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Centre front arm rest
Thanks for that, missed the reply to this. I am not fussed in having the Carplay in the arm rest just so it has charging ability so this should work then.. Unless anyone has the Skoda part numbers for this, as I would like Skoda to get this on my behalf due to the issues I had with them
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Brakes sticking on
Thanks - I'll be sure to mention these things to the garage tomorrow
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What is the difference between a 40 kw and 50kw Skoda 1.3 mpi engine?
That's good news. So according to you worht to buy a cheaper 40Kw engine and then pay to make it 50Kw? I not, the ''AI nonsense" not so let's collect different opinions from members for the best result.
- Felicia MPI: Strange Front-End Noise β Brakes & Bearings Replaced
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Photography Thread
Cold, grey and a little misty at the Res this morning although there was considerable excitement over the sighting of a grey phalarope! I didn't have my camera with meπ€¦ββοΈ Not a bird I'd heard of although I was told it's not a common sight in the UK?
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Substantial increase in fuel consumption
OMG! I think we have a winning reply! Perhaps a careless omission from my initial post, but the WAS a hot smell coming from the car the first time I noticed the low fuel consumption. I thought it was a brake binding, and the hot smell didn't repeat for my home journey after that one instance, despite still having that 20-something MPG on that return journey, so I thought it was a red herring and didn't mention it. My goodness! That would explain why there were no fault codes and the garage found nothing. I think you have nailed it! π
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What is the difference between a 40 kw and 50kw Skoda 1.3 mpi engine?
@D.FYLAKTOS Please, do not just copy&paste AI nonsense here, it'll just scrub here again and reinforce bad information and will be even more inaccurate. Anyone can ask LLM themselves, no need to do it for them and spread misinformation. Pistons raise CR from 9.5 to 10. Not that big of a difference and it may be possible to reach through head skimming. The biggest difference is valve timing and ignition timing. The ECU is tuned for 91RON fuel, so it has milder advance settings. The valves have narrower timing because of the fuel, too. There may be different head, but not ignition volume, but rather different cross section of inlet ports - though this changed so much throughout the production that I'm not sure if it's difference between the two variants. Also, one difference not related to the engine - the 40kW has FASTER gearbox - in fact, as tall as the 1.6. 50kW is 250/500RPM faster on 5th gear (pre-facelift/facelift), to increase torque on wheels. There's another potential issue - around 1997 MY, there was change in camshaft bearing size, which also affected timing chain sprockets. So you'll need to check which variant you have and find correct donor, if you proceed with swap.
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Brakes sticking on
Hi Mark. All four sticking at once, only after a few minutes of braking, and freeing off once it has cooled down, points at the master cylinder not letting fluid back to the reservoir rather than at the calipers. Four calipers don't all seize at the same time, and the timing (straight after the master cylinder job) is a strong clue. How it works: when you let the pedal go, the piston in the master cylinder returns fully and uncovers a small return port to the reservoir. If the piston is held even slightly forward, that port stays covered. As the fluid warms up from braking it expands, has nowhere to go, and pushes all four brakes on. Leave it a few minutes, it cools and contracts, and everything is fine again. That matches what you're describing. Things I'd ask the garage to check tomorrow: 1. Pedal return. With the engine off, make sure the pedal comes all the way back to its stop and isn't being held by the brake light switch, the trim or the carpet. If the brake lights stay faintly on or flicker with your foot off, the pedal isn't fully home. 2. Servo pushrod to master cylinder clearance. If the new master cylinder sits differently on the servo, or the pushrod is now pressing on the piston with no free play, you get exactly this. There should be a small amount of free play before the piston starts moving. 3. The part itself. Is it the correct master cylinder for the vRS, and is it new or reconditioned? A wrong-spec or faulty unit with a sticking piston can do the same thing. 4. Fluid. Make sure it was topped up with the correct DOT 4 type and nothing else went in. A useful test if it happens again with the garage: when it's stuck, safely crack a bleed nipple open. If fluid spurts out under pressure and that wheel frees straight away, the pressure is being held upstream (master cylinder or servo side), which confirms it. Please don't keep driving it like this, as dragging brakes overheat quickly and can fade. Hope it's an easy fix, let us know what they find.
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SparePartAlam started following Brakes sticking on
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Park Assist when stationary
Admittedly that helps with one of the issues, Steve. Although Google maps (I use carplay most of the time) does also show the junction in the left dial but without the surrounding context. It's more the annoyance than anything of all these little issues combined.
- Today
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Kodiaq 2017 - Strange 9 errors from nowhere
I agree with battery check as well as earths etc. Anything under 12.2V may be too low as during cranking can drop below threshold for electronics. It could be a completely dead ABS sensor or broken wires to one. If the ECU detects no connection it may ping up those errors. If the battery is good and earths are good I would get it scanned with vcds to see if it can pick up something the garage scanners cant. Also check the brake light is working. Alasdair
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Headphone suggestions
In the end I went for Audio-Technica M50xBT. they were well reviews and he didnβt need the noise reduction. He's happy with them so that's a win. Got them as returns on Amazon warehouse for a bit of a discount. they were missing a cable but they coughed for a replacement.
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Most upset, my V3 L&K written off after a cretin drove into me.
Lucky he doesnβt have warning stickers on the back of his van. Sorry for the sh*tshiw @Stunts - hopefully you get something and back on the road quickly
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Engine sounds like old transit van after timing belt change --- 2020 Octavia 2.0 TDI ( DSTA / EA288 EVO )
Mine in December of the same year (31st, missed out on being 2021 registered by one day lol)
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Substantial increase in fuel consumption
Just a thought, it could be the GPF regeneration. It happened to me after several days of slowish journeys. I even called the RAC out thinking there was a fuel leak. Never happened again.
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MIB3 map update
Thanks for the explanation
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MIB3 map update
Yes. The portal ones are for people who choose not to subscribe to online map updates and are free twice a year. Traditional for Skoda and VW. The online connected services ones are monthly. You got the October one there 26.10. It would be a down grade if you managed to get that June one installed. It wont let you downgrade. People do periodically loose the ability to get the over the air in car updates for whatever reason. Outside Europe connect service are not rolled out so like the old days map updates can only be done via USB if the car is enabled for them. Another story. In the current economic climate some people discontinue their connect services contract but with the app integration of all things between phone and car, penny pinching they loose the ability to do those extra things remotely like turn on the heating in an EV etc. Firmware updates are distributed free whether you have a connected service contract or not but you must be logged into the car as the primary user for that to take place. Then it informs you that there is one to install.
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JacobSladder started following Skoda superb sportive estate 2023 suspension to soft
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MIB3 map update
So I have the latest update even before the one on the Skoda portal?
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Substantial increase in fuel consumption
I've tried to second-guess myself on the driving style, trying to fit the available data into a theory, but it's very much guesswork, and it doesn't explain the HUGE variation in MPG, given a very similar route driven at a similar pace, traffic permitting. (I'm just driving too and from work, after all.)
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Brakes sticking on
Hi 2006 Fabia vRS Had the master cylinder replaced a couple of weeks ago. Brakes much improved. However, a couple of times since the brakes have stuck on. Apply brakes for example on approach to roundabout. Go to accelerate away from roundabout and car is held back. When you take your foot off the accelerator it feels like the brakes are on. Pulled over when safe and you could smell hot brakes. All 4 wheels were hot so brakes definitely sticking. Turned off, waited a few minutes then all ok again. It's happened 3 times now. Car going back to garage tomorrow but mechanic has said he's not come across this before. We've used same garage for several years now. Any ideas? Mark
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No GPS Reception
Thanks, much appreciated.
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Amundsen MIB2 Firmware Update
Hi everyone hoping to get some help with my mib unit I am having issues connecting to android auto On MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T 5Q0035874A I have tried everything I'm aware of so far and now I'm thinking it's got to be a software/firmware issue. I've tried several different OEM cables and 5 different phones (iPhones and Android) I have replaced the usb port with " 5Q0 035 726 E " aswell as a new HSD cable from the head unit in the glovebox to the back of the USB I have also tried 3 different byte 19 codes and checked that android auto and is enabled in 5F module the usb has been set to "full" but after all of that I still cannot get any to be recognised it seems like the usb just isn't sending data I haven't had the car very long maby a month but I have yet to get smartlink to work Bluetooth seems ok however it does drop out from time to time and is around 15/20 seconds delayed I would really like to get Android auto working as I do a lot of motorway miles and I like being able to easily change music to podcasts ect.. if anyone can help or possibly point me in some other direction I would massively appreciate it π
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HBH96 started following Amundsen MIB2 Firmware Update
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Amundsen MIB2 Firmware Update
I say it is Not the Solution
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hi im jimmy
hi im new im hoping i have said hello in the correct section if im wrong can you let me no were to do it thanks jimmy
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hi im jimmy
hiim jimmy im a newbie if im in the wrong place to say can someone point me in the correct direction thanks
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Lily101210 started following hi im jimmy
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Lily101210 joined the community
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Strange discovery
My 2008 fabia was fitted with a single mass flywheel. I was shocked when they looked up my reg and told me it was a solid flywheel. Had the clutch replaced first time and no issues, now for my second clutch and I'm getting bad vibrations when taking off in first gear or when I reverse. Now the clutch was replaced it's looking like I need to replace the flywheel. Will this fix the problem or not big? Do i replace it with a dual mass or stick with the single mass. All comes down to money. Anyone Else have this issue. Thanks.