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I would not spend over £600 a month on a car. Mine costs me just over £200 a month and I wont use nearly £400 a month on fuel. Tesla are overpriced and very underwhelming vehicles. Also ev cars cause more damage to the planet than people realise. The amount of natural resources that are needed purely to make the batteries needed. Also the electricity to actually charge the batteries is not free. Most come from coal powered stations and the small percentage from renewable energy sources. Suddenly these zero emission cars become quite high emissions in the making and maintening.

The biggest problem dealer techs face is normally after 3-4yrs they don’t see the car again. So issues like this very rarely appear in the workshop as the vehicles are too new in most cases to make them have to think about it. They are in most ways fine enough at their job, but just out of practice in diagnostics. Ive also seen a failed lumber support bag in a Mercedes seat or even the door handle Failing cause the engine to cut out due to working off the vacuum system, and yet seem completely unrelated. So I never rule anything out. ign may not come on as a safety because the box thinks it’s in gear For instance,

Totally agree although living in the country it's more often when I go past slurry spreading that I need a quick dive for the recirc. If you can't get recirc on fast enough there is no point as all you do by pressing too late is recirculate the stink. Why touch screens and menus upon menus are an unsafe for use when undertaking a complex safety critical task like driving is pretty much page one of any introductory ergonomics text but they are big cost saving that can be disguised as technological progress.

The USB socket in front of the gear lever on my 2019 SE-L definitely turns off after a while when the car is locked. If I leave my iPod connected then it gradually discharges over the course of a few days so the USB socket cannot be charging it up.

To me enjoying driving isn't about the car being sporty, having the best handling, the fastest, dropped within an inch of its life so it can corner 5mph faster etc etc. I've had more fun in cars that don't perhaps handle like a sports car. But I find in cars with normal suspension and tyres etc it's more fun to chuck them around without crashing and banging around or worrying about scraping the belly on bumps etc.

**Update** All sensors and abs control module were fine, it was the rear wheel bearing magnetic ring that was broken. I fitted a new wheel bearing and all dash light are out👍👍

55000 might seem low for a clutch needing replaced but you have no idea how the owners before you drove the car. Take the car back to the garage who carried out the repair and speak to them, did you tell them it was the clutch or did they diagnose a faulty clutch?. You have no case against Skoda for a clutch, mileage means nothing when It comes to clutches and going by the price of the car, it’s out of warranty. There’s a good video on YouTube, from a guy called Diagnose Dan, who strips down a polo dsg gear box with the 1.4. The fault might be the gear actuator, I’m sure there is a specific way you have to re-set them.

So.......Looking through the forum I have seen that water retention in doors has been a Skoda issue for years, at least sine 2002 in Fabias. I just bought my Kamiq and I am very impressed with it. I traded in my Volvo which I had for 11 years. So I have kinda come to terms with some of the modern stuuf in my new car, my cruise control now has a distance setting on in ( seems dangerous at times, I'll post another topic for that) and lane assist, but I am amazed about the fact that 1 L petrol engine outguns my former Volvo 1.6 diesel by 6PS. But to the point. I washed my car (as you do because it's new) and soon after doing so, opened the door and noticed a run of water come from one single point about a quarter way along the door from the hinge end, Thought nothing of it. Then noticed it happens after rain,. Then not having driven for a few wet days, was showing a friend and again, on opening both fron doors, the pouring of water happened. I then found this forum which suggested it's a historic issue. The day after I showed my friend I opened the door again. There had been no rain. And more water came out. I pulled the rubber seal off its anchors under the fron doors, I pushed up the floating lugs that the seal clips on and opened a floodgate. I didn't catch or measure the water but it was a lot. My big concern is what happens in a wet and cold winter? I really don't want my car doors becoming ice boxes. I do intend to discuss this with my dealer soon. In the meantime, with this issue being long standing in Skoda, has anyone had any issues with rooting door sills or water damage inb doors? It seems it's acroos the Skoda range. Some owners are quiet casual about it the issue but I fall in the concerned category. This is my new car and I want some years out of it. I can manage all the IT issues it's thrown up because I can deactivate things I don't want to use, but the water in the doors issue...Not happy about it at all. If I need to 'Bleed" my doors every couple of weeks I will. I do love this car.

vRS finally let me down tonight after 13 years of ownership.😩 Everything lit up as usual, but turned the key and nowt. Nearly dark, no torch, so thought, sod it, ring my breakdown provider GEM. 35 mins of pondering if it could be either the starter motor or the factory fir immobiiser perhaps before the man turned up. After a bit of ferkling, he decided to hit the starter motor with a hammer, full JC style.....and it fired up immediately.😎 Going to cost me this week, but hey ho, mustn't grumble after all these years of superb service from the black terrier. Still love it.

Personally I don't bother. We have been going to France for the last 10 years to see French friends and my lights on dip are about central in the road. There does not seem to be the bias on headlamps as there used to be. I set the headlights on the lower setting and in the years I have been going I have not been flashed by French or German drivers. The French friends don't bother either when they visit England. I know that on some models there is a lever to move across the re-aim the lights but I don't know where it is. The stick on thingys are a guess as to where to stick them on the lens. I have a pair on the travel kit but have not used them.

I learned a new word

There's always the ignore function to remove posters who habitually annoy? Just a thought, in case you weren't aware of the option?

Who buys vehicles these days (answer is around 10%). PCP is the norm and add to that the many cars particularly for those of us who do high annual mileages, the car is a business tool. I get £9K a year car allowance which I will often lose £3,700 in tax as the car benefit is paid through payroll. An EV is now 0% as Benefit in Kind so company could get for me and supply at a very reasonable price....... https://www.parkers.co.uk/car-buying/2019/uk-pricing-for-tesla-model-3-slashed/ "Long Range models will set you back £602 per month via PCP, or £682 per month on a Hire Purchase deal. Performance models start from £590 per month with PCP, or £751 per month with Hire Purchase. Model 3 LR is in a different performance league to any standard Skoda of course so it is comparing Avocados to Turnips and the Tesla range on a single charge is still relatively poor but as the best of EVs it has access to the Tesla Supercharging network. Power at 2 p a mile rather than 10p plus a mile and not further damaging the planet is a big draw to some of us.

Welcome to the forum. No need to take to a dealers and put yourself out, get Skoda Assist to come to you.

Well it had to be good for something - it was certainly no good for football .......

Code 01249 is "open circuit/short to positive" or "short to ground" on #1 injector. Test wiring then if nothing found replace the injector. The stuttering you described might be fuel starvation related from #1 injector faulty.

Any error codes stored after the last test drive?

That's a lot of money to pay, so everything is paid by warranty?

My dad has the gauge set which I used last night to check the new ones. They were all 0.8 i think if I remember correctly. Haven't checked the old ones i have little history. So no idea how long they've been in. Engine is only 15k miles old though, so potentially, they're the first set

All done, took my time and followed the guide. No issues at all. What do we think of the old ones? Left to right as you look at the engine

Vettel spins on lap 1 and blames his team tactics and watches his young number one Ferrari team mate finish 4th. Forecast for Barcelona next Sunday 30C so should suit RBR again if the Merc continue with tyre management.

Max in 2nd place in the championship. Vettel flying along in 13th place.

Hi Sam, welcome to the forum - if your car is a 66 plate shouldn't that be a 150 in your profile - or is it just a missing decimal point? A tip for newbies driving an auto - remove your left shoe for the first couple of times to remind yourself not to stamp on the 'clutch pedal' with your left foot when going for a gear-change. I think you will really like the 1.4, pulls like a train, even from pretty low revs - although I wouldn't say no to a 245 either.

Picked her up this morning. I’ve only ever driven an auto about 15 years ago as a courtesy car for a few days so not having a clutch pedal is going to take some getting used to!

docc, to get a reality check on Kodiaq prices, try a few broker websites such as DriveTheDeal, Carfile etc, then see if your local dealer will match or get close

Check the pins for corrosion on the multi plug going into the Dsg.

As above, they'll fit. There was a lot of press nonsense back when the first 245 came out about needing 19s for the bigger brakes but it was only actually the rear discs that were any different and they're not big enough to demand 19s that's for sure. Just bear in mind the 19s were part of the '245' package when it was released, so future buyers may expect to see them, if you have room & funds to keep them stored.

They’ll fit.

In my experience, the plastic insulation cracks, letting in atmospheric moisture and oxygen. This gradually corrodes the copper strands, turning them into green dust. Once enough corrosion has happened, the wire struggles to conduct enough current to make the solenoid actuate. Sometimes the first symptom is non-start due to it breaking completely, sometimes it goes intermittent for a while first. Clouting it may just help it by overcoming mechanical stiction; reducing the current required to get it to move.

Very good. Hope you enjoy the car. The DSG is super quick. Can change gear (switch between clutches at least) in as little as 8ms. I've heard complaints of hesitation or delay. But honestly I've never noticed any. Must be down to driving style. Drive it properly and anticipate what the box is going to do (you get to learn the shift points, when it will and won't shift down etc) and it's buttery smooth.

Knowlton Church yesterday evening

That's an mib1 card anyway. Simplest solution is here £8 will get you a replacement card posted with the latest maps ready loaded.

Funny you mention this. I also have this on my 1.4 TSI 122 bhp version. I've seen it mentioned a few times from other people too. Most opinions seem to point to the catalytic converter pre-heat that it does from a cold start. During this pre-heat the fuel injection is different and the valve timing is adjusted. You will hear from the exhaust that it sound like there's a hole in the exhaust and a bit raspy. Once it's revved once past this jerk it runs fine and then never jerks again.

It depends on how much you are prepared to do yourself to save a few pennies. A quick and dirty fix, warm up the bumper plastic with hot water or hair dryer and push it out from behind. There will be a few light creases left in the plastic and for around £100 you can then get the paint sorted. Get a replacement lamp off the bay for about £50. Make sure the paint isn’t broken around the lamp area. Or for approx £400, buy a bumper from a dealer and get it painted then swap it yourself. The parking sensors can be transferred over (probs need a tube of bonding mastic to stick the sensors back in). Plus a lamp £50. Check the paint as above. This is not much harder than building flat pack furniture. Or let a body shop sort it, over £500+ depending on what else they find damaged.

Could easily be the starter solenoid wire almost busted, rather than starter motor itself. If so it shouldn't cost you much at all, especially if you can DIY. Super-common fault, vibration makes the wire fatigue and crack just where it comes out of the single-pin connector housing. Certainly worth checking visually or pull-testing 'cos if it is that you'll kick yourself if you change the starter and it still plays up.

I'm an Isle of Man (@ 30 x 9 miles) resident, so the car's lack of range won't be a consideration. There are 3 things that the EV version will be of benefit to me. 1) It's an automatic, so that'll give my ageing left knee an easier time prior to a total knee replacement and Covid has caused the cancellation of elective surgery. 2) It's possible to set the heater and/or seats to come on whilst charging the car, so toasty warm (and safer) in the winter. 3) No engine to service (oil changes/spark plugs/filters etc), regenerative braking will save on discs/pads and it'll mean the end of the dreaded noisy transmission on the fossil vehicle. My Colours model is due for replacement in 4 years and I'll be buying electric next time around.

If you enjoy driving then like any other car you get used to what it can do, what it cannot and adapt your driving accordingly. They do handle very well considering that they are not in the slightest bit sporty and I came from having a VW Scirocco R to this as I was in serious danger of losing my licence with that car. Handling is also dependent on the tyres - in my last Rapid notchback I had factory fitted Conti Ecocontacts then changed them to Goodyear Efficientgrip, both on 15" alloys and they were really good, especially the Goodyears. My current Rapid has 17" Bridgestones that are terrible in the wet - so bad that I can get the back end out on roundabouts

if independence ever happens , i'm moving down to england should be able to get a good job with ma 1st class honours degree from oxford uni 😎

I wonder if your ASV flap is jammed causing the juddering and the fault code.

I am concerned that not only are Red cars none existant in this thread, but I can't see any Scouts Either ! Helpfull I can fix both issues with a few Pics of Mine. Karoq Scouts are a dying bread now that Skoda have stopped producing them.... 😕

**Update** All sensors and abs control module were fine, it was the rear wheel bearing magnetic ring that was broken. I fitted a new wheel bearing and all dash light are out👍👍

A good review and no spurious bla-bla-bla Icing on the cake, it did not start with "HI GUYS"

My 2008 L&K has just popped up with this 01130 fault. Local mechanic cleared it, but came back about 20 miles later. Any thoughts, and if it's a new module does anyone know if it's an easy local mechanic fix or is it a dealer job, and thereofre how much are they likely to spoon me for?? 🤔 Would the G201 failure show up independently, and therefore would it be obvious and hard not to see at the same time as the 01130? Was literally the day I was taking it in for it's MOT... should have gone the day before! 🙃

I know , I went to the dealer 3 times in order to get some improvement . So I know what you mean . Please keep me posted if your dealer finds a permanent solution . Thanks in advance .

Afternoon all New superb owner after picking up a sport line estate last week. Have to say after coming from a 10 year old problematic Vauxhall insignia this is a dream. I've got a rear view camera coming tomorrow with wiring harness. I'm planning to do the coding with obdeleven. I just wanted to see if anyone had any tips before I start. Thanks in advance. Tom

Too high, parts are under £400 at retail. It's a fairly simple job to do.

Lubrication of Roof Mechanism and Rails All workshop manuals for the Octavia, Golf and Leon refer to this as being a maintenance/service procedure however the only information i can find for the service interval comes from a Golf website where every 4 years or 40k miles is given. The three procedures seem to vary quite a bit, with the Octavia one appearing the most simple. I personally think that the sunroofs may be different for each model (as there are two different procedures for the Leon depending on body shape) however cant confirm this. Links to the procedures below : Octavia: See Page 115 in the pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0&preview=Maintenance.pdf) Leon: http://www.seatia.com/secon-1242.html (Procedure differs from hatch/couple and the ST) Golf: https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/26804-sunroof-maintenance/ The lubricant itself in all manuals is listed as VW solid lubricating paste (G 060 751 A2) - I managed to get a 160g mastic gun type tube for £40 from TPS, you can get it on Ebay for slightly more. That quantity looks like it will last beyond my lifetime. Im not sure what exactly the stuff is in terms of identifying a cheaper alternative - it a graphite grey type colour, thicker consistency than lithium spray grease, quite sticky. In terms of the procedure itself, i tired using a shop vac to hoover any debris out of the rail area - however the nozzle was too big to really be effective. Likewise i had a spray can of air that i tried to use to blow out the thick, however this didn't really do much - i can imagine though that a proper decently powered air compressor may assist here. All i ended up doing was using a clean microfibre cloth and making sure i gently worked well into the rails and nooks. As the existing lubricant was still quite sticky this managed to pick up a lot of the loose old lubricant and the dirt embedded within. In terms or applying fresh, a little went a LONG way. I tried applying it to the rails using a small artists brush bent at an angle however I am far too clumsy for this and access is quite tricky (a small step ladder may assist with this from the outside, from the inside you'll have to climb onto the seat base). In the end i used cotton buds, bent at an angle and smeared in the grease and ran them along the rails. This probably ended up going on a bit thick but i cleared up the excess with another clean microfibre cloth. I then ran the roof open and closed a few times. The Leon workshop guide details a specific attachment to the mastic tube which looks to apply it precisely where it needs to do - i googled this - VAS 6621 'Grease Stone' however couldn't find anywhere selling or a price. As per my original post, i cant quite work out which final section of runner the Octavia manual is referring to?!? After re-greasing, the panoramic roof's opening and closing doesn't feel or sound any different, no smoother and no less smooth - with that said the old lubricant i removed did seem to have picked up quite a bit of grit and dirt - always an issue with greases and given the potential damage this could cause with metal on metal contact i feel it was worth doing. The service interval seems a bit long to me, maybe something you just check on each spring time?

Where to being with this, I recently bought my Mk3 VRS used (but new to me) from a good friend. The car has a pano-roof, which i wasn't massively fussed about and on the basis of my experiences so far I will never buy a car with again. Long story short within a few days of buying the car i found the roof was leaking. The issued appears to have been fixed now by my local VW independent specialist who had to remove the roof, fit a new seal, re-bond the roof to the plastic frame and then refit. As a result of my issues I've done a LOT of research into these roofs the last few weeks so prepare for a long winded response. The roofs themselves appear to be manufactured by Webasto however the VAG appear to have a particularly poor track record in terms of leaks and drainage issues when compared to other marques. Clearing Drainage Tubes The most common issues are the sunroof drains themselves becoming clogged and flooding. The way to test this is to carefully run some water into the sunroof tray (i used a squeezy mineral water bottle) and see if it drains effectively - the drain points are at the front and rear wheel arches. Even if still draining okay i would suggest this should be a yearly job. My front drains were nowhere near as efficient as the rear drains. With the roof open, the drainage points can be found in the four corners of the plastic sunroof tray, however the two rears ones are not readily visible and are hidden by the mechanisms. The two front ones are easily identifiable and are circular holes a few millimetres in diameter. These drain points are bonded to drain tubes - I've seen other people have these bonds fail and leak or become disconnected and they have had to drop the headliner and re-bond the pipes to the roof. The front drainage tubes run down the A-Pillar and exit at the bulkhead in the engine bay. The drain tubes themselves are just push fit into a rubber boot at the bulkhead and again in mu opinion there is the potential for this to work loose and leak. The procedure i used to clear the front drains was firstly to open the bonnet and remove the rubber stripping from the plenum chamber cover - it will just pull off. From there you will see there are several metal clips which secure the plenum cover, again these will pull out and you should be able to lift both corners of the plastic plenum chamber cover. The workshop manual suggests the windscreen wipers need removing, but even with my shovel hands i was able to reach in under the plenum chamber cover and feel towards the base of the A-Pillar where you will feel a rubber nipple. You need to manipulate this and you should feel an amount of gunk work clear from the nipples, this in itself should improve the efficiency of the drainage tubes markedly. To clear the tubes themselves some recommend blowing compressed air from the drain point in the roof tray, however VW seem to advise against this and the workshop manuals refer to using a bowden cable or similar as a drain snake. Personally i wouldn't use anything metal or too rigid as the drain pipes themselves aren't especially heavy duty and i could see the potential to cause damage. I purchased some plastic garden strimmer line for a couple of quid from the DIY shop - 2mm diameter, in reality i could probably have done with using the same stuff but a bit thicker as this was a bit too malleable and not strong enough. As such i doubled it up and taped it at several points to double its thickness and make it a bit stronger. It was then a case of gently feeding it down the two drainage pipes - if you hit any snags its probably a bit of blockage, working the cable back an forth it should push through and i was eventually able to get my cable to appear out of the bulkhead nipple and then basically 'flossed' the drainage tube. I repeated this several times and quite a bit of gunk was loosened. I then repeated this on the other side front drain. Finally i used a large syringe containing hot (but not too hot) water and washing up liquid and injected this directly into the drain point just to try and degrease and clean any final bits out. As discussed the rear drainage tubes cant be easily accessed from the top by my eyes. The workshop manual suggests these exit by the rear wheel arch and that access to clear the drain point nipple can only be gained by removing the rear bumper - which looks a right ball ache. I have seen some suggests that taking off the wheel and arch liner should also get you access. You could also clear the tube from within the car - removing it from the rubber boot where it enters the drainage nipple and exits the car, but this would mean removing a lot of the boot trim. This was all a bit involved for me as my rear drains seemed okay, however i will keep an eye on this. My research suggests that the way to clean these drains is again using your improvised drain snake - however this time from the bottom up, feeding it from the wheel arch nipple up towards the roof where it should emerge. I will stick another post on shortly re: the lubrication of the mechanism and seals

@BRUN Some consideration to the wheels is needed if you are going to be fitting suitable All Terrain tyres or whatever to get you into and out of campsites and up and down steep muddy fields. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/470122-off-road-tyres