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It’s in the infotainment system. From memory, go to Vehicle - Exterior - Headlights; there should be an option to set the range of the headlights (1 (lowest)- 5 (highest), I think); I set it at the lowest. If you do this with the headlights on, facing a wall, you should see the beam lower or rise depending on the setting you choose.

Hi everyone, I’m looking into the service history of a Superb Mk3 iV (1.4 TSI PHEV) and noticed something interesting regarding the engine oil change intervals. From factory/initial handover, these PHEVs often seem to come on a fixed 15,000 km / 1-year regime (QI4/QI6 depending on market). However, looking at digital service prints (Elsa/Digital Service Schedule) for several ex-lease cars from Germany, I see intervals stretching to ~30,000–33,000 km between oil changes (e.g. 1st service at ~14k–15k km, but subsequent oil changes at ~47k, ~68k, or even ~103k km). A few questions for fellow iV owners: Did your dealer keep your Superb iV strictly on a Fixed 15,000 km / 1-year schedule, or did they switch/code it to Variable / LongLife (up to 30,000 km / 2 years) using VW 508.00 (0W-20) / VW 504.00? Is the variable regime actually permitted by Škoda guidelines for the 1.4 TSI EA211 hybrid, considering the cold starts and rapid transitions to high load? For those who bought cars with 30k km intervals in the digital records, have you switched back to 15k km / 1-year fixed intervals for peace of mind? Would love to hear your experiences and thoughts on whether running 30k km oil intervals on the PHEV powertrain is common practice in fleet/lease management or an oversight by dealerships. Thanks in advance!

How did you lower the beam height?

It may have been removed or broken at some point. On my sons it narrows the pipe so only unleaded nozzles fit. Not sure if you can get a replacement or if its a new filler neck/tank? Alasdair

Supposed to be 20Amp, so probably worth changing down when you can.

Thanks, had found it, seems nothing in 40, 39 yes but not 40. Added a 30Amp into 40 and we are back in business again

Same fuse as front one, fuse 40.

I'll let you know when I get the car back from the garage, but it seems not.

I've recently had a water pump & timing belt change. Had to do a trip about 400 miles -- only just been able to check the workmanship! They broke the old sensor (which they'd told me about) -- nothing a bit of araldite couldn't fix, but -- had to have a new one. Problem is they seem to have fitted a new tube as well, which I don't think is "up to spec". It's thin rubber, very flexible, so much so that it's folded into a 90 degree bend (which probably still transmits the pressure, but isn't ideal) and also split open at the connector -- which probably doesn't transmit the pressure. In the light of the risk of melting when it's not air-tight -- I'll not be driving it like this! Useful to know only one connection is normal -- I was definitely sceptical about seeing two connectors on the new sensor. (photo to follow ...)

Just be careful with the subframe alignment kit. Everything is designed to move a little bit, so that in a low-speed smash, a lot of the important stuff is protected. By sticking in those collars, you’re reducing any flex or wiggle room that oval holes and the like introduce, transferring the full energy of an accident to the subframe and more critical components. You’ll also find that, unless the car is brand new and has never been into a pothole, you will need the adjustment to get the car aligned! My car has never been in any sort of incident beyond a wheel kerbing, but without replacing half the steering and suspension system, it wouldn’t align properly were the subframe to be locked in place.

You can get stick on battery projector ones with this logo, or Skoda / Superb logo ones that fit in the standard light fitting. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005553670345.html? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009118625645.html

Sounds like they’ve fiddled with all your aftermarket bits which is a bit naughty. Does the camera and the usb now work?

Yes, they were replaced one-for-one. They aren't available anymore. Back then, there was a group buy in Germany for this type of logo.

Yeah it still sticks to the road as well as it ever has, just the roll in the body from side to side that seems to be spoiling it.

I will already add the fact I have a "yellow" DRL which i need to fix and its not related to the ballast as I have replaced them already!

So, I find myself in a place where a car I bought was not going to be a project car but there are things that I want to do that make it a bit like a project car. I already have a thread on my engine woes, now they seem to be fixed I will have some pennies to spend on my "not a project" project car. There are some things that I have already done that I have not specifically documented, but I enjoy keeping track of things I do to cars, so here I am. I do most of my own work with help from a friend in his "shed". Already done things are, Head Gasket - What a nightmare Charge air cooler EGR Cooler All associated HG seals and gaskets New Turbo Lowered on Eibach Sportsline Springs Solid Dogbone insert Other engine mounts replaced with new Wheels changed - This was a bit of a random one, the Audi wheels came up in mint condition and were a lot cheaper than getting mine refurbed. Wheels spacers added Rear Windows Tinted Had the bootlid and bumper repaired and repainted as someone had fitted a number plate with wood screws and the bumper had a couple of knocks Fitted the larger and newer headunit Bought the cover to block off the intake to get more air into the air box Removed the snow filter in the airbox cut out the additional holes on the intake pipe to give more air into the airbox. Added a Reiger splitter that I got for £15! Cambelt, water pump and aux belt all replaced Oil pump belt replaced DSG gearbox serviced New discs and pads all round Car is also stage 1 and has had a DSG remaps as well So whats in plan, well as this isnt a project not much.... Suspension refresh - all bushes and links will be replaced / upgraded and new shocks. Chassis stiffening parts High flow filter Turbo baffle replacement TIP replacement Wheel studs Need to detail it at some point been a bit lazy with it as the engines been broken. Sure I will add more to the not a project list as I get on with it!

Car is finally sorted, all new parts fitted now, new centre arm rest, new rear vents, new a pillar covers. Only thing they have broken is the USB in the centre rest, completely removed the wires from the step down unit! Then the unit nor the cig USB unit was working but found that the fuse wasn't there!! Also the wiring and harness for rear camera has been put elsewhere, I think they have had fun haha

Decoding Volkswagen Coolant Families: From G12 to G13Volkswagen has evolved its coolants over the decades. Here’s the lineup every owner needs to know. Classic and Reliable: G12 CoolantThe original long-life red/pink coolant (OAT technology). Nitrate-free, phosphate-free, and silicate-free, G12 was used by the auto manufacturer from the late ’90s to mid-2000s. G12 (original red) G12+ (improved red/pink) G12++ (even longer life) G12 EVO (latest violet-ready evolution) Ideal for the MK4 Golf, the Beetle, and the early Passat. The Modern Eco-Warrior: G13 CoolantIntroduced around 2008, G13 swaps some glycol for glycerin (a veggie-derived byproduct), making it more environmentally friendly while still delivering 150,000-mile protection. Violet or purple color Fully compatible when mixing with G12+, G12++, or G12 EVO Slightly different corrosion package, even better for newer aluminum blocks Recommended for every Volkswagen from model year 2008 onward (Atlas, Tiguan, newer Golf/Jetta, etc.). The Universal Champions: G12+, G12++, and G12 EVOThese are the “safe for almost anything” options. Silicate-free, backward-compatible with old G11/G12, and forward-compatible with G13. Use them to top off almost any Volkswagen vehicle without drama. Built to add long-term rust, frost, and overheating protection. REAL-WORLD EXAMPLE: A correctly matched G12++ or G13 mix prevents radiator rust, resists freeze damage in winter, and helps the cooling system shed excess heat. Source/Copyright: Volkswagen USA That Bright Coolant Warning Light? Don’t Ignore It!When the red thermometer or “coolant low” icon lights up on your dashboard, pull over safely, shut off the engine, and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before popping the hood. Hot, pressurised coolant can cause severe burns. Mixing Coolants and Smart Upgrade TipsYes, G13 plays nicely with G12+, G12++, and G12 EVO in a pinch, but always top off with the exact specification for best results. The following color guide is helpful but isn’t foolproof: G11 – blue (ancient, avoid) G12/G12+ – red or pink G12++/G13 – violet/purple Never gamble with off-brand “fits all” coolants; they often contain silicates or phosphates that attack Volkswagen seals and sensors. Stick to genuine Volkswagen G13, G12++, or G12 EVO.

I have these on my list for my "not a project" car after I have done the bushes and ARBs, had similar on other cars and do seem, to work well.

RacingLine also have some upgrade parts if you still want more stiffness (ooo, err) after doing the 'bushes': https://www.racingline.com/mqb-underbody-brace https://www.racingline.com/mqb-subframe-brace

I don't suppose anyone knows the fuse location/number for the rear cig lighter? Car back from Skoda today with only thing not working or being resolved is my rear USB unit which is wired into the Cig lighter, also the USB in the arm isn't working which takes a feed from this. I have found this when looking at the wires, so will explain one thing, shocking that a main dealer does this! But wanting to prove a fuse is the issue due to them doing this, before I start to have a go at them

This update is not about progress on my Caddy, but instead is about an event I attended. I was not there in the Caddy so the relevance to this thread may seem tenuous, but please bear with me. Earlier this month I attended the Retro-Rides Gathering at Prescott Hillclimb. I was there in my SEAT Ibiza, and was lucky enough to be able to take it up the hill. Wandering around the retro parking I saw these: I would have really liked to have spoken to the owner of this one. The wheels appear to be the same Renault 16” steels which I have on my Caddy, and the paint colour is remarkably similar. I love the facelift front end too. This last one is not my photo, so if the person who took it recognises it and objects then please get in touch and I will remove it. The point I wanted to make is that when I bought my Caddy these Felicia-based pick-ups were mostly unloved, and you never saw them at events. This is clearly changing. There are now increasing numbers of Felica and mk2 Caddy pick-ups which have obviously had money and effort spent on them. I think this is great news, and if anyone reading this is struggling for motivation on their own project, I hope this helps.

Stabilus 301171 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Hatchback without rear wiper) 3V5827550D 3V5827550E 3V5827550H 3V5827550J Extension Force 660N Length 546mm Stroke 169mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9485272 Stabilus 301410 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Hatchback with rear wiper) 3V5827550 3V5827550A 3V5827550B 3V5827550C 3V5827550F 3V5827550G Extention Force 700N Length 546mm Stroke 169mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9487445 Stabilus 299976 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Estate) 3V9827550 3V9827550A 3V9827550B 3V9827550C 3V9827550E Extension Force 600N Length 598mm Stroke 191mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9445724

There are a couple of results from the latest trip to the body shop which I neglected to draw attention to in the last update, one of which was a conscious choice while the other was unexpected. I have never liked how the ‘hockey stick’ trims extend across the B-pillar. When I bought this Caddy these trims had been unceremoniously curtailed at their front ends, which caused some problems with water ingress to the load area, but was one of the previous owner’s visual mods which I did not hate. Replacing these trims was an opportunity to do a better job along the same lines, and I had Martlet Autos cut and chamfer the front edges to follow the line of the cab back. In my opinion it looks like they are supposed to be like that, which is a positive sign. The unintended outcome from the work to the rear spring top seats is that the rear ride height is now much higher. I need to get the back end up in the air again to make sure that the springs are seated correctly (there are no untoward noises to suggest otherwise), and if they are then I need to look again at lowering springs. I still have the springs I bought when I rebuilt the rear suspension, so it will be a little effort no cost job to swap them over.