want to remove the rear muffler. The towbar I can find does not look like the one thats mounted on his other pickup. It looks like this: Right side attachment to van: Left side attachment to van:

Cheers Pete will give it another go tomorrow once hand and back have recovered I hope. Seem to be getting a little bit more on each attempt or it could be my imagination. Found a console bracket from energised customs for around £40 but not sure of quality. Might try and crack console bolts to chassis to see. If they are easy I will get the grinder out and cut the old bolt bush . The bolt thats come out 1/4 way looks shiny and isnt seized in buh so I can only assume its alloy oxide as you pointed out. Will clean up the oil slick under car due to the amount of penetrating mixtures and and give my map gas torch a go with my trusty big CO2 extinguisher at hand. Alloy and steel should never be used together on cars!! Managed to get a bit of hose into open threaded hole. raised it up and filled with oil/white spirit to soak in overnight. Alasdair

Shows as a 2018 1.5 TSI ACT in profile. So DQ200. & Karoq,s never got the DQ250 6 speed, they got DQ381 7 speed wets.

( 2013 ) Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI SCOUT with 6-speed manual transmission. My friend's car suddenly had a major electrical fault. Suddenly—and without any prior issues—there is no power to the entire rear section of the car, along with a few other likely related faults. No tail lights. No brake lights. No turn signals. No reverse lights. No license plate light. The tailgate lock solenoid remains in the closed position. The engine doesn't stop when the key is turned to the OFF position, instead it keeps running perfectly. If the key is removed from the OFF position, the entire dashboard starts flashing frantically yet the engine keeps running—though now very, very poorly and unevenly.. I’ve attached a VCDS fault code scan I performed. ...Can anyone draw any conclusions from it ? 🤔 Has anyone experienced a similar electrical fault on an Octavia-II ? 🤔 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - EDIT 🤔 For some reason unknown to me, I cannot upload the VCDS fault code reading 🤔

^^^One less recall or service campaign that might concern those with VW Group vehicles with the steering wheel on the correct side. Just those with the wheel on the wrong side to see if their vehicle is part of the Global Recall.

Ive just replied to your post on the Facebook Group. Now I see it a dry clutch DQ20, so my comment about DQ250 is no applicable, if you have TSR and ACC is this a 2024 or later car - in which case take it to the dealer, its still under warranty, still has roadside assistance.

Left hand drives only are subject to the recall.

Sorry I don't have any pictures of the wires. I used second hand headlight connectors which came with a short length of wiring attached. The extra wiring was needed to extend the harness as without it there is not enough length to install the headlight as the socket on the headlight unit is in a slightly different postion.

Car drove as normal in drive all evening. Parked for 2 hours, went to drive home but car would not select D. Only way to get drive was to pull back into drive and then over into M. Car drove normally on paddle changing down automatically. Minus paddle not working at all. Selector pulls back to N but unless you immediately shift left to M it just springs back to normal. No fault codes recorded. Any ideas please.

Thank you Simon! Do you have a pic of those wire ? I need to see in which order they need to be pinned into the 10 pin connectors.

Don't think anything will free it now as there'll be loads of aluminium oxide and aluminium metal clogging up the threads, and no way to remove. Hope I'm wrong. The bolts that hold the console on go into steel of chassis, rather than alloy, so won't suffer the same galling. If you do try to shear the front console bolt that's stuck, I did it with long, multiple extensions on a good 6-point 18mm socket, long enough to fit a 2' breaker bar to in front of the car, then applied a really surprising amount of force persistently before the bolt broke. Sweaty job.