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Hello, I’d like to bring up an old thread of mine again. Does anyone have any ideas regarding my issue? It seems that the authorized service center doesn't even know what to do or suggest—according to them, everything is fine. The sound in the link occurs almost every morning, or during the day after the car has been sitting for a while. Lately, it has also been happening after long drives. The sound appears when the car is rolling in 'D' (Drive) gear, or when starting to move in 'D' without pressing the accelerator pedal. As soon as the car comes to a stop, the sound disappears. They replaced the belt tensioner this week, but it didn't help. Also, besides this sound, there is some jerking when accelerating. Thanks for your thoughts. https://youtube.com/shorts/4iBDhxFsDdc?feature=shared

Crikey are the OE front wiper blades this noisy on all Fabia’s?

Skoda 3D printable accessories https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/printly-clever-custom-accessories-you-can-3d-print-yourselves/ 'The world beneath the upholstery' https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/the-world-beneath-the-upholstery/

Should I perform an update for the software, or should I continue using it as is?

Is there an explanatory video?

Firmware 0480 Only Install when the unit is patched, you need modify Meta File and Audio Channel Change Side, After Update left is right

There’s a full list of bulbs to be replaced to LED I started writing down each bulb and location - but was taking ages And wondered if there was a list or do I need to keep going 😂

Is there any visible damage to the loom in the vicinity of the wiring core failure - or is it not accessible?

I totally agree with you, but it was the only thing I could think of. I think this was the root cause to all the electrical gremlins I had before, So I probably unnecessarily changed the alternator as well. I´m just glas that it works now.

It could be that the brake pedal hasn't returned fully. Try and lift it with your toe. Also check reservoir isnt full to the brim. Only other thing I can think of is ABS unit. It may require vcds or similar to bleed if air got in while changing calipers. As its all four wheels I reckon its trapped hydraulic pressure somewhere between master and ABS. Alasdair

Hi Only the boot (half) of my 2013 Superb opens.Is it possible to open the full hatch manually to examine the wiring in the hinged area. What does the Torx Bolt pictured do?

I have just fitted new front dics calipers and pads to my 2015 skoda roomster 1.2 tsi with 35000 miles the items were replaced as brakes had seized on 1 wheel following a successful mot/nct test a d 1 front disc had been fried so to speak after fitting new brakes and bleeding system all 4 wheels are locked any ideas

Yes Sir, Mr. Thread Revival.

So when I collected my car Smelt of dog constantly Detailer says they have painted over the dog hair with black spray paint While he will do his best to get a lot of it off Is there part numbers for new side pieces, maybe bottom carpets and back of the seats? This is what I’m faced with So might just replace Part numbers and pieces be perfect for all rear pieces Estate

Thank you for the detailed study.

To be fair, it's always been a requirement for drivers to check their vehicle. The Highway Code states: Checks you should carry out Every time you drive you should check: the windscreen, windows and mirrors are clean all lights work the brakes work It's our laziness that encourages reliance on the car's electronics, but are they always right. There are now street legal LED retro fit bulbs that can still be seen as failed by some ECU's (older I suspect) that can be fooled by a resistor pack (Osram do all of this). NOTE: Unsurprisingly, the UK is behind the majority of European countries in granting LED retro fit bulbs type approval 🙄 All 'coding out' bulb failure means is doing checks as per the Highway Code 🙂

There must have been significant damage or poor crimping there before these events happened, almost certainly at build time, or wiring harness build time. No way an inrush surge from connecting a battery should be able to burn out wiring.

Thanks a lot mate qick question will this file work with VCP? I tried couple of .frf files allready and all the time the VCP run into an error due to missing .odx file. Thanks for answer

I get that I just like shorter clean plates Maybe have the front bumper smoothed in the future

Waze and Google maps were set up on the digital dash. Certainly not a must have, but a nice little gimmick.

Yeah mine seems to have about 20 holes through it. I put plate holders on as I don’t like seeing screw heads in plates!

Yeah noticed the rears Front bumper looks a **** show 🫣😂

Also with the plates, rear one has rivnuts through the metal skin so screw hole positions are fixed. Front are just self tappers through the plastic bumper.

Hi everyone, I wanted to update this thread with the final solution, as the car is now 100% fixed and running perfectly! It turned out to be a classic, physical wiring issue hidden behind phantom voltage, and NOT a digital/software lock or component protection. How the fault was isolated: After systematically verifying that the ignition switch (D-switch) and the internal board of the J527 Steering Column Module were healthy, I started measuring the actual voltage under load. I discovered that Pin 1 (Red wire - Terminal 30 / Constant Power) on the main 20-pin connector (T20a) going into the Steering Column Module (J527) was only receiving between 1.5V and 3.5V. This was a classic phantom voltage situation. The wire had enough physical continuity to pass a basic multimeter beep/continuity test, but under any form of load, the voltage collapsed completely. Because the J527 module was only getting a few volts, its internal network chip couldn't boot up. This caused the LIN-bus to shut down, made the instrument cluster go completely pitch black, and threw the whole car's CAN-bus into a frenzy, triggering all the Lost Communication codes. The Root Cause: While the fuse box under the hood (E-box) was delivering a healthy 13V, the voltage dropped to 1.5V on the inside of the cabin where the wire changes color/thickness. When the alternator originally failed (draining the system) and the new battery was connected, the initial inrush current/spark acted as a "fuse" at the weakest link of that specific power line. The wire had physically burned out/melted inside the factory crimp/welded splice inside the wiring harness harness right where it passes through the firewall (torpedvägg). Only a single strand of copper was left touching, allowing just enough "ghost voltage" through to trick a multimeter, but not enough to wake up the modules. The Fix: I hooked up a power probe to inject a clean, fused 12V/13V Terminal 30 source directly into Pin 1 on the J527 connector—and the entire car instantly woke up! The dashboard lit up, the Terminal 15 relay clicked automatically, and the car started right up with zero issues. To make a reliable and permanent fix without ripping apart the entire insulated factory wiring loom under the firewall, I performed a permanent bypass: Ran a new, high-quality 12V wire from a verified, constant Terminal 30 slot in the cabin fuse box. Added an inline 5A fuse to protect the new circuit. Snipped the damaged original wire a few centimeters before the J527 connector (insulating the old 1.5V end). Spliced the new, clean 12V line directly into Pin 1. Everything is now working flawlessly, and all communication errors are gone. Thank you to everyone who read along—if you ever experience a completely black dash and dead ignition after a battery change on a VAG car, always load-test Pin 1 on your steering column module!

No the ignition was off when the battery was Connected.