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For CarPlay! The patch is free for the clock fix. Please read the posts correctly ! To add CarPlay it costs around £80 unless you know better, then enlighten me please.

Hi everyone, I have Octavia mk3.5, 2017 facelift 2L TDI 150HP 4x4 CRMB engine witch is a bullet proof engine, and I'm thinking to trade it in with 2026 2L TDI 115HP, just need an advice is it a good move? or just keep mine which is not giving me any troubles. Thanks in advance

I have always been able to send a WhatsApp message from my car whilst driving but recently my requests are falling on "deaf" ears. When asked who I want to send to when I say it just asks again. I can ask for a text message to be sent to any of my contacts without any problems. Is this likely to be the car or my phone settings having been changed?

80£? 😂 The Patch is free in the Internet

The patch is for CarPlay If I do the clock update it wipes out the CarPlay patch so I’d need to reinstall the patch for CarPlay. Another £80 Not worth it just for a clock error when the clock on the dash works perfectly.

Hi Guys, AUQ 130k miles Driving, coolant light came on, headed home as close (no overheating), checked next day lots of coolant but brown in colour (rather than pink) Took to garage, Block test passed and compression test passed. Garage now thinks headgasket but it hasnt overheated at any point. (I've seen block test can be passed at low rpms but when at 4000rpm exhaust gases were detected on another car) Oil cooler replaced and two 20 minute test drives all good, idled for pre mot for longer than 20 minutes and oil started showing in coolant again. I have been doing some research,apparently the coolant channels in the turbo internals (CHRA) can be breached by the higher pressure oil leading to oil in coolant but no standard head gasket mayo under oil cap and dipstick which are my symptoms. Has anyone any experience of this and has anyone fitted a new CHRA to a turbo? AI thinks the ks03 has coolant channels, others who have removed them said not..... Any ideas as want to rule out if possible before either fix or scrap AI: " Yes — confirmed, it's water-cooled. I checked the part-specific data rather than relying on memory. The exact turbo for your engine — K03s part number 5303 988 0052, OEM 06A145713F, the 180HP AUQ/ARZ unit — is explicitly listed with a water cooled bearing housing. That's the K03s fitted across the Mk1 Audi TT, Seat Leon Cupra, A3 8L, and Mk4 Golf/Octavia with the AUQ engine. TurboTurbos Backing it up: on the stock K03s, the line on top of the turbo running around the timing-belt side is the coolant return, and the coolant supply comes off the back of the block. The AN-line kits sold for this engine include both a turbo water feed line and a turbo water return line alongside the oil feed — two separate coolant lines to the CHRA. VW Vortex MAMBA TURBO And the tell-tale that people deliberately remove it: you can run the K03s oil-only, but you have to plug the old water lines to do it. If it weren't water-cooled from the factory, there'd be nothing to plug. VW Vortex So the diagnostic logic stands: your AUQ's K03s has oil and coolant galleries sharing the same centre housing, which is exactly what makes an internal breach able to push oil into the coolant — and what makes the coolant bypass test valid. If yours has already been swapped for an oil-only turbo at some point (worth a quick look — are there two small coolant lines actually running to it?), then the turbo drops off the suspect list entirely and you're back to head gasket / cracked head. So before the bypass test, just eyeball it: two small-bore water lines to the CHRA = stock water-cooled unit, test is valid." Thanks,

I'd call that a radiator cowl or diverter... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/366632913810?campid=5339147365&mkcid=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&toolid=20006&var=0&customid=EAIaIQobChMIx5HZj6rLlgMVrJlQBh1fKRAFEAQYASABEgKDV_D_BwE&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9046364&adtype=pla&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23841004265&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx5HZj6rLlgMVrJlQBh1fKRAFEAQYASABEgKDV_D_BwE

Hi I am looking to buy a 25/26 Skoda Fabian 1.0 95 bhp. Is there anything I should know about reliability or anything else related to the model please?

Here is a photo of the part I'm trying to find the name of.

I agree decent if not full service history including dsg regular service. Check old MOT results as well. Amazing what comes up like bald tyres etc which points to a car that hasnt been cared for. Also MOT will note underbody corosion etc especially if its from a high road salt area. Alasdair

John, everything in that (AI generated?) advice seems to focus on newer cars and the need to work with/around newer cars' enhanced security systems. My vehicle was manufactured in April 2020, based on the 2017-2020 Octavia III Facelift platform, so nothing about these newest generation, more secure car computers applies. My question remains whether OBDeleven's custom-hardware-restricting-to-custom software (at a slightly reduced price compared to one of the major device-independent software author's suggestion of MX+ as gold-standard compatible hardware) has a driving advantage, or whether compatible (vs. OBDeleven's custom) hardware is a better choice (especially if someone has a specific product recommendation as being as capable, reliable, and at least nearly as fast as, while being less expensive than, the MX+)? thank you,

Oh 🤦

If the carpets are dry it rules out heater matrix and no white smoke headgasket is good. From memory the water pump is on the gearbox side of some engines on mk3 fabia so it may be leaking there or perhaps(hopefully) a hose/hose clip has given up. Garage should be able to tell quite quickly where its leaking from. If it does overheat on way to garage wait till it cools down before topping up. Hope its an easy fix Alasdair

Thank you Jevpls for your reply. You’ve added some new faults that I haven’t come across before! I hope the dealer can sort out the keyless system problem. If some handles are reliable and some not then if you have the latter Skoda should in fairness fix it at no cost to you. But that’s in the ideal world I guess. I think your last sentence sums it up. You hope that known problems will have been sorted but there is always the concern that there are new faults heading our way. Just been reading about Toyota map updates frying the screen which then has to be replaced.

One more image as it exceeded 10mb limit. Thank you for the help once more. Helped me to begin troubleshooting as a complete beginner. Also no white smoke. Only seems to drop when I'm driving. In hilly Devon so constantly revving the car up hills and doing long distances, which isn't helping. Taking it very easy now.

Carpets are dry. This is where I spotted a wet patch after a 50 miles drive last night and the tank emptied from full on that journey alone. Running fans on full heat/speed and staying below 2000rpm until I reach a garage tomorrow.

Would anyone know what the plastic frame that, I assume, directs airflow into the radiator is called? Its roughly square and sits behind the bumper. It has no electric bits or other parts, its just a radiator-sized square of plastic. I looked up a few parts suppliers and did not see any photos of what I'm referring to (I'll post a photo when I get back from grinding more rust), so maybe I'll need to jerry-rig the one I have.

The photo is of Snehurka before the rust cracked through.

So I bought a cheap Felda as a 'city runner' to take pressure off my 1990 VW Weekender, then found the rust. Or rather, the rust broke through the auto dealer patch-job about a month after I bought her, so now I need to sort her out and joining a forum is probably a good idea. :-)

OK, I would never tell you what to spend your hard earned on. The info I added would I’d have thought might have pointed to the ODB11 3. However, you didn’t see that 👍

I have had the same problem easy way to fix it is take the cover off the side where the light switch is turn the car on but not start it turn the blower on full I now it's not working squeeze your hand in the gap and touch the relays until the blower comes on. Its just a loose relay 645 I think

Hello there, I've got 2021 Octavia. I'm thinking about disabling e-sim and GPS - all telemetry off etc. And I would like it not only in software level but I'd like it to be disconnected in hardware level as well. Anyone has done that? Looks like I won't be able to do it on my own and anyway I have to talk to a professional, but any experience would be appreciated.

I've got Octavia from 2021. For some while I was disappointed because it wasn't a "go for a brand new one and visit dealer for maintantance issues only" experience. However after hearing stories about other brand new cars, looks like it's not that bad. Somehow people with new cars have way more problems nowadays. In overall it think that quality should be better. In the very beginning my battery discharged twice. First time I thought that it was my fault somehow but actually it wasn't. Some software didn't go to sleep and drained it. Dealer solved this. Then I had interior lighting issues (switched on/off on it's own). Windscreen wiper motor died. Some clutch pedal bearing (if i recall correctly). All this was annoying but it was solved. Then there were 2 major things: 1) Parking sensor fault. During wintertime these sensors didn't work at all. I believe that car thought the battery was not full enough or something like that. I visited dealer for several times and each time I had a useless update. Only after 4 (!!!!!) years it was solved. 2) Keyless system sucks. During summertime everything is mostly fine however during autumn/wintertime it often doesn't work at all. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. As I understood from the dealer, there are different handles and some are reliable but some not. That's my experience. What will be yours - who knows. Maybe these issues are yesterday and there are some new.

That interesting as I read it exactly as the OP said, will they loose the Apple CarPlay? So going by what you say thats a simple yes then. Your reply says new patch, but what new patch? Is there an update with the clock fix that comes with Apple CarPlay or did you mean another patch?

There are bound to be 1.4 tsi PHEV,s that did not get Fixed Regime oil changes. No reports I am aware of these engines in a PHEV having issues. Are you getting a warranty? As long as the warranty provider would not say 'not serviced to the manufacturers schedule, recommendations or advice '. Which is something Skoda UK does quite regularly.