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Hi New member here. Drive a 26 plate Octavia 1.5 TSI 116 horsepower

We'd hoped to see the Battle of Britain Memorial flight today but Coningsby was all closed up (they might be staying in Duxford?) so we took a ride to Waddington and arrived just in time for their return! 1460650~4.mp4 1460707~3.mp4

The ECU might of been replaced or more likely removed and opened to be remapped as early on it could not be done via the OBD port.

Thanks for the tip. I have various good quality SD cards but they are all micro ones that I use with an adaptor, it seems to have been ok for maps updates, but as this is crucial I am going to buy a new full size San Disk one from Amazon. I am the same thinking about it, 99% of the time I use Carplay and the steering wheel controls so I dont think I will notice it too much hopefully!

This is the Octavia Mk 4 forum, you need to contact a mod and ask them to move this to the correct forum

Hi everyone, I would like to share my current diagnostic findings regarding a DSG7 (DQ200) issue on my Octavia and get some community feedback before I proceed with the repair. Vehicle & Transmission Details: Model: Škoda Octavia Combi (2014) Engine: 1.4 TSI (103 kW / 140 hp) Transmission: 7-Speed DSG (DQ200-MQB / 0CW) TCU Hardware: 0AM927769K (H43) TCU Software: 0CW300047E (v5260) Symptoms: On a cold start, odd gears (1, 3, 5, 7) are missing completely. The car only drives in even gears (2, 4, 6) and Reverse. After driving for about 10–15 minutes (once things warm up and the pump runs constantly) and restarting the engine, full gear functionality returns, but the fault codes remain stored in the module. OBDeleven Scan Fault Codes: P284F00: Shift Fork "A" Unrequested Movement P283C00: Shift Fork "B" Position Sensor Circuit Live Data Diagnostics (Ignition ON, Engine OFF): Hydraulic Pressure (Pressure supply, act. press.): Started at around 22 bar and rapidly dropped down to below 3 bar (eventually hitting nearly 0 bar within minutes). Normal operating pressure should be 42–60 bar. Clutch Wear Check (Point 3 - Point 0): Clutch 1 (K1): $22.9 mm - 7.5 mm = 15.4 mm Clutch 2 (K2): $23.5 mm - 11.3 mm = 12.2 mm Conclusion & Plan: The clutches appear to be in very healthy condition with plenty of remaining life. The issue is clearly a severe loss of hydraulic pressure caused by a cracked pressure accumulator housing on the mechatronics unit. My plan is to remove the mechatronics unit (leaving the gearbox in place) and install a reinforced repair kit (such as Kinergo steel adapter kit) along with fresh hydraulic fluid (VW G 004 000) and new seals. Questions for the forum: Does this diagnostic data 100% confirm a cracked accumulator housing as the sole root cause? Has anyone performed this specific repair with a reinforced kit on the 0CW / MQB platform? Is there anything else I should inspect or replace (e.g. shift fork bearings) while the mechatronics unit is off? Thanks in advance for your insights!

You may have put fuses back in correct place and the steering should come back after a drive. Quite normal after battery change you get a few warning symbols Turn full left and full right and take it for a short drive and steering light should go off. When you checked the wipers was the bonnet open. Skoda in there wisdom disable wipers if bonnet is open for some reason. Caught me out before. Alasdair

I really like mine. I pretty much only use Android Auto so don't miss the physical buttons. Just make sure you use a good SD card. Pretty sure mine was a fake and didn't have the capacity it claimed so the installation files weren't actually on it.

Scratched clean. After the service and supposed body inspection. Best hand it over clean and with a note inside Do not wash, and tell the service desk at handover and be sure it is written in the tag put on the keys.

yes it does feel like the bracket is loose, the bottom part of the plastic feels bent and seeing from videos online it doesnt look like its meant to be 😅

Thanks. I really shouldn't look on ebay. Found a screen unit with a tiny scratch at an absolute bargain price.... so it looks like I'm going ahead with this after all!

Hello all, Does anybody tried to use the new Osram Night Breaker LED Speed H4 bulb in the Skoda Fabia MK3? Best regards.

My sons ecu was loose due to the plastic bracket being broken. If you feed a couple of long cable ties behind the bracket and then secure the ECU in place it works perfectly. You may have to join the cable ties to get the length required. Alasdair

Wash and vac, bring it on

hi everyone,i have MK3 SKODA OCTAVIA 2014 1.6 DIESEL ,recently i changed battery and after came message on screen ,wipers not working,steering wheel not working,so i looked at fuses inside car under glove box,and one fuse i didnt put in rightplace,now came message i need to go to workshop....?i can upload picture

UPDATE! I think i have found what was causing the rattle, or rather I hope i have, it seems the ECU was out of its socketWhatsApp Video 2026-09-10 at 12.42.46.mp4 This was the noise it makes, its not consistent when it happens but mostly happens when accelerating hard and uphill and sounds like its coming from around the air box what it looked like when it was discovered hopefully put in its socket, and took a picture of the sticker to find out what it is Although there is still some rattle, but the mount itself feels loose and can still move, is that normal or has the mount also come loose? you guys were also spot on with the door loom, just popping the cover off also disconnected the central locking so it was def on its last legs, ive booked into a garage to get it repaired next week

Thanks. That's how I see it, which means the dealer service manager has quoted the wrong service. Which suits me - much of the rest of it will be covered by the MOT and going forwards the car will be on All In. I reckon they changed the brake fluid to 2yrs so it would line up with the EV service - it's included in the 2yr service for an EV to help justify the cost as there's pretty well nothing else to do. Still feels like a scam - I've asked indie's about it and they just laugh and say they'll check it, but it won't need changing.

Hi everyone, I'm Admir, joining from Belgium. I've been browsing the forum for a while and decided to finally create an account. I enjoy working on my own car and troubleshooting issues step by step, so I'm looking forward to learning from the community and sharing experiences. See you around the threads!

Hi everyone, I have a 2021 Skoda Kamiq and I'm looking for the correct firmware update path to fix some CarPlay connection issues. I've read that due to my older hardware, I might need an intermediate update before jumping to the latest version. Here are my system details: - Device part number: 654035869D - Hardware: 040 - Software: 1310 - SW Train: MEN3_EU_SK370_P0393L Could someone (maybe @pab567 ?) please share the correct download link(s) for the update path I need? I have attached screenshots of my system info. Thank you very much!

Honestly, I chose Graphite Grey because I thought it looks elegant on the Superb. It's L&K, a Combi / Estate so I didn't think anything bold would work for me. Those colours are better for the Sportline trim IMHO. Black is hard work to keep clean and we live in the Scottish Borders where mud, sheep and winter salt abound. Right now is potato harvest time so there seem like hundreds of tractors pulling trailers full of spuds! And each tractor spreads a portion of each field along the country roads. Black? No way! So grey it is. I am rather hoping to be semi-invisible, a bit like a Klingon cloaking device in Star Trek. Hardly noticed, not stolen to order. A refreshingly different ownership experience to our Velar with its retrofitted Ghost 2 immobiliser after a neighbour lost her Range Rover from her driveway. Every time we started the Velar up we had to enter the special code on the flappy paddles before engaging Drive. Forget and the engine would cut out, followed by what seemed like an elaborate reset process. The number of times we would forget to enter the code after filling up, or waiting in the queue for the cross-Channel ferry. Or we would receive a call from the franchise dealership asking for the code which we had forgotten to share with them. Mental load. Sometimes you don't realise how you gradually stack one layer on top of the next. Best wishes.

Hi Just bought a Fabia MK2 2008 with the BZG 1,2 liter 3 cylinder engine. I notice the oilconsumption is high. Its only done 120000 km and in good shape in general. i Read 0,5 liter / 1000 km is normal. Not sure if mine is more, still testing. Few questions 1 The oilstick has a marked area where the oil should be between min and max. Anyone have any idea how much "oil" it is between min and max? Feels like 0,5 liter at least. 2 Do you always test engine at normal running temp or cold? 3 If the consumption is higher then 0,5/1000 km, any idea what it could be on a low milage car like mine? Maybe do a compression test to check the piston rings and valves will give a somewhat story but was thinking if there is a classing problem with them? 4 My catalysator is smoked. Getting the 0420 error meaning cat efficiancy is too low. Also a crack on the manifold so need to change. I suspect someone has overfilled the engine maybe and damage the cat. Is this a common failure on a 1.2 liter engine? Incl the crack on the manifold?. I assume no idea to change until i figure out if the engine consume more then whats recommended Thanks guys

Firmware 0334 ist Last one for this HW

^^^ Perfect. Fixed Regime chart not accurate in all. But as far as Extended Scope the idea is @ first 3 years then each 2 years. As Brake Fluid used to be, but now they say each 2 years. Not all DSG are at 40,000 miles. Cambelts also changed advice.

I did upgrade my Superb this summer. I have no regrets. I made some mistakes so it got a lot more expensive than i tought but it was worth it for me.

For anyone that comes across this with a slightly newer model, I just followed these steps and fixed the heater element for the seat base on my 2016 Yeti and it all went smoothly. Some (minor) points to note : 1) The seat is heavy and bulky but definitely easier to get to everything if you take it right out. 2) I couldn't get to the spline nut behind the seat belt stalk to remove the seat-back but I found just removing the two lower ones (one each side) I could rock the base forward to create a gap and remove the old element and pass the new one's cable etc through easily enough. 3) The height adjustment lever seemed to have a little clip on the inside face that needed to be pressed in and then it slid off easily. 4) The rear-most connector in the floor under the seat (the small black one) was not at all clear how it came apart - keep fiddling and you will work it out! 5) Pressing the seat cover retainers into the C-clip was easy and didn't require helping hand. It took me two hours including tea breaks and occasional cursing - now I have a warm rear end after putting this job off for more than two years!