All Activity

Even odder post. Please explain how a TomTom SatNav integrates with the Karoq's ACC?

Yes nothing out of the ordinary in fact very little mikeage which I guess I should have expected to be the case. Don't think any business would be that stupid, and as I said it was crossed wires with my mum making stuff up by not checking the car odo and miss reading something on the work invoice.

Quite like the colour, what is that called ?

Have you now been able to verify the mileage the garage actually ran up the week they had it ?

Connectivity issues are still there. Not always it is the car to blame, and when it is, pulling the fuse helps. But on Skoda's side it is still bad. The rest should be ok if car was taken care of.

I do like that colour. One of my neighbours has it.

Never heard of TomTom Sat Navs? 🙄

As it doesnt change pitch or frequency re speed etc and only when car is moving I cant see it being drive system/engine related. It may be a plastic undershield etc thats slightly loose or perhaps the brake splash guard is too close to disc and is vibrating. Check the heat shields on exhaust as well. Also next time it happens turn AC off in case its related. Alasdair

Wow good for you. I am sure you will be an asset to this community with your insights and enthusiasm (Yes good looker it is !)

These are the 2 codes which are causing the engine light & what you should concentrate on: P06DA00 Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit/Open static P064C00 Glow Plug Control Module static Checking the battery is cheap and simple but usually you have lots of other warnings & messages on the display with a bad battery (ACC, park assist, Tyre monitor, etc not available after starting). Next I'd check the fuses for both modules (or perhaps they have a shared fuse) to make sure it's not just one of them blown. Otherwise I'd suspect something electrical as they are not really related. When you charge the car at home, do you connect the ground off the charger to the charging point behind the battery (not into the terminal of the battery) ? Gabbo

Odd post as this is nothing to do with navigation...

That's why I still use TomTom.....😄

Nothing much to report by way of a fix. Skoda Connect, who claimed to have the magic fix have now stopped responding to me. I reported the fix had failed the day I received the vehicle back. That was three weeks ago & since then - nothing. Skoda UK have admitted to having no technical knowledge. But they now are very keen for me to book further diagnostics at my expense. They seem to be claiming that despite the fault & fix being diagnosed by Skoda Connect, I now have to pay the dealer for further diags. The matter is further clouded by receiving conflicting emails from four different individuals at Skoda UK, all claiming to be "managers". I get the impression they now want me to cover the cost of the failed fix! I've asked for the matter to be escalated, but it's all leaving a very sour taste. However this pans out, I won't be buying anything else from VAG.

I can't remember how it appeared in Eco mode. I think it was an icon. But as others have said, it will appear if the centre section of the virtual cockpit is set to display fuel consumption. It literally says "2 cylinder mode" in text.

As far as I am aware there's no change schedule for it, most people who have done work on one day it's actually a long life belt compared to Ford or PSA

I do not know what software it is on, but thats the first thing i am checking. I've lurked around the forum and seen that it is possible to update it yourself, but i hope i wont have to, pretty scared of ruining something. My plans are soon after getting it, going to an authorized skoda service and doing a overall check. Really hope everything will be okay, since i absolutely love how the car looks.

Welcome to the forum. What was the mileage when you bought the 22 Karoq ?

Hi, im in Lithuania, but the car is from Czechia. As far as i know it was a leased car for a bank as a company car. It has 80k km. Before buying it had DEKRA check, but no specific information regarding DSG or VAQ servicing. It does have a NHCAR sticker on the back and on the number plate frame and NHCAR as i've checked is an authorized skoda dealer and service provider in Prague so my hopes are that this car was serviced properly. Nothing more specific about servicing apart that it has electronic service history.

Yes it's not low millage car. I am aware of that but then I bought it because of good service history. There are things that are not in e service book like original VW shocks that are replaced in 2023. Bdw I have managed to change ( by my self ) Front Air distribution flap servo motor without removing everything around steering wheel. Bit extender and endoscope camera taped on it 😉 If someone have an advice.. Are there some things that I can check with vcds and plan to replace on DSG gearbox ? Clutch wear or something like that. Fluid is changed every 60kkm ( I am planning to change it early maybe )

I think i just need to remove gloebox and side trim and will give me a good look at the matrix pipes etc, possibly get valeo or denso with part number maybe

He failed. Was he watching Robocop when he designed it? 6000 SUX

Agree with Warrior. At this point it doesn’t seem clear whether you’ve spun a shell and are about to explode a big end and kill your crank, or if you have a failing lesser component, or maybe a blocked oil pick up. Certainly damage has been done, but if your bottom end is sound, I’d say all is not yet lost - unless you know otherwise. If I were a car dismantler, I’d also think £1400 was a good risk, possibly a good flip if it’s a non major repair. Gaz PS: Just having a nose around, and it looks like you can pick up a warranted second hand complete EA888 for between £1,500 and £2,000.

As that is probably not the original battery, it is possible that it was not correctly adapted (coded) when it was fitted (possibly 2022?) It's quite possible that it is failing - failing battery can cause multiple issues even though it still appears to start the engine normally. I'd strongly suggest having the battery properly tested first.

Hello, I am writing to urgently request your specialized engineering guidance regarding a highly unusual and critically severe mechanical seizure on a 2009 Škoda Fabia Combi Mk2 (1.6L Gasoline BTS Engine, 6-Speed Automatic Tiptronic Transmission - Aisin 09G). • Component in Question: Right-Side (Long) Inner CV Joint Cup (Transmission Side) The Problem: While attempting to replace the right front drive shaft, the inner CV joint separated, leaving the inner CV joint cup (stub axle portion) completely seized inside the differential housing. The internal circlip (snap ring) appears to have experienced a severe mechanical binding/jamming or deformation inside the differential splines, creating a total mechanical lock. Chronology of Failed Removal Attempts: We have strictly followed all standard automotive repair protocols, followed by heavy-duty industrial extraction methods, but the cup remains completely immovable. The following attempts have been made: 1. Standard & Specialized Pry Bars: We used dual pry bars and dedicated CV axle popper forks to apply balanced, opposing outward leverage. The cup did not budge. 2. Heavy-Duty Slide Hammer & Vice Grips: A professional slide hammer was securely locked onto the cup's ridge. Repeated high-impact blows failed to release the circlip. 3. Opposite Side Punching (Attempted): We completely removed the left-side (short) healthy axle to drive the seized cup out from the inside. However, this specific differential design features a center pin/plug (blind differential) preventing a straight punch from passing through to the back of the right cup. 4. Drilling & Pin Insertion: We successfully drilled two opposing holes through the heavy metal walls of the cup, inserted a thick, high-tensile steel bolt through it, and attached heavy-duty locking pliers linked to a slide hammer. The impact shattered the pliers, but the cup did not move. 5. Arc/CO2 Welding & Industrial Chain Pulling: We welded a massive high-tensile bolt directly into the inner cavity of the cup to achieve structural integration. We hooked it to an industrial iron chain and applied extreme hydraulic/mechanical pulling force. The force was so immense that the heavy-duty iron chain snapped completely, yet the CV cup did not move even a millimeter. Current Dilemma: The inner CV cup and the differential splines are now acting as a single, permanently welded mechanical unit due to the internal circlip jam. We have stopped applying further external pulling force to prevent cracking the aluminum transmission casing or destroying the internal differential bearings. We also want to avoid dropping the entire transmission if an on-car engineering solution exists. Given your deep manufacturing and engineering expertise with the Aisin 09G / VAG differential assembly, could you please provide us with: 1. The official factory service protocol for a totally seized internal circlip on this specific transmission. 2. Any specialized VAG dealer tool designed for this exact type of catastrophic seizure. 3. Your technical recommendation on whether splitting the cup longitudinally (on-car) is safe, or if dropping the gearbox is now mandatory to dismantle the differential. Thank you for your prompt attention to this highly challenging technical issue. I look forward to your expert guidance.

Me and my wife loved our 2011 Skoda Karoq estate. So when we decided to replace it with an SUV in 2023 it was natural for us to buy a Skoda SUV. We bought a 2022 Karoq 1.5 SE Technology. We have always loved the car, but when the clutch went without warning at around 30,000 miles, we were shocked and disappointed. Although my wife (whose main car it is) admits to riding on the clutch at times, she has not changed her driving style over the years. We sold the Octavia at 118,000 miles with no sign of a clutch problem.