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Had a look at https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/fabia/info/fusebox/2010#anchorfusebox4 and it seems that fuse 51 (drivers side plus rear left)and fuse 52 (passenger side plus rear right) are for door control unit so I assume they do windows. Alasdair

I have a Viofo 229pro. Excellent video quality, easy set up, will plug into the usb port on the mirror and many useful features.

There isn't a polish or film that reliably "masks" that kind of cratering. Once the outer surface is chewed up, light scatter in low sun is a glass problem, not a wipe or coating problem, so replacement is the real fix. On the MOT side it is worth taking seriously. Manual section 3.2 fails damage in Zone A over 10 mm, or elsewhere in the swept area over 40 mm, when it significantly affects the driver's view. Zone A is the 290 mm strip centred on the steering wheel inside the wipe pattern. Dense pitting that makes you almost stop in bright sunlight is judged on that "significantly affects the view" test, even if no single crater is 10 mm. Excessive scratching that hurts swept-area visibility can also go Major or Dangerous under 3.2 (c). For the vRS electronics: a proper ADAS-compatible screen for your VIN (right camera bracket, rain sensor, heating options per the PR codes) plus camera calibration after fit is what keeps Front Assist / Lane Assist working. Ask the glass fitter in writing that they will (1) supply glass matched to your options, (2) calibrate the forward camera with a suitable tool, and (3) confirm any radar alignment if your bumper pack needs it. That is the answer to the insurance "connectivity" worry, more than the brand of glass. If you want a second opinion before you book it, ask an MOT tester to sit in the driver's seat in similar sun and say whether they would class the view as significantly affected under 3.2.

With this variant of window motor, none of the other door functions use or even connect to it. Interesting that passenger window doesn't even work from its own switch. Fuse 11 isn't relevant for facelift mk2 windows; not sure which numbers the main window module fuses are, maybe not the same as mk1.

C pillar and top plastic edge of side trim which you would need to remove to install the torch holder anyway. C pillar clips on and trim is 4 Torx screws. It can be a little fiddly to replace but all very doable. The workshop manual describes clearly how to dismantle. I can send you the relevant pages if you don’t have.

Excellent! Does the entire panel has to come off, or it can be only the c pilar trim? While not afraid of dismantling, I am a bit overrun with things and tend not to open up works I need to leave half-way, especially on the family wagon ... 🤪☠️

We are going offtopic, but just to say I do have a UK address through my forwarder to I have workarounds for shipping and delivery when "normal" is complicated. Otherwise Brexit would have seriously dented (not killed, mind you!) my unstoppable (masochistic perhaps!) passion for Land Rovers and other associated British machinery! 😁 RogueWagon let me rummage in the garage and I'll get back to you via PM, thanks! 😉

Finally managed to find time to change the oil! Now running Pakelo Krypton Racing in 0W40 let's see how it manages the winter. The previous oil was Fuchs Titan GT1 in 5W40 which after 14 months and 8,750km came out pretty darkish, so good it was to replace. Car had little urban use, most hwy and a couple of them long hauls on a spirited manner 🫢 I also put already the winters, it is a wee early but I have time now, surely none later 🫣 Front pads have 1/3 left, so to keep in mind. Haldex is neglected and to do, but I lost the package with the bolts and seals so might reorder and if I ever find them ... is a consumable after all. I got a but of a worry as I found oily "wettish" in the area of where the dipstick is, but not sure if it comes from somewhere up, or where can it leak? The bottom engine cover is dry clean, the stuff goes towards the lower arm and seeps along the undercarriage. As far as I could see, the top of the engine (camshaft cover) seems dry. Any ideas at what to look at? The dipstick really? (never happened to me in like over twenty years of motoring).

Hi SkOmk4, Speaking to them yesterday when I went to pick the car up they said that they'll need the car for 2 maybe 3 days as its a large update. The workshop manager explained its an update that goes through all of the cars ECU's and it can take up to 3 days. I checked on the car yesterday and the software version currently installed on mine is 2768. I know logically when there's an update its for the better but coming from many years of owning land rovers the main consensus there is 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' which mainly (also) goes for updates (and yes, I know firsthand you can't compare any LR to anything else reliability-wise but I love the wife's Octavia just as much). Honestly I'm pretty happy with the infotainment especially reading up on the pre-facelift issues. I had this issue with the screen come up 3-4, maybe 5 times over the past year and they all occured during summer where the car's interior can reach extreme temperatures so didn't really worry me as it went away after you switched tha car off and on again. I booked it in yesterday for next month to get the update and see if that fixes it (although as said above, very rare) The weirdest thing I find in the Octavia is that when my wife and I are both in the car somehow both our phones are connected to the car. No matter which one rings, it goes straight to the car speakers so we need to remember to disconnect one everytime. Apologies for the long post and thank you very much for the info.

So long as you declare as gift and under €30 it should be free of any import duty or tax. Would just be postage costs.

The wire for the hatch lights is red/blue and just behind the c pillar trim at a connector. A positap or soldered splice would be suitable. Constant power can be taken from anywhere and there is an earth point behind the trim too. Relatively simple diy job

I could be interested As I only want to change a few little things on mine But I’m in the Uk So probably doesn’t make much sense for you!

For reference, the holder is given by skoda-parts as number 3T0 947 509 with subsequent suffixes but I think the shape always the same. 9B9 is for black, WC4 for beige. Don't seem to be different between hatch and kombi. As for the cabling, as mentioned must fish somewhere in the wiring to find the relevant signals. Any electrical auto shop should have the male connector to fit the wires. Someday ....

That is exacltly what I've learned after buying OBD11 with a gazillion credits ... yeah, I should have made my homework better, but they had the bundle in offer and I went at it. Useless in my case, since I could not "adapt" or "long code" anything else that I'd already done with VCDS. For me, it is useless ... it stays somewhere in the garage unused. Perhaps I should put it in the marketplace, if someone has interested in it I'd be happy it gets to be of use to another briskodian ...

The update they mention for the facelift versions is more that the infotainment unit - it's a package with software updates for many other ECUs on the car - called PV4RC. The update is worth doing - the general opinion is that it addresses several SW gremlins, even though I still have some issues trailing after the update. AFAIK the latest update for the infotainment unit is 2768 for Seat/Cupra - the Skoda one should have the last digit +/-1 - otherwise they are "labeled" the same for VAG siblings sharing the same hardware. There was no major version update for the infotainment over the past year, unless the new models coming out of the factory have a newer version that's still unreleased OTA.

Pete, The Drivers Side Door Switches Illuminate with the lights. The driver side window controls don't operate either side at the moment. The passenger side window controls are not working either. Everything on the Drivers door works perfectly (i.e. Electric Mirror Controls, Electric Mirror, Central Locking & Door Switch For Interior Light.) The car has a full history and the previous owner has spent a fortune maintaining the car, which leads me to believe he has already had a garage look at it. This is why I'm trying to gather as much information as I can, as I expect the repair to be a little cumbersome and not straightforward, as he would have already resolved the issue if is was simple.

The ''feeling'' now is better when you change gears? My gear stick sense was very sloppy plus i has a problem in 3rd gear,it was shaking a bit and i always afraid that it will be disengage by itself. 😄

We have Maxxis Victra sport 6 suv on our 1.5tsi and never had any issue with them. Seem to grip well in the wet. Not having to handle about of power but we are very happy with them!

Do you have your headlights on "Auto"? If so, i think you can press the "Low beam" button, which will turn off the high beam without flashing other drivers

I successfully replace this rubber and 2 pieces of o-rings.

So, passenger side module from a 9n Polo with only two electric windows. That will never make the system work correctly in your car. Don't worry about the wiring.

Udate, this issue has been traced to the wiring loom from the steering wheel, the column was in the lowest position and is causing an interruption in power to the dashboard kicking in the immobiliser circuit that momentarily cuts power to the engine causing a stall. With the steering wheel in the uppermost position the car runs perfectly. The job now is to have a look at the wiring loom for either a break in a cable, the loom catching when turning the steering wheel as while replacing the starter switch I may have caused the loom to be moved, or a loose plug. At least the car is now driveable again.

Looking at a bigger car cos of twin grand kids coming next year. Brand new Kodiaq 1.5mHev at only A$49k drive away with 7 year warranty. (25k pounds) Economy at 6l/100 seems to good to be true for a 1700kg car. Anyone got experience on whether power is adequate and real world fuel use around town and on a run? The dealers dangled a PHEV in front of us and we fell for it hook, line and sinker

Any signs of water on the oil filler cap (possibly white foam rather than droplets), or on the dipstick?

Hi @pab567, could you please check if there is a software update available for my MIB3 Bolero unit? Currently running: MEN3_EU_SK370_P0393L (MU 1310). Thanks a lot for your help!