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Hi Everyone, I'm new here so please forgive a topic which may have been done to death. My background is field service engineering, so I am used to finding obscure problems and repairing them without the benefit of all the spare parts! The rear screen wiper on our Mk2 Scout became intermittent and then stopped all together a while back, and I think I've round the solution! In this case though its not obscure at all - it's a very common issue with any system where a printed circuit has solid connections to the outside world, especially where these connections are the mechanical anchors for the board. The rear screen wiper drive assembly contains a small PCB, with connections to a 4 pin connector (earth, +12, and two control pins). Internally, here are two connections to the motor which are made via soldered pins within the assembly - and that's the problem. In my Skoda Scout, the soldered joints on these connections were "dry" where either due to poor soldering at manufacture or vibration induced fatigue failure of the solder, the joint looses integrity. It's simple to fix if you're handy with a small soldering iron - and a breeze if you have prior experience as a hobbyist in electronics. Getting to the assembly inside the rear door is the hardest part - popping the cover off - but I'll leave that for you to look up how to do this on this site and or any number of others! I removed the whole drive assembly - unplug the cable, take off wiper arm, and remove three 10mm head bolts, but if you're a contortionist you might be able to do the job without assembly removal. You will see a small rectangular cover (about 35mm X 25mm) on the front (/back?!) face of the assembly near the connector - use a fingernail to get it off, a screwdriver is not required. You'll see the PCB as in the attached picture (sorry about focus but its good enough!). I have arrow-ed the two offending connections. If you use a decent magnifying glass youll see that the solder around one or both the pins looks like its cracked and crumbly - that's classic "dry joint" appearance! Ideally, remove the existing solder (with solder wick or a "solder sucker") and then carefully re-solder those two joints. If you can't remove the existing solder, though, just apply a minimum amount of quality resin-cored (electronics) solder and apply enough heat to allow the solder to flow around the pins. Inspect the joins to make sure the surface is nice and shiny with no cracks. Incidentally, the joints on that board look too shiny to be ROHS compliant non-Lead solder, so you might find old school lead-tin solder if you have any, will be easier. Clip the cover back on, reconnect the cable and give it a test - in my car (2l Diesel Scout) the engine has to be running for the rear wiper to work (that had me tricked for a while! (-: ) Respond with any comments or questions! As a newbie, I welcome constructive input!

Just an update. Got the engine running after 1 hour of looking after a electrical fault. One of the fuses where bad. Changed it and the engine started. Then the fuse broke again. The engine ran only on 2 cyl, changed a damaged coil. Changed the fuse. Engine started and is running good. Tested the car today for a 18mile trip and everything where fine. Guess my mum would be happy now. hahahaha.

If your car has ACC it wont have standard cruise as well. I believe it's one or the other. You will get used to it. It's 'Superb' 🙂

Well done indeed Statistically I would say there is one case of ECU failure for every ten thousand times a mechanic pronounces "it must be the ECU" which translates to "I cant find whats wrong, I dont know what I am doing, just take your car away and get out of my hair"

Ended up buying the gates powergrip water pump kit for £95

the budget isnt neceserilly £15-16k, this is just the one that came up from my local dealer. I have been looking up to around £21-22k for the perfect model, but for that i would want as close to mint as i can get outside and at least a couple of the options i desire inside. i have no issue going for a cheaper 230/245, provided it looks well looked after and drives nice and has a few toys on it. the newer ones just provide a bit more assurance with warranty etc

Hmmm.......... The back looks exactly the same...? At the front, has the grill been widened a little bit like <llllllll> ?? I don't think that is going to massively de-value mine....

Bought it at auction thanks mate... I called Skoda this morning and managed to get It from them Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Hey ! Dont forget though the 272 doesn't have flaps !!! Just in case... Well.. You know ... Well I think it's an important point that maybe hasn't been mentioned in a while !

As the link says these pics are guesstimates based on the recent photos of camouflaged cars. Still not due out until mid-2021 (so MY22).

G'day chums 😀 Took ownership of the below RS230 this week! Never pictured myself driving a Skoda of all things when I started the search for a fun manual wagon, but here we are. After some thought I've decided that Ramius is the perfect name for him, as- I've just defected from the French car family, the "battleship grey", and the proper pronunciation of "Škoda" reminds me of Sean Connery I like to tinker so have already ordered a dogbone mount to tone down the bloody wheel hop....will look into VCDS next!

There's no denying it is a controversial issue and for many, many years I always put new tyres on the rear for safety ... A blow out on the rear, or even a loss of traction, is a lot more serious than on the front.... This however was alway on a rear wheel drive car... Now that the cars I've been driving for years have all been front wheel drive I don't feel the arguement is quite as clear cut, yes the safety part is still there, as all the driving power is now going through the front wheels and they surely require as much grip as possible as well as the fact that 70% of your braking goes onto the front wheels so the new tyres will also stop you quicker too....m

In theory it might be so but I've done these things from time to time and usually bad things happen ONLY in wintertime when there's snow (probably not the usual case for the forum readers). Usually tyres has good enough grip and I'm not much into very, very expensive premium tyres (not buying cheap ones, though). Actually, this could be true on roads with high speeds. Ok, whatever. I guess that no-one from us is going to convince another one Let's allow other ones to speak

And so can you Shy when i'm in cornwall in September

I had this advisory on my previous car at the 3 year and 4 year MOTs, never changed the shocks and never had the advisory again for the remaining 6 years I owned it. The difference? 3 & 4 year MOTs at a dealer, the rest at an independent - go figure???

The biggest difference between a 2017 230 and 245 is not the 15bhp but the extras you get with the 245. The power difference is something of nothing in reality what you're getting with a 2017 spec 245 over a 230 is the standard fit extras - the heated electric memory seats (these are probably my favourite extra for the extra adjustability of the lumbar support), the VAQ diff, the 19" wheels, the gloss black details, the power fold auto dimming mirrors (though that particular 230 evidently had these optioned), the little touches like the sports dials, front park sensors etc. - if these things aren't of interest to you, a 230 could represent good value next to a 245. The only thing you'll not be able to find on a 2017 car is the virtual dash, as it was only available from some point in 2018. As for your question about the price, that's harder to say - on a PCP deal the headline price of 16k is somewhat meaningless - you need to add up what you're paying monthly, deposit and what the final balloon payment would be. The payments you list out show you putting close to £13,500 into the car, the key figure from there is what is the balloon and do you intend to actually buy the car at the end or not? Personally, I think PCP on a used car is generally a very cost inefficient way to purchase a car - the interest is usually astronomical compared to a personal loan or something if that option is available to you. PCP makes most sense on new cars where 'manufacturer contributions' are lumped in to massage the figures a bit. £1,100 worth of insurance products are only of any use if you want them and are often available cheaper elsewhere - RTI Gap insurance is the only one you list i'd be particularly interested in and i'm sure can be had for far less money. Another thing to bear in mind - the facelift cars started being delivered July/August time in 2017, so if you're not in a rush, the next few months should see a good few 3 year PCP / lease cars being returned to the market.

Bit of a hyperbole reply that one. The light misting is a common advisory (Google it) and doesn’t 100% mean trouble.

probably going to be a longish post so best to make some tea. First "competitive" event for the car since the 2 litre was put in, Always wanted to do one of these top speed events just to see how fast the car can go, event is a standing mile with speeds also taken at the 1/2 mile too. Looking at the logs from 1/4 mile runs i had a realistic idea of speed of 135mph with a hope of maybe touching 140mph. Managed to rope in my mate simon in his 700bhp Focus RS and Richie who had a monte carlo before but now has a 400bhp 335d. Since it was the first time at one of these events i know from experience just to build things up. First run i did was no meth, no hard launch and short shift to 5th and let it run out, hit a crosswind at 100mph as you can see in the video it weaves a little. Running a Vbox sport i had a live gps speed on my phone, looked at the speed and it seen 150mph. 150mph in my little diesel skoda in around 1 mile from a standing start. Couldn't help but have a giggle to myself at that one in the shut down area. Official timing had it at 147mph. Expectations already exceeded! Next run decided to go a slightly harder launch and rev it out abit more, keeping an eye on the gps speed i decided to hit the meth switch to give it a little push to maybe get to 150mph but the light didn't come on! No meth and it went through the timing beams at 149mph! No meth 149mph! All i could think was what on earth have Darkside built here. Had to work out why the meth didn't kick in, knew it had meth as even if the tank was empty the light will still show if the solenoid would still activate and a green light comes on in the car and if the tank is empty another light comes on to show its low and i had just filled it when we arrived. First thing to check was the fuses, all ok and it was 100% working the night before as i had a run in with a golf r in mexico. The system is activated via boost so when it reachs a certain boost level it kicks in. Checked the line on the manifold all good, traced it back to the switch and theres no boost line there. it had came off so fitted it back on and cabled tied it in so it couldnt come off again. Went to line up again for another run but it was lunch time so had to wait for afterwards Also as you can see parked outside the guys selling some race fuel got chatting to them and they gave me some stuff to try. Plan was to do as i did in the last run, run the car up get to 5th then when in 5th hit the meth switch, run was good and the car was hauling, hit the brake and looked over at the gps, 160mph, 160mph in a daily driven diesel hatch. Couldn't believe it and got abit excited at that. Went through the beams at 153mph Next run thought i would try and full meth run from start to finish and go for 155mph. Forgot i had the window down slightly so put it up when i was in 3rd but then hit the hardcut for a second before then going into 4th, lost some speed/time but at the 1/2 mile it was 3mph up even with that which shows how much the car was trucking along, got to 154mph on gps still not at the timing beams yet and we get limp mode, brown trouser moment for me as i thought i had broke it, thankfully ryan from darkside was on hand by email most of the day and was keeping in touch with how i was getting on. The car isn't mapped for meth its just an add on which you can turn on or off but i think full throttle for that long was abit much for it, as you can see the IAT's were over 60 degrees C. still went through the beams at 149mph and that wasn't me breaking but it coasting down in limp mode. Fault code reset i made the decision that i was going to do one more run as i need to drive this thing back to scotland over 200 miles and would rather drive it back than tow it back. Decided im not going to do a full meth run but run it till 4th then hit the meth so its on for 4th and 5th all the way through. set off and car was just freight training alone, kept it in again after the timing beams for as long as i dared before hitting the brakes look over and seen 162mph! Timing beams were 155mph! brakes really did get abit hot! @DarksideDevelopments have built me an amazing car, it's hard to describe just how all round this car is. I can drive it 250 miles fire down a runway at 160mph then drive it 250 miles home that isn't loud you can still have a full convo on the motorway and dont have to shout or raise your voice and no smoke. Thats something you'd expect from a top spec audi/bmw/merc diesel not a little diesel skoda ecohatch. And it averaged 51mpg. Through out the day there was loads of people commenting on how quick it was and that they didn't expect it to be putting in those kinds of speeds. Couple of guys also said it was the car of the day for them as with the supercars you'd expect them to be quick but not a little diesel hatchback and they were even more surprised to see it was stripped out or trailered down and i was going to drive it home. Safe to say i love this car, still my first car and its going no where ever.

Picked my 2018 Superb Sportline Estate up a couple of days ago... already love it!

I think you use the same method as Luca3 needed, with the seat heater switches... You gently prise it out with two small screwdrivers, one each side. Better still, try using plastic pry-tools as they will be less likely to damage anything. You might find it is dirty or a bulb is blown but I think they may be LED bulbs and its most likely easier to just swap the whole unit. be sure to get a Skoda one as a VW one will be red lights, Skoda are green.

We had the same issue with the wife's Jan 2018 Karoq SEL last October and Skoda Dealer admitted both key fobs were faulty and new ones were ordered from the factory which took 2 weeks. This was all under warranty and had to go back for 30 minutes to let them code the new fobs to the car and touch wood we have had no problems with the replacement key fobs since then that was 7,000 miles ago. Car is now 30 months old and just over 26,000 miles covered.

You didn’t unwittingly press the ( mute) LH scroll button on the steering wheel ?

Are you referring to a Mk3 or Mk2 Superb?

Thank you both for your replies, I have managed to lift the seat base now. But not as I expected; with a REALLY firm wrench, the whole seat base popped out of two clips (one on each side), but no sign of any hinges or connections of any sort. The whole seat squab came free, and presumably owners can lift it out and leave it at home, or lift it vertically and hold it against the back of the front seats while the backs are folded down and held in place. Very strange. But at least the platform is more or less flat, giving me a load space like the back of a Transit! Amazing.

To quote him "A Purchase You Make With Your Heart Not With Your Head".

Shiney new bits..................................nice. Any news on the boost cut issue, or is that ongoing Rob?. Christ, that 5 years went by quick.

My high miler was not a PD, its true the belt does a lot more work on that engine. Re the torsion value make sure it is a true zero degrees (very hard to hit) and not the zero indicated when its outside of limits but the engine running like a dog.

Albon gets new race engineer, guy used to run Riccardo at RBR before taking factory role.

DSG7 is even smoother in daily driving than the DSG6 which is not bad at all already. On the other hand DSG7 has its slight quirks in manual mode (harsher gear-changes). Reliability should be just as good as the DSG6, it's based on the "heavy duty" DQ500 after all, of-course the DSG6 is more proven as it's been out for 7 years now but I have no complaints from my DSG7 and I'd pick it again over the DSG6 simply for its extra smoothness and better economy, you'll appreciate the 7th gear on the highway. In fact the short 6th gear of the DSG6 was my only slight complaint when driving the DSG6. We are of similar size as you guys and with that car seat I mentioned, the front seat would only just clear it for my wife. If we were to switch places though I wasn't fully comfortable for longer trips, same for any passenger any taller than me. There is definitely no farting with the 272 GPF, but i think if you're too keen on them you can get them back with a resonator delete (not my cup of tea) or upgraded exhaust, the remap might also play a role there, some introduce the up-shift farting on purpose. It's not something your catalyst enjoys though on the long term, just sayin...

It's VAG-wide unfortunately! There are many YouTube videos showing how to disconnect it on Golf GTIs, SEAT Cupras etc. As I've said before, my first car was a 2 1/4 litre Vauxhall Velox with two silencers which was too quiet for me, so I replaced the rear silencer box with a flared out copper pipe! I've grown up since then though

DM Keith didn't get back to me on Monday, so I phoned them this morning. The girl on the service department asked for the registration and after checking she told me that there are no recalls outstanding on my car. The question is....do I believe her? After all she's working for Skoda!!!!

Thanks Phil-E, there are no such stickers so nothing has been done and I've had this car since it was 11 moths old. I'm supposed to be getting a call from the dealer in the morning to sort this out. I'll keep you informed of the outcome. Forgot to post this on Sunday (2 days ago)

Any chance you could video this? 😁

So just to bring this topic full circle.... I dropped the car off at a local Indy in Reading about an hour ago to have them replace the pads. I don't have time at the moment to do them myself. I asked them to check if they needed doing as i was not confident in the statement from the dealer. I just got a call from the Indy... pads are only 50% worn and do not need replacing. 50% over 20,000 miles is reasonable and not unexpected but 85% as sliver said would have indicated erratic driving or a fault which isn't the case. So on the back of this I will collect me car and then go round to skoda and provide them with some feedback.

Grrr I will be in Cornwall lol !

It seems that when they build Skoda's these days there are a limited supply of them. Might get a carbon fibre cover to annoy those that have the felt cover.

You/I can find out via erWin (not poss via VCDS etc. to the best of my knowledge). PM me to discuss. You could do it yourself if you register etc and pay 7 Euros plus tax for an hour's access. "Car data" is what you look for/download. Go in via the 'vehicle-specific data' tab here https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

At first I thought it is a Chinese version of Karoq :D My eyes are bleeding

That's a lot prettier. And you can see the fluid level now. It needed a little modification to fit, but looks much better. Also.. 5 years ago! Really need to get this car on the road.

Hi, having now found out that the remote is continually scanning and needs a battery change annually. I found it best to leave the remote in my pocket and not to use it for unlocking and locking, and instead unlock and lock doors using my finger on the door handles. Forgive me if i appear to be teaching you to suck eggs: to open the door without the key, grasp the front door handle once to open just one door and release and grasp again to open all doors. To lock lay your finger over the sensor in the door handle, hold your finger there slightly linger if you want to close the windows automatically. Regards ....

He said as useful as a Toc H Lamp, meaning that they are crap 😛 Toc H Lamp...

In most of Europe (including the UK) daylight running lights (DRLs) are only required at the front of a car. These are lit as soon as you start the engine, unless you choose parking lights or headlights instead (which also light up your rear lights). In Scandinavia, DRLs also light the rear lights, and it is possible to reprogram your lights as Scandinavian DRLs should you wish. Chris

I would guess that car has also been tuned - highly likely given the aftermarket air intake. Worth keeping an eye on this one although bear in mind that you may need a new engine... You're looking at £18k+ for a standard 280 so this could be a bargain... But be careful!

@newbie69 and for all AWD Superb 3 owners: I've just released the tutorial to change the Haldex oil on your own: Enjoy! 😎😉

Had a Skoda meet up last weekend. Was a great turnout n great weather. I think for the first time the Superbs dominated, with only 2 Octavias present. We also had Kodiaqs, Fabias, a Scala and a Yeti. I'm pleased with the way Gandalf looks now. 🙂

If your front brake pads are 85% worn after 20,000 miles then either you're really hard on the brakes or there is a fault somewhere.

Agree with the lane assist comments. Particularly dangerous when overtaking cyclists. Just done a trip today from Northumberland back to York in my 1.0 SE L DSG and averaged 60.1mpg!

And some quick snaps with a friend's Passat.