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I think you mean 310mm/312mm rather than 300mm. The 288mm front brakes use separate brake caliper carriers, whereas the smaller 256mm front brakes use brake caliper carriers that are built into the steering knuckle (aka the wheelbearing housing). Therefore, when upgrading from 256mm to 288mm front brake, the steering knuckle needs to be changed...as well as the front brake discs, front brake calipers, and front brake caliper carriers. The Fabia MK2 models that come with the 288mm front brakes as as standard appear to be the models that have at least 105PS. So if a 1.2TSI, 1.9TDI, 1.6TDI, etc. has less than 105PS it's fitted with the smaller 256mm front brakes. This information might help you to source the parts needed for a 288mm front brake upgrade from a suitable donor car. The OEM part numbers can be obtained from a Fabia MK2 parts diagram, such as LLLPARTS. When you get to lllparts.co.uk type in lllparts.co.uk/catalogs manually...if you are having problems getting to the Skoda parts diagrams...and you might have to sometimes refresh the page manually because of the anti-robot software lllparts uses. Notice below, that the front brake pads for the 288mm front brake discs are available with and without a wear indicator...so it's easy to match what the car currently has. Fabia Mk2 parts diagram (288mm front brakes) (TRW brake system) 1 6Q0615123 Brake caliper housing left 1 6Q0615124 Brake caliper housing right 2 6Q0615125 brake carrier with pad retaining pin left 2 6Q0615126 brake carrier with pad retaining pin right 8 1J0615301R Brake disc (vented) D >> - 24.05.2009 288x25mm 5/100 8 6R0615301A Brake disc (vented) D - 25.05.2009>> 288x25mm 5/100 12 6Q0698151A 1 set of brake pads for disk brake 1LN+9U0 12 6Q0698151C 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake 1LN+9U1

Living in Ireland I just took delivery of my Enyaq RS been away from Skoda for a few years (previous cars 2 x Superb's and 1 Kodiaq). Have to say initial thoughts is I love the car, I know the software has got a lot of grief on-line but I am coming from a Volvo Ultimate XC60 PHEV and boy that has awful software (I hope I don't live to regret that statement). I have to admit to feeling anxious regarding range on a trip but I am waiting on my Powerpass card and hopefully between that and the navigation aid I should be fine in my upcoming trip to London for Christmas.

Mine (Elroq 60) was manufactured week 35, ready for delivery week 40 (actually had it rushed a bit to very end of week 39). VIN seems to be allocated very late in the process of Sales systems. Could it be due ensuring a customer contract is updated with defacto car for delivery (in case something happends in assembly or transportation ? Another note. I.e. Norway has VAT incentives running to the end of the year, which might put some priority to this market over others right now - sales are boosted these last months, and importeurs are trying their best to keep up.

As I changed the brakes of my VRS 288 to 300mm, what do I need to put these discs and calipers on our 1.2/12v HTP?

Good thread — every country you drive through has its own little rules to sort before you go, lights being one of them. One more worth adding for anyone whose route reaches Romania: since 1 October 2026 the Romanian rovinieta is fully electronic. No sticker for the windscreen anymore, it is tied to your registration plate and checked by cameras, so buy it on etoll.ro before you drive. The fine for driving without a valid one is no longer a fixed sum either, under art. 18 para. (2) of Law no. 226/2023 it is between 2x and 4x the 12 month tariff for the vehicle category. The Fetești–Cernavodă bridge crossing is free both ways now. I contribute to a free Romanian vignette validity checker, and you can check a car's current validity free here: https://verificarerovinieta.com/

Some damp patches on the driveway below the engine, but in this weather it's hard to tell what they are. I have moved the car slightly and will check again later.

no signs of this at all.

I would imagine that J519 is the LIN master, and the window motors both slaves, but not sure. On earlier versions driver's side motor was the LIN master, passenger side (and rears where fitted) are slaves and there was no data connection to J519.

@Ormy1at a guess, fuse 18 will cover mirror heating, adjustment or both. Nothing to do with the windows as far as I know. Separate wiring connects each motor's LIN connection to J519 (most of the way at least), so I would be surprised if a fault in that would affect both sides.

Just remember to tell your insurance company about mods otherwise you wont be covered. Most are ok as long as they arent power gains, then some get a bit funny. It depends how old you are.

Pete, I've had a quick look at the schemes you sent me for the Windows and they are very good and quite easy to understand. One quick Question thou. If fuse SB18 was blown or there was a broken wire to J519 (Onboard supply Control Unit) that connects to the LIN bus, would I notice any other issues with the car or is this unit only associated with the windows. @Alasdair1 - Thanks for the Info its really helpful. Working my way thru the schemes to eliminate anything that's not common to both windows.

Glad it was simple and you dont have to rely on bus now. Alasdair

Hi mate is there a chance you still have the correct software for the camera I have same issue but the seller doesn't give a crap about me and I don't know what to. I contacted him multiple times but nothing since. Thanks for response

UPDATE: It WAS the batteries! Initially bought 2x NEW Energiser Lithium CR2025s - inserted - no joy. Swapped for 2x Duracell CR2032 (slightly thicker, still fits) - Full Keyfob ops restored! Phew! (and don't buy Energiser batteries...)

Cheers CFB.

Had a look at https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/fabia/info/fusebox/2010#anchorfusebox4 and it seems that fuse 51 (drivers side plus rear left)and fuse 52 (passenger side plus rear right) are for door control unit so I assume they do windows. Alasdair

I have a Viofo 229pro. Excellent video quality, easy set up, will plug into the usb port on the mirror and many useful features.

There isn't a polish or film that reliably "masks" that kind of cratering. Once the outer surface is chewed up, light scatter in low sun is a glass problem, not a wipe or coating problem, so replacement is the real fix. On the MOT side it is worth taking seriously. Manual section 3.2 fails damage in Zone A over 10 mm, or elsewhere in the swept area over 40 mm, when it significantly affects the driver's view. Zone A is the 290 mm strip centred on the steering wheel inside the wipe pattern. Dense pitting that makes you almost stop in bright sunlight is judged on that "significantly affects the view" test, even if no single crater is 10 mm. Excessive scratching that hurts swept-area visibility can also go Major or Dangerous under 3.2 (c). For the vRS electronics: a proper ADAS-compatible screen for your VIN (right camera bracket, rain sensor, heating options per the PR codes) plus camera calibration after fit is what keeps Front Assist / Lane Assist working. Ask the glass fitter in writing that they will (1) supply glass matched to your options, (2) calibrate the forward camera with a suitable tool, and (3) confirm any radar alignment if your bumper pack needs it. That is the answer to the insurance "connectivity" worry, more than the brand of glass. If you want a second opinion before you book it, ask an MOT tester to sit in the driver's seat in similar sun and say whether they would class the view as significantly affected under 3.2.

With this variant of window motor, none of the other door functions use or even connect to it. Interesting that passenger window doesn't even work from its own switch. Fuse 11 isn't relevant for facelift mk2 windows; not sure which numbers the main window module fuses are, maybe not the same as mk1.

C pillar and top plastic edge of side trim which you would need to remove to install the torch holder anyway. C pillar clips on and trim is 4 Torx screws. It can be a little fiddly to replace but all very doable. The workshop manual describes clearly how to dismantle. I can send you the relevant pages if you don’t have.

Excellent! Does the entire panel has to come off, or it can be only the c pilar trim? While not afraid of dismantling, I am a bit overrun with things and tend not to open up works I need to leave half-way, especially on the family wagon ... 🤪☠️

We are going offtopic, but just to say I do have a UK address through my forwarder to I have workarounds for shipping and delivery when "normal" is complicated. Otherwise Brexit would have seriously dented (not killed, mind you!) my unstoppable (masochistic perhaps!) passion for Land Rovers and other associated British machinery! 😁 RogueWagon let me rummage in the garage and I'll get back to you via PM, thanks! 😉

Finally managed to find time to change the oil! Now running Pakelo Krypton Racing in 0W40 let's see how it manages the winter. The previous oil was Fuchs Titan GT1 in 5W40 which after 14 months and 8,750km came out pretty darkish, so good it was to replace. Car had little urban use, most hwy and a couple of them long hauls on a spirited manner 🫢 I also put already the winters, it is a wee early but I have time now, surely none later 🫣 Front pads have 1/3 left, so to keep in mind. Haldex is neglected and to do, but I lost the package with the bolts and seals so might reorder and if I ever find them ... is a consumable after all. I got a but of a worry as I found oily "wettish" in the area of where the dipstick is, but not sure if it comes from somewhere up, or where can it leak? The bottom engine cover is dry clean, the stuff goes towards the lower arm and seeps along the undercarriage. As far as I could see, the top of the engine (camshaft cover) seems dry. Any ideas at what to look at? The dipstick really? (never happened to me in like over twenty years of motoring).

Hi SkOmk4, Speaking to them yesterday when I went to pick the car up they said that they'll need the car for 2 maybe 3 days as its a large update. The workshop manager explained its an update that goes through all of the cars ECU's and it can take up to 3 days. I checked on the car yesterday and the software version currently installed on mine is 2768. I know logically when there's an update its for the better but coming from many years of owning land rovers the main consensus there is 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' which mainly (also) goes for updates (and yes, I know firsthand you can't compare any LR to anything else reliability-wise but I love the wife's Octavia just as much). Honestly I'm pretty happy with the infotainment especially reading up on the pre-facelift issues. I had this issue with the screen come up 3-4, maybe 5 times over the past year and they all occured during summer where the car's interior can reach extreme temperatures so didn't really worry me as it went away after you switched tha car off and on again. I booked it in yesterday for next month to get the update and see if that fixes it (although as said above, very rare) The weirdest thing I find in the Octavia is that when my wife and I are both in the car somehow both our phones are connected to the car. No matter which one rings, it goes straight to the car speakers so we need to remember to disconnect one everytime. Apologies for the long post and thank you very much for the info.

So long as you declare as gift and under €30 it should be free of any import duty or tax. Would just be postage costs.