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Diesel

Hi, thank you once again for your help! So, this is where it gets interesting... Cinch, being a massive moneysupermarket of cars, don't tend to give out much service history. I therefore did my own digging (calling MOT centres, online paid searches etc) to build a picture of the service history. Looks likes its head general maintenance (oil change, brakes +fluid, plenty of tires etc), but no indication of any other major services that I could find. I know, a little dodgy already, but that's just how they operate. Maybe car people like us are not their target market! In terms of remap, i have no idea if it would have had one, and I have no idea how to check. It hadn't occurred to me that it would have. VAQ wise, I'm pretty sure as this is a 2018 230ps model, it didn't come with a VAQ unlike the 245 editions? But please correct me if I'm wrong, and advise on how I can check if I have one or not. Is there any way for me to check any of the things you mention out through the infotainment system (in the Car tab, or settings etc?), or would it need to be OBD read to determine these things? I appreciate I sound like a novice, and to anything post 2000s, I am! But I would really appreciate any help I can get on this so that I can make a more informed decision as to whether to keep the car or not. It's a Meteor Grey Petrol Manual Estate which to me is the ultimate spec for these cars, so I don't want my attraction to blind me, and leave me stuck with a very expensive paperweight when it turns out to be a dud. Thank you so much for your help :)

Thanks for the advice! I'm definitely going to wait and see till the diagnostics has been run before making any decision. Out of curiosity, please could I get some further advice if that's okay? If you were to list what sort of issue you would accept, like the sticking turbo actuator arm, vs what sort of issues would lead you to walk away from the car, how would the lists look? That would help me massively once I get the diagnosis back to decide whether to keep the car or not. Appreciate I'm asking a lot, but if you knew of any other threads that might cover this list of accept/reject faults, that would be greatly appreciated. I really want to keep the car, but I don't want to make a 5 figure mistake if I end up keeping a dodgy one...Thank you so much for your help! :)

It's a 2l 150hp engine that's done 118591 miles. Oil change done at 118488. Last full service 12/09/2025 at 112689. Last fuel fill up on 21/09. Light came on either 27/09 or 28/09. I ran the OBD Eleven on 28/09.

I joined many years ago when my late dad had a 2002 Fabia. I am now looking at buying a new car and the Octavia estate is looking good. Any insights into which model or engine (petrol) works be really useful.

This is my original thread. There are some pictures but not of the extraction but some helpful videos and general discussion... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/528615-spare-parts-where-to-buy-from

Those failures are common failures. Moving parts on cars wear out so its expected at some point although I'm surprised at the very low mileage and several failures for the bushes and arms. It is very poor road conditions in the area of the car? Country lanes poorly maintained etc?

I've changed 2 glow plugs on my Octavia 2L TDi in the last year. I have a bike torque wrench which goes up to 20Nm. The removal torque is around 25Nm/30Nm depending on the manufacturer. Tightening torque was 12-15Nm which is basically nothing. Both glow plugs came out easily with just a little bit over 20Nm. I sprayed them with WD-40 the night before, drove it during the day and the replaced the glow plug a few hours after I came home. The electrical connector is easy to remove if you have the access to grip the plastic body lightly and pull up. In the Octavia forum there was a very helpful technician who said that, most problems removing the plugs occur when they have been changed by someone before who has overtightened them. From the factory they usually come out easily. He recommended not to overtighten when you refit them. There are some videos on YouTube that even say to only hand tighten them. I chose to tighten to the minimum and haven't had problems since. I used ceramic grease on mine, but I was surprised that, apart from the heating tip, the rest of the glow plug was pretty clean for 225k km and 12 years use. My advise, is don't worry too much, be gentle and slow applying pressure & if in doubt, stop. Spray some more and try again, leaving it to the next day if necessary. Gabbo

Hello guys, is the problem witaj vibrations solved? I havevthe same problem with my new skoda. Skoda warianty servicd said that it is normal. I couldnt find solution on polish forums. That the reason i’m here

Good evening, I am trying to find the brochure for a 2025 VRS, but can’t find a UK one at all. I think there’s a Jan 25 and July 25 but I am not sure. Does anyone know where I could got it from please. Thanks

Just posted in the past day or so: https://www.autoevolution.com/news/skoda-issues-massive-recall-17-million-vehicles-feature-tiny-steering-bolt-that-can-snap-276674.html I searched for "48LS", which the article says is Skoda's tracking number for the recall, but I only find that in a small number of news articles. Anyone have an inside scoop on which Skoda (Octavia wagon) vehicles are included in this recall?

Best give some clues like WHAT ENGINE, how many miles done, when was it serviced last. Could there have been some issue with the last fuelling of the var?

Type 01 https://www.jaguar.com/en-gb/index.html

Good evening I have a 2019 Skoda Superb. The exhaust warning light came on a week or so ago. I ran my OBD Eleven and I can clear the warning light. However it does keep coming on. Having had a similar issue with my previous Superb my partner suggested driving it at high revs for 15/20 minutes which we did. I cleared the light, but the next time I went out in the car it was back on. Any suggestions or advice will be gratefully received.

Only just seen this. How did you get on?

Hopefully I dodged a bullet. My Octavia was registered in about week 9 of 2015, so would have been manufactured a bit earlier.

For the rear demister, check the loop of wiring between body and hatch for broken connections - for the washers, is there any sign of water ingress in the trunk?

The fault could be something as simple as a sticking turbo actuator arm, wait and see what the investigation shows before considering rejection.

An 18" space saver wheel (145/85R18 4Jx18 ET28) from the Kodiaq MK1/MK2 might fit, but you would need to check for clearance. The outside diameter of a 145/85R18 tyre is about 5% smaller than the standard Elroq tyres, so that's another possible problem. The Elroq's traction control might need to be turned off (if that's possible) for the car to even move. Skoda did use a 205/55R16 spare wheel for the Superb MK3, and that is also about 5% smaller than the car's standard tyre sizes...so it has been done before. The load index of a 145/85R18 space saver tyre is 103(875kg), so it can support the weight of an Elroq. 145/85R18 4Jx18 ET28 5/112 57.1 space saver wheel (Kodiaq MK1/MK2) https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/565601011k-spare-wheel-skoda-50288.html

Hi all, Just putting this out on the forum to see what everyone thinks and what things I can do to make my build better. I am aiming to buy a 2003-2004 fabia VRs pd130 and even though I’m a truck mechanic. This is my first time ever doing something with a diesel engine to make it into a performance engine. I’m hoping to push my build to high 200s low 300s. Any feedback at all is greatly appreciated and I will keep you posted on the build status.

All very good points. Totally agree.

I've just got my Jag back from its service and MOT everything is good, although the rear tyres are apparently quite worn But as is typical of a Jag dealership, the actual service is a bit patchy. I wonder if some of Jaguar's woes are because of this rather than their cars. I've had a couple of problems before with Jaguar and my car being in their hands and this time was not totally smooth either. The F Type is by far the most expensive car I've had and I did think I might get the same sort of excellent service I've had from BMW, but as usual....no. I dropped the car off and made a big point that I didn't want my car washed (the last time I did this they started to wash the car before I could stop them!!) anyhoo they put a big lable in the car saying not to touch it with a soggy sponge. No, my trouble this time was I asked them to let me know the moment the car was ready, as I was walking to the dealership and it was a couple of miles, which by the time I'd crossed a few roads probably means nearly 40 mins to get there. Sooo when it got to 17:00hrs I figured I'd better set off even though they hadn't bothered to ring me. On arrival, the service department seemed to be in the process of going home, at least I guessed this by their absence. Reception had certainly gone and it was thanks to the nice lady who makes tea, that she was able to find the service chap to sort my car out. Then came the bill, it was very big! Personally, if I worked in the service dept I'd have stayed all night if a customer was going to pay such a large invoice, but that's just me perhaps? I did query the bill however, when I was told that my AdBlue had been topped up, so they had to charge for it. I think you can guess what happened next..... 🤬 I realise in hindsight that it is possible, if unlikely, that it might not be obvious that I have a (very) petrol powered car, not a diesel

thank you

What SERVICE HISTORY do you have? What indication would you get that a vRS had a remap. CINCH never reset to Factory Settings. Has the VAQ Diff been serviced? Steering assist or brake assist might not be at Factory setting. This is what happens when buying used cars from Private sellers, Dealerships or car supermarkets. You do not know what you get until you can check everything out.

Hi, thanks for the response! Say it was the spark plugs, given the car failed straight after purchase, should I still be walking away, or are spark plugs a common issue? Regarding the E10, I actually filled it up form 1/4 empty to full with E10 myself on the way home. I’ve got no indication that it’s been remapped, so would assume it should run fine on E10. Could I get the garage to check the ECU for any previous tinkering when they take it away to code read it? Thanks 😊