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£100 seems well worth the investment, especially when measured against the time taken to clean these wheels. My back will also be grateful! Still a bit unsure of the front protection film. You're right about the fragility of the paint these days and we picked up a bonnet chip within just a few days of taking delivery 😢. This is something I will investigate further. If you would be so kind as to let us all know how you find cleaning the rims after the ceramic application? Appreciate it will be next summer before you're able to do that. Best wishes.

I have an Aguri DX4000 which has Speed camera database and speed warnings included. Easy to use App for downloading incidents. Free regular updates to databases. Works really well and gives early warning of approaching Cameras. My other half has a DX1200 in her car. It has a smaller screen but does the same job. Available from their web site and very often at SALE prices.

Are you talking about a drop from MAX to below MIN and an empty tank. Max is MAX and many vehicles then find their own level between MIN and MAX. That is why there is no FILL TO THIS LEVEL mark. There is an overflow. But obviously emptying the reservoir is a different kettle of fish, or a leaking kettle.

My local specialist charges me just £100 to ceramic coat a set of 'simple' wheels. The Veritate is at the upper limit of what he classifies as 'simple' - it would be more expensive if there were more elements to the spokes, different finishes, etc. That cost is also based on the wheels being presented in pristine condition. So they need iron and tar removal, and a spotless clean first. He then does the final de-greasing and surface prep before applying the coating. BTW, he has also quoted 'around £1k' to apply paint protection film to the vulnerable zones on the bumper, bonnet, and wing mirrors. I always assumed PPF was only economically viable for very expensive cars. But the cost to get a handful of tiny chips filled and resprayed on my previous car was in that same ballpark, so I am seriously considering it. (I wish we could just return to the days when car manufacturers were allowed to use proper paint that could survive typical road conditions)

Thanks again, Whenever you get the chance would be grateful although I think I've made my decision anyway. Also happy to buy from your recommended seller if you have had good experiences with him. Re measuring for the hole, my thoughts were to find the centre of the pad (Or hole in the original mount turret) then somehow project that onto the cover and form the cut out from there either with a hole saw or rotary tool. If I can keep it tight and accurate enough might get away without a rubber trim/seal as the cover is not totally watertight anyway.

Not sure but read its similar to VW polo 6R. Found this https://polo.blue/removing-wiper-frame-with-linkage-and-wiper-motor/ They also say remove bulkhead etc. Looks like a nightmare to get to. Alasdair

Lots of info in this thread:

The current UK-marketed Skoda Fabia range comprises 5 models and (depending on the model) the road-wheel diameter can be 15", 16", 17" or 18" and ALL of those wheels are fitted as standard with XL (Extra Load) tyres except for the tyres fitted to the 15" wheels. The Load Index/Speed Rating of the original-equipment (OE) tyres are 15" - 88H 560kg 210 km/h 130mph 16" - 91V 615kg 240km/h 149mph 17" - 91W 615kg 270km/h 168mph 18" - 89W 580kg 270km/h 168mph Car manufacturers will ALWAYS specific OE tyres that have Load Index/Speed Rating values that significantly exceed the car's weight and speed maxima. The unusual thing with the Fabia Mk4 is that, irrespective of the specification of the model, the tyres it has and the 'load it is carrying, a single 2.5bar (36.26psi) inflation-pressure is recommended - and that's going to result in a firm ride. It's more common for a range of inflation pressures to be recommended that depend on the load the car is carrying, (eg. 2 people + some luggage, 4 people + a lot of luggage) - that's the case for my 2009 Skoda Roomster, but not for my 2024 Fabia Mk4. My Roomster's has 15"-diameter alloy wheels and its current tyres are Falken 195/55 85V. Its OE tyres were same-size Continental products, but with an "H" speed-rating (and an unpleasant propensity to 'tram-line'). The Falken tyres I chose happen to have a V Speed Rating, but an H rating would be perfectly adequate for the Roomster. If I inflate the Roomster's tyres to the recommended '2 persons' pressure of 2.2bar/32psi, its ride is quite firm, but if the pressure drops to 2.0bar/29psi (say in very cold weather) I can notice the ride has softened until the tyres warm up. There is plenty of online information about reinforced tyres and their pros and cons (example here) https://www.oponeo.co.uk/blog/reinforced-tyres-advantages-and-disadvantages?srsltid=AYCX9vIGhJmxcwleoqvmkKT3jXlu30Pdd7Xvt3STUArNoCiiXKa but the reality is (and whether you like it or not) except for the OE tyres fitted to Fabia Mk4 cars with 15" wheels, Skoda has chosen to use XL tyres and - unless you change your car's tyres to the non-XL variety in the hope this will make a real improvement comfort-wise - if a Fabia Mk4 has 195/55 R16 91V XL tyres, all that can be done in order to obtain a softer ride quality is to reduce the inflation pressure. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/539692-lower-tyre-pressures-to-improve-ride/#comment-6014748

I'd be very interested to learn from your experience with the rims after you have had them ceramic coated and they are recmounted for the summer months. Also, do you have thoughts on the approximate cost? Thank you @Coral-C

I did a thorough exterior wash after my long road trip last week. It took about 2.5 hours in total ... of which at over 1 hour was just the flipping wheels 😠 My winter wheels with the simpler rims are ready to fit, so I'll get a chance to do a deep clean on the Veritates when they come off the car. They're already booked in for ceramic coating after that, which might make things a little easier next summer.

Ha ha Yep Kinda lazy motor but it never overheats and it pulls a heap all day long of I ask it to

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping someone else may have 8.5 + 235 to confirm or even someone might be running the old D3 A8's (Ronal) already.. I will update this in the future when we make a decision, gut is 235 but lets see - thanks

Hi, no exact idea, but I seem to recall something of the sort was mentioned in this topic

I did not replace any gears , just rubber and 2 o-rings. The feeling is a little better but still not as new.

Hello. I have problem with idle at Skoda Felicia 1.6 GLX. Problem starts about after one year when i replace throttle body. Usually high idle is present when outside temperature is high, about 30 to 35 degree celsius and the motor is cold. Now these days when temperature is drop i still have problem and is even worse. It goes up to 2500 RPM when the motor is cold. Sometimes when cold start is normal when i drive some kilometers it starts again and idle keep holding for about 2000 RPM. Sometimes the motor was cut off during low speed and warm motor, but this fault is gone now. What can cause this idle problem?

Any tiny knock to the radar needs a recalibration. It has to be aligned to within fractions of a degree to the cars centre line. Very much a specialist job.

Match 6Y1959801A and SK240D4DLS both exactly and entirely. Will only come from a facelift mk1 Fabia, LHD, with 4 electric windows. A 2003 Fabia would have a part number beginning 6Q instead of 6Y. Different in a few ways and not compatible.

Hm, that's interesting. None of the electricians even mentioned that. So would I have to look specifically for 'SK240D4DLS' or just one that comes specifically from a VW group that has 4 electric windows. You had mentioned also the 6Y1959801A code (instead of 6Y2959801). I have found one but it was from a 2003 Fabia so I thought it wouldn't match since it's pre-lift. Is '29...' the wrong model to look for then?

I see no reason why you can’t cut a hole around the cover, and keep it a tight fit. It’ll be difficult to measure, but should work a treat. It’ll be next week now - I can’t be bothered to lift the car up until I have the clips to refit the tie rod boots, which are coming from Cz. The Powerflex items are brilliant quality - all their stuff is. The pads are made of their black polyurethane - it took me several attempts to cut the flange off. Extremely high quality stuff. If you’re able to, please order from these guys - I don’t know Adeel personally, but he’s a small business that does an absolutely outstanding job with communication and shipping.

Yep ! Rain-X would make it worse. You're right about laminated screen being a little softer than toughened glass, but that means laminated is easier to buff. Everything has some element of risk though - choice is yours !

I believe that the tint in a front windscreen only extends for around 4 inches from the top, not across all the glass. the tint is done by colouring the polyvinyl butyral "meat" in the glass sandwich which is extremely unlikely to degrade and migrate across the glass. No, the cratering I'm talking about is caused by impact damage of fine dust particles against relatively soft laminated glass over time. I had a toughened glass screen in my 1965 Rover P5 polished many years ago but the guy would not touch a laminated screen because they are relatively soft and he would not risk any damage. I was rather hoping that something like Rain-X might help but that made it worse......

Well, today was the second wash and a proper one. Plenty of road grime and brake dust from our recent 800 miles round trip to Southern England. Honestly, while the Veritate 19" rims are elegant, they are amongst the worst wheel design I have ever experienced for cleaning. If not the worst. My toothbrushes, did I just say that, were only marginally helpful. I threw everything at these rims: microfibre cloth, several soft brushes, five different variations of Wheel Woolies and of course the adapted toothbrushes. What a pain these rims are with their intricate design and that evil gutter running around the barrel. It makes me yearn for a 1990s plastic wheel trim which, if scuffed, cost peanuts to replace rather than £90, and a day with the alloy rim repair shop. That's progress! Thankfully this will be the last time I will need to clean these rims on the car because next Wednesday is Crystal 17" winter rims day. Hurrah. The Veritates will then get one wash and protection before being stored on the rack in our garage until next April. The car will look dowdy but washing the rims should be easier and that seems like a fair trade! If anyone has any advice then please speak up. There must be an easier way to wash and clean these rims because I cannot believe owners are prepared to spend so much time as I have today. Waiting....more in hope than expectation 😥

Welcome to the forum. Does the red indicator on the fob light when you press a button? Test the batteries and check that any protective film/sticker on the cell has been removed.

If the front radar sensor or its mounts have been damaged or displaced, specialist recalibration is required after any damage is repaired.

New member, I have Karoq 2.0 TSI Black edition on order. Hoping to use the forum resource to help me get to grips with my first Skoda.