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Not sure if its been done before. Cars on around 80k but large bush pretty soft and looks like plastic part not sitting flush with bracket and the bump on inside of bush is furthest away from engine not nearest. Reckon I will have to destroy it to get swing arm out. Definitly Recomend 50/50 acetone/hydraulic fluid seems to reach parts others fail to. New bolt threads in ok and feels secure and not loose but will try and clean up threads a bit before fitting. New bolt is completely threaded but old bolt only partly but same length 100mm. Did find the old bolt had a very slight bend in it which wouldnt have helped trying to remove. Reckon its the hardest bolt I have come accross to remove in 40 years. Might seal the threaded hole with silicone once fitted to stop salt etc getting in. Not sure if a smear of copper grease is a good idea with a bit of thread lock on end for good measure. Wish me luck for passenger side!! Alasdair

Remove it and post the picture of label from upper housing

Ive done gearboxes on the floor before but its a right PITA, thats on the floor of my mates barn, which is set up as a workshop with lifts (sadly none were free at the time). Its not that its a really challenging job its more that gearboxes are just a terrible shape and weight to man handle, took me and two friends to get mine back in and Im pretty sure I was nearly crushed to death by it about 4 times. @Alasdair1 has covered the other main points, id just do the master cylinder for what they cost its not worth not doing it, some clutch kits do come with them included.

Hi all! been lurking a little while & thought it about time I introduced the pair of us!😉 My Yeti is 2013 2.0 140 DSG 4x4 L&K with 106k miles, after buying it I had the cam belt done, Haldex & DSG serviced by a VAG Indy, &the infotainment system (RNS-510 Dab) is off being repaired (constantly restarting). It's a fabulous car to drive, & hopefully will be more reliable than my Jag xf!!😆 I'm 64, & do a lot of my own work on my cars, using Indys when the work is above my pay grade! Just outside Cambridge UK I'll leave it there! See you in the forums!! Regards Skippy

Oh well done. Very poor design in lots of ways. When I did mine recently, I found that the driver's side long bolt had been replaced by a much shorter one (65mm instead of 100mm), and that was previously done by a garage. Can only have had a few mm engagement with the thread in the console. ☹️

Had a 1.9tdi pd octavia and exellent car and engine. Even at 50k as the car is 22 years old so definitly due a belt change. Did mine myself and fairly straight forward plus water pump change at same time. Mine was 1.9tdi BXE. Not sure on your engine but mine had no DPF so no problems. Alasdair

Doubt it would be easy on drive. Main problem will be getting car high enough to get Gbox out in the first place plus cant see the Gbox being much less than 60kg. Did my sons Fabia using a beam that sits accross engine bay and supports engine and gbox independently. I couldnt get car high enough to get Gbox out but managed to swing it out of the way enough to get to clutch etc. £1200 is probably about right. £400-600 for clutch and dmf and aprox 5-6hours labour as long as everything goes to plan. Reckon its a garage lift job unless you have access to a inspection pit. Factor in a new clutch slave cylinder at the same time. Alasdair

Hi I have 2014 superb and the head unit is stuck in software download ! It won’t turn off or on what is this and how It be resolved ! Any info would would be appreciated thanks

ESim After entering my pin number incorrectly 3 times I lost access to my primary user account. I eventually managed to get back in as primary user by changing the email address and password to the same on the log in on the car, on the app and on the Skoda digital I’d website. I created a new email address and password for these 3 log ins. This email address I intended to use only for the car. Everything worked perfectly for a couple of weeks until 2 days ago when Google blocked that email address citing unusual activity. After appeal I have managed to get the email address unblocked.. According to AI Google doesn’t like the fact that I have the setting for data ticked as the esim. I don’t pay a subscription to Cubic. I could untick the box and use my mobile but looking at my data usage on my phone it is very low, I have Android auto on all the time and the latest update 0334 download must have come via the esim because it is certainly not on my phones data record. Over air Map updates are around 30. GB so I would prefer to leave the esim switched on. Has anyone else had the problem of Google blocking their email address and if so how did they resolve it. I have tried all the suggestions given by AI without success. According to AL“When you start the car and it attempts to authenticate your Škoda ID (the primary user account), the vehicle uses its built-in eSIM (connected via Vodafone/Cubic Telecom in Europe/UK). Because the car's data is routed through a centralized regional telecom hub rather than a local mast, your email security provider sees the login coming from an entirely different region, triggering the "unusual activity" flag on your mobile phone.”

Sounds like a nice trip. Yes German motorway services are serious price gougers... Always pays to look for an Autohof or a local station near a motorway exit. Will cost you less than 5 minutes in time. For example look below:

Hi all, I'd like to update my Karoq's MIB2 High to the final SKG13 release. Could anyone who has copy of MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 (MU 1440) share it, or confirm it's the right target for my unit? Car: Skoda Karoq 2018, UK System info: - SW train version: MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4514_1 (1163) - SW MU version: 1163 - Part number: 565035021B - Hardware: H54 Unit is unmodified (no GEM, no toolbox, no patches). Main reason: improving SmartLink/CarPlay stability with an iPhone 18 Pro. If anyone can share a link via PM, that would be much appreciated. Happy to report back once done. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, i want to connect pioneer TS-WX140DA to the oem multimedia (skoda octqvia mk3) , is there any harnesses adapter for it , and to replace the rca without cutting and destroy it . Any help please ??

I checked on skoda web for recall, for my car vin it is not needed. In fact, only cars that have alluminium subframe are involved. Mine have pressed steel subframe, not need to change bolts.

I likewise am experiencing this problem. My Skoda Octavia 2024 1.5 TSI (manual gearbox) cuts out between gears at low rev. The car was bought new in 2026, but was pre-registered at the dealership at delivery in 2024. I am the first owner to use it and the problem has persisted from new. I have reported it to Skoda customer service as a manufacturing fault that represents a safety issue, requesting a reference number from them. I will then report it to the DVSA. Google Gemini tells me that registering the issue with the DVSA will not appear in any records for the vehicle (i.e. it won't dissuade any subsequent purchaser). For better or worse, this at least means those suffering from this safety defect should not feel wary of registering it. If an actual recall is triggered, then it shows against all vehicles of that make and model until the individual vehicle is brought to the garage in response to the recall, at which point the recall alert is wiped from the vehicle's record.

Hey Pete quick update. Managed to get the bolt out. Mixed 50/50 acetone/hydraulic32 and put tube in open threaded hole with end raised filled with mix and left to soak. Kept topping up and loosening tightening and eventually got it out. A tiny little bit of alloy in one thread on bolt but threads in alloy look pretty good. Next step is to get swing arm out. Plus you were right about raising engine. What a daft design. All they had to do was put a dent in sump? Just got to do the passenger side!! Alasdair

@pab567 Just an update on the retrofit, absolutely right, it did fit! A small trim of the display connector got it to go in, now I just need the trim. Thanks for the help guys :)

Managed to get the first in the path on earlier today, looks good so far. Will do the other 2 later.

& maybe £150 plus to diagnose and not omit this if you agreed to have them do the job. Some like Park Skoda Hamilton even farm the work out to an independent because they employ incompetents. Not even all the gear but certainly no idea.

That does sound like an issue with the PCV. The differences are subtle but the membranes are different, the OEM one is a 2 piece the aftermarket is a one piece and just doesnt feel very "nice" hard to explain. Also the circumference of the plastic PCV "cap" differs hence why I cannot use the PCV valve I bought as its designed for an OEM rocker. I am seeing some residue and have high oil consumption so I am going to swap the rocker. I have ordered an OEM rocker cover as I prefer genuine stuff for things like this as I tend to find aftermarket parts are just not as good or reliable. I do think I am getting blow by and I do suspect its the rings but I know that can be exaggerated by a PCV issue so just fixing things one at a time to see if I can get it to a reasonable level of oil loss. TBH I am looking at second hand engines and then considering stripping it right down and rebuilding it myself with all new parts, would be a good opportunity to do a bit of a horse power increase as well.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any pictures of the original and aftermarket PCVs? Do you mean the membrane inside the cover, in the right corner behind injector #4. I had a leaking rocker cover last year that I fixed with a new aftermarket one purchased from skoda-parts, i think it was AIC-brand. The price difference versus a new original one was atleast two times cheaper. When compared side by side it felt good quality. Didn't check the condition of the PCV-membrane from neither rocker cover. I stashed the original rocker cover if i happen to need it for some reason, there wasnt any cracks or deformations that i could see, maybe the seals had lost their elasticity over the years (11 at the time of removal). What i am seeing is that after hard driving i can see some fine oil mist residues around the injector well oil seals on top of the rocker cover, and im almost certain it is motor oil not diesel fuel coming from the injector fuel line pipes. Makes me think that maybe the aftermarket rocker cover doesnt have same quality seals that the original factory one had. Thinking of trying to reseal the cover with new original quality seals or reseal the original rocker cover and put it back in place. Should also check the PCVs condition from both covers. Any ideas?

So yeah maybe somebody has firmware files so i could update my system? If so my email is <removed> Please use the internal messaging system in the first instance. This is to help prevent data scraping and spammers. Briskoda Admin

I think the Jag might be a grower. I'd like to see it in a normal paint scheme. The satin finish is impossible to maintain

I have had the fluid changed twice. Just not this time. Agreed I will look for a specialist. The dealer will probably just change the MCU or gearbox or both!

Any new firmware for my Swing? IMG_0349.HEIC

Morning all wise people. Dilemma time. Been running a 2015 L&K 2.0 estate superb for coming on 2 years. Got as a stop gap but love the car and has been brilliant so kept it. It’s now done 280k miles but is virtually perfect …apart from DMF starting to go. Do we think it would be pointless to change the DMF and clutch only for something else to go in another 10k miles. Local garage who is use for other cars has quoted about £1200. Alternatively I’ve seen a kit with clutch for around £400 with a discount. Is it insane to try and do this on the drive? Other alternative if can get the kit cheaply is anyone likely to fit a f and clutch kit I’ve purchased ? Thanks for any advise in advance!