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Mine. I have it 5 months now, the first 3 we were in lockdown and it didn't move much!

I had to destroy the old boot catch/switch to get the microswitch out. It was just stuck down but works OK. The one from eBay is fitted and everything is now dandy.

Not much in the way of change of late, just a deep wheels off clean.

So just testing out possibilities more than being a finished product, I need to brush up on my photoshop skills and figure out how to do graphics

Well having upgraded my D90 for a D7500 towards the end of last year i never actually got around to going out and giving it a whirl before lockdown. I finally managed to get out on Saturday to watch a steam special so gave the new camera a go. Sod's law literally just a minute or so before she arrived it started to lash it down, as you can see from the pics. Anyway..... Royal Scot hauling The Yorkshire Rose tour to York in the rain at Grindleford, Derbyshire.

Bit of a wash and wax.

I noticed a couple of weeks ago that my filler cap was not sitting flush. The car was in the dealers yesterday for a sensor replacement and i asked them to look at it and the garage said the only fix was to replace the flap and the hinge but as the car is out of warranty this would need to be covered my myself. The dealer said they had seen a few of these. Today i thought i would have a look and see if i could do anything, after a bit of fiddling i notice the catch was not locating correctly and it looks like the filler cap had a little play in it which makes it drop slightly. The fix is simple by raising the flap slightly as you close it the socket engages correctly and the filler is flush once again. Don't know how much the replacement parts would have cost but i am sure it would not have been cheap so i am happy with this fix and i will have to remember to raise it slightly each time i close it. Just in case anyone else has this problem try this fix it worked for me.

Collected Yeti No3 today. Others were petrol 2wd SE's and this is a diesel 4x4 L&K so a bit different. All good so far apart from I missed a small ding which will need to be done and the main Skoda dealer missed a dangerously damaged tyre!

Its the A/C evaporator drain.

I think you have to be of a certain age to get the bottom one! 😂

More likely condensed water drained from the A/C evaporator housing, I think.

Everyone has their reasons... Mine is that I am likely installing a hybrid turbo and having a custom tune. It was a 'how' rather than 'why' question.

20mm front and rear. I probably would have went a bit narrower but i wanted bolt on spacers. No issues so far, drives perfectly

I've just gone from 19'' to 18'' and the car behaves much, much, much better now. But my new rims are Oz Racing Omnia, which are some 3.5 kg's lighter than the geniune vRs 19'''s. Also, ContiSportContact 5's helped, too. Nevertheless, my general thought about this subject is: When a car is sold with more than one wheeling option, I presume that the chassis and suspension tunings are optimized for one of them. In the case of vRs, I reckon that this is 18''. In this regard, you would not be downsizing the wheels of, say, a Peugeot 308 GTI or a FK8 Civic Type - R, because they are sold with only one wheeling option and should have been optimized for that option.

Here are the new wheels. As a few have said, I think 8.5j et 45 is as much as you can go on a facelift, on the rears. 235 35 19 tyres, it's fairly close, even with -1 deg camber but hasn't rubbed as yet so all good.

Looks lowered with a Superskoda front grill front/rear splitters plus side skirts. Very nice tasteful mods.

Mine has an issue while using Wide open throttle positions, Where i get a prominent squeal from the N/S/F of the vehicle. This seems to have a knock on affect on whether i make my own tea or not. Actually, NOPE, Nothing i can think of changing.

A good test drive is the secret to a car sale, IMO.

It reminds me a Top Gear road trip in Alabama: 😂

Seriously considering this. The mirrors on my Kodiaq are really annoying me. I can spend hours cleaning, polishing, waxing, then spend the next couple of days cleaning water stains off the doors from the pesky mirrors dripping. I may need a new car cleaning toy.

Paint Protection Film

Agreed!

Relevant parts, 15 and 30 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2016-779/8/820-820022/ Drain pipe looks like it will go through the floor near where your pic shows.

I use a 256GB SD card to hold all my music (currently just over 192GB used) organised as \Artist\Album which works well for us as we have all our music with us and can play whatever we fancy for the mood/situation.

I was told 12 weeks for a 1.5TSI DSG. That was ordered last week. I did ask a couple of times if that was still valid. Assured that it was. We shall see! update; just checked the order paperwork and it has 'Committed handover date 28/11/21' which is a bit more than 12 weeks but at least it's this year!

I haven't shown mine the LEDs yet... I may never get my choice of colour!! Just potty-training my 2 year old now... trying to work out how long I'll be allowed to keep her out of the new car! 😂

To wrap things up, we basically want to go lighter for two reasons: To reduce the rotational inertia of the wheel + tyre combo and to reduce the unsprung mass. The former is not a really big deal, in my opinion. For fuel consumption, in constant - speed cruise, rotational inertia does not have any effect because the car is not accelerating. In variable speed driving, yes, the car would accelerate easier but also decelerate easier when you coast the car, two effects to cancel each other, in terms of fuel consumption. The main effect of reducing the rotational inertia is related to performance. In this respect, I don't really think that, it will matter for a car that is that powerful. If we were talking about a supermini with a 1.0 liter naturally aspirated engine, even a small reduction in rotational inertia would definitely be felt, but, this is hardly the case for a 2.0 TSI vRs. But the latter, unsprung mass...I think this is a completely different story and I guess my positive experience about downsizing the wheels is mainly related to this.

Just to pick up a minor point here - I have read they are lighter although I'm unsure if that was a comparison of like for like tyres. The difference was small I believe. However, weight is not everything. Distribution of mass is also significant when it comes to rotating mass. You could have something that's lighter but if the mass is towards the outside of the wheel it'll still require more energy to spin and have more angular momentum when spinning. Generally, lighter is better but when you're talking small differences it's hard to tell. A smaller wheel with a larger tyre will have more mass towards the centre of the wheel and arguably be better. I'm not which is best here, I'd just be wary of assuming one way or the other.

Strange, i'm 6'4'' and just over 16 stone and have no issues getting in and out. If I put the seat back fully it feels like my knees are too straight and I can't press the pedals, it feels uncomfortable so I have to move the seat forward a bit. Steering wheel is pulled out as much as possible though 😀.

Anything PH neutral is good. Take a look at P&S Brake Buster as it's not a full on iron remover (i.e. very strong) but it works great and has a corrosion inhibitor. It's also very good value if you get the gallon container - I dilute 1:3 and works better than any other stuff in my experience, and it doesn't smell bad unlike some other wheel cleaners. https://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/product/ps-brake-buster-total-wheel-cleaner-us-gallon/

Nope no DCC. Roads were bad too as I wanted to check. We all have different comfort levels but to me if felt better controlled and comfortable compared to my Leon. Much better than my prefacelift which I thought could get a bit rough. I was sold as I’d been a bit unsure until I drove it. What a car it is😀

The main thing, as people have already mentioned, which I would definitely want is more sound deadening. I wouldn't say it's loud when you're at motorway speeds, but this is room for improvement. In an ideal world I'd like my dream octavia to have; 4wd with a rear bias, a manual gearbox, a diesel with around 300hp and a mild hybrid system.

My average speed is much higher than you so you must try harder to drive faster. My average is 70kph yours only 45kph I win this round.🚲

Just for @Roscio.

Rear seat bases on the estate that fold forward as per the Fabia mk3 estate.

I'm looking at ideas for possible solutions...

Yup, also has the foglight eyelid things. Lowered 35mm on Eibach springs with 20mm H&R spacers

I don't think used car prices are dropping. If anything I think they've firmed up. Less new cars = less supply on used market. More demand for 2nd hand cars as people worry about being tied into lengthy leases. Higher demand and lower supply = price rises.

The way I imagined the suggested scenario of overtaking a cyclist or hiker on a moorland road, the road would be narrow and the overtaken "vehicle" would be moving very slowly, and a bit of caution might be more appropriate than outright speed. On catching up with the hiker or cyclist you might slow down a bit while checking that the road conditions ahead were safe for overtaking, so you would probably (I imagined) be doing less than 37 mph by the time you were overtaking and the lane assist would not be active. In over 4 years of driving the Octavia Scout with lane assist I have not found this feature to be that intrusive, and steering decisively will always override it, but of course it might be a bit different in newer models like the Kamiq or Karoq. The main reservation I have about lane assist is that you can't rely on it to be active when you might need it, as it depends on the presence and quality of the white lines on the road.

I decided to fit the 034Motorsport short shifter I've had in my cupboard for several years.

For me the only change I'd like is a torque convertor instead of the electro-mechanical DSG clutches. I can make a smooth take off with the DSG setup, but it requires thought. If it is a quick re-start (say I've missed the amber light and have to move off pronto on green) then it's always a jerk as the drive engages. I also find it tricky to reverse parallel park and straighten up without jerky forward and back moves. I know that is to do with the auto-brake system being on, but it's difficult to remember that is the cause while parking, and switch it off. A torque converter is completely smooth in all the above scenarios and just gives a better driving experience. I also felt less guilt sitting at lights with the car in drive than I do with the DSG. Despite what others have posted on here previously, I just can't shake the notion that the DSG clutch is "dragging" whist stopped in drive and will suffer premature wear as a result.

The plan is to get the car properly sorted and eventually swap some nice seats onto the old vrs subframes. Currently I'm just happy they won't be covered in horse muck.

So picked up a new set of seats today. Pulled the carpet out the car and jet washed it. I'll start on the big list the car needs once it's clean. Got a bargain on the seats. £25 with a new boot carpet and another gear lever as this one's been cut down in an attempt at a quick shift I think.

I took a customer for a test drive in a 206 CC (convertible) with a trade plate in the back window. When I cleverly dropped the roof as we drove slowly through some road works, the plate fell through a gap and disappeared onto the road without trace. Salesmanager called me a 'clot', or something similar.

Modern diesels don’t like sitting about. Without a test drive it’s hard to narrow the area down. Could be an injector issue. Could be a shaft or joint issue. Could be a haldex issue. Does the vibration change if you pull the dsg back into sport or change down a gear when the vibration starts. is it the road surface seeing as the other vehicle you had did the same thing. I would have added flat spotted tyres, but you’ve changed them already. could also be a shock absorber fault, or if fitted, could be in sport setting. Try comfort to see if it changes. Best to let the main dealer look at it and see what they come up with before you panic too much.

I’ve had my 272 Sportline for 10 months, having purchased a car with a very similar history to @shyVRS245 (albeit mine is Meteor Grey). Mine has just had its first service (I don’t cover enough miles to warrant variable servicing and don’t like the idea of old oil sloshing around the engine). Apart from a rattle which was fixed, it’s been faultless. I get around 34mpg overall which includes all types of driving. We recently got 38mpg on an extended run for a family holiday but that’s not the norm for me! Maybe I enjoy the power too frequently! I terms of the Haldex, I assume a failure at 30k miles is an anomaly; as said, it’s the same set up used in the Golf R and there aren’t hundreds of posts of failures at low mileage on the internet. My old boss had one which was running sweetly at well over 50k miles. I suspect that some may fail prematurely but that the vast majority will last well if serviced regularly. This is my second DSG car (my last car, an Octavia VRS had it too) and I love it! It’s so smooth and easy to live with (but can be a little less refined when manoeuvring) and I’d be loathe to go back to manual shifting now. Yes, I see the argument for less involvement when pushing on compared to a manual, but 80% of my driving is commuting and it’s perfect for this. Besides, I can always use the paddles if I feel the need. Overall, the Superb is a great proposition: it’s a quality product with a great drivetrain for a really good price.

Apart from a Yeti (I've had 4!) and 2 Roomsters the Mk I vRS was the only car I bought again. I did try both a Mk II and Mk III vRS, but thought they'd lost something compared to the Mk I. I remember asking the dealer what would happened to the climate control, electric rear windows, leather and spare Alloy.

20200725_155738 by geof worrall, on Flickr been a good few days...recently

Costco 'fitters / center managers' are the very people that say they can not fit new tyres to just the front of cars they have to go to the rear. 'Insurance you know / they say'. They do not know their different Haldex's from their elbows.

I think if your car had an EGR valve, fuse 7 would be relevant to that. Gotta walk the dog, do some work etc. but I'll come back to this later. Are you sure the front oxygen sensor only has 4 wires, I'd expect 5? Are you in Germany or Oxford at the moment?